What did you do to your ride today?

[Highestrich4]

Originally Posted by SnailSpeed3 Over the weekend I managed to get a few things done... Got my JBR rmm swapped out for the Damond mount (still have the tmm and pmm to install, but that will have to wait until I can get some more time to wrench). Also changed out the cabin air filters, they were a little crusty after 42k. I finally got my airlift bags installed too, they've been sitting around for months waiting to go in... Now I need to find time to install the other two Damond mounts, my oil temp/pressure gauge, coolingmist meth kit, 3-bar MAP sensor and 3-port ebcs. Gonna try and budget some time to get everything else installed ASAP, but with my wedding coming up, free time is a luxury I don't quite have...

what do those air lift bags do?

[PurplFox]

Originally Posted by Vansquish Installed a TRS bi-xenon retro-quik kit for my main projectors, but couldn't hook up the solenoids for the bi-xenon actuators because TRS failed to provide all the hardware they were supposed to. Moreover, there were zero, ZE-RO instructions available anywhere, despite a multitude of links saying otherwise. Pretty fucking disappointed and pissed off at TRS, but happy with the light output.

make us a nice write up!
i keep thinking about this or just a lens swap

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by PurplFox make us a nice write up! i keep thinking about this or just a lens swap

I did. You just need to look a couple of posts farther down.

Originally Posted by Vansquish It's worth the switch, I can state that without any equivocation. The lenses are a significant upgrade from the OE projector lenses on their own. The TRS lenses are polished and optically clear. The OEM lenses are smooth, but have "orange peel" and have a slight haze to them. I suspect that if you were really enterprising, you could simply buy some of the TRS 2.5" clear lenses and swap them into the OEM projectors and have massively better light output as well. That said, the TRS Retro-Quik kit for the Mazda6/MS6 is pretty comprehensive (except for the pigtail and instructions that they left out . . . fuckers). The install is really straightforward for the most part. You take the headlamps out of the car, heat up the butyl glue on the headlamps, carefully and slowly pry them open, swap stuff out, put new stuff in, reseal, hook-em up and go. Here's the how-to everyone should have if they're going to do this on an MS6: #1 most important thing: If you order this kit, make sure to specify that you want the MS6 brackets, not the regular 6 brackets. There is apparently a difference! - disconnect the car battery - remove bumper (or as much of it as you need to pop the headlights out - they're attached by four bolts, if memory serves) - unplug the headlamps from the harness, a long screwdriver may help - using a thin screwdriver, remove each of the small steel clamps that hold the lens to the backing of each headlight - using a heat gun (no need to use the oven), heat the butyl glue that holds the lens to the backing of each headlamp. With a butter knife or something similar, slowly work the lens away from the backing. DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING! - unscrew the headlight adjusters all the way - disconnect the D2S socket from the D2S bulb - slide the OEM projectors out of the headlamp housing - unscrew the projector from the OEM bracket - screw the spacers onto the TRS bracket - screw the TRS bracket onto the OEM bracket - screw the TRS projector onto the TRS bracket - attach the new H1 bulb to the TRS projector (wipe the bulb down with the supplied alcohol wipe, but DO NOT WIPE THE PROJECTOR LENS with anything that will leave residue - ask me why . . .) - attach the bulb pigtail to secure the bulb to the projector - attach the bi-xenon pigtail to the projector - run the wires from the bi-xenon pigtail through the extra holes in the rubber dust-cap on the bulb pigtail - attach the connector for the bi-xenon pigtail to the leads on the bi-xenon pigtail - screw the newly-mounted TRS projector back onto the headlamp adjusters - attach the TRS H1 --> D2S adapter to the bulb pigtail, and attach the D2S adapter to the OEM D2S connector - If you're using the bi-xenon pigtail, then connect it up to the hot wire and the ground for the high-beam as well (they suggest soldering or using "Scotch Clamps"). [NOTE] You can run the bi-xenon pigtail inside the headlamp housing from the low beam area to the hi-beam area, or you can use the supplied dust-cap (mentioned above) and cut a hole in each of the dust cap for the low-beam and for the hi-beam and route the bi-xenon pigtail outside the housing in doing so. - Go out to your car and plug both units into their respective plugs on the wiring harness, reconnect the battery and test the units together. - DO NOT test them individually. The imbalance in load across the wiring harness can shorten the lifespan of the bulbs and of the igniters. - Once you're sure that everything is hunky-dory, unplug the battery again, remove the headlamps from the car again, and go back inside with both headlamps to re-seal them. - BUT . . . before you re-seal anything, clean the inside of your plastic headlamp lens. Mine had 142k miles of small amounts of condensation or whatever the fuck was in there, and they had a great layer of light-blocking film on them. I got as much off as I could, but I was in a little bit of a hurry and couldn't get it all. I'll post some pictures of the OEM lenses, and you'll see that the film was on the lenses too. - Seal both headlamps up good and tight. You can probably rely on the OEM butyl glue residue that will be all but fucking impossible to remove, but you can also do as I did and purchase some from TRS with your kit ($12.00, if memory serves). - go reinstall the headlamps, and enjoy your new-found brightness. Edit: Here's what I ordered:................Qty. D2S > AMP Ballast Adapters........1........2 x D2S > AMP Ballast Adapters $15.00 Retro-Quik: Mazda 6 (02-08).......1........2 x Morimoto Mini H1 LHD (7.0) $130.00 Bi-xenon Projectors Mounting Hardware....................1........2 x RQ Hardware: Mazda6 / TT (Mini H1 7.0) $30.00 Optional H1 HID Bulbs................1........2 x H1: XB 4500K $30.00 Optional Headlight Sealant..........1........1 x Black: RetroRubber $12.00 Total: $217.00 Unfortunately, the Retro-Quik kit was missing one of these:

