What did you do to your ride today?

[knocturnal]

Originally Posted by Cmfk Yeah I got the jmf plate for the injection. What is the pcv plate for? And I was looking the JBR piping but I saw a video of it flexing under boost so I opted for an aluminum piping Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

yes i saw that and i emailed them changing my order to the cx racing piping from RPM. I also got the black powder coat option too. The pcv plate just has more fitting so that i can attach two oil catch cans.

[Cmfk]

Oh ok that's cool

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[TorchMS3]

Originally Posted by BankShot So jus askin, did the MAF do anything driveability wise. DId you notice anything?

Damn did I have a long ass weekend.

Here's where I stood before the issues came up... I installed the JBR 3.5-in aluminum intake (true 3.5-in aluminum from the turbo coupler to the filter with the MAF connection TIG welded in-line), and added the new MAF table variables to the tune. Then I installed the CS turbo with it and had the ECU velcroed to the top of the stock battery box. And finally, I installed the CS battery box to house the ECU. All ran well up until about a good 3 weeks after.

Jump to when I bought the MAF...

The old MAF O-ring fit snug into the JBR 3.5-in SRI, but got chewed up by whatever stupid fucking grainy powder coating they put on the setup. The aftermarket replacement had an even larger O-ring. It sealed, but wasn't completely seated. I think it might have helped, but likely a placebo effect.

Jump to this weekend...

FUCK THIS! Time for a boost leak test! I tried two different methods... First, I did the propane test along all of the vacuum lines, injector ports and FMIC tubing while the car was running. No red flags. Second, I plugged the FMIC tubing connected to the throttle body, build one of those DIY pressure injection rigs to connect to the turbo outlet piping, saturated all connections with soapy spray, and pressurized it. Nothing. No leaks.

So another FUCK THIS moment where I decided to pull the battery box and JBR SRI. The battery box was shoe-horned in there, and pressed against the SRI because of ECU wires as well as hot and ground wires being such a bitch to route into it.

For the JBR SRI, I cut off the tiny mounting bracket (mounted to the SRI bolt wouldn't allow for the battery box, tucked behind the bolt and it came loose from the turbo coupler). I then sanded down the shitty gritty powder coating on the valley for the MAF so that the MAF would sit properly. Finally, I torqued the ever living hell of the turbo coupler down to the end of the JBR SRI (the true flow doesn't have a flared end like it does on the filter side, what the fuck were they thinking?)

For the CS Battery Box, I used my Dremel to open up each of the wire ports so that they not only made it easier to route wiring, but also so that it doesn't push on JBR SRI. It's now an easy removal and install that doesn't put pressure on the SRI.

Overall, the car is running strong with no issues as seen before. Power seems to be back, but I've only driven it 20 miles.

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TL;DR
Pulled my hair out over CELs . Bought replacement parts. Parts not likely the issue. Modifications via Dremel done that likely solved the issue.

[Phillip123]

I treated her some new floor mats.

[Dennisms3]

Installed my tr8 core, cx racing core didn't do a good job for the bnr s3.

[PurplFox]

Originally Posted by Dennisms3 Installed my tr8 core, cx racing core didn't do a good job for the bnr s3.

Just did the same last week. About to build some deflectors to help channel the air. Some one else on here did it and it seemed to help with the coolant temps.

[Dennisms3]

Originally Posted by PurplFox Just did the same last week. About to build some deflectors to help channel the air. Some one else on here did it and it seemed to help with the coolant temps.

I already put around 30-40 miles the car since the tr8 core. So far its great, got it to work with my cx racing piping kit. I saw in the forums people were mounting it kinda at an angle because it wouldn't clear. So what ended up doing was trimming my crash bar, there is like a bent triangular piece of metal welded onto the bottom of the crash bar. It was held on with a couple welds. I got rid of that piece. This allowed me to mount the intercooler almost completely straight. I then customized the old brackets to bolt the intercooler up. Also I modified the power steering line just a little bit. Everything cleared awesome. Coolant temps are normal, and bats are way cooler than ever, not to mention this intercooler flows so well! Couldn't be any happier.

