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 Old 07-01-2015, 09:38 AM   #8081
 
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Two days ago I installed a fire extinguisher after reading @Code Monkey;'s build thread (Mazdaspeed6 for road racing) in which his MS6 caught fire on the track! I picked up a Kiddie brand BC-type designed for automotive use. The charge is sodium bicarbonate, which is far less corrosive than your standard dry chemical. Hopefully I never have to use it.

Then yesterday, I took off my intake manifold and cleaned the intake valves. This is the first time this has been done on my car with over 100,000 miles on the clock. Let me tell you, they were FILTHY! At first I tried simply walnut blasting, and all it did was turn it into walnut cake. I had to soak the valves in B12 for a bit, then scrub the crap out of them for a while with brass gun brushes, scrub some more, and scrub even more, and then finally walnut blast. A nice thing I discovered is that only one set (1 cyl) of valves are open at a given time, which enables doing 3 cyl at a time, turning the crank, and doing the final cyl.

I previously was a skeptic about the whole valve cleaning thing, but now I'm a believer. It made a huge difference. She runs so much smoother now. No more bucking when letting off the throttle under load in mid RPM's, idles better, transitions better back onto the throttle, etc…

Unfortunately it was getting late, and in my haste, I forgot to take after photos. Attached, none the less are photos from before. Oh yeah, don't forget to change your oil after a valve cleaning, kids! Rotella-T 5w-40 synthetic for me.
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 Old 07-01-2015, 10:39 AM   #8082
 
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Man I want to clean my valves pretty soon
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 Old 07-01-2015, 02:17 PM   #8083
 
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Every time someone posts about cleaning valves it reminds me that I gotta get on the WMI asap. Gotta get it installed while my valves are still pretty clean, those pictures just help to drive the point home, thanks!
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 Old 07-01-2015, 05:01 PM   #8084
 
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Actually Ive seen far worse than those valves.
Somebody was talking at the shop the other day about using Easy Off oven cleaner on valves. Seemed to make sense.
I used a hardcore popcorn machine cleaner (Solvent) on an exhaust one time that had baked on black carbon/oil etc. Dissolved it easily and quickly.

I believe this was the stuff I used on the exhaust.

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 Old 07-02-2015, 09:52 AM   #8085
 
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Originally Posted by Awal View Post
Every time someone posts about cleaning valves it reminds me that I gotta get on the WMI asap. Gotta get it installed while my valves are still pretty clean, those pictures just help to drive the point home, thanks!
That was my impression as well initially, but after researching the topic a bit, apparently your valves will still get all gunked up, even with WMI; maybe just not quite as quickly so. Perhaps it is because the WMI is not a continuous thing, but rather only injected under heavy load. For this reason, an oil catch can and possibly even an EGR delete is often recommended.

The only reservations there seems to be on the aforementioned are that an OCC needs to be periodically emptied/serviced, and can potentially freeze up in colder climates. IIRC, I also seem to recall some complaints about rough running/idling issues after an EGR delete install. Perhaps those with first hand experience could chime in?

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 Old 07-02-2015, 10:30 AM   #8086
 
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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1435858232.624621.jpg starting brake job.
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 Old 07-02-2015, 11:05 AM   #8087
 
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Job wouldn't be complete without loads of Harbor Freight tools...hahaha.

(been there)
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 Old 07-02-2015, 08:12 PM   #8088
 
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Originally Posted by GregScuba View Post
That was my impression as well initially, but after researching the topic a bit, apparently your valves will still get all gunked up, even with WMI; maybe just not quite as quickly so. Perhaps it is because the WMI is not a continuous thing, but rather only injected under heavy load. For this reason, an oil catch can and possibly even an EGR delete is often recommended.

The only reservations there seems to be on the aforementioned are that an OCC needs to be periodically emptied/serviced, and can potentially freeze up in colder climates. IIRC, I also seem to recall some complaints about rough running/idling issues after an EGR delete install. Perhaps those with first hand experience could chime in?

It's so weird, it's almost like we read the same forums or something!

yeah, I have an OCC, and will through it on, even though I'm in Canada the Pacific Ocean + Rocky Mountains = very mild winters, very rarely under 0 (32* F) here, and I'm guessing that it takes a bit more than 0 to freeze it as it is insulated to a degree. I also don't drive my MS3 in the winter much if at all, I got an '88 323 gt for that stuff.

