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 Old 06-19-2016, 08:18 PM   #10041
 
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Originally Posted by Oshiguru View Post
I just ticked past 55000 kms and I think my car is old.



Keep in mind things like nvh and ride quality is all subjective. In my opinion the ride is better than stock. It's just as firm on nice even roads, but nice and stiff on bumps and turns. It feels more comfortable on those bumps as well. Stock felt like the whole car would jar and shake and the kws seem to be pushing down quicker on these bumps and absorbing the shock?



Only complaint is that I set my rears to the highest setting I could (with security ring still on the adjuster) and it only has a 1 finger gap. Im sure I could remove the rings and go higher but I'm afraid I'll go too high and pop the threads out of the adjustment thing (no idea for the proper name of the part )


Put the stock rubber gasket thing on ur aftermarket springs. That worked for me.



Got the new s4 installed on monday.. A little late lol. On a base map atm but i can tell shes going to be fun to drive when tuned.
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 Old 06-19-2016, 08:52 PM   #10042
 
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Installed some denso itv22 plugs in preparation for a freektune soon.

Originally Posted by blackms3_71 View Post
Put the stock rubber gasket thing on ur aftermarket springs. That worked for me.



Got the new s4 installed on monday.. A little late lol. On a base map atm but i can tell shes going to be fun to drive when tuned.
Did you get a bundle on the s4? I am so envious, I just had my smoking K04 replaced under warranty and want to see how she runs until my warranty is up in 10k to then pull the trigger on a bnr s4. How was the install btw?
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 Old 06-19-2016, 11:58 PM   #10043
 
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Originally Posted by Revolv0 View Post
Installed some denso itv22 plugs in preparation for a freektune soon.





Did you get a bundle on the s4? I am so envious, I just had my smoking K04 replaced under warranty and want to see how she runs until my warranty is up in 10k to then pull the trigger on a bnr s4. How was the install btw?


No bundle on the s4. I already had all other mods needed. U can check out my big turbo thread.

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 Old 06-20-2016, 07:51 AM   #10044
 
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Wrapping up my S4 install, just waiting on a tune and a couple minor things.

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 Old 06-20-2016, 01:06 PM   #10045
 
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Over the weekend I managed to get a few things done... Got my JBR rmm swapped out for the Damond mount (still have the tmm and pmm to install, but that will have to wait until I can get some more time to wrench). Also changed out the cabin air filters, they were a little crusty after 42k. I finally got my airlift bags installed too, they've been sitting around for months waiting to go in...

Now I need to find time to install the other two Damond mounts, my oil temp/pressure gauge, coolingmist meth kit, 3-bar MAP sensor and 3-port ebcs. Gonna try and budget some time to get everything else installed ASAP, but with my wedding coming up, free time is a luxury I don't quite have...
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 Old 06-20-2016, 01:59 PM   #10046
 
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Buddy and I washed it and installed rear lit reflectors because I wired my old ones wrong and blew fuses.





Also the Ford Jungle Juice in the tranny solved the 3rd gear grind! Full-boosted shifts are had at will now.
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 Old 06-20-2016, 03:37 PM   #10047
 
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Finally got around to swapping out my res-less midpipe for a pristine Canadian midpipe. Cabin is so much nicer to be in now even considering that while my MI rust was pissing me off, I also threw in a 70 duro JBR PMM.
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 Old 06-20-2016, 06:46 PM   #10048
 
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Added a Maisonvi shift knob.
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 Old 06-23-2016, 04:09 AM   #10049
 
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Replaced my emblems.


Last edited by MS3Shadow; 06-23-2016 at 04:57 AM.
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 Old 06-23-2016, 04:39 AM   #10050
 
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Originally Posted by ranviper View Post
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 Old 06-23-2016, 07:55 AM   #10051
 
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Originally Posted by ranviper View Post
Where did you get your emblems? Mine doesn't lay flat on the hatch and is driving my ocd a little crazy.

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 Old 06-23-2016, 06:48 PM   #10052
 
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Originally Posted by nekret View Post
Where did you get your emblems? Mine doesn't lay flat on the hatch and is driving my ocd a little crazy.

