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 Old 03-08-2012, 11:38 AM   #1
 
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Default Test Pipe and noises

Hey guys,
I'm thinking that my next mod will be the Test Pipe, but my questions regarding are: Whats the difficulty of installation on a 2012 and does it really make a big difference with sound and performance as it is?

Second question: Is there a TSB for defective transmission mounts? These "doink" and "thunk" noises from shifting, along with the "squeaking" and "creaking" while giving the car gas are starting to get annoying. I asked the dealership to check out the "Sub frame bushing" and stated that there is a TSB regarding, but of course they could not verify. So next time I go in, I'm going to dupicate the issue with the tech in the car and ask them to check out the transmission mounts.

Anyone else experiencing it?

Thanks
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 Old 03-08-2012, 11:45 AM   #2
 
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you're next mod should be AP and fuel pump internal instead of test pipe
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 Old 03-08-2012, 11:45 AM   #3
 
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To answer your first question, the installation difficulty is low, especially on a 2012 since your bolts probably won't be seized yet. If you're going to take it to the dealer for them to check the mounts I would wait until that's over with to install it.
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 Old 03-08-2012, 11:45 AM   #4
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Installation is easy: jack up car, remove mid chasi brace, 4 bolts for the stock cat, replace with new rp in reverse order.

You should also look into the donation mod.... Best bang for your buck hands down.
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 Old 03-08-2012, 11:50 AM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by Sid3wayS View Post
Installation is easy: jack up car, remove mid chasi brace, 4 bolts for the stock cat, replace with new rp in reverse order.

You should also look into the donation mod.... Best bang for your buck hands down.
yep, definitely an easy install

desertmike680 i didnt notice much more sound out of the test pipe..maybe just a bit deeper with a little gurgle..my next mod will be yanking the resonator out

the "doink" and "thunk" you mention is similar on mine i'm hoping to get a RMM soon and see if that helps out
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 Old 03-08-2012, 11:57 AM   #6
 
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Its about as easy to install as clicking the SEARCH button at the top
You may want to look into the VIP mod, thats where the real hp numbers come out!
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 Old 03-08-2012, 12:09 PM   #7
 
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my test pipe took me forever and a half to do, but I also had the difficulty of having missing parts, incorrect information, and a cracked pipe. In all reality you should be able to do it in an hour if all goes well. I broke all my exhaust bolts loose with relative ease, without needing pb blaster. my main problem was with a gasket...and taking 2+ hours to find a couple bolts that I needed half way through the install.
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 Old 03-08-2012, 12:31 PM   #8
 
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it should be an easy install, but when Captain KR did my install, it turned out to be a bitch. but you car is two years younger, so i'm sure it'll be easier to get those bolts off.

also, don't do it until you get an AP and internals. sounds like some motor mounts would do you some good too.
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 Old 03-08-2012, 12:55 PM   #9
 
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Start with atleast the rear motor mount, JBR's 88 duro makes a huge difference. Then do AP and internals just to be safe, this is the last car to try to re-invent the wheel.
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 Old 03-08-2012, 03:41 PM   #10
 
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Ok so I should wait in the Test pipe until I consider other mods first? These noises are so annoying. Its definitely the rear MM or transmission mount. As the car is starting, you can hear this creak/squeak noice and the motor is turning on, as well as hearing it when the clutch is engaged while moving. I thought the noise was coming from inside the cabin, but I can hear it even more when the windows are down.

I just might get the TP anyway. I really dont want to mess with the AP or internals honestly.
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 Old 03-08-2012, 03:48 PM   #11
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So you would rather mess with the likelyhood of a blown motor... Honestly. Its been shown with as little as an intake the fuel pump on a genpu shyts the bed. It's your car at the end of the day do what you feel is right, but I suggest reading up on cause and effect of different mods. Good luck n happy modding.
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 Old 03-08-2012, 03:53 PM   #12
 
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i noticed a deeper growl after the TP install. not too drastic, but it's there, maybe cause it is catless.

but you should listen to these guys and go with AP and internals first. they know what they're talking about. prevent a zoom zoom boom.
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 Old 03-08-2012, 03:57 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by uncorked11 View Post
this is the last car to try to re-invent the wheel.
^This.

