Trying to get over 300HP

[iggy097]

So @phate said he could probably net me some more horses if I got on a dyno and tuned with him for a few hours ( 150 bucks an hour - sux )
Any other ways for me to get over 300 at this point staying cheap? Obviously BT, not in the budget.
Does a DP make much of a difference with an E85 tune with the stock turbo?
Would probably stick with a catted one if I did go that route, well, maybe not, would have to look into the inspection process for NY cars since I'm moving.
Ideas?
Keep in mind I'm cheap, just had to pay out of pocket for traveling models, and 2 more coming in this weekend.
I'll attach pics of said models, for your viewing enjoyment, and to say thanks in advance.

[Raider]

Intake, TIP, FMIC/TMIC can help too.

[iggy097]

Have an intake already, thought the FMIC didn't really help with the corn tune?

[minger]

I think my brother @mingenyx was making close to 280-285 at the wheels prior to downpipe, but he had FMIC prior to that.

[2k4_8]

Corn prevents knock, but a cooler more dense charge is still getting more air in the cylinder and that means more power.

[Snap Off]

Adding pics was a nice touch sir. Sorry I have no good info to offer.

[ms3rick]

Donate mod, with my mods on the E85 tune in the cold im around 300, day time 290s this is on Vdyno 1.8.9 DynoJet Smoothing at 6

[Oliverms3]

Like what @Raider said.... you'll need those too. But yah... DP will definitely help.

[fishin53]

Get fully bolted and you should be able to make it

[iggy097]

Eh, donate mod isn't happening this year for a while. Last year fine. It cost me too much in the for sale section.
Besides, with all the exclusive free porn I provide here on my NSFW thread, I should get a pass

[silvapain]

Intake, HPFP internals, DP, and AP and you can hit 300WHp no problem.

You're being held back by the stock downpipe.


Tapadatass

[BlackBandit]

Yeah, actually changing out the DP, combined with a tune, is good for 25-30 hp. You want that exhaust flow moving as quickly as possible, and the stock design sucks.

If you eliminate both Cats you will get a CEL.

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by BlackBandit Yeah, actually changing out the DP, combined with a tune, is good for 25-30 hp. You want that exhaust flow moving as quickly as possible, and the stock design sucks. If you eliminate both Cats you will get a CEL.

The AP can disable the codes. They will show up as 'not ready' if the state/municipality does an ECU test as part of emission inspections though.


Tapadatass

[CamSpeed360]

Originally Posted by BlackBandit Yeah, actually changing out the DP, combined with a tune, is good for 25-30 hp. You want that exhaust flow moving as quickly as possible, and the stock design sucks. If you eliminate both Cats you will get a CEL.

If you have an AP and download ATR you can opt to ignore those codes so you don't get a CEL

FapaCalk

[atvfreek]

Some may disagree, buuuuuuuuuuut, the best bang for your buck right now is rent the dyno for an hour. Even if you add a DP, @phate can only add so much timing on the street. You already have the corn, and he already has a good base tune. Guarantee one hour in the fyno and he gains you close to 30hp. No other mods needed. The stock DP actually flows pretty good. I only gained 7hp on a car that went from Stock DP to catless. We gained likes 25tq, but you are looking for hp at this point. The extra timing found on the dyno will get you there. And it will be cheaper than a DP+tune

[bstover17]

Im confused as to how you have been creating threads since 08-19-2011 and don't know what is required to hit 300hp. I would see @Raider signature for a list of stickied threads that should be able to help you.

[iggy097]

I know how to get to 300, was asking advice on which way to go now, the cheapest. Was really wondering how much the DP helped with the corn tune really. Trying to figure out if the cost was worth the price. If it's only 7hp'ish gains, then no, I would just go towards the dyno.

[BlackBandit]

Originally Posted by CamSpeed360 If you have an AP and download ATR you can opt to ignore those codes so you don't get a CEL FapaCalk

Lol Silva beat you to it! But yeah APs can filter out that code, and it isn't really an issue, if your state/town has no emissions testing.

[CamSpeed360]

Yes that's important too lol luckily for me I don't have to worry about emissions.

[mingenyx]

I made 295hp/325 tq prior to downpipe just test pipe on a mustang dyno. Front mt and e85 tho

[ms3rick]

Originally Posted by iggy097 I know how to get to 300, was asking advice on which way to go now, the cheapest. Was really wondering how much the DP helped with the corn tune really. Trying to figure out if the cost was worth the price. If it's only 7hp'ish gains, then no, I would just go towards the dyno.

Lex has gone over this with my car, I dont know what your G/S flow is(mines around 250s cold 238s hot).. For me a bigger TMIC/FMIC, and a lager Intake would net far more HP then DP... Downpipe would add more boost in higher RPM range, but would it be efficient? (this is on corn sri/tip/test pipe)

So my advice.. Open up your intake air > Dp. (Dyno time for both choices would be a great addition to extra power Phate could work some corn magic.)

[Voltwings]

i agree with @atvfreek, i have an UR catted DP, had two friends tuned by the same guy as me all on E85, one with catless, one with stock cat. We were all honestly so close in a race it realistically came down to whoever started first, when you're making the kind of torque E85 does a 10 whp difference is negligible between the cars. an intercooler of some sort, if not a front mount would be better than stock. Obviously your looking to keep this cheap so Top mount + E85 isnt a bad option, ran that for about a year before switching to front mount / BT.

[Zdraveca]

If you wanna go cheap why not just get the ebay downpipe?

Sent from my T-Mobile G2

[Voltwings]

Originally Posted by Zdraveca If you wanna go cheap why not just get the ebay downpipe? Sent from my T-Mobile G2

if he wants to stay catted a DP will run him a couple hundred, but you're right if he can go catless may as well.