[PurplFox]

I guess i was lucky. I just pulled the core and swapped it. Made my own brackets from 4" home-depot angle pieces. Fits straight up.

[Dennisms3]

Originally Posted by PurplFox I guess i was lucky. I just pulled the core and swapped it. Made my own brackets from 4" home-depot angle pieces. Fits straight up.

It bolted straight or at an angle?

[PurplFox]

The brackets are at an angle and the core is Parallel to the a/c condenser .

[Dennisms3]

Originally Posted by PurplFox The brackets are at an angle and the core is Parallel to the a/c condenser .

Oh, nice!

[PurplFox]

On the GenWin it should fit. Ill try and snag a couple of piktars.

[Dennisms3]

Originally Posted by PurplFox On the GenWin it should fit. Ill try and snag a couple of piktars.

I do have a gen one, but couldn't get it to fit parallel to the radiator and from touching the power steering lines. Thats why i decided to trim the crash bar. But pix would be great, just curious to see how other people mounted theirs.

[PurplFox]

Did you move the power steering cooler. Once it was moved i had plenty of clearance.

[Dennisms3]

Originally Posted by PurplFox Did you move the power steering cooler. Once it was moved i had plenty of clearance.

I did not. Im sure that if I did move the power steering line I would have had plenty of room. That is why I ended up doing it the way I did.

[PurplFox]

I moved the hose side up 2 bolt holes and temporarily using a zip-tye to hold up the other end. will be using a piece of flat stock the make a perm. mount.

[Unstable]

Got my diffuser on and looking good ;D

[silentdoer]

I had my tires balanced.

[StevenPThomas]

New wheels and tires.


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[Jushewa]

had just about enough of the winter weather and couldn't wait any longer

[sheston]

Went to Lowes and picked up 4 X 40 lbs bags of dirt. Man I'm glad I've pulled at least that much weight off my car. Forget how much less weight helps until I do something like that or have passengers :-)

[Oshiguru]

Picked up my Cobb AP and flashed a COBB OTS Stage 1+SF tune. It might be a placebo effect but the car requires more throttle effort now, also no noticeable gains or losses in power

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by Oshiguru Picked up my Cobb AP and flashed a COBB OTS Stage 1+SF tune. It might be a placebo effect but the car requires more throttle effort now, also no noticeable gains or losses in power

OTS maps are garbage. Get in touch with Freektune, Stratified Auto, or one of the other e-tuners and get an OTS+ tune instead. It'll wake the car up nicely.

[ToyCop]

Originally Posted by Jushewa had just about enough of the winter weather and couldn't wait any longer

Almost did the same thing a week ago, but one of my summer tires has a nail in it. Today I woke up to 6" of fresh snow.

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by ToyCop Almost did the same thing a week ago, but one of my summer tires has a nail in it. Today I woke up to 6" of fresh snow.

DORIFTO!

Sadly, you got a lot more there than we did here in A2.

[csmaan12]

Spent about 4 hours destroying my hands on sharp plastic and metal, but I finally installed my Glowshift Boost Gauge + Block8Head vent pod. 4 Hours because I had to run to the store for extra fuses, the add-a-circuit, and extra wire.

FWIW, you drill a hole in the defroster vent near the bottom left with the biggest drill bit I could find, used that hole to route all of the wires + hose. 1 wire (switched) went to the back of the cigarette lighter, the other wire went to the fuse that said (outlet) with an add a circuit fuse thingy. Ground is tucked away under the trim where I found more ground wires on a bolt to the chassis.

Looks sexy, seems to work pretty well, hope I never have to take anything out again.

[texasboy21]

Originally Posted by Oshiguru Picked up my Cobb AP and flashed a COBB OTS Stage 1+SF tune. It might be a placebo effect but the car requires more throttle effort now, also no noticeable gains or losses in power

The Cobbs maps use "boost logic" that requests boost pressure vs the stock tune that uses load based tuning. You have to get into the gas more to get into the boost. Its basically like driving a car with a manual boost controller. Like its always posted, the Cobb maps are not very good.