If you are seriously against getting internals, then just get an AP and run a Stage1 safe mode tune. But it's not wise to start bolting things on to a pu without more fuel, sorry.
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 Old 03-08-2012, 03:58 PM   #14
 
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Fine, fuck internals and an AP and get a TP. blow up your engine. Jesus fucking christ...
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 Old 03-08-2012, 04:38 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by Onelovesoccer View Post
Fine, fuck internals and an AP and get a TP. blow up your engine. Jesus fucking christ...
I'm so glad to have a gen1...stage 1 tune, test pipe, no internals, and still holding strong. Although they're next on the list because they're a whole lot cheaper than a new block, rods, pistons, and labor.
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 Old 03-08-2012, 04:43 PM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by anavrinIV View Post
I'm so glad to have a gen1...stage 1 tune, test pipe, no internals, and still holding strong. Although they're next on the list because they're a whole lot cheaper than a new block, rods, pistons, and labor.
That's where I was a week ago. My boost started spiking when I added the TP to the stage1 tune, but pressure was fine. The gen1 ECU just handles fuel completely differently than the genpus.
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 Old 03-08-2012, 04:43 PM   #17

 
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Originally Posted by Onelovesoccer View Post
Fine, fuck internals and an AP and get a TP. blow up your engine. Jesus fucking christ...
LOL DONT YOU HATE IT WHEN BROWNIES/NEWBS DONT LISTEN TO YOU! THIS IS EXACTLY WHY I TROLL SO HARD!
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 Old 03-08-2012, 04:51 PM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by anavrinIV View Post
I'm so glad to have a gen1...stage 1 tune, test pipe, no internals, and still holding strong. Although they're next on the list because they're a whole lot cheaper than a new block, rods, pistons, and labor.
Yeah, absolutely man.

And OP, you can get all the motor mounts and not do a TP and you'll be fine. If you want the TP for sound but don't want internals or an AP, then delete the resonator instead. $50, cheapest thing you can do for sound, and it works really well.

Originally Posted by Captain KR View Post
LOL DONT YOU HATE IT WHEN BROWNIES/NEWBS DONT LISTEN TO YOU! THIS IS EXACTLY WHY I TROLL SO HARD!
Yeah man, I can see why people rage about it. This shit is literally beat to death.
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 Old 03-08-2012, 04:58 PM   #19

 
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Originally Posted by Onelovesoccer View Post
Yeah, absolutely man.

And OP, you can get all the motor mounts and not do a TP and you'll be fine. If you want the TP for sound but don't want internals or an AP, then delete the resonator instead. $50, cheapest thing you can do for sound, and it works really well.



Yeah man, I can see why people rage about it. This shit is literally beat to death.
THIS IS WHAT OP SOUNDS LIKE "WAHHHHHH FP INTERNALS DONT GIVE ME HP WAHHHHHHHH" "WAHHHH I WILL NEVER MAKE HP CAUSE I DONT KNOW HOW TO LISTEN WAHHHH". PREVENTATIVE MAINTENENCE IS THE KEY TO BEING RELIABLE, WOULD YOU LET A DEALERSHIP CHANGE YOUR VVT WITHOUT DOING THE CHAIN AND THE TENSIONER ? HELL NO YOU WOULD WANT THEM TO DO THE ENTIRE TIMING SIDE! WHY? BECAUSE IT MAKES SENSE, OP IS A FUCKING FAG.
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 Old 03-08-2012, 05:23 PM   #20
 
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Where is the resonator? And does Street Unit have the resonator delete?
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 Old 03-08-2012, 05:50 PM   #21
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Go to a muffler shop tell them to cut out the resonator....



















And everything else after it... hella loud dawg.
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 Old 03-08-2012, 06:04 PM   #22
 
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Originally Posted by desertmike680 View Post

I just might get the TP anyway. I really dont want to mess with the AP or internals honestly.
Are you fucking kidding me? You're an idiot and deserve the fail that awaits you...

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 Old 03-08-2012, 06:06 PM   #23
 
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lol at "does su have a res. Delete.."

Google.com... use it..
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 Old 03-08-2012, 06:20 PM   #24

 
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Why aren't Yall groaning his posts lol he has said the dumbest shit possible and is obviously looking to be spoon fed.
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 Old 03-08-2012, 06:35 PM   #25
 
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Wow!! Another 5 mins of my life wasted.. Good for a laugh thou.. Can some one make a Smiley that says "Zoom Zoom Boom" please!!

Actually even better:
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 Old 03-08-2012, 07:47 PM   #26
 
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Originally Posted by Captain KR View Post
Why aren't Yall groaning his posts lol he has said the dumbest shit possible and is obviously looking to be spoon fed.
calls for groans beget groans
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 Old 03-08-2012, 07:55 PM   #27
 
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Originally Posted by desertmike680 View Post
Where is the resonator? And does Street Unit have the resonator delete?
This shit was so epic I had to thank it and use it in my signature. I've never laughed so hard at a post in my life
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 Old 03-08-2012, 08:00 PM   #28
 
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In before zoomzoom BOOM!
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 Old 03-08-2012, 08:17 PM   #29
 
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I had a Corksport race pipe with SRI and TIP for over a year w/o internals or AP.

My car didn't boom, but maybe I was lucky (I also don't drive like an asshole generally).

