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 Old 03-08-2014, 09:52 PM   #5001
 
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Began installation of coilovers, and everything was going great until the fuckin studs that hold the shocks to the cars body snapped!! I can't believe they fuckin snapped on a car with less than 7k miles on it fml, now I have a lot of extra work ahead of me
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 Old 03-08-2014, 09:53 PM   #5002
 
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Switched engine oil to T6, tranny oil to Motorcraft, rotated tires and switched back from Cobb springs to OEM. (I'm a puss...)
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 Old 03-08-2014, 10:13 PM   #5003
 
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Originally Posted by ear28 View Post
Switched engine oil to T6, tranny oil to Motorcraft, rotated tires and switched back from Cobb springs to OEM. (I'm a puss...)
What was wrong with the Cobb sprigs?

Got these in the mail today. Man The picture make them seem sooo much bigger lol. I have no doubt they'll fit.
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Last edited by El Beaner; 03-08-2014 at 10:13 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 03-08-2014, 11:02 PM   #5004
 
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Originally Posted by Yousuf View Post
Began installation of coilovers, and everything was going great until the fuckin studs that hold the shocks to the cars body snapped!! I can't believe they fuckin snapped on a car with less than 7k miles on it fml, now I have a lot of extra work ahead of me
That sucks bro. I hope the rest of the install goes smooth.
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Waiting to install:Built block, NJspeed PNP IM, Prosport boost and water temp gauges, coilovers and shit.
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 Old 03-09-2014, 12:18 AM   #5005
 
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Originally Posted by Yousuf View Post
Ya I agree with all those symptoms, when I first started up the car it felt like there was an enhanced engine/exhaust note, I just like an obnoxious car
Oddly enough though, it didnt do that after the install. I'll break it down into short story time like this:

Sept/13: replaced oem side mounts with JBR 70a's. Super noise from the tranny mount, like a supercharger whine for a good week. Was awesome though lol

Dec/13 : replaced hooped Sure R6 with JBR 80a and I swear it came broken in as there was little to no noise off the start. The urethane on the engine side of the Sure R6 had come apart and the pin was loose which added an extra bad rumble when it was breaking through the urethane while driving.

The noise is similar to that now. I'm thinking and afraid that it created a rut on the engine side recepticle (or whatever it's called) for the rear mount thats creating the noise as its bad.

Is that possible?

My only idea now is the tranny fluid is in need of replacing badly.
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 Old 03-09-2014, 12:32 AM   #5006
 
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Originally Posted by neganox View Post
Had my trans oil swapped for Motul.
You use the gear 300 ls?

Whats your initial impressions as thats what I'll be going with.

Originally Posted by Carraig042 View Post
Haha, I do love that fork! The frame is good as well, but if I keep doing much DH riding I will more than likely get a Devinci Wilson.

-Brett
Carbon? Fuck those are sexy bikes.
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SU Rear Interior Brace.StopTech Perf Pads.Centric X-D Rotors.TechnaFit Braided Clutch-Brake Lines.Damond PS Cooler.EGR. PeRM PCV Plate.
Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ 235/40/18.Drag DR-38 +47. Gloss Black Blue Undercut. Pirelli Sottozero s2 240 215/45/18. MS6 OEMs.

To order: Fullrace Exhaust Mani. FMIC. Damond side mounts. New built motor. Still thinking about Flowmasters

Last edited by Marcus; 03-09-2014 at 12:32 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 03-09-2014, 04:10 AM   #5007
 
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Originally Posted by BPASPEED View Post
That sucks bro. I hope the rest of the install goes smooth.
Ya man thanks, I hope I can pull this off lol
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 Old 03-09-2014, 04:16 AM   #5008
 
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Originally Posted by Marcus View Post
Oddly enough though, it didnt do that after the install. I'll break it down into short story time like this:

Sept/13: replaced oem side mounts with JBR 70a's. Super noise from the tranny mount, like a supercharger whine for a good week. Was awesome though lol

Dec/13 : replaced hooped Sure R6 with JBR 80a and I swear it came broken in as there was little to no noise off the start. The urethane on the engine side of the Sure R6 had come apart and the pin was loose which added an extra bad rumble when it was breaking through the urethane while driving.

The noise is similar to that now. I'm thinking and afraid that it created a rut on the engine side recepticle (or whatever it's called) for the rear mount thats creating the noise as its bad.

Is that possible?