I've read all the same shit about peeps fighting rough idle, and I want none of that. but I do have the OCC and EGR block off to try.


Regarding the WMI, how many people installed it prior to already having a good layer of build up? it's always easier to keep anything clean before the shit gets sticky, and I'd be willing to run 100% MI for a certain amount of time every 2-3 months just to help keep it that way, then run it based off higher boost/load normally.

I'm certainly not afraid of doing it, I own a full size cabinet media blaster and have a modified gun set up that works outside of the enclosure, but any time I can save some time, and if I can keep my valves consistently cleaner for better power/mileage/throttle response etc, why not give it a go.


I would like to see WMI results on an engine with 10k miles or less, opened up at 60-100k to see what they look like.. I've seen some pretty convincing pics of some clean valves said to be that way because of WMI but I can't recall all the details.


I just order the Corksport Lil' BBK, rear pads, RSB, MCB, and now I'm just shopping around for a good set of road rotors to round out the kit. Can't wait to get them installed. Good luck with yer brake job, gotta love discs (unless u've owned a few '88 323 GT/GTX, slide hammers FTW, sucks to replace rotors).
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 Old 07-02-2015, 08:41 PM   #8089
 
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Originally Posted by WFO! View Post
Actually Ive seen far worse than those valves.
Somebody was talking at the shop the other day about using Easy Off oven cleaner on valves. Seemed to make sense.
I used a hardcore popcorn machine cleaner (Solvent) on an exhaust one time that had baked on black carbon/oil etc. Dissolved it easily and quickly.

I believe this was the stuff I used on the exhaust.

Easy Off is a magical tool when it comes to cleaning, especially on baked on crap.

We don't have a recirculating solvent tank/brush at the shop I work in so I have quite the strange assortment of cleaning products, pump-sprayers, abrasives. A buddy of mine from school showed me how well the oven cleaners work on cars and I've been using it ever since. There are other types/brands etc but Easy Off is definitely one of the best. A great multi-purpose cleaner for anything greasy/oily..
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CORKSPORTFull Race RMM CORKSPORTPMM CORKSPORTTMM CORKSPORTTMIC(temporarily uninstalled for Warranty BS) CORKSPORTECU RELOCATION BATTERY BOX(temporarily uninstalled for Warranty BS) CORKSPORTSSP CORKSPORTSHIFTER BUSHINGS CORKSPORT3.5" POWER SERIES SRI/TIP(temporarily uninstalled for Warranty BS) CORKSPORTBPV(temporarily uninstalled for Warranty BS) CORKSPORTRSB @ Full Stiff CORKSPORTMid Chassis Brace CORKSPORTHood Struts + decals for 20whp CORKSPORTLicense Plate Frames
COBBAP v3 w/ Window Mount
AUTOTECHHPFP INTERNALS

ToBeInstalled:
CORKSPORTFull Catless TBE, Rear Trunk Brace, Adjustable FELs, Cold Air Box (modified for 3.5")
dbaDBA42962S Front and Rear Rotors
StopTechRear Braided SS brake lines
JBROCC & VTA OCC kit, EGR BO, Boost Tubes
Cooling MistWMI kit
StratifiedCustom Tune (as soon as TBE is on)

On Deck
wilwoodFastbrakes DP4front Caliper kit (w/ bp-10 pads and braided SS fr lines)
Hawk PerformanceHB478F.605 or HB478Z.605 rear pads
BilsteinB16s
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 Old 07-02-2015, 08:59 PM   #8090
 
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@Yatta; when you are done there head my way. Stoptech rotors and pads in mail currently lol
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 Old 07-02-2015, 09:31 PM   #8091
 
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I used Berryman B12 on my valves, and it seemed to work fairly well. I'll also try the Easy Off next time. Anything to make the tedious job of valve cleaning any easier! I figure I'll probably do it again in another 30,000-40,000 mi, or whenever she starts running a little rough again.

In the mean time, WMI is becoming that much more enticing. Now that the valves are cleaned, I think it's time for a proper E-tune. I would like to keep my compression numbers where they are (195-200 in all 4cyl).
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 Old 07-03-2015, 09:39 AM   #8092
 
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Serviced the car for a track day on the 4th.