It sounds a little better, definitely what the other guy said about slight gurgle, maybe a deeper exhaust note. Get a CBE if you just care about sound.

My car will probably die tomorrow for all the hubris I have displayed.
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 Old 09-19-2012, 12:19 AM   #30
 
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Default Light mods....so no internals.

I'm not gonna say ap and fp are not worth it..after reading many posts i'll absolutely agree it's vital for heavy modding. But for light mods - Let's say ... Intake, tip, and test pipe has anyone seen the fuel pump die with these mods?
One post said the fuel pump has trouble even with the intake....really??? Is this 1 case...or very likely?
I just bought a 2012 MSP3. Before that I owned a 2007 Mazdaspeed 6 with air intake and never had any issues.

I'm gonna stick with light mods ---- intake+tip, and rmm
checked the corksport dyno of the test pipe they claim up to 12hp more. I also like the deeper sound it gives. (But still not sure on the test pipe...?)
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 Old 09-19-2012, 12:48 AM   #31
 
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The last post in this thread was more than 6 months ago...

And just in case you have trouble reading the thread and and the warnings in it and ALL OVER this website: Go ahead and install the testpipe. If you can handle going WOT daily knowing that you might blow your motor at any time then by all means, do it.

I have an intake on the stock tune and I will not be doing anything else until I get my AP and internals(at the same time.)

Edit: Getting groaned on your first post is a pretty bad start. Stop posting and start reading.
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 Old 09-19-2012, 05:54 AM   #32
 
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Originally Posted by Speed3Mtl View Post
I'm not gonna say ap and fp are not worth it..after reading many posts i'll absolutely agree it's vital for heavy modding. But for light mods - Let's say ... Intake, tip, and test pipe has anyone seen the fuel pump die with these mods?
One post said the fuel pump has trouble even with the intake....really??? Is this 1 case...or very likely?
I just bought a 2012 MSP3. Before that I owned a 2007 Mazdaspeed 6 with air intake and never had any issues.

I'm gonna stick with light mods ---- intake+tip, and rmm
checked the corksport dyno of the test pipe they claim up to 12hp more. I also like the deeper sound it gives. (But still not sure on the test pipe...?)
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 Old 09-19-2012, 06:46 AM   #33
 
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In before (OP desertmike680) is actually Speed3Mtl trying to recover his own thread
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 Old 09-19-2012, 08:40 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by desertmike680 View Post
Where is the resonator? And does Street Unit have the resonator delete?
go back to mazda24/7 they seem to be more on your level what you goals for the car are.
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 Old 09-19-2012, 09:00 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by motherfnmonsta View Post
go back to mazda24/7 they seem to be more on your level what you goals for the car are.
When you troll someone make sure their post is not 6 months old.
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ETS:3.25" TMIC//M/D:OCC//Forge:v.2 BPV//AutoTech:FP Internals//PTP:Seals&studs
Bosch:3-Bar//Grimmspeed:3-port EBCS//Stratified:G.A.//KW:Coilovers//RotaGrids:18x9.5
Meth/E85/Nitrous TUNING BY LEX
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 Old 09-19-2012, 09:23 AM   #36
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Ehh it was brought back up my bad and fail on my part

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 Old 09-19-2012, 12:48 PM   #37
 
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I'm just glad Captain KR turned off his CAPS LOCK, shit was hurting my eyes.

Anyway if OP is dumb enough to do a test pipe now be sure to remove the "mid chassis brace" first otherwise you'll be pissing and moaning that you don't have another 1/2 inch of space to work with and yes that's what she said. Oh and for OP, be sure to put said "mid chassis brace" back on when completing installation.

Anyway a test pipe will make your car about 10% louder, doesn't change the sound quality at all, and adds about 5-7 hp.

Not sure about OPs transmission/mount woes. I'm still rocking all the stock mounts and having no issues, bucking the trend yknow?
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2012 Black Mica MazdaSpeed3
Mods (in order of significance): Cobb AccessPort, Autotech CDFP upgrade (thanks Captain KR for your assisstance), Cobb SF SRI Intake, Ultimate Racing cat and resonator-less test pipe, Cobb Turbo Inlet Hose, Cobb Knob, Cobb 300g shifter weight

Tune: My own (based on the v210 and v231 Cobb OTS maps but ramped way up)

Street creds:
- Fastest known K04/93 MS3/driver with only an AP, CDFP upgrade, intake, and tune | 13.37@106.83mph on stock Dunlops (2.04 sec 60' time, full curb weight, 75*F ambient temp)
- Has gone an indicated 146mph on three occasions now.

Yes I will help you tune your K04/pump gas car; I have much less experience than the major players but I also charge you $0 and can turn you around quickly. 4 satisfied customers and counting...
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