My only idea now is the tranny fluid is in need of replacing badly.
Iirc from everything I've heard here the side mounts are harsher in terms of NVH, so it doesn't seem entirely out of the ordinary, what you're describing.. I don't fully understand what you're rmm trouble is exactly
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 Old 03-09-2014, 08:35 AM   #5009
 
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Originally Posted by El Beaner View Post
What was wrong with the Cobb sprigs?
They were a little stiff for me. If she weren't my DD, I'd have kept them on.
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 Old 03-09-2014, 09:16 AM   #5010
 
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Originally Posted by swsmailman View Post
It is actually really easy, just bolts in the wheel wells, two underneath, and two or three on each side that requires you to take off the rear light and such. Took me about 15 minutes to take my rear bumper off last time.
Thanks - this will be handy when I fight the lights next weekend.
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 Old 03-09-2014, 03:26 PM   #5011
 
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Did some satin white painting to kick off the engine dress up. It came out pretty good! Im going for a black and white scheme. Soon ill start wrapping some wire looms with white electrical tape.

Anyone know of any reasonably priced dress up parts?
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 Old 03-09-2014, 05:55 PM   #5012
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
I hope you actually disabled the code rather than just clearing it. If you didn't, you're going to have to keep clearing it over, and over, and over, and over, and over, and . . .

Well, you get the idea.

Yeah it is disabled, thanks for the concern though
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 Old 03-09-2014, 06:26 PM   #5013
 
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Finally got the right mix of weather, un-laziness, and toddler behavior and replaced the cabin air filters. As you can see I was just a bit over-due.

Now I just need the weather to cooperate next weekend so I can do my internals.
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 Old 03-09-2014, 07:10 PM   #5014
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Originally Posted by Marcus View Post
You use the gear 300 ls?

Whats your initial impressions as thats what I'll be going with.
I used the non-LS. Normal stuff. My shifter goes click-click-click now instead of crunch-crunch-crunch.
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 Old 03-10-2014, 08:26 AM   #5015
 
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Over the weekend I took out the battery/battery box and the HTP intake, took off the TMIC, took off the front bumper, removed the heatshields from the top of the stock DP and sprayed a good amount of PB Blast, got the car on some jack stands. I did that on Saturday then on Sunday I and SpeedEngineer installed the CPE Downpipe and it actually went a lot smoother than I thought it was going to.

I actually found some really good tricks that most of the guides had not even thought of and @SpeedEngineer; can even confirm one of them. Use a closed end wrench to provide some extra leverage on the rachet and you have an easier time of getting the nuts to come loose.

Got all 5 nuts removed from the DP without having the studs come out with them, I did all 5 of the nuts from the top of the car and did not even have to use a wobble joint on any of them. Just used a combination of short and long extensions, and both a deep and shallow 14mm socket. Had to remove the heat shields from the stock DP and then remove the brace that is also connected to it to get it to remove from the car. Had a bitch of a time getting the new DP installed as couldn't figure out a good way to get it up in there, but finally did. Got the DP buttoned back up but the car is still not running, have EGR delete left to do along with replacing some hoses and doing some clean up and such.

Hope to have the car running tonight and see how that catless DP plus no resonator sounds on the stock exhaust...
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Future Parts:: JBR 80 PMM/TSM, Coilovers, and much more
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 Old 03-10-2014, 08:27 AM   #5016
 
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changed the plugs with NGK Laser iridiums and loaded up the safe tune until the internals go in. Amazing how quick the job was. The TMIC came off in 5 mins. Now waiting for the autotechs to show up. I was gonna do them together, but I've had these plugs for a while now.
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 Old 03-10-2014, 01:31 PM   #5017
 
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Spent all of yesterday drilling out rear shock mount studs that broke, 3 of em...
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 Old 03-10-2014, 04:08 PM   #5018
 
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Installed my CPE top mount and started my tuning!



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 Old 03-10-2014, 06:58 PM   #5019
 
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Shot a go pro video of why I liked my ms3 lol yeah yea gayyyy lol
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 Old 03-10-2014, 07:00 PM   #5020
 
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Originally Posted by thems3driver View Post
Shot a go pro video of why I liked my ms3 lol yeah yea gayyyy lol
Let's see it
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 Old 03-10-2014, 10:33 PM   #5021
 
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Finally mounted new wheels.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
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 Old 03-11-2014, 12:35 AM   #5022
 
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Got this baby installed. uploadfromtaptalk1394519747306.jpg

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 Old 03-11-2014, 02:30 AM   #5023
 
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Got my Cobb AP, threw it in, did some stock data logs. Also did an oil change with spin on conversion because I absolutely loathe canister filters, I dont know why, but I feel they all need to be brought into a field and shot.