Oil change - Motorcraft filter and Rotella T6
Transmission fluid change - Redline MTL GL4 75w-80
Brake fluid flush - Motul RBF600
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 Old 07-03-2015, 09:54 AM   #8093
 
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Went to the stealership to cancel my warranty which I don't know why I got it in the first place
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 Old 07-03-2015, 11:20 AM   #8094
 
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I checked the spoiler today. The two nuts on the end were not too bad. The ones in the middle were half way down the bolts. No more rattle when I close the trunk.
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 Old 07-03-2015, 11:54 AM   #8095
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Changed yet another fog lamp bulb...ugh.
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 Old 07-03-2015, 12:54 PM   #8096
 
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Windows tinted 15%
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 Old 07-03-2015, 03:51 PM   #8097
 
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Oil changed and CP-e RMM installed. More vibes than I anticipated but wow what a difference.
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 Old 07-03-2015, 04:15 PM   #8098
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Originally Posted by klam5000 View Post
Oil changed and CP-e RMM installed. More vibes than I anticipated but wow what a difference.
I have the Stage 2. And it does calm down around 1k miles.

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 Old 07-03-2015, 04:44 PM   #8099
 
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Originally Posted by MS3Shadow View Post
I have the Stage 2. And it does calm down around 1k miles.

Sent from my HTC M9

Ill tell you one item in my car that hates the stage 2, is the dashcam. My dashcam is mounted on the rearview mirror. Vibrates like a MOFO. Playback is often useless, looks like your mirrors do when your subs are pounding. Almost 6 months never got any better.
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 Old 07-03-2015, 04:58 PM   #8100
 
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Washed, Clay Bar, Polished and Waxed my Black Mica... Detailed the interior as well. Fiddled with the new AP v3.
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 Old 07-03-2015, 05:27 PM   #8101
 
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I finally tried Iron-x.
Ill never claybar again. Basically spray on, wipe, rinse off, smooth like glass.
Definitely on the short list of things that dont suck.
Finish was factory fresh again with minimal effort.
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 Old 07-03-2015, 05:32 PM   #8102
 
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Originally Posted by WFO! View Post


I finally tried Iron-x.
Ill never claybar again. Basically spray on, wipe, rinse off, smooth like glass.
Definitely on the short list of things that dont suck.
Finish was factory fresh again with minimal effort.
The idea of the clay bar is to extract paint contaminants, i.e. Dirt, stones, imperfections in paints. How does iron x do that? Thanks.
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 Old 07-03-2015, 06:29 PM   #8103
 
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The stuff is godlike.
Opens the paint pores and actually dissolves any metal particles stuck to the paint instantly. No need to shear them off with clay.
Metal particles turn purple and run down the paint.
When you're done the paint is like glass.
You can still clay over that if you like but I see no need at all.
Try a small bottle. You will be floored.
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 Old 07-04-2015, 02:42 PM   #8104
 
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3 bar Map sensor done !
waiting for CS turbo install
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 Old 07-04-2015, 03:14 PM   #8105
 
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Installed JBR solid shifter bushings, what a pain that was kept dropping them under the carpet lol! Oh well finally in and feels much better definitely a recommend upgrade shifts feels smoother and solid, feel like less chance of missing a gear. Also while I had the center console apart o cleaned all the spilled coffee off everything

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 Old 07-04-2015, 04:22 PM   #8106
 
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no time to clean all the slop in the center console/cup holders like while yer mucking about the shift cage. did the same thing when I did mine, stuffed a couple rags on either side to prevent loosing anything to the carpet monster.
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 Old 07-06-2015, 06:05 PM   #8107
 
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Removed the shift weight this weekend, and got a chance to try it out today on my commute. I think it feels a lot better now, and I got a threaded paper weight out of the deal.
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 Old 07-06-2015, 07:24 PM   #8108
 
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Finished my 93 self tune today...I think...is that shit ever really done? 288/338 final numbers.

Got my stoptech brakes in the mail. They will be going on later this week. I suck and forgot to order the rear pads. Fail on my end.
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 Old 07-06-2015, 08:06 PM   #8109
 
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Finished my 93 tune today and started my ethanol tune
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 Old 07-06-2015, 08:33 PM   #8110
 
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Originally Posted by WFO! View Post
The stuff is godlike.
Opens the paint pores and actually dissolves any metal particles stuck to the paint instantly. No need to shear them off with clay.
Metal particles turn purple and run down the paint.
When you're done the paint is like glass.
You can still clay over that if you like but I see no need at all.
Try a small bottle. You will be floored.