[SnailSpeed3]

Originally Posted by Highestrich4 what do those air lift bags do?

They are a really cheap and easy way to stiffen the rear springs and prevent the car from squatting so much during a launch. That helps keep more of the cars weight on the front wheels which helps A LOT with traction. It may be a placebo effect, but the car feels more planted during hard turns now as well...

[Highestrich4]

Originally Posted by SnailSpeed3 They are a really cheap and easy way to stiffen the rear springs and prevent the car from squatting so much during a launch. That helps keep more of the cars weight on the front wheels which helps A LOT with traction. It may be a placebo effect, but the car feels more planted during hard turns now as well...

you think this well help me from squatting so much that i rub?

[20boxer]

So I just bought a 2010 gen 2. The wife and I have been Wrx owners for about 10 years and took a gamble on the ms3. I have had it about a month.
Intake and motor mount went in about two weeks ago. I then applied window weld to the factory mount, and removed the semi solid lump that made the car vibrate like a cheap motel bed. New homemade mount is awesome.
Installed an AP about two days later.
Installed turbo inlet hose and hpfp internals last Tuesday. Car pulls nice and strong now.
Yesterday I put on the jbr rear sway bar on max setting. Helped with turn in.
Tinted the windows as well.
I originally bought this car as a more comfortable alternative for my wife and new baby. It has quickly turned into another modded up car.
I have a dp waiting for a test pipe and I will leave the stock cat back so this car doesn't get loud like my subarus. Purchased all the mods thru this forum or local mazdaspeed enthusiasts. Good bunch.
Someone please figure out the cure for torque steer. That might keep me from taking it to the next hpde.

[Mmahan3510]

Any 70-80 duro RMM will help tremendously with torque steer. Also get a pro tune and this car will turn into a whole new beast. Good luck and research! Hope you enjoy as much as I do!

Sent from my VIVO XL using Tapatalk

[alden]

just finished installing a magnaflow catback! so i can add that to the list I've began building about 8 months ago. So far I've got hpfp, AP, cobb sri, catless test pipe, jbr 80 rmm, corksport lowering springs, now this cutback, and a OTS+ freestone!

hopefully a short catless downpipe next to finish off the exhaust! would love to hear any recommendations for next possible parts!

[blackms3_71]

Originally Posted by SnailSpeed3 They are a really cheap and easy way to stiffen the rear springs and prevent the car from squatting so much during a launch. That helps keep more of the cars weight on the front wheels which helps A LOT with traction. It may be a placebo effect, but the car feels more planted during hard turns now as well...

Do u have a link for them

[20boxer]

Originally Posted by Mmahan3510 Any 70-80 duro RMM will help tremendously with torque steer. Also get a pro tune and this car will turn into a whole new beast. Good luck and research! Hope you enjoy as much as I do! Sent from my VIVO XL using Tapatalk

I have a jbr 80 and it made the whole car shake at idle. I am not sure what window weld hardens to, but it's way stiffer than stock. Pro tune is coming after I finish bolting on.

[MS3Shadow]

Originally Posted by 20boxer I have a jbr 80 and it made the whole car shake at idle. I am not sure what window weld hardens to, but it's way stiffer than stock. Pro tune is coming after I finish bolting on.

If you want less vibes, you maybe consider trying the Damond RMM

sent from my Nexus 6P

[Jonb82]

Originally Posted by alden just finished installing a magnaflow catback! so i can add that to the list I've began building about 8 months ago. So far I've got hpfp, AP, cobb sri, catless test pipe, jbr 80 rmm, corksport lowering springs, now this cutback, and a OTS+ freestone! hopefully a short catless downpipe next to finish off the exhaust! would love to hear any recommendations for next possible parts!