[fortressofcomfort]

I would tend to agree that if you want to build HP (as opposed to torque) why not just do it with the timing above 5,000rpms? The resolution of our ECU's timing maps are very good and most of us just plug in numbers at 1.75 that work and interpolate. Pretty crude when you really think about it. The reality is that the car is running all sorts of calculated loads during a real WOT run, especially above 5k so why not get into the nitty gritty and tune each individual cell? Even small improvements in the timing can net BIG results, more than say running an extra psi of boost at high rpms.

[phate]

atvfreek nailed it. With E85, there are no power gains beyond intake/downpipe (dyno proven), and a downpipe is worth MAYBE 10hp after everything is tuned.

I've seen typical gains of 15-25hp with a 2 hour dyno session, with cars in a similar state to yours Dan.

I've also shown no airflow is lost with high BAT's...thread somewhere about that haha.

[iggy097]

Originally Posted by phate atvfreek nailed it. With E85, there are no power gains beyond intake/downpipe (dyno proven), and a downpipe is worth MAYBE 10hp after everything is tuned. I've seen typical gains of 15-25hp with a 2 hour dyno session, with cars in a similar state to yours Dan. I've also shown no airflow is lost with high BAT's...thread somewhere about that haha.

I was trying to work a deal with the tuning shop here with some web design or broadcast commercial work, for dyno time but they weren't having it.
Moving to NY this winter, my brother has some dyno friends there, so maybe we'll plan for it around then.

Thanks all for the help. And ya, I knew DP would help, but would it be enough to warrant the cost + labor? Meh.

[motherfnmonsta]

hate to say this but there is no such thing as cheap hp. But thank you for creating this thread I am learning some good info.

[Nathan 6]

Originally Posted by Voltwings if he wants to stay catted a DP will run him a couple hundred, but you're right if he can go catless may as well.

You can easily have a high flow cat welded in. putting total price at around 150-180.. i dont remember the exact price of the ebay dp though.

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by ms3rick Donate mod, with my mods on the E85 tune in the cold im around 300, day time 290s this is on Vdyno 1.8.9 DynoJet Smoothing at 6

Hmm, on my "Stockish" setup I am pulling just under 320 on VDyno 1.1.9, Smoothing 4 on 91. With Corn about 45 or so more. Of course that is with BAT's in the 105 to 150 range .

[8.5MS3]

i am over 300whp will answer all your questions when you come to NY and visit us at our Thursday meets


















































provided the models come too, with minimal clothing

[Roddiy]

Originally Posted by himurax13 Hmm, on my "Stockish" setup I am pulling just under 320 on VDyno 1.1.9, Smoothing 6 on 91. With Corn about 45 or so more. Of course that is with BAT's in the 105 to 150 range .

You're doing something wrong

No way a "Stockish" Genpu would put down 365 even with a DP/Meth/E85 all combined. But then you wouldn't be stockish...

Even then you might be looking at 330 if you don't go the NOS route.

[lilred]

Originally Posted by Roddiy You're doing something wrong No way a "Stockish" Genpu would put down 365 even with a DP/Meth/E85 all combined. But then you wouldn't be stockish... Even then you might be looking at 330 if you don't go the NOS route.

I've seen his engine bay nothing but and intake and a ricer cf cold air box....

tapafuck

[8.5MS3]

stock turbo isnt good for anything over ~330 regardless of fuel or mods (except nitrous)

[snailD]

on the ko4 max hp is right around 5k. so the more boost u can run in that region, givin the same timing on corn will net you some hp. some have achieved this with an intercooler with less pressure drop and or a downpipe. so those are the flow mods i would look at if u only have an intake. i would also agree getting on the dyno may be your cheapest bet to unlocking those horses

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by lilred I've seen his engine bay nothing but and intake and a ricer cf cold air box.... tapafuck

So true. I don't know why the damn car is so quiet either.

OP, without a good tune, forget about getting over 300HP. You might have an easier time getting to 300 if you went with a SRI and TIP that is 3" or more. 1 step colder plugs help with KR at higher boost and timing.

[ms3rick]

Originally Posted by himurax13 So true. I don't know why the damn car is so quiet either. OP, without a good tune, forget about getting over 300HP. You might have an easier time getting to 300 if you went with a SRI and TIP that is 3" or more. 1 step colder plugs help with KR at higher boost and timing.

He's stocking and holds full boost at redline! Look at stratifiedauto on Facebook, his dyno is posted.


Sent from my dizzLe using RaWr powers!

[8.5MS3]

k some conflicting/incorrect info here

Short list to 300whp

intake
IC upgrade
DP (i was able to hit 305whp with a testpipe, but thats pushing the shit out of it)
CDFP
AP w/MSF tuning guru
1 step colder plugs
RMM
corn if available

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by ms3rick He's stocking and holds full boost at redline! Look at stratifiedauto on Facebook, his dyno is posted.

Don't know what you are talking about Willis.

Originally Posted by 8.5MS3 k some conflicting/incorrect info here Short list to 300whp intake IC upgrade DP (i was able to hit 305whp with a testpipe, but thats pushing the shit out of it) CDFP AP w/MSF tuning guru 1 step colder plugs RMM corn if available

Intake & Tip, 3"+ would be preferable.
93 Octane would help push you over the top.
30% E85 would definately push you over the top.
Tuning is absolutely necessary. I was only able to hit the 290's on 91 octane with the old configuration of the car and self tuning.

I think the power curve/power band is more important.

[8.5MS3]

im at 325 on 93 with a cobb sri and tip, 3" isnt necessary

i also hold 19psi @ redline, im on my 3rd turbo but thats a whole different discussion