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Found it on eBay. I know what you're saying, I actually had to bend it slightly to get it to sit flush. I put it under a lot of heat so it was somewhat malleable and was able to press it hard enough it took shape.
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 Old 06-24-2016, 09:55 AM   #10053
 
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LOF and Test pipe! just rolled over 70K miles...
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 Old 06-24-2016, 01:31 PM   #10054
 
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Installed my Damond OCC today.
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 Old 06-24-2016, 02:08 PM   #10055
 
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monday i paint matched the front grill and fog surrounds to the wheels, today i paint patched the rear lower bumper! love it! also 15mm rear wheel spacers in the rear. front spacers next week.
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 Old 06-24-2016, 04:26 PM   #10056
 
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Originally Posted by Mmahan3510 View Post
monday i paint matched the front grill and fog surrounds to the wheels, today i paint patched the rear lower bumper! love it! also 15mm rear wheel spacers in the rear. front spacers next week.
Looks good. I'll be the same parts painted black mica at some point.
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ETS TMIC, Ultimate Racing test pipe, Damond dual OCCs, Damond TMM, CP-E S2 RMM, COBB APv3, Freektune OTS+ 93 Oct.
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 Old 06-24-2016, 04:40 PM   #10057
 
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Originally Posted by ToyCop View Post
Looks good. I'll be the same parts painted black mica at some point.
Flat black here ftw
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 Old 06-24-2016, 08:34 PM   #10058
 
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Replaced my ACT 6 puck friction disc for the one that I put too much grease on the tranny splines and ruined (caused to slip). Added an 88 duro trans mount to add to my race car noises
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 Old 06-25-2016, 03:44 PM   #10059
 
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Installed long down pipe , and Damond motorsports RMM from 9 to 4 today. One of the screws that held the Midpipe to the turbo stripped out all the threading and was a total bit bitch to extract. The job would have taken me less time, but the dipshit Mazda technician didn't torque the 5 nuts to 30lbs, so it was a pain. Plus I did not have a 7/8" o2 socket.

The combination of guttural exhaust ( with an ultimate racing cat back) and rmm was sensory overload. How can you explain why an almost 30 year old wants these things, instead of a Mercedes s class for example?

Because race car.
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 Old 06-25-2016, 06:59 PM   #10060
 
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Originally Posted by Revolv0 View Post
Installed long down pipe , and Damond motorsports RMM from 9 to 4 today. One of the screws that held the Midpipe to the turbo stripped out all the threading and was a total bit bitch to extract. The job would have taken me less time, but the dipshit Mazda technician didn't torque the 5 nuts to 30lbs, so it was a pain. Plus I did not have a 7/8" o2 socket.

The combination of guttural exhaust ( with an ultimate racing cat back) and rmm was sensory overload. How can you explain why an almost 30 year old wants these things, instead of a Mercedes s class for example?

Because race car.
Mercedes cam be race cars as well...your argument is Invalid
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 Old 06-25-2016, 07:42 PM   #10061
 
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Originally Posted by AwAfrican View Post
Mercedes cam be race cars as well...your argument is Invalid
Yeah I'm pretty sure nobody here can afford that Mercedes, so you point is invalid lol

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 Old 06-25-2016, 11:20 PM   #10062
 
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Had some shenanigans with my friend is his BTR tuned/bolted BK2 genny....they're still slow. He dynoed at 290/350, still had him by a car length when we went to Mexico.

Now I'm waiting for UPS to notify me my TMIC is ready for pick up on Monday. That's the real nail biter because after is when I'll bite the bullet and hit up Freek tune for the full deal.
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 Old 06-26-2016, 12:06 PM   #10063
 
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painted my valance.


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 Old 06-26-2016, 01:01 PM   #10064
 
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here's a better view in the sun.


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 Old 06-28-2016, 09:10 AM   #10065
 
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I was trying to avoid buying an ETS TMIC...but then I got a good deal and bought a brand new one...so here it is in all its glory.
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 Old 06-28-2016, 09:18 AM   #10066
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Installed a TRS bi-xenon retro-quik kit for my main projectors, but couldn't hook up the solenoids for the bi-xenon actuators because TRS failed to provide all the hardware they were supposed to.

Moreover, there were zero, ZE-RO instructions available anywhere, despite a multitude of links saying otherwise. Pretty fucking disappointed and pissed off at TRS, but happy with the light output.
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 Old 06-28-2016, 09:26 AM   #10067
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
Installed a TRS bi-xenon retro-quik kit for my main projectors, but couldn't hook up the solenoids for the bi-xenon actuators because TRS failed to provide all the hardware they were supposed to.

Moreover, there were zero, ZE-RO instructions available anywhere, despite a multitude of links saying otherwise. Pretty fucking disappointed and pissed off at TRS, but happy with the light output.
Post up some pics when you get the chance please. I've been interesting in the TRS kits for a while now. Pretty sick of the crap stock projectors.
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 Old 06-28-2016, 09:53 AM   #10068
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Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 View Post
Post up some pics when you get the chance please. I've been interesting in the TRS kits for a while now. Pretty sick of the crap stock projectors.
It's worth the switch, I can state that without any equivocation. The lenses are a significant upgrade from the OE projector lenses on their own. The TRS lenses are polished and optically clear. The OEM lenses are smooth, but have "orange peel" and have a slight haze to them.

I suspect that if you were really enterprising, you could simply buy some of the TRS 2.5" clear lenses and swap them into the OEM projectors and have massively better light output as well.

That said, the TRS Retro-Quik kit for the Mazda6/MS6 is pretty comprehensive (except for the pigtail and instructions that they left out . . . fuckers). The install is really straightforward for the most part. You take the headlamps out of the car, heat up the butyl glue on the headlamps, carefully and slowly pry them open, swap stuff out, put new stuff in, reseal, hook-em up and go. Here's the how-to everyone should have if they're going to do this on an MS6:


#1 most important thing: If you order this kit, make sure to specify that you want the MS6 brackets, not the regular 6 brackets. There is apparently a difference!

- disconnect the car battery

- remove bumper (or as much of it as you need to pop the headlights out - they're attached by four bolts, if memory serves)

- unplug the headlamps from the harness, a long screwdriver may help

- using a thin screwdriver, remove each of the small steel clamps that hold the lens to the backing of each headlight

- using a heat gun (no need to use the oven), heat the butyl glue that holds the lens to the backing of each headlamp. With a butter knife or something similar, slowly work the lens away from the backing. DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING!

- unscrew the headlight adjusters all the way

- disconnect the D2S socket from the D2S bulb

- slide the OEM projectors out of the headlamp housing

- unscrew the projector from the OEM bracket

- screw the spacers onto the TRS bracket

- screw the TRS bracket onto the OEM bracket

- screw the TRS projector onto the TRS bracket

- attach the new H1 bulb to the TRS projector (wipe the bulb down with the supplied alcohol wipe, but DO NOT WIPE THE PROJECTOR LENS with anything that will leave residue - ask me why . . .)

- attach the bulb pigtail to secure the bulb to the projector

- attach the bi-xenon pigtail to the projector

- run the wires from the bi-xenon pigtail through the extra holes in the rubber dust-cap on the bulb pigtail

- attach the connector for the bi-xenon pigtail to the leads on the bi-xenon pigtail

- screw the newly-mounted TRS projector back onto the headlamp adjusters

- attach the TRS H1 --> D2S adapter to the bulb pigtail, and attach the D2S adapter to the OEM D2S connector

- If you're using the bi-xenon pigtail, then connect it up to the hot wire and the ground for the high-beam as well (they suggest soldering or using "Scotch Clamps").

[NOTE] You can run the bi-xenon pigtail inside the headlamp housing from the low beam area to the hi-beam area, or you can use the supplied dust-cap (mentioned above) and cut a hole in each of the dust cap for the low-beam and for the hi-beam and route the bi-xenon pigtail outside the housing in doing so.

- Go out to your car and plug both units into their respective plugs on the wiring harness, reconnect the battery and test the units together.

- DO NOT test them individually. The imbalance in load across the wiring harness can shorten the lifespan of the bulbs and of the igniters.

- Once you're sure that everything is hunky-dory, unplug the battery again, remove the headlamps from the car again, and go back inside with both headlamps to re-seal them.

- BUT . . . before you re-seal anything, clean the inside of your plastic headlamp lens. Mine had 142k miles of small amounts of condensation or whatever the fuck was in there, and they had a great layer of light-blocking film on them. I got as much off as I could, but I was in a little bit of a hurry and couldn't get it all. I'll post some pictures of the OEM lenses, and you'll see that the film was on the lenses too.

- Seal both headlamps up good and tight. You can probably rely on the OEM butyl glue residue that will be all but fucking impossible to remove, but you can also do as I did and purchase some from TRS with your kit ($12.00, if memory serves).

- go reinstall the headlamps, and enjoy your new-found brightness.


Edit:

Here's what I ordered:................Qty.
D2S > AMP Ballast Adapters........1........2 x D2S > AMP Ballast Adapters $15.00
Retro-Quik: Mazda 6 (02-08).......1........2 x Morimoto Mini H1 LHD (7.0) $130.00
Bi-xenon Projectors
Mounting Hardware....................1........2 x RQ Hardware: Mazda6 / TT (Mini H1 7.0) $30.00
Optional H1 HID Bulbs................1........2 x H1: XB 4500K $30.00
Optional Headlight Sealant..........1........1 x Black: RetroRubber $12.00

Total: $217.00

Unfortunately, the Retro-Quik kit was missing one of these:
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 Old 06-28-2016, 02:58 PM   #10069
 
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Installed the CS hood scoop.



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 Old 06-28-2016, 04:58 PM   #10070
 
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Originally Posted by StevenPThomas View Post
here's a better view in the sun.


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Looks good what paint?

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 Old 06-28-2016, 08:21 PM   #10071
 
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Originally Posted by tmillner View Post
Looks good what paint?

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Used krylon paint I got at lowes. I've never had problems with that type of paint.


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Originally Posted by Adam99l View Post
Installed the CS hood scoop.



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I wanted mine color match at first, but then I caught the carbon fiber fever.



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 Old 06-29-2016, 11:46 AM   #10072
 
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I did my first set of logs for MAF Cal, idle and 3rd gear WOT for my Freektune yesterday.

I took a look at my 3rd gear log and holy shit. It's scary going wot from 2800 RPMSTORE, KR everywhere, and one cell in the log had my HPFP at 1575 psi...should I be worried. I have autotech internals. Don't want something going wrong in the middle of the tune since I've never seen an instance below 1600 for the almost one year I've had the internals.
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 Old 06-29-2016, 01:20 PM   #10073
 
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Originally Posted by csmaan12 View Post
I did my first set of logs for MAF Cal, idle and 3rd gear WOT for my Freektune yesterday.

I took a look at my 3rd gear log and holy shit. It's scary going wot from 2800 RPMSTORE, KR everywhere, and one cell in the log had my HPFP at 1575 psi...should I be worried. I have autotech internals. Don't want something going wrong in the middle of the tune since I've never seen an instance below 1600 for the almost one year I've had the internals.
Do us a favor and post the log here.
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 Old 06-29-2016, 01:22 PM   #10074
 
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Originally Posted by MD1032 View Post
Do us a favor and post the log here.
Here you go.
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 Old 06-29-2016, 07:23 PM   #10075
 
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I had mine dip like that before, we figured it to be the traction control interacting

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 Old 06-29-2016, 07:28 PM   #10076
 
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I wouldn't be too worried about your fuel pressure, but you do record quite a bit of KR. If that is real and repeatable, you need to get it taken care of quick.

I'd check for something loose and making noise in the engine bay, or did you hit lane dividers during the log, or..... Maybe you didn't have your E30 dialed in?
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 Old 06-29-2016, 07:31 PM   #10077
 
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Originally Posted by sheston View Post
I wouldn't be too worried about your fuel pressure, but you do record quite a bit of KR. If that is real and repeatable, you need to get it taken care of quick.

I'd check for something loose and making noise in the engine bay, or did you hit lane dividers during the log, or..... Maybe you didn't have your E30 dialed in?

This is a base map so I'm not worried about it considering it hasn't happened in over a year.
Well I did another pull from 3k today and it didn't happen, the one in the log was under 3k. I'm thinking the ETS shroud is rattling though so I will put some rubber on it just in case.
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 Old 06-29-2016, 07:38 PM   #10078
 
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That could very well be it. I had my aftermarket TMIC aluminum shroud rattling as well at one point. Just removed it :-) Saved the extra weight because racecar
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 Old 06-29-2016, 09:12 PM   #10079
 
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Flawed logic here but I'm ordering the corksport bbk in blue on Friday bc not only do I need new brake fluid and a flush but before I replace the intake turbo and exhaust mani, I should be able to stop.
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 Old 06-30-2016, 12:45 AM   #10080
 
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Originally Posted by sheston View Post
That could very well be it. I had my aftermarket TMIC aluminum shroud rattling as well at one point. Just removed it :-) Saved the extra weight because racecar
Well we shall see what Justin says after he reviews the data. I'm freaking excited because even on a base map the car feels different (in a good way). The turbo seems to pick up quicker, and it actually sounds different spooling on the lower end.

I did another sub 3k WOT today and got 2.02 KR so I'm chocking it up to either rattle, or the car is just doing its job preventing LSPI. Either way I can't wait until the E30 is dialed in to see what it can do. Been wanting a real tune for too long.
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