What did you do to your ride today?

[MSpeed3013]

Originally Posted by liljae8 I'm liking the bypass hose.

Lol thanks,8 bucks cant beat it...my plan was to use this and order a replacement asap, but I kinda like it...

Originally Posted by speedfreak44 @MSpeed3013; a little further back on this thread I posted a cheap bypass hose advance auto sells that works perfect for like $10.

I went to autozone and they didnt have anythimg....I didnt want to drive to every auto store for a rubber hose I passed home depot and I was lime bingo!!

How is your bpv hose holding up?

[Awal]

Originally Posted by liljae8 Yeah, get those internals in. It's not that hard to do, but a bit pricey.

I have the shop 100% free to myself tomorrow, in go the AT internals. I've had them for a week, just didn't have the proper tools/setup in my GF's driveway when I did my SRI/TIP.

Depending on when I get started and how much time I have I might throw the TBE in as well.

Besides a couple WOT pulls with a max KR of 2.8 (I know, too much for my liking too) it's been pretty safe. The 94 octane up here helps a bit, but I want to see .5 or less on WOT pulls b4 I do any more.


I do appreciate all the concern though, it's cool peeps care about some shmuck thousands of miles away.

[jeoje]

What did I do? I traded my 2011 MS3... D'oh! Already missing 'er a little... but only a little. Upgraded the car while downgrading my wallet with a 2015 Golf R. Sick car, hope I don't regret it...

If I ever get around to reaching 150 posts, there'll be a bunch of bolt-ons for sale real cheap on here, but I'm socially challenged so they'll prolly end up somewhere else

[Awal]

that's quite an upgrade, cash=AWD. I love me some Porsche, so I gotta love the worthy VWs. cant u reuse your AT internals? Or does the R use a dif system? if i was going to buy new again I'd wait for the next MS3 or else i would kick myself.

[Tifosi42]

Installed the Damond Motorsports OCC. At first I was like holy crap what did I get myself into, but after a beer I took my time and made ensure I did a tidy install, even though you can't see it my OCD would know better. The worst part is getting the OEM hose off of the PCV valve since the clamp and hose are in a terrible spot without taking everything off the front of the car. I managed not to break the PCV so I was happy about that.

I also made my Accessport mount permanent on my dash as the foam adhesive (several attempts with different foam adhesives failed in the heat) was not cutting it. I used some black pan head screws from the local hardware store and now that sucker isn't going anywhere. It looks good too, which again it must otherwise it would bother me.

[liljae8]

Originally Posted by MSpeed3013 Lol thanks,8 bucks cant beat it...my plan was to use this and order a replacement asap, but I kinda like it... I went to autozone and they didnt have anythimg....I didnt want to drive to every auto store for a rubber hose I passed home depot and I was lime bingo!! How is your bpv hose holding up?

Mine is still the OEM one and it's still holding up just fine. But we'll see. I might grab a cheap one in the future.

[iggy097]

Almost done with my fishing setup. Last piece is a sky box on the top for the rods and surf spikes. Fit my 50w, 15, 10 and 4000 rods inside. Tackle bag, dry bag etc.

[speedfreak44]

Hey where did you get the trailer thing? All the ones I find have 2" hitches instead of the smaller one

[Castillo817]

Originally Posted by Tifosi42 Installed the Damond Motorsports OCC. At first I was like holy crap what did I get myself into, but after a beer I took my time and made ensure I did a tidy install, even though you can't see it my OCD would know better. The worst part is getting the OEM hose off of the PCV valve since the clamp and hose are in a terrible spot without taking everything off the front of the car. I managed not to break the PCV so I was happy about that. I also made my Accessport mount permanent on my dash as the foam adhesive (several attempts with different foam adhesives failed in the heat) was not cutting it. I used some black pan head screws from the local hardware store and now that sucker isn't going anywhere. It looks good too, which again it must otherwise it would bother me.

About how long did it take you to install the occ?

[liljae8]

Originally Posted by jeoje What did I do? I traded my 2011 MS3... D'oh! Already missing 'er a little... but only a little. Upgraded the car while downgrading my wallet with a 2015 Golf R. Sick car, hope I don't regret it... If I ever get around to reaching 150 posts, there'll be a bunch of bolt-ons for sale real cheap on here, but I'm socially challenged so they'll prolly end up somewhere else

Good choice! In my opinion, though, I just didn't like the auto DSG gear box. Also, it wasn't as fun to drive, aside from being auto trans, the aggressiveness wasn't there for me enough. I still love my MS3. That raw feeling of driving a performance car. It might be a lot more fun when they come out with the 6 speed manual next year.