Springs on stock struts? How are they holding up? Just threw money on TBE and still want to get rid of that wheel gap soon.


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[toby11797]

I washed seagull crap off mine.

[Jonb82]

Originally Posted by 20boxer I have a jbr 80 and it made the whole car shake at idle. I am not sure what window weld hardens to, but it's way stiffer than stock. Pro tune is coming after I finish bolting on.

$50 for an OTS+ tune specialized for your mods is well worth it in the mean time. Waiting to get exhaust in and then dropping $250 for full tune (contemplating the extra $50 for a E85 with it). If I'm not mistaken a couple tuners give discounts towards the full tune if you go this route. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.



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[tmillner]

If you're on stock turbo with a e85 should be 250

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[Jonb82]

Originally Posted by tmillner If you're on stock turbo with a e85 should be 250 Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

*Edited. Thank you


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[tmillner]

Who are you going with?

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[Jonb82]

Originally Posted by tmillner Who are you going with? Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

Stratified


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[ranviper]

I got good news. Thought I had a wheel bearing going, turns out the weights just fell off a wheel, so it's unbalanced. I'm happy to only throw 10 bucks at it.

[Reddie1337]

Started buying some parts today, first was plugs and compression. 179 psi was the lowest of the 4. Then on my way home got a CP-e CAI and TIH. Then tomorrow is AP, all 3 mounts, and HPFP.

Not a cheap week.

[alden]

Originally Posted by Jonb82 Springs on stock struts? How are they holding up? Just threw money on TBE and still want to get rid of that wheel gap soon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

yessir! i live in an area with terrible roads. Canada winters really beat them down, and i have no issues at all! absolutely no complaints, other than the ride is obviously a bit more rough.

[Jonb82]

Originally Posted by alden yessir! i live in an area with terrible roads. Canada winters really beat them down, and i have no issues at all! absolutely no complaints, other than the ride is obviously a bit more rough.

Thanks, good to know. I still might just save up and do springs and struts at the same time though. Or go BT. Or buy a one legged Mexican hooker. Well see...


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[alden]

Originally Posted by Jonb82 Thanks, good to know. I still might just save up and do springs and struts at the same time though. Or go BT. Or buy a one legged Mexican hooker. Well see... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OU, the ladder sounds not bad, and it would be the cheapest option im sure! But, springs and struts at the same time makes a lot of sense, but i decided to be cheap. lol

[SnailSpeed3]

Originally Posted by Highestrich4 you think this well help me from squatting so much that i rub?

I can't say for sure since I don't really know your car or how bad the rub issue is... That being said though, the end of my block has a crazy steep hill that you have to turn up/down to enter/leave the neighborhood and before the bags, my rear mudflaps would scrape like crazy when I turned up the hill, but since installing the airbags the flaps barely scrape and if I take the turn easy enough they won't scrape at all.

For the price though, it may be worth it to just get them and give it a try and see what you think.

Originally Posted by blackms3_71 Do u have a link for them

I got them off Amazon https://www.amazon.com/LIFT-80754-10...tofgamonlco-20

There's also a few threads floating around of people who have installed them, the original thread I got the idea from is this one, Uhhhh AirLift 1000 second round but the pictures in the thread are long since lost to the interwebs (not that they're really necessary for install).

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by Reddie1337 Then tomorrow is AP, all 3 mounts, and HPFP. Not a cheap week.

Enjoy not being able to hear yourself think and discovering every single rattle your interior can produce.

[MS3Shadow]

Originally Posted by Vansquish Enjoy not being able to hear yourself think and discovering every single rattle your interior can produce.

i have 2 mounts and it's not that loud. i don't know about adding the third one would produce.

[Jonb82]

Originally Posted by Vansquish Enjoy not being able to hear yourself think and discovering every single rattle your interior can produce.

I have the CS RMM + Damond TMM and it isn't as bad as everyone else's I've been reading. That being said; you can definitely hear your tranny and throw out bearing more. Freaked me the fuck out for a couple weeks. Kept thinking what the hell is that new noise? Why is it vibrating while decelerating through certain RPMs? But in the end love that. Wife has a IS 200t F sport and that car is boring as hell to drive. The feedback in the Speed with the mounts is worth it in the end. Just my $.02

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by MS3Shadow i have 2 mounts and it's not that loud. i don't know about adding the third one would produce.