Also looks like tomorrow I might be putting in a new starter.
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 Old 03-11-2014, 11:10 AM   #5024
 
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Originally Posted by Yousuf View Post
Iirc from everything I've heard here the side mounts are harsher in terms of NVH, so it doesn't seem entirely out of the ordinary, what you're describing.. I don't fully understand what you're rmm trouble is exactly
Basically I'm thinking the old worn sure r6 front sleeve wore a rut on the backside of the engine where the rmm sleeves slide through (due to the poor urethane). There are vibes while running and then theres a grumble depending on the rpm's unless I kick the throttle a bit and then it seems to get out of the grumble and back to normal vibes. There's even the grumble usually shifting out of 4th to 5th while shifting. Its weird. The fact the grumble happens during shifting/in between gears is why I'm hoping its the tranny fluid.

Originally Posted by neganox View Post
I used the non-LS. Normal stuff. My shifter goes click-click-click now instead of crunch-crunch-crunch.
I'm guessing you have a speed3 and not a 6 ?
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 Old 03-11-2014, 12:24 PM   #5025
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Correct. Speed3.
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 Old 03-11-2014, 02:20 PM   #5026
 
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Got the car put back together to where it would at least start up last night, front bumper is still off as are the headlights, got some more stuff to button up tonight after work and will finally be able to go for a drive with the new Catless CP-e Downpipe installed. I did start it and it sounded really nice with no Cats and no resonators.

Also did some modifications to the ECU wire wrapping and removed that bulky white piece that is there as it was rubbing against the SRI and then wrapped the wires in electrical tape and then ziptied it really well to that bracket.
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 Old 03-11-2014, 04:50 PM   #5027
 
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A few days ago I installed the AP Stage-1 OTS 93, did my first oil and filter change, ever, in my life (1500mi - now using PP5w-30). Last night I ran my first 3rd and 4th gear pulls and 0-60 times ever. And this AM/PM did the largest maintenance I've ever done: installed JBR OCC. And man is space tight in there!

Still terrified I'm going to blow up my car because I'm not saying whatever magic incantations real mechanics say - I know it's magic - but the directions all seem clear enough.

I'm feeling good for an old dog. Feeling like I can still learn some new tricks and having fun doing it!

Next up: Internals and RMM. I've watched 3 videos and read several how-tos on the internals. I'm nervous, but I figure as long as I'm careful and have the AP to monitor I should be ok, right?

Attached are pics of the OCC: Let me know if you see any screwups with it! (the hose before the check valve is only 3-3.5" instead of the 4" recommended. Everything still fits so I hope that's not an issue)
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 Old 03-11-2014, 05:08 PM   #5028
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Originally Posted by ElChangoPelon View Post
A few days ago I installed the AP Stage-1 OTS 93, did my first oil and filter change, ever, in my life (1500mi - now using PP5w-30). Last night I ran my first 3rd and 4th gear pulls and 0-60 times ever. And this AM/PM did the largest maintenance I've ever done: installed JBR OCC. And man is space tight in there!

Still terrified I'm going to blow up my car because I'm not saying whatever magic incantations real mechanics say - I know it's magic - but the directions all seem clear enough.

I'm feeling good for an old dog. Feeling like I can still learn some new tricks and having fun doing it!

Next up: Internals and RMM. I've watched 3 videos and read several how-tos on the internals. I'm nervous, but I figure as long as I'm careful and have the AP to monitor I should be ok, right?

Attached are pics of the OCC: Let me know if you see any screwups with it! (the hose before the check valve is only 3-3.5" instead of the 4" recommended. Everything still fits so I hope that's not an issue)
Looks good man!
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 Old 03-11-2014, 06:10 PM   #5029
 
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Got my autotech internals installed. Had some nasty stuff on the OEM internals. AP log on OE showed 430 PSI idle and max of around 1700 (average 1650) WOT. I posted pics, any idea?

BTW, AP was showing around 430 psi at idle with autotechs, I didnt do any logs yet, gonna wait a couple days or 100 miles or so before doing a pull but it did max around 1780ish under slightly heavier than grandma driving.

Car is a 2006 MS6 with roughly 86k miles. I have only had the car for around 7-8k of that and have only used 93 octane and Rotella T6.
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 Old 03-11-2014, 07:19 PM   #5030
 
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Got that SRI + TIP installed.

AP, internals, and exhaust are on the way.
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 Old 03-12-2014, 02:06 AM   #5031
 
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Changed out transmission fluid for the Ford XT-M5-QS. Better: yes. $60 better: I'll see tomorrow during some in-city driving.
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 Old 03-12-2014, 08:46 AM   #5032
 
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Originally Posted by nekret View Post
Changed out transmission fluid for the Ford XT-M5-QS. Better: yes. $60 better: I'll see tomorrow during some in-city driving.
I didn't notice a significant difference.
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 Old 03-12-2014, 09:07 AM   #5033
 
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Originally Posted by steevieg View Post
Got that SRI + TIP installed.