[razerer]

Originally Posted by iggy097 Almost done with my fishing setup. Last piece is a sky box on the top for the rods and surf spikes. Fit my 50w, 15, 10 and 4000 rods inside. Tackle bag, dry bag etc.

That's quite the setup man

[Tifosi42]

Originally Posted by Castillo817 About how long did it take you to install the occ?

All together it probably took me about 2 hours. It is helpful to have a small set of vise grips to move the factory hose clamps. Also, I started about two hours after driving my car and the OEM hose was easier to work still warm from engine heat. Most of my time was spent trying to not break the plastic PCV valve and routing the hoses to achieve proper length without cutting the hoses. Matt's online instructions are very helpful as well. I also took the time to drill a 1/2" hole in the bottom engine shroud for the catch can drain.

[jeoje]

Originally Posted by Awal that's quite an upgrade, cash=AWD. I love me some Porsche, so I gotta love the worthy VWs. cant u reuse your AT internals? Or does the R use a dif system? if i was going to buy new again I'd wait for the next MS3 or else i would kick myself.

I'm pretty sure the AT internals fit on the MK6 Golf, but I'm not sure about the MK7. The AT internals are one thing I left on the car when I traded it anyway. Regardless, it doesn't seem this car needs the upgraded internals. Dyno results appear to be excellent with only a stage 1 tune and upgraded air intake -- between 340 & 370HP.

I hope I don't kick myself for not waiting for the next MS3... but, given that I was ready to trade anyway, my MS3 was starting to have some weird ride quality issues - ie. somehow got a flat spot on the passenger rear in both my winter tires and Michelin PSS's, strange noise and oscillating feeling when turning under acceleration. Maybe it was as simple as needing an alignment, but I figured instead of dumping money into it, I should just cut my losses.

[jeoje]

Originally Posted by liljae8 Good choice! In my opinion, though, I just didn't like the auto DSG gear box. Also, it wasn't as fun to drive, aside from being auto trans, the aggressiveness wasn't there for me enough. I still love my MS3. That raw feeling of driving a performance car. It might be a lot more fun when they come out with the 6 speed manual next year.

I was on the fence regarding the DSG as well. The manual is what I miss the most from the MS3 in terms of fun factor and wanted to wait for it in the 2016 MY, but as mentioned in a previous post, I didn't think it'd be worth my while to wait. I'm getting used to the DSG, it's OK. The worst part about it is not being able to compensate for turbo lag off the start, unless you're using launch control (stock feature on the R btw).

And I hear you about the raw feeling, but I'll say that stock MS3 (I drove it for a few weeks after I stocked it out) vs. stock Golf R, the R feels more aggressive to me. Plus, the handling, oh lawd. I can put the pedal to the floor around so many more corners than I could with the MS3, unless I didn't mind the MS3 going straight with the wheels turned. Ass-end comes right 'round.

[Awal]

Originally Posted by jeoje I'm pretty sure the AT internals fit on the MK6 Golf, but I'm not sure about the MK7. The AT internals are one thing I left on the car when I traded it anyway. Regardless, it doesn't seem this car needs the upgraded internals. Dyno results appear to be excellent with only a stage 1 tune and upgraded air intake -- between 340 & 370HP. I hope I don't kick myself for not waiting for the next MS3... but, given that I was ready to trade anyway, my MS3 was starting to have some weird ride quality issues - ie. somehow got a flat spot on the passenger rear in both my winter tires and Michelin PSS's, strange noise and oscillating feeling when turning under acceleration. Maybe it was as simple as needing an alignment, but I figured instead of dumping money into it, I should just cut my losses.

It's all good, your money, your choice your car. I know the feeling of not wanting to dump $ into a never ending money pit, altho I don't think you were quite there, like you said, prob just tires/alignment and you would have been good.

I loves the colour you chose, but I have to say this. I will not buy a dual clutch manumatic until they stop making regular standards. It's really sad that Porsche has done away with almost all of their standard cars, altho their PDK is the best system by far. (watch why the 911 turbo is unbreakable, on youtube, 50 full throttle launches back to back to back, pretty much every other car will give you 3-4 then go into a cool down limp mode, 50 is insane)

Have fun with yer new baby, for that is all that matters in this world.

[MSpeed3013]

I logged with newly installed 3" JBR inplace of my CS set up, and S-OTS....Feels good, but shows lower numbers in virtual dyno, I am in florida and it was 92 degress... confused..... For your enjoyment....

JBR 3", AT Internals, M2 Long catless, CS TMIC, TS BPV, Accessport v2 w/ S-OTS stage2 93 oct.

