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Top o2 sensor will not come off DP install I'm am about to throw something We have used half a can of PB blaster and used two different o2 sockets. The o2 will NOT budge. The socket keeps stretching and stripping the corners off the bolt. We have tried everything and my coworker is a master Toyota mechanic and he's never had this much trouble. Any ideas or something to help a brotha out??????? |
Vice grips + torch + welders glove(for safety).....heat up the bung...not the sensor....bung will expand allowing you to turn the sensor with the vice grips already applied |
You might try heating it with a torch or worst case cut the wires and put a wrench on it. I'd only do this if you can solder them back afterwards. If you're having that much trouble though, the threads are probably going to strip. Make sure you work it back and forth when taking it out. Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2 |
Like they said heat it up, I used a full socket and a long breaker bar. First applied torque to tighten it a little, then loosened it sprayed more on blaster and repeated. Came out easy. GL --- I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?2yjydk |
An old machinists trick that I was taught was to heat it up and melt parifin on the threads, it will penetrate deep in the threads and then apply torque. |
DO NOT CUT THE WIRES TO SODER THEM LATER!!!!!!!! These are not your typical copper wires. Heat that bung up and apply hulk amount of torque. |
At this point it sounds like your sensor will be fubar when it comes out. I'd just leave it in a buy a new sensor for your DP.. |
I had the same problem with my downpipe install. I ended up having to cut the wires so I could get a normal socket on it, heat the hell out of the bung and use a half inch impact. The sensor was completely cross threaded into the downpipe. The sensors are very expensive from the dealer, but if you look online you'll find them for a reasonable price! |
yea i guess i can buy an aftermarket bosch o2 and depin the connector and wire it back up. i work for a wiring company so thats kind of my thing. i also thought about cutting the wires at a reasonable length and then putting a 4pin deutsch disconnect but someone said the wires are not normal wires..? are they double shielded wires with a shield in each wire? usually almost o2's i deal with are 4 wire, a heater signal, ground, power, and o2 signal. we gave up for the night but I'm gonna drive the shit out of it on the way to the shop and when i get there I'm gonna blast it again with PB and try when its hot... if that doesn't work, were gonna heat the bung up and try the vice grip way. this is inSANE:smashfreakB: Quote:
which o2 did you buy to replace yours? |
one thing i did to help mine that worked is actually tightened it a little bit, that seemed to loosen the threads enough to get it to the point of loosening. |
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this might sound stupid, and i have never tried it, but i am sure someone has, but tried putting a hose clamp tightened around the socket head... to keep it from slipping? |
Why does our downpipe like to weld our O2 sensors on? |
geeeze expensive... thinking about 02 sensors when I do downpipe later... = nightmares |
Cheapest place for all oem parts: Online Mazda Parts call the number and ask for jason. Will give you the best price period. And they have everything in stock. Reason I said not to cut them is because ive read here in other threads that although the power and ground are typical copper core wire, the o2 is something else, cant remember the name, but a hollow tube that you can't put back together. It's the center white one. But im by far no expert and if you dealt with these before then please inform us/me. |
Haha! Dude... We used TWO hose clamps to keep the barrel shut on the socket. Fml |
Impact gun. :) |
my o2 came out with some thread material from my stock dp. I just ran a die around it a slapped it in my new dp. Works fine and no leaks. |
I've done three downpipe installs and all O2 sensors came out without any problems. It seems like whenever someone does have a problem, though, it's because the damn thing was cross-threaded from the factory. When I did mine, I actually ponied up the money to buy an extra sensor, just in case shit did happen. Just an FYI, there's a thread that shows a slight difference between the gen1 and gen2 wideband sensor. http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...-sensor-84333/ AFAIK, there is no aftermarket solution for that sensor, only the secondary O2. OEM looks like the only way to go. For reference, the correct part # for gen2 is L3CE-18-8G1. It costs a little more than $300 if you buy it online. |
Same thing happened when I was doing my downpipe. We had to heat up the bung, and even then the sensor came out with no threads. |
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You cannot cut these wires, you will not be able to solder them back on, it'll be ruined. |
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A new engine due to shitty afr readings from a crimped together O2 sensor harness is going to be much more expensive than a new O2 sensor... |
True dat Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2 |
i've heard people doing it after a drive when everything is nice and hot ... |
update: first of all... fuck. second of all... we used a mini butane torch to heat up the bunghole area. huh huh... then we got some FreezeOff and blasted the shit out of it then it moved. went back and forth for a little bit, then we hit it with the torch again and it came out like butter. so I'm happy now! haha but god dammit. we even went to mazda right by our shop and talked to a tech and i asked him about the o2, and he said "have you beat the shit out of it yet?" which i knew was a bad sign.. so we talked it over and left with no dice. finally, the DP install is done. Thanks for all the info guys! much appreciated! |
So what was finally used to grip it to get it out? Tell me it was vice grips...vice grips ftw.....lol |
We used the o2 socket, im sure vice grips would have worked, but we didn't need them. Just had to get the bung red hot |
i'd be worried that you messed up the sensor. take it veeeery easy on the car for a while after install and keep a very close eye on AFRs |
I bought the rent a tool from Vatozone, and stripped the threads from then on out we tried and tried and ended up calling it quits and just cut the wires and removed the dp with the 02 still attached. Got the hook up with a new one from advanced. |
Been checking it a lot. On cold starts and after a 2 hour drive. Solid 14.7 at idle. She's running good. But loud as fuck... Now I have only the ultimate racing mufflers and no other silencers. I think I'm gonna weld a reso in my mid pipe. Quote:
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