AP, internals, and exhaust are on the way.
Nice, how is the sound? Can't wait to get my CS in this weekend. The closer to Saturday we get, the more anxious I get lol
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 Old 03-12-2014, 09:53 AM   #5034
 
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Got the car back together last night.

Mounted the HID ballasts and such underneath the headlights to clean up the engine bay some more. While I had the bumper off I went ahead and removed that metal shield that are in the fog lights so my LED bulbs will work a little bit better IMO for DRLs.

Loaded up a new map that removed the EGR codes and went for a ride, had some bad stuttering for a moment and also my LFTFs were way off, stopped at a gas station and went ahead and filled up with some of that good Shell 93. Had my laptop with me and checked my map, noticed that I had the wrong MAF calc on the Map I had so had to do some editing and the change it out. Once I put the new map on the LFTFs where back in normal range and the car was a lot better.

Car sounds a lot meaner and has a good exhaust note with the Catless CP-e DP and no resonator on a stock exhaust, from what I can it tell, I am already in love with the downpipe.
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 Old 03-12-2014, 11:10 AM   #5035
 
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Originally Posted by Cheapspeed View Post
I didn't notice a significant difference.
I noticed a pretty significant difference in 2-3 under load but still have my notchiness for 1-2... oh well, not all cheap mods turn out.
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 Old 03-12-2014, 01:54 PM   #5036
 
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Not my car, but I installed the new Cobb Gen 2 catback along with the Cobb downpipe on a buddy's car. Really clean setup and it sounds pretty good. It's a little quiet for my liking but its got a really nice tone to it.
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 Old 03-13-2014, 10:16 AM   #5037
 
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Ordered rear camber arms from jbr last night and woke up to an email saying they shipped
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 Old 03-13-2014, 10:58 AM   #5038
 
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Removed my AP mount that I had for my V2 and undid my the wiring for it as tomorrow I will be upgrading to a V3 while I am in Austin, cannot wait to be able to monitor more than one thing at a time.

Checked my fluids as I lost some coolant when doing my EGR and also wanted to see how the oil was after going to T6, going to be doing some driving this weekend and want to make sure I am all good to go.
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Installed Parts:: HTP 3" SRI, Autotech Internals, CP-e Catless DP, CP-e TMIC, FreekTuned, H&R Springs, JBR RSB, Cobb AP V3, JBR 88 RMM, JBR Battery Box, EGR Delete, various CorkSport styling parts, and other things
Not Installed Parts:: JBR Stage 2 OCC
Future Parts:: JBR 80 PMM/TSM, Coilovers, and much more
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 Old 03-13-2014, 09:39 PM   #5039
 
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Installed my turbosmart bov, cs bypass tube and one of the IC boost tubes since its an elbow and I guess I need a forearm. Could've cut it down but we ran of day light. But it was nice working on the car outside in shorts and a t shirt with beer.. even if it was Canadian.

Didnt have any silicone spray or wd40 so I ran inside to buddys kitchen and grabbed some budget pam. Almost cut too much off the tube though but its holding on good. Is the boost vacuum range of -18 to -25 normal?
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2006 Moist Metallica Silver Speed6 GT #6557 @ 267,000km
Leakdown results was 50% or more across all four. slow rebuild in progress

Corksport: Turb.IM.DP.OCC.3.5MAP.IC.RMM.TIP.FSB.Tubes.Strut Tower. JBR: 70a Sides.SSP.51r SURE: Full3Aeros.Dreadnaught.Juggernaught.Anchors.FlowM6 .Rad Hoses.
Stratified Custome Tune/APv3.Turbosmart DS BOV.Cobb EBCS.AT HPFP.Deatchsworks.CPe SafeSeals.H&R Coils.Moog Camber Arms. SPC Ball Joints.Whiteline Adj RSB.
SU Rear Interior Brace.StopTech Perf Pads.Centric X-D Rotors.TechnaFit Braided Clutch-Brake Lines.Damond PS Cooler.EGR. PeRM PCV Plate.
Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ 235/40/18.Drag DR-38 +47. Gloss Black Blue Undercut. Pirelli Sottozero s2 240 215/45/18. MS6 OEMs.

To order: Fullrace Exhaust Mani. FMIC. Damond side mounts. New built motor. Still thinking about Flowmasters
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 Old 03-13-2014, 09:55 PM   #5040
 
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Installed ultimate racing V2 catted downpipe and resonated testpipe.

My car sounds just like it did stock. That resonated test pipe works really well.
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