[Oshiguru]

Originally Posted by Vansquish OTS maps are garbage. Get in touch with Freektune, Stratified Auto, or one of the other e-tuners and get an OTS+ tune instead. It'll wake the car up nicely.

Agreed. The OTS map is garbage, went back to stock and the car feels better. I'm contemplating getting the JBR tru 3" before I message Alex for a flash tune. I've had no issues with my K&N but it is one of the less desired (if not avoided) intakes.

Originally Posted by texasboy21 The Cobbs maps use "boost logic" that requests boost pressure vs the stock tune that uses load based tuning. You have to get into the gas more to get into the boost. Its basically like driving a car with a manual boost controller. Like its always posted, the Cobb maps are not very good.

Makes more sense now, thanks.

[6kipps]

I installed CS Max Flow internals and started working on a new self-tune. Should be an adventure over the next couple of weeks!

The install was not nearly as hard as I anticipated - went a whole lot quicker and smoother than the OCC I installed about two weeks ago.

[blackms3_71]

Changed my v.c and my oil. Just to find damage to one of my cam lobes and metal in my
Oil!!! Yay me

[blue speed]

Cleaned my BPV and changed the oil.

[666barry]

Washed my car.
Gathering the parts to do some fixes. Pcv, springs, license plate lights things, check my HIDs, change fog bulbs, boost leak test, reflector to LED swap, paint my wheels, get an alignment, get my wheels repaired, rotors turned, egr delete, banjo bolt replacement, thermostat replacement. Fuck lol



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[Jonb82]

Corksport Rmm, 3" intake TIP, HPFP, itv22 spark plugs. That nipple on the EBCS though... smh


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[texasboy21]

Originally Posted by Jonb82 That nipple on the EBCS though... smh

I dont understand why this part is so often broken, and gives people so much grief. Instead of yanking on the line, use a razor blade or exacto knife and make a slit vertically from the bottom of the line (where it meets the solenoid) to the top of the nipple. You can then easily pull it off without damaging anything.

My HTP instructions stated this method and it was a breeze.

[5doorsoffury]

Sand blasted my TC in preparation for paint. Also discovered how much it sucks to sand blast with out a cabinet, quality blaster or proper media... I am still amazed where the sand got.

[lasserudn]

So much has been done! So here are some pics from driving to a buddies place!

[Arkangel77]

Originally Posted by MS3Shadow I get around 25MPG and more if I cruise more often. sent from my Nexus 6P

Well - I did install the Stage Zero tune. SO far I haven't gotten any better MPG - but Not 100% convinced yet - still working on it.

Few Days ago I installed the spin on Oil filter adapter and in the process I checked the VVT - Seemed like it had slack in it.

More digging will be required....... I stopped by the shop today and they told me to just wait till the check engine light came on - seems fishy to me. Like I said more digging and reading will be required

[csmaan12]

Originally Posted by Arkangel77 Well - I did install the Stage Zero tune. SO far I haven't gotten any better MPG - but Not 100% convinced yet - still working on it. Few Days ago I installed the spin on Oil filter adapter and in the process I checked the VVT - Seemed like it had slack in it. More digging will be required....... I stopped by the shop today and they told me to just wait till the check engine light came on - seems fishy to me. Like I said more digging and reading will be required

Did you drive it till it's warmed up and immediately check it as fast as possible. Also please find another shop lol, doesn't seem right to wait for potential damage to occur and THEN go to them.

[tmillner]

Originally Posted by lasserudn So much has been done! So here are some pics from driving to a buddies place!

Any more pictures of your front bumper, looks interesting

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[Arkangel77]

Originally Posted by csmaan12 Did you drive it till it's warmed up and immediately check it as fast as possible. Also please find another shop lol, doesn't seem right to wait for potential damage to occur and THEN go to them.

Agreed about the shop - as for the Chain - No car was COLD - had bin in shop for several Hrs