[MortalMechanica]

Played dressup and tightened some body bolts.

[Finchee]

Finally placed an order for a Cobb Accessport V3 with Stratified Flash tune.

[Awal]

Originally Posted by Finchee Finally placed an order for a Cobb Accessport V3 with Stratified Flash tune.

Good choice, Stratified is an excellent company to deal with, Alex (Lex on MSF) really knows his shit, and the combo price for the Custom tune + AP is a really good deal.


Today I got my Autotech HPFP internals installed, altho it's a tight location, everything went very smoothly. No gas spewing everywhere, and a pretty easy job all told. Fired right up after I let the FP prime the system.

One weird thing tho, after installing the internals (disconnecting the neg bat terminal), replacing everything properly, my driver side window 'auto up/auto down' feature isn't working. It was working fine an hr earlier when I pulled into my shop, and via the AP there were no codes. I cleared the system of codes/whatever and the issue is still there. Gonna have to do some searching regarding this issue.


Next Sunday the CS catless 80mm TBE is going in, then Alex and I will work on my final (for now) custom tune in person. I'm just hoping the ceramic coating on the DP and TP is done by this Friday. The ceramic coating on the DP should def help flow a bit, and hopefully it'll help with heat-soak a little. I didn't want to go for the heat resistant 'wrap and rust' especially due to my area and how much rain we can see, combined with road salt.

[texasboy21]

Installed Denso ITV22s and a new cabin filter. Purchased the car with 28K miles, and its rolled over to 29K this weekend. Up next is a tranny fluid flush.

[Blown_Dan]

Originally Posted by Awal One weird thing tho, after installing the internals (disconnecting the neg bat terminal), replacing everything properly, my driver side window 'auto up/auto down' feature isn't working. It was working fine an hr earlier when I pulled into my shop, and via the AP there were no codes. I cleared the system of codes/whatever and the issue is still there. Gonna have to do some searching regarding this issue.

Push and hold the window button until it is down. Continue to hold for 3-5 seconds. Do the same thing in the up direction.

[Awal]

Originally Posted by Blown_Dan Push and hold the window button until it is down. Continue to hold for 3-5 seconds. Do the same thing in the up direction.

TYVM, I will go do it right now. I have done multiple flashes and bat disconnects, 1st time I've seen this. But now that you mention the procedure it seems to ring some bells, I must of skimmed over the info b4 but never fully brain logged it.

[Blown_Dan]

Glad I could help! I just had my battery out earlier today, and had to go through the same procedure. It was fresh on my mind.

[Castillo817]

I thought I was the only one with the 'auto up/auto down' problem with my window after installing my SRI/TIP lol

[Awal]

Worked like a charm. Def gotta do both up and down for 3-5 secs, lol had to try it to see. Thanks a ton!

I knew I seen it in a thread somewhere, thanks for saving me some re-research time. And now I'll always remember.

[iggy097]

Originally Posted by speedfreak44 Hey where did you get the trailer thing? All the ones I find have 2" hitches instead of the smaller one

You have to buy the adapter for the 2" - 1.25" - so that's the hidden hitch, adapter, surf cart attachment

[SnailSpeed3]

Did a bunch of stuff between this weekend and last... Got an OCC installed, EGR delete and rotated the little K04 to fit my new JBR under engine FMIC kit. Finally flashed my first Freektune revision and once the weather clears I'll go get some clean logs because the tires just would not hold on to the wet road when I mashed it in 3rd last night ...

OCC install wasn't too bad, PCV hose was a bitch to get off, but I managed without breaking anything so that made me happy.

EGR delete is cake, 'nuff said.

K04 rotation - IMO, 100% NOT WORTH IT!!! Dear lord the amount of fail associated with this install damn near had my lighting my car on fire. Now that it's all said and done, I am happy with the final outcome, but the effort required to pull, clock and reinstall the little k04, I would definitely not want to do that again. The piping kit fits good and mated up just fine to my TR6, but getting the turbo to fit back into position once it is clocked had me quite baffled for a while there. I finally had the insight to disconnect the two large coolant hoses to get enough clearance to slip the compressor inlet by and get the turbo into position (the inlet REFUSED to clear the black coolant hard line while it was still connected to the rubber hose that runs along the fire wall). So after three days of wrenching and sweating and sliding around on my back, my hands and forearms look like I got in a knife fight with a bunch of smurfs (this car was not designed to be accessible for people with man size hands), the turbo is clocked and my engine bay is oh so tidy and inconspicuous. Also note, be sure not to over tighten the bolts that clamp the compressor to the CHRA, they are made of wet macaroni and will shear off and cause you to have a mild panic attack!

