I have 2011 tacoma that used to be my dd, passed on to the wife and got my ms3

She had a mazda 6 before that, she is already complaining about gas mileage. . And wants a cx-5

sent from my Galaxy Note 2

Hell, not gonna lie... Ive even gone back to looking at Saturn Sky Redlines, lol. Apparently they're not family friendly enough. :smashfreakB:

Wait wait wait...

You say the GenPu looks aggressive? Lol.

This isn't aggressive :P

http://www.9gag.com.my/pics/t3/4307-1.jpg


However, I do wish I had Bluetooth. Damn you.

Ugh, the skyactive is sooo weak though. I hope Mazda starts pushing out the turbo diesel in the CX-5 and 6, I'd be all over that for the family car. If not I may have to go the VW route and get a couple year old Toureg TDI.

I ordered my BNR yesterday and should be here next week, wonder what the UR catback would be like with it. I think I want something with a resonator in the middle under the cabin though, I prefer the CS no muffler design but it's all so damn expensive!

Touregs can be expensive to maintain. Had an Evo buddy back in the day that bought his wife one. They took it into the dealer for a brake job and they got charged over $1500 for pads and rotors all around.

Lmao... Shhh yo! :shhh: That's how I make money.

*works for VW*

Balls... but I think that can be true for all Vdubs. They usually make them able to handle high speed cruising and stops for DAS AUTOBAHN!@ $1500 sounds about right for a big ass SUV's rotors and pads, plus install, plus the fact it was a dealership and not a mom and pop shop.

Well I'll put it this way. Go test drive that heavy tank and then slam on the brakes. They do their job exceptionally well. Tank they are - I've personally watched one flip onto its side, and then pulled the driver and passenger out of the car.

i had a gti vr6 and loved that car... but hated the fucking stealership... i ended up meeting a old dude that worked his whole life for them and opened his own shop and was really cheap in comparison with the delaership
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0008_large.jpg

they added like 20hp to the 2014 ones, because everyone said the were ball-less =)

the jetta on the back the wifes, 2007 jetta wolfsburg edition... really good car too, im into german cars... but maintenance is freaking expensive

My neighbor is a retired german car technician, everything from Porsche, VW, BMW, ect. Currently he has a Passat TDI wagon that moves pretty well as well as a z3 for his wife. He used to be huge into air cooled cars. I myself would love to get a ghia or 914 to turbo.

Shit with an eight speed transmission the 406tq down low should be able to get tapped regardless, but yeah, it went from 225 to 240 hp with the same 406tq. Sooooo expensive, I have to get promoted a couple times before I get one.

I had fitment issues with my Ebay dp as well. I didn't have to weld anything on mine though. To fix the length issue, I added a 1/2'' thick stainless two bolt flange where the dp connects the test pipe. This flange was from Ebay. Thick Remflex gaskests ensured that I had no exahust leaks. To fix the CEL, I simply ground the O2 bung down.

Got it done, Guy charged my 50 bucks, NO CEL after 75miles so i think im good now

Your getting a CEL because your rear o2 is not reading correctly. The rear o2 HAS to be in the exhaust stream. I promise you are running around 14.0-14.2 AFRs at idle with the extended downstream o2 bung. If you get a shorty bung welded in the DP, your car will run correctly, and there should be no CEL. Again, you are covering up a problem.

Do tell us oh wise one... why is that a bad thing? Seeing as how at idle the car targest 14.7:1 and usually hovers around 14-14.5:1. The numbers you stated are perfectly in spec.

@El_Diablo; That's my experience, and the research I have done backs up what I said. It's documented all over these forums that extended o2 bungs on gen 2 fuck these cars' couch. I had an extended bung and threw the codes listed below. Idling at 14 flat is NOT within spec. And to clarify for you, when I say idling at 14.0-14.2 (richer for some), I mean that is where it stays. All the time. Never ever close to 14.7. If your car is 'normally' idling at 14 than you have some issues. Grounding the sensor is a band-aid fix. The secondary sensors are actually used to adjust and keep fueling on the up and up.

P0137: Oxygen O2 Sensor Low Voltage (Bank1, Sensor2)
P0139: Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank1, Sensor2)
P2096: Post Catalytic Fuel Trim Bank 1 System Too Lean - Meaning the sensor isn't seeing the proper amount of combusted fuel, thus dumping fuel.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...update-106321/
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...d-genpu-64770/
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...96-code-96952/
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru.../p2096-118571/

I could go on....

First off, I have to apologize as that last post I came off as an ass. Long day.Our cars usually sit at 14.5:1 at idle bone stock but tend to move around some when people start modding, while a MAFcal generally takes care of this, it may still fluctuate from time to time. At 14-14.2:1 during idle you will not fuck up your car. My car with the extended bung is currently running right at 14.5:1. Now, is that to say I haven't thought of putting in a relocated bung to delete a CEL or two? Not at all and I may still do it but its not going to cause me to go ZZB.

He didn't ground the o2 sensor, he ended up grinding down the bung that the o2 sits in for a more cost effective way to get it into the exhaust stream. O2 Sensors are always electrically grounded. :pat:

Yesterday after i got my new bung and after about 100 miles p2096 still came back and my afr was at 14.1.. flashed a new map, put my bov to 100% recirc and now the code went away (i hope for good now) and my afr is steady at 14.7

Car feels much more responsive with this new map

sent from my Galaxy Note 2

We all have long days so its cool!

And yes, while it won't kill the car, for me it bugs me because it's just not perfect. I am Catless, and it stunk up my garage a ton, and windows down cruising was just a little stinkier, lol. I'd assume it might foul plugs if left for too long, as well.

And yes it's grounded, but I thought maybe he meant some method of grounding one of the signal wires or some witchcraft like that.

:friday:

In the 14 range theres no concern on the plugs as under power from the factory its far richer than that. The smell... you get used to it after having carbureted vehicles, lol.

What map were you running when you first started getting these codes? OTS?

I was running a stage 2 Stratified OTS map made for the JRB intake, with a MAF calibration by Lex because i was running lean as a mofo, but later on i found out that the map was made for the power path not the wide path and thats the one i have. Now im running the Cobb stage 2 93 octane

Installed on friday.. with no extra or modified hardware and its running like a champ, switched to cobbs OTS-2, 275 miles this weekend and no CEL. Couple nice backfires but no CEL. LOVE the sound, stock with DP. Just loud enough. Smells like a refinery. lol

Stock catback, with res delete and DP makes me almost jealous.

Genpo or Genwon?

right now Im almost sure that my Cel had something to do with the Map that i was using....

Jaun :neener: