![]() | ![]() |
![]() | ![]() | ![]() | ![]() | ![]() | ![]() |
|
| |||||||
|
Welcome to Mazdaspeed Forums . You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us. *When you join MSF as a registered user, there will be No Ads. *Registered Members get access to the Off Topic Area of the Forum *Registered Members have an opportunity to upgrade their accounts to VIP, which brings a host of goddies for supporting MSF such as Raffles, Additional Forum Access, More PM Storage, The ability to upload more Images and many other enhancements. *Registered members also get access to the live chat box! |
![]() |
| | | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
![]() | | #1 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 35
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 85 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 2
Thanked 12 Times in 8 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I have a weird push button start issue that started happening a few days ago. The car starts and runs perfectly. Shutting off is the issue, press the button and nothing happens. I now have to do the emergency stop procedure of pressing the button 3 times quickly or pressing and holding the button to shut the car off. This leaves the car in ACC mode and means I have to press the button two more times after that to put the car in the off position. I figured it might be the 2 year old battery in the key fob, but changing it didn't fix the issue. I reset the ECU with my accessport and I still have the issue. If I start the car and shut it off within a few minutes, it shuts off properly with 1 push. If I go for a drive it then refuses to shut off normally and needs the long hold or 3x push. Anyone ever seen this before? I searched and couldn't find this issue listed in any of the forums. Car is a 2010 Speed3 with 101,000 miles. Thanks for your help!! |
| | |
![]() | | #2 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Red Deer,AB Canada
Posts: 3,279
(View Stats)
iTrader: (6)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 4,855
Thanked 4,338 Times in 1,621 Posts
Groans: 189
Groaned at 64 Times in 21 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score Does it still do it with the key in?
__________________ 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 Black Mica w/ Tech Package - Traded In 2014 Ford F150 FX4 Ecoboost - Current |
| | |
![]() | | #3 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 35
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 85 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 2
Thanked 12 Times in 8 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Yes I tried that, same deal with the key in there, doesn't turn off normally. |
| | |
![]() | | #4 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Warwick, RI
Posts: 1,313
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 2,517
Thanked 654 Times in 329 Posts
Groans: 4
Groaned at 15 Times in 8 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score
![]() My first thought is that something has a crappy connection once the car is warmed up enough
__________________ 2010 blue with tech, cobb sri+tip+dp+cbe, ets tmic, grimmspd ebcs, autotek hpfp, jbr boosttoobs+rmm+roundknob+bushings, turbosmart bpv, swift springs, APv3 FreekTuned retrofitted headlights: morimoto 5k HIDs with XB35 ballasts, in mini D2S projectors. VLED triton 5k switchback DRL/turn signals ♡°☆(ಠೆಒಠಿ)☆°♡ | |
| | |
![]() | | #5 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 35
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 85 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 2
Thanked 12 Times in 8 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score
Yeah for sure this car has been well used, I'm constantly driving places for work. Enjoyed every single mile! Worst part is my extended warranty just expired at 100,000, I might go see the dealer and see if they can hook me up one last time before the pants come off. I'll check fuses/relays/battery connections tomorrow. | |
| | |
![]() | | #6 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 35
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 85 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 2
Thanked 12 Times in 8 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Checked all relays and fuses, still same issue. Anyone else have ideas? I will update the thread if I find the solution. Thanks! |
| | |
![]() | | #7 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 494
(View Stats)
iTrader: (3)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 155
Thanked 260 Times in 150 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 2 Times in 2 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score Do you have a manual? In it there should be a troubleshooting guide that should offer some guidance on the keyless system. If you don't have a copy I believe the downloadable PDF manuals (shop, wire diagrams and more) are in the VIP section but are certainly worth the price of admission alone.
__________________ '10 VRM MS3 3" JBR WP, ETS TMIC, KMD/Aviva HPFP, NGK LTR7IX, M2 TP, Grimmspeed, JBR & MD EGR delete, MD OCC, MD PMM, CPe Stg2 RMM, CS TMM insert Mazda Motorsports C/O, JBR RSB, SPC camber arms, Konig Hypergram 17x9 +40 & 200 UTQG rubber or Drag DR-49 18x8 +45, Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough. Sir Henry Royce |
| | |
![]() | | #8 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 35
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 85 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 2
Thanked 12 Times in 8 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score
UPDATE!!! Solution found! @ibcrusn; gets the assist on this one. The dealer was totally stumped about this as well. Never seen it before. My friend at the dealer was nice and they looked at it for free. After an extended test drive hooked up to their computer, they couldn't figure out what was causing the issue. Quoted me $100 for further diagnostics with no guarantee that they would find the issue. They said it was either the push button ignition switch or the keyless control module. Either a $200 or a $400 repair including parts and labor. I read the service manual and went over every troubleshooting step for a malfunctioning push button start. One of the steps mentioned testing for faulty wheel speed sensors but the ABS light should be on indicating a malfunction. No CEL or ABS lights on for me. The only other reference to malfunctioning push button start has been people coming off a dyno run not being able to shut off their car, with the ABS light on from the wheel speed sensors detecting a malfunction (only front wheels turning). Some people thought it was because the car was too hot. Turns out, our cars do not like their wheels spinning at different speeds!! On the rear of the car I had 1 snow tire that was 215 50 17 and another that was 215 45 17. I got an awesome deal on a used set of X-Ice and I didn't think a slightly different profile on one of the rear tires would mess with my push button start. LOL What is strange is that it took 2 months for the car to start having this issue, and it went away instantly now that my summer tires of equal sizes are back on. Glad I waited to see if the tires made the difference, it was a long shot! TL; DR: Tire sizes! Make sure your tires are all the same size. Otherwise check your wheel speed sensors. | |
| | |
![]() | | #9 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 494
(View Stats)
iTrader: (3)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 155
Thanked 260 Times in 150 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 2 Times in 2 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score Glad to hear you found the solution and it didn't really cost you significant money.
__________________ '10 VRM MS3 3" JBR WP, ETS TMIC, KMD/Aviva HPFP, NGK LTR7IX, M2 TP, Grimmspeed, JBR & MD EGR delete, MD OCC, MD PMM, CPe Stg2 RMM, CS TMM insert Mazda Motorsports C/O, JBR RSB, SPC camber arms, Konig Hypergram 17x9 +40 & 200 UTQG rubber or Drag DR-49 18x8 +45, Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough. Sir Henry Royce |
| | |
![]() | | #10 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 1,862
(View Stats)
iTrader: (2)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 757
Thanked 1,278 Times in 645 Posts
Groans: 1
Groaned at 7 Times in 7 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score good to know... not likely to encounter it with wrong sized tires, unless air pressure or wear is a serious issue but still good.
__________________ mods: \\// AT HPFP // AccessPort // CS S2 TIP, SRI and TMIC // CPe S2 RMM // Synapse BPV // Mazda gutted secondary cat // S-OTS+ 91S2 // HKS TP DLi II // Wilwood DP6 13” brakes // TCE 2 piece rear rotors // Maxwell SuperCap/LiFePO4 cell \\// waiting for install: \\// CPE Catted DP // CS Battery Box // Devils Own Meth kit // H&R Coilovers \\// |
| | |
![]() | | #11 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 1
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score
Had this similar issue, however it wasn't the same outcome. happened to get subs installed a while back and decided to remove them before hitting the drag strip. After running the car that night I couldn't shut the car off and it was stuck in ACC mode. couldn't figure it out and after looking into the fuses I found that the signal wire was tapped into one of the fuses on the internal fuse box under the dash. after removing the fuse the car turned right off. Very strange. | |
| | |
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| |
Similar Threads | ||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Hatch Push Button Surround | bryancregger | Exterior | 15 | 10-20-2015 07:16 PM |
| Push the buy button finally | JPele21 | Gen2 MS3 General Discussion | 4 | 09-10-2013 08:13 PM |
| Push Button Ignition Issue | tofastgt | Gen2 MS3 General Discussion | 10 | 05-29-2013 05:53 AM |
| Starting Car with Push Button | SLOWHATCH | 2010 MS3 - Torque Specs & information | 13 | 02-16-2011 03:37 PM |