Freektune - Freeeeeektuuuuuune, really need this rain to clear...

[JBR]

Originally Posted by SnailSpeed3 K04 rotation - IMO, 100% Totally worth IT!!! Dear lord the amount of fail associated with this install damn near had my lighting my car on fire. Now that it's all said and done, I am happy with the final outcome, but the effort required to pull, clock and reinstall the little k04, I would definitely not want to do that again. The piping kit fits good and mated up just fine to my TR6, but getting the turbo to fit back into position once it is clocked had me quite baffled for a while there. I finally had the insight to disconnect the two large coolant hoses to get enough clearance to slip the compressor inlet by and get the turbo into position (the inlet REFUSED to clear the black coolant hard line while it was still connected to the rubber hose that runs along the fire wall). So after three days of wrenching and sweating and sliding around on my back, my hands and forearms look like I got in a knife fight with a bunch of smurfs (this car was not designed to be accessible for people with man size hands), the turbo is clocked and my engine bay is oh so tidy and inconspicuous. Also note, be sure not to over tighten the bolts that clamp the compressor to the CHRA, they are made of wet macaroni and will shear off and cause you to have a mild panic attack!

I'm going to venture to guess you went in and out with the turbo from the top? What would have caused the potential fire? Di you have to heat bolts or something? We have numerous little tricks for getting the turbo in and out pretty fast.

[g00s3y]

Originally Posted by SnailSpeed3 K04 rotation - IMO, 100% NOT WORTH IT!!! Dear lord the amount of fail associated with this install damn near had my lighting my car on fire. Now that it's all said and done, I am happy with the final outcome, but the effort required to pull, clock and reinstall the little k04, I would definitely not want to do that again. The piping kit fits good and mated up just fine to my TR6, but getting the turbo to fit back into position once it is clocked had me quite baffled for a while there. I finally had the insight to disconnect the two large coolant hoses to get enough clearance to slip the compressor inlet by and get the turbo into position (the inlet REFUSED to clear the black coolant hard line while it was still connected to the rubber hose that runs along the fire wall). So after three days of wrenching and sweating and sliding around on my back, my hands and forearms look like I got in a knife fight with a bunch of smurfs (this car was not designed to be accessible for people with man size hands), the turbo is clocked and my engine bay is oh so tidy and inconspicuous. Also note, be sure not to over tighten the bolts that clamp the compressor to the CHRA, they are made of wet macaroni and will shear off and cause you to have a mild panic attack! Freektune - Freeeeeektuuuuuune, really need this rain to clear...

My experience rotating the k04 was simple, and 100% worth it if you want to be sure you won't be rubbing/breaking any A/C lines from the IC pipes rubbing them (They will, I already had to replace it once, reason I got the HTP kit). I went through the bottom to remove the turbo (first time I took it out went from the side, it did take about 10-15 minutes of playing with it just to get it out. After that went through the bottom and it's 10000000x easier), bolts were simple, DP is a piece of cake with the right tools.

I had to pull the turbo twice because the first time I didn't clock it far enough, and my WG wasn't working properly. Second time I think it took all of 3 hours total from start to finish.

[SnailSpeed3]

Originally Posted by jbarone I'm going to venture to guess you went in and out with the turbo from the top? What would have caused the potential fire? Di you have to heat bolts or something? We have numerous little tricks for getting the turbo in and out pretty fast.

Yeah went about pulling the turbo out through the opening where the intake/battery box usually sit. You should include those tricks in your instructions instead of assuming everyone knows the best way to remove their turbo, they would probably make life for guys like me a little easier... The fire would have been cause by me dumping gasoline all over the engine and lighting a match, I only said it for dramatic effect. As for shearing the bolt, that was 100% fail on my part for overtightening the thing, but it happened while I was just turning the socket wrench as usual to tighten a bolt, not cranking down with Hulk hands...

Just to be clear, my issue is not with your product, but the difficult time I had in using it. If some more experienced people are able to get the turbo in and out lickety split, then by all means this kit is for you, however I assume most of the folks around here are the weekend hobby wrencher like me and for me, with a lack of clear instructions included and this being the first time pulling and clocking a turbo, I would not want to do it again.

One comment on the kit itself though, the clamps included were a pain in the ass to use. They barely fit over the silicone and one clamp was actually unusable so I had to grab a worm clamp from around the house to sub in. Also, the clamp you include to wrap around the hot pipe and secure it to the timing cover, why is it so large in diameter? I tightened the clamp as much as it will allow and there is still ~1/8" - 1/4" clearance around the hot pipe. I would have just cut the silicone in half that was left from removing the 3.5" on the compressor inlet side and wrapped the hot pipe in that to take up some slack, but the weather advised otherwise with angry thunder claps and big wet rain drops. I will be addressing that clamp issue this evening after work so if you have a better solution I am very interested to hear it.

