What did you do to your ride today?

[WFO!]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBU1gLu_Lv4

loctite freeze and release o2 sensor

I dont know how to embed but check this quick video on youtube.
The womans response at the end was like mine! hahaha!
Shit actually works.

[SparkySparks]

I won the conversation with the shop about using a South Bend Stage 3 Endurance clutch instead of stock. uploadfromtaptalk1434108549861.jpguploadfromtaptalk1434108566130.jpg

[csmaan12]

I got my birthday gift finally from a month ago, Flossy Red Head Shorty shift knob . Took a while to get it, but it's sexy as hell.

[acousticdefbot]

Originally Posted by csmaan12 I got my birthday gift finally from a month ago, Flossy Red Head Shorty shift knob . Took a while to get it, but it's sexy as hell.

and you were driving down the road all like:



also, i like the engraved m on the top.

[csmaan12]

Originally Posted by acousticdefbot and you were driving down the road all like: also, i like the engraved m on the top.

Hahaha yeah it's a bit too red I now realize, but fuck it its sick. Maybe further down the road I'll repaint it black and make the M red instead.

[Castillo817]

Installed this little fella

[AwAfrican]

Originally Posted by Castillo817 Installed this little fella

Nice occ! Definitely my can of choice

[Castillo817]

Was a hassle to install but well worth it!

[Awal]

fucking around with my AP a bit, ditched the temporary locked 'pre HPFP' etune from Alex, getting way too much KR (2-3 on WOT).

Tried Cobb's OTS St1+IC 91 (plus the necessary 3.5" MAF cal and 850 idle), on a few runs (that I didn't log properly), KR never exceeded .48. I decided to try the same map but for 93 octane and got some ok logs, one plugged into VD properly.. Unfortunately KR came back up to almost 2, so i'll be flashing it back to the 91 map for now. Not coming near the 17psi boost target on either.

here are the 2 logs on the 93 octane St1+IC OTS flash, any feedback is appreciated.

EDIT: On Junes 12th, lots more logs (some better) of the newly flashed OTS St1 91 oct + IC + 3.5 MAF cal.

[skoski17]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJnB...ature=youtu.be

Some logs on hopefully the last of pump gas. Bring on the Ethanol and new tires!

[AwAfrican]

Jbr SSP and shifter weight installed! I Like the feel so far.

I was running the Cobb shift weight on its own the jbr is a touch heaver I'd say I like the heavier feel a bit better, still lighter and better than stock I may try the SSP with the Cobb weight just to see.

For those curious (sorry I'm in Canada so you get grams) stock weight ~500g (don't know where stocker is right now to weigh it) jbr 360g and Cobb is 190g
uploadfromtaptalk1434407690897.jpg

[speedfreak44]

Have you tried no shift weight? I liked that the most.

[Awal]

Originally Posted by speedfreak44 Have you tried no shift weight? I liked that the most.

really? ok, I've gone to the CS SSP and SBushing but left the stock weight on, gonna have to try the CS weight (which should be about 500g by the looks of the JBR), then try no weight. I'm still at about 30ish % reduced throw, was about to go to 40%. I'll do one adjustment at a time.. 1st to 40%, then to 40% and CS's weight, then to 40% and no weight.. It's so easy to access with a SRI I'm def down to try them all.

I just seemed to see that most peeps preferred the OEM weight than a lighter one, that's why I left my oem on.

[WFO!]

OEM weight for the win. End of story.

[speedfreak44]

@Awal; you know what else I prefer? Building your own ssp for about $8 lol. Mine isn't the absolute prettiest thing but it is made out of aluminum and has lasted me about 35k miles no issues.

[Awal]

Originally Posted by WFO! OEM weight for the win. End of story.

After I try the 40% w/ OEM weight I'll give the CS one try and report back.. I do know from exp that if you go to too light of a weight it usually doesn't feel right, and makes it less smooth in shifting..

Still wanna try the CS weight to see, but I think no weight would be not so great..

[Castillo817]

Installed my FMIC and HTP 3" SRI

[Awal]

Originally Posted by speedfreak44 @Awal; you know what else I prefer? Building your own ssp for about $8 lol. Mine isn't the absolute prettiest thing but it is made out of aluminum and has lasted me about 35k miles no issues.

sf44 I feel you, but without ANY brand of SSP already in hand, it's not something I would want to fab from scratch unless I got the exact measurements via calipers from an owner of a SSP already.. The plate it's self is not a big deal, including mounting holes and the OEM shifter connection clearance hole, it would be getting the 70 degreeish rounded adjustment slot right that I would be worried about..

If my car wasn't pretty much brand new I would make my own just from basic calculations and common sense, but for 79.99 for the SSP and SBushings, yes, it ain't $6, but it's a pretty damn cheap part for what it does.. if yer not comparing it to a ~$10 custom unit that is..

Originally Posted by Castillo817 Installed my FMIC and HTP 3" SRI

Dust the front of it in flat black and put a stock MZ3 hood on it.. sleeper action

[speedfreak44]

Not nearly as hard as you think. I took the oem weight off, used a digital caliper to measure hole placement. Factored in how far away the new shifter ball needed to be mounted for approx 35% reduction in throw and tapped the hole. Then measured the distance to the old shifter ball and used a drill press to shave just enough out of the plate to recess it. I know it seems like a lot but when you already have the tools and enjoy math problems it is a fun project to knock out for next to nothing. Thought about mass producing these and selling on ebay but I never got around to it because I am...how do you say it...preoccupied (aka lazy as fuck)

[Awal]

Originally Posted by speedfreak44 Not nearly as hard as you think. I took the oem weight off, used a digital caliper to measure hole placement. Factored in how far away the new shifter ball needed to be mounted for approx 35% reduction in throw and tapped the hole. Then measured the distance to the old shifter ball and used a drill press to shave just enough out of the plate to recess it. I know it seems like a lot but when you already have the tools and enjoy math problems it is a fun project to knock out for next to nothing. Thought about mass producing these and selling on ebay but I never got around to it because I am...how do you say it...preoccupied (aka lazy as fuck)

Not as hard as you think if you include a good quality drill press (which I don't have (mines in storage, would cost me 1/2 a day to get to it), proper calipers (which a lot of people don't have) and good quality aluminum stock (which most people don't just have lying around).

I totally have no problem with math and fabbing shit up, but the shop I work in doesn't do much fab work, which means we don't have a lot of said tools on hand (mostly the drill press and 5mm(ish) aluminum stock. Also, finding a ball mount with threads (for adjustability) isn't that simple..

If I worked in a Machine shop, whole dif story.. I would have made my RMM, PMM, TMM, Shifter Bushings, SSP and even the fuel pump internals..

Bottom line you are 100% right, a SSP is a very basic piece and cots maybe 25% of what they are sold for (including powder coating and lead weight)..

[Castillo817]

Originally Posted by Awal Dust the front of it in flat black and put a stock MZ3 hood on it.. sleeper action

I would but I like the aggressive look of this hood.
And yea, I need to paint the grill!

[Awal]

Originally Posted by Castillo817 I would but I like the aggressive look of this hood. And yea, I need to paint the grill!

Everybody has dif likes and priorities, and that's the way it should be. I know if I ever go to a FMIC I'll be axing my hoodscoop to get my car looking like a MZ3. I know the scoop still helps with keeping the engine bay cool even with a FMIC, but for me that would be the ultimate in Genpu sleeper action.

[AwAfrican]

Originally Posted by speedfreak44 Have you tried no shift weight? I liked that the most.

Definitely not doing no shift weight thought the hole point of it was to go help keep it in gear during spirited driving. The Cobb one was light enough for me wouldn't want less Pearson

[speedfreak44]

@AwAfrican; no the point of the weight is to make the shift feel smoother and more positive on engagement. Does nothing to keep it in gear. Before you knock it I would suggest trying it out for a day. Takes less than 5 mins to try it.

[AwAfrican]

Originally Posted by speedfreak44 @AwAfrican; no the point of the weight is to make the shift feel smoother and more positive on engagement. Does nothing to keep it in gear. Before you knock it I would suggest trying it out for a day. Takes less than 5 mins to try it.

Ahh fair enough!

[Myrick]

I like how they came out.. Gotta peel dip off tires still and remove my anti plastic rotor caliper kit. Aka trash bag.

[Awal]

not too shabby Myrick, i gotta find some PD to match the CS BBox so I can do my TMIC shroud and fuse panel so everything matches.

[tec_41]

I couldn't find any plastidip that I liked so I went with VHT wheel paint. I love the way they turned out. This was the first one I did before learning how to pop out the center cap (durrrr).

They look darker in person.

[Myrick]

Peeling dip off the tires sucks when there is a bunch of small lettering on the tires, recommend taping for anyone considering it.

[MS3XY]

Originally Posted by tec_41 I couldn't find any plastidip that I liked so I went with VHT wheel paint. I love the way they turned out. This was the first one I did before learning how to pop out the center cap (durrrr). They look darker in person.

They look mint, the ones I've seen painted in person didn't come out as good.

[skoski17]

Well I was bored... And boredom tends to make me think of new ways to tinker with my car. I am sure this has been done already. So I grabbed some RTV out of my tool box and went to work. Laugh if you want but I saw a change. I made sure to go out close to the same time of day (waited until the temp was the same outside) so both days were logged at 88 degrees. Cruising speed of 55mph, then a 4th WOT to RL.

1st log, non sealed.
Low
BATS - 118
IAT - 100

High
BATS - 151
IAT - 100

2nd log, sealed
Low
BATS - 97
IAT - 88

High
BATS - 145
IAT - 90

Low BATS difference - 21
High BATS difference - 6
Low IAT difference - 12
High IAT difference - 10

The last two of the wrapped intake is suppose to combat heat soak and prevent it from happening. Well I did some before and after logs and I noticed that before I would see my IAT climb 3-5 degrees on average while cruising at 55mph. After, there was no climb and maintained the same temp. Is it worth the ugly ass wrap... not really, but I am always tinkering and trying to find new ways to improve upon the car.

[SpeedRebirth]

Originally Posted by skoski17 but I am always tinkering and trying to find new ways to improve upon the car.

If you want to further decrease BATs then I suggest TIGs for throttle body and intake mani unless you've already done it. Wasn't listed in your signature

[JBR]

Originally Posted by SpeedRebirth If you want to further decrease BATs then I suggest TIGs for throttle body and intake mani unless you've already done it. Wasn't listed in your signature

By 10 to 15 degrees. Pretty significant amount.

[skoski17]

Originally Posted by SpeedRebirth If you want to further decrease BATs then I suggest TIGs for throttle body and intake mani unless you've already done it. Wasn't listed in your signature

It is next on my list now that I see @jbarone posted how much they actually help. I just figured it was something minor. I never could find actually digits to how much is saved. But before that... I really want to clean up the intake wrap, just looks like shit. It really didn't want to form around the pipe. So there is that plus heat tape the tmic and thermal wrap my dp. I'll probably get the gaskets with my meth inj.

[sheston]

I'm a little late for the shift weight conversation, but I decided to try no weight. Have to say I really like it. Easier to "feel" it go into gear. I just replaced the short shifter with a could bolts and double nutted it.

I was having issues finding 3rd gear when hitting it hard, and that seems to have solved that problem

[Cheapspeed]

Originally Posted by sheston I'm a little late for the shift weight conversation, but I decided to try no weight. Have to say I really like it. Easier to "feel" it go into gear. I just replaced the short shifter with a could bolts and double nutted it. I was having issues finding 3rd gear when hitting it hard, and that seems to have solved that problem

I hate the feel of no weight. I was getting interference getting into every gear. I like the stock weight the best.