So it works like wheel cleaner but for paint? My only issue is that there is more in the paint than just metal contaminants. I'll still have to try this!

Originally Posted by AnimalMother View Post
I checked the spoiler today. The two nuts on the end were not too bad. The ones in the middle were half way down the bolts. No more rattle when I close the trunk.

Ive tightened all 4 of my bolts and the damn thing still rattles when I close the trunk. I feel as if I tighten them anymore, they will strip. Oh well.
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 Old 07-11-2015, 05:48 AM   #8111
 
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Installed stoptech slotted rotors front and rear and stoptech ceramic pads all around. No real change in feel over stock stuff but looks good
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 Old 07-11-2015, 06:36 AM   #8112
 
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Originally Posted by speedfreak44 View Post
Installed stoptech slotted rotors front and rear and stoptech ceramic pads all around. No real change in feel over stock stuff but looks good
The upgrade difference will come in play when you do repeated high speed stops. Just be careful when it's cold and the pads aren't warmed up. Brake performance may actually decrease until they are warm, in cold weather. Do a few 0-100-0 tests and let me know how they are .
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 Old 07-11-2015, 06:42 AM   #8113
 
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I am familiar with these setups as I have used similar ones on other vehicles. I did a few 110 to about 15-20mph slow downs (i dont like coming to a complete stop when breaking hard because it causes hot spots) and they feel marginally better than oem in the fade department but I wouldn't say it is like night and day different. Then again it has been a long while since my oem were new lol

UPDATE 7-13-15:
Did a single hard brake from 120-10 where I typically mess around with my car and there was absolutely no fade. Brakes felt the same from the moment I stomped on them to when I released them. Again it has been a long time since my oems were healthy and new but if your memory is better than mine maybe you can get an idea here of the performance the stoptechs give.
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Last edited by speedfreak44; 07-13-2015 at 08:27 AM.
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 Old 07-11-2015, 09:41 AM   #8114
 
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Finally broke down and made a rice purchase. It was a great deal so I bought/put in my Forge v2 BPV. Its like the stocker but louder. I justify it in my head with the fact that some OEM valve's leak at 20 psi but mine didn't.

I just had the mod bug.

My cc hates me lol.
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 Old 07-11-2015, 08:40 PM   #8115
 
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20% tint, wash and wax. Took some pics in old new castle and that damn road was miserable, had to stay under 5mph or shake to death, even the RX7 did better on it. When I got home I removed the Mazdaspeed 3 badging from trunk. Tomorrow I'm gonna attempt to remove the M and make it evil.
Oh, I raced a race prep nova today, pulled up to a light behind cop he pulls up next to cop we cruise along cop turns off lanes merge in a short period so 40mph roll. Kept up for a long while then he took lead and I merged behind to a thumbs up from the driver. Was seriously fun. It was first time I hit wot.
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 Old 07-12-2015, 01:41 PM   #8116
 
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started the rear 2 piece rotor installed, got close; but either I am a moron or the brackets don’t allow enough clearance for the stock caliper carriers.... consolation prize, I have SS lines on the rears now.
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 Old 07-12-2015, 02:12 PM   #8117
 
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Are the rotors you used wider than oem? Did you make sure you turned the piston clockwise while depressing it to relieve pressure? Did you put the outer retaining clip on before attempting to slide the pads over the rotor (it has to go on last)? Just checking
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 Old 07-13-2015, 04:48 PM   #8118
 
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Oil change 44140km just over 6k km fron last one usuing penzoil platinum and Napa gold filter

sent via tapafail!
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 Old 07-13-2015, 05:02 PM   #8119
 
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Did a throttle body coolant bypass and ordered some Konig Oversteer 18x8 +35 wheels and some 235/40/18 tires. Should be here by the end of the week!
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 Old 07-14-2015, 01:46 AM   #8120
 
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Installed JBR's rear sway bar, billet brackets and moog end links... WOW!!!! feels a whole lot less like a minivan's rear end.
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