Originally Posted by g00s3y My experience rotating the k04 was simple, and 100% worth it if you want to be sure you won't be rubbing/breaking any A/C lines from the IC pipes rubbing them (They will, I already had to replace it once, reason I got the HTP kit). I went through the bottom to remove the turbo (first time I took it out went from the side, it did take about 10-15 minutes of playing with it just to get it out. After that went through the bottom and it's 10000000x easier), bolts were simple, DP is a piece of cake with the right tools. I had to pull the turbo twice because the first time I didn't clock it far enough, and my WG wasn't working properly. Second time I think it took all of 3 hours total from start to finish.

Yeah the DP wasn't too bad when I did it either, my big issue with this install was getting the K04 back in after clocking it, it came out nice and easy, I guess I shouldn't have assumed it would fit back in with no further issue. I wiggled and jiggled and turned that shit every which way, but couldn't get it in. So like I said after a little while of that, I realized that disconnecting those two coolant lines was the answer to my problems and I finally got it back in. I wish I would have known or thought to go through the bottom, but this was my first time doing anything like this and I just followed the instructions I had for the kit.

[Weazsel]

Replaced my shift knob with the OEM knob. All I have left is to take off my exhaust and I'm fully back to stock. This is the end for me. It's been real guys. Selling my car soon.

Keep up the good work MSF! I learned so so much from this site and had so much fun while doing it!

[WhiTe_JeZebel]

nothing fancy but replaced plugs with NGK 3787 and did the spring mod for better contact.

[Tifosi42]

Installed my Corksport TMIC. The install was pretty straight forward and the Corksport TMIC is a very nice piece. I used a an oscillating dremel tool to make quick work of the underside lip on the passenger side of the OEM intercooler shroud so not to bend any fins. I do not recommend using the 15 ft lb (20 Nm) torque spec as quoted per Corksport for the cold pipe bolts because I broke one of them using this torque spec. I thought it seemed like quite a bit and I found out that I was right. I ended up using a frame rail bolt I took out for my catch can install as a temporary substitute until I can get a new bolt. I also didn't care for the allen head screw for the OEM shroud because I'd rather a 10mm bolt head with the washers so I used some washers I had with the allen screws to secure the OEM intercooler shroud.

I also flashed my Stratified Stage 2.1 93 flash tune since I upgraded my intercooler. The little bit of driving I have done so far with the Corksport TMIC and flash tune I definitely am seeing more boost and it seems to hold that boost longer in the RPM band.

[liljae8]

Nothing fancy here, just wrapped my MPS badge with red carbon fiber. It turned out ok. I still have more vinyl so I might redo it. It's fine for now.

[Awal]

Originally Posted by liljae8 Nothing fancy here, just wrapped my MPS badge with red carbon fiber. It turned out ok. I still have more vinyl so I might redo it. It's fine for now.

Interesting, when I get my insurance covered body-work done on my bumper I want to get my emblems/etc coated dark grey/silver (titanium-ish) to match the LSM and more importantly the tint, OEM wheels, etc.

[acousticdefbot]

Originally Posted by Awal Interesting, when I get my insurance covered body-work done on my bumper I want to get my emblems/etc coated dark grey/silver (titanium-ish) to match the LSM and more importantly the tint, OEM wheels, etc.

plasti dip. simple, looks good, cheap, durable, removable.

[Awal]

Originally Posted by acousticdefbot plasti dip. simple, looks good, cheap, durable, removable.

Yup, that was the plan after I get the new front emblem/recess, then I'll get my body dude to remove the rear stuff, and plasti-dip em while my car is being repaired. This guy who is doing my body work is fluent in rice, lol.

I also want to do my TMIC & engine fuse/relay cover the same approximate colour as the CS Bat box, I think it would really tie the engine compartment together while still looking quite stock.

[nas711]

Replaced a tire today (well 2 to be sure) after we found this from a slow leak ive been having for months now... phew

[speedfreak2013]

Matt damond pmm installed last night and as of today i would say 5 out of 5 stars on quality and vibes from stock to upgrade i noticed only slight difference no rattle and feels awesome

[jeoje]

Originally Posted by nas711 Replaced a tire today (well 2 to be sure) after we found this from a slow leak ive been having for months now... phew

Holy shit, that was a close call!