[Awal]

Originally Posted by skoski17 It is next on my list now that I see @jbarone posted how much they actually help. I just figured it was something minor. I never could find actually digits to how much is saved. But before that... I really want to clean up the intake wrap, just looks like shit. It really didn't want to form around the pipe. So there is that plus heat tape the tmic and thermal wrap my dp. I'll probably get the gaskets with my meth inj.

If you're going to remove your DP to thermal wrap it, I highly suggest getting it professionally ceramic coated. I don't have any #s for our cars with vs without, but I have done a fair bit of research on ceramic coating, and it's been shown to decrease header temps by as much as 70%. That's probably a best case vs worst case type comparison, but my buddy who does ceramic coating for a living says (conservatively) that it will reduce the heat coming off a part by at LEAST 30%. Ceramic coating on the inside has been shown to help speed up the exhaust gases as well, more noticeable on an N/A than a boosted car, but still beneficial.

I had my DP and TP done for free, but he said they would charge about $100 CDN for the DP and TP, less if you don't have a divorced WG pipe like the Corksport version. The cost for just regular straight piping is $18 per foot for 2.5" and $20 per foot for 3", inside and out. The price goes up quite a bit when you're talking about really curly and twisted piping, but it lasts a very long time, and sometimes there isn't space for thermal wrap in some engine bays.

Also in moist/wet/humid areas heat/thermal wrap can hold moisture right up next to your part and rust it out quite badly..


If I ever need to take my turbo off, or when I buy a BT, I'll be getting at least the exhaust side done, and the stock ex mani or any aftermarket ex mani I can get. I will probably have any and all heat-shields I might still have on the car coated.

My buddy's shop offers it in several colours too, black, flat black, chrome (which looks more like the colour of aluminum), flat silver and titanium. I had him mix up 2 parts silver to 8 parts titanium to try to get it to match the LSM colour theme. It turned out really nice, can't wait to install it. Just waiting for a 11 piece Mac O2 sensor/sender unit socket kit with O2 sensor thread chaser, my primary O2 sensor didn't want to budge with a brand new budget regular style O2 socket. Also want the thread chaser to remove any extra ceramic coating and any manufacturer flaws. At work we deal with a lot of brand new ex manifolds and exhaust parts where the threads aren't perfect and can fuck up a brand new O2 sensor.

Originally Posted by Cheapspeed I hate the feel of no weight. I was getting interference getting into every gear. I like the stock weight the best.

I prefer the stock weight over the CS weight as well, I haven't gone weightless yet, but I doubt that is what I will prefer considering my preferences so far..

[speedfreak44]

Ceramic coating makes a ridiculous difference. Before having my heat shield done I could not keep my hand between it and the tmic. After having it done I can almost touch the heat shield. Just be careful because the ceramic coating can be scratched off pretty easily. Shouldn't cost more than about $100 to do the pipe. Considering good heat wrap costs half that the choice should be fairly simple. Go ceramic.

[speedfreak44]

@Awal; that DP looks sick. Send it to me for free? I will break in the ceramin coating for you over the next 100k miles

[Awal]

Originally Posted by speedfreak44 Ceramic coating makes a ridiculous difference. Before having my heat shield done I could not keep my hand between it and the tmic. After having it done I can almost touch the heat shield. Just be careful because the ceramic coating can be scratched off pretty easily. Shouldn't cost more than about $100 to do the pipe. Considering good heat wrap costs half that the choice should be fairly simple. Go ceramic.

Your are absolutely correct about it being fairly easy to scratch, I suggest wrapping the part (the stuff like DP etc, the ones you need to install in tight places) in cellophane/cling wrap during installation, then removing it once it's installed.

To just have a short DP done, it shouldn't be more than $50-60, the TP part should be like $40 as it's pretty straight.

I'm gonna do my ex mani HS for sure, since we lose the DP HS, it's the main protection for the TMIC.

I need to pic up one of those IR Thermometers to test some of this shit out.




large LOLZ, even better @speedfreak44; how about I send it to you for free AND pay you to test it, $1.25 a mile.