Originally Posted by Jonb82 I have the CS RMM + Damond TMM and it isn't as bad as everyone else's I've been reading. That being said; you can definitely hear your tranny and throw out bearing more. Freaked me the fuck out for a couple weeks. Kept thinking what the hell is that new noise? Why is it vibrating while decelerating through certain RPMs? But in the end love that. Wife has a IS 200t F sport and that car is boring as hell to drive. The feedback in the Speed with the mounts is worth it in the end. Just my $.02

I keep forgetting that you guys don't have nearly as much drivetrain NVH as we MS6-guys do from the outset. Even a single high-duro RMM is enough to bring out every rattle in my interior. Hence my switching back to the R6 from the JBR RMM.

[MS3Shadow]

Originally Posted by Vansquish I keep forgetting that you guys don't have nearly as much drivetrain NVH as we MS6-guys do from the outset. Even a single high-duro RMM is enough to bring out every rattle in my interior. Hence my switching back to the R6 from the JBR RMM.

and also Damond doesn't have a full set for the MS6 either.

[sheston]

If something in the interior rattles, that's just a sign that you need to pull it out and save the weight :-) because racecar

I just added a JBR 88duro TMM, with an ACT 6 puck prolite flywheel, and that makes a lot of noise. Not interior noise, but motor and gear and clutch noise. Can't wait to add a decent PMM, it's my birthday this month

[csmaan12]

Originally Posted by SnailSpeed3 I can't say for sure since I don't really know your car or how bad the rub issue is... That being said though, the end of my block has a crazy steep hill that you have to turn up/down to enter/leave the neighborhood and before the bags, my rear mudflaps would scrape like crazy when I turned up the hill, but since installing the airbags the flaps barely scrape and if I take the turn easy enough they won't scrape at all. For the price though, it may be worth it to just get them and give it a try and see what you think. I got them off Amazon https://www.amazon.com/LIFT-80754-10...tofgamonlco-20 There's also a few threads floating around of people who have installed them, the original thread I got the idea from is this one, Uhhhh AirLift 1000 second round but the pictures in the thread are long since lost to the interwebs (not that they're really necessary for install).

Damn for $86 this is worth a try....especially if it stops rubbing. My rear tires are getting very angry at me when I go over dips and sharp bumps.

[Reddie1337]

Got the RMM, hpfp, hollowed muffler, and CP-e intake installed today. Kinda disappointed in the hollowed muffler, thought it would make way more noise. Anyways, everything else is good. Have to marry the AP tomorrow, and good to go!


-Reddie

[AwAfrican]

Originally Posted by Reddie1337 Got the RMM, hpfp, hollowed muffler, and CP-e intake installed today. Kinda disappointed in the hollowed muffler, thought it would make way more noise. Anyways, everything else is good. Have to marry the AP tomorrow, and good to go! -Reddie

Nice man solid night! AP takes all of 5 min lol

[csmaan12]

Had a scare in the last few days. Car running normal again so I did some more WOT logs and sent them over to Justin which was fun.

[blackms3_71]

C.s battery box installed. Had to do a good amount of work to get it in. Slotted holes. Dermaled the ecu door closes to the intake.

Deff not worth the $170. I didnt buy that price. But it does clean up the engine bay other the ecu on the fuse cover.

[AwAfrican]

@blackms3_71; I agree CS box is definitely not worth the price they charge I had to do even more cutting when I did mine. Not to mention the V1 bat box doesn't have the removable front cover so battery removal is a b1tch . However it does look nice

[Reddie1337]

Originally Posted by AwAfrican Nice man solid night! AP takes all of 5 min lol

Yeah. It said half hour, and it was already 9:55. I just wanted to get home, spent all day at the shop.


-Reddie

[blackms3_71]

Originally Posted by AwAfrican @blackms3_71; I agree CS box is definitely not worth the price they charge I had to do even more cutting when I did mine. Not to mention the V1 bat box doesn't have the removable front cover so battery removal is a b1tch . However it does look nice

I am glad it atleast looks nice lol. A shame i still had to mod it to get it to work.

[silentdoer]

I had the freon filled up on my car's A/C.

[csmaan12]

Originally Posted by SnailSpeed3 I can't say for sure since I don't really know your car or how bad the rub issue is... That being said though, the end of my block has a crazy steep hill that you have to turn up/down to enter/leave the neighborhood and before the bags, my rear mudflaps would scrape like crazy when I turned up the hill, but since installing the airbags the flaps barely scrape and if I take the turn easy enough they won't scrape at all. For the price though, it may be worth it to just get them and give it a try and see what you think. I got them off Amazon https://www.amazon.com/LIFT-80754-10...tofgamonlco-20 There's also a few threads floating around of people who have installed them, the original thread I got the idea from is this one, Uhhhh AirLift 1000 second round but the pictures in the thread are long since lost to the interwebs (not that they're really necessary for install).

Free same day delivery from amazon...yup I just ordered these. Worth a shot.