What did you do to your ride today?

[anavrinIV]

Originally Posted by MD1032 Cornering is the PSS's party trick. No other street tire can touch them there.

define "street tire"

[MD1032]

Originally Posted by anavrinIV define "street tire"

Treadwear in the 300's-ish, usually have decent hydroplaning resistance, street comfort. Most of the stuff in the Tire Rack "Max performance" category is your summer street option for these cars. Once you get into the "extreme performance" category (200's ish treadwear) you get lots o' noise, significantly shorter life, not quite as much hydroplaning resistance, etc.

[LowFlyin]

Dipped my stock wheels. I like it

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[CWP23]

I installed my AP and a stratified flash tune the other day, and a tow hook license plate mount just now. Looks great except for the holes in my grill.

[StevenPThomas]

Originally Posted by CWP23 I installed my AP and a stratified flash tune the other day, and a tow hook license plate mount just now. Looks great except for the holes in my grill.

That's the exact reason I never put my front plate on.


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[CWP23]

Originally Posted by StevenPThomas That's the exact reason I never put my front plate on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cops in BC are pretty uncool about not having a front plate unfortunately.

[knocturnal]

Applied DEI reflect-a-gold to the fire wall heat shield and parts of the CP-E TMIC

[mang]

Originally Posted by SpeedBen I noticed a huge degradation in terms or ride quality over the past few days so I knew something was up...dropped the car at the dealer (still under warranty, I have 70k km, around 43.5k miles): Both struts were blown in the back (The roads are a disaster where I go) Important leak with the valve cover, will be replaced under warranty. Flush transmission oil Aligment Oil change Break maintenance Tire rotation

I think I may have blown rear struts too from hitting a huge pot hole.

Did you notice any noises when going over bumps/dips in the rear? I'm hearing a thud/pop. The struts don't seem to be leaking either though, but from what I hear, blown struts don't necessarily have to leak.

[SpeedBen]

Originally Posted by mang I think I may have blown rear struts too from hitting a huge pot hole. Did you notice any noises when going over bumps/dips in the rear? I'm hearing a thud/pop. The struts don't seem to be leaking either though, but from what I hear, blown struts don't necessarily have to leak.

It started doing a minor pop over big bumps then noticeably went worse on anything but straight and new road. The rear started to dance on uneven roads / old asphalt patched at highway speed.

I got fixed today, everything is back to normal and feel much better.

[sheston]

Wow, talk about race car.

I just added a passenger side JBR stiff motor mount, to the driver side one I added when I changed the clutch and already had a stiffie in the back.

I thought the drivers side added noise and vibes. The passenger side one adds more and almost too much, even for me :-)

Hope it breaks in a little

[blackms3_71]

Originally Posted by sheston Wow, talk about race car. I just added a passenger side JBR stiff motor mount, to the driver side one I added when I changed the clutch and already had a stiffie in the back. I thought the drivers side added noise and vibes. The passenger side one adds more and almost too much, even for me :-) Hope it breaks in a little

Its sounds like your valves are riding shot gun lol

[Oshiguru]

Originally Posted by CWP23 Cops in BC are pretty uncool about not having a front plate unfortunately.

I drove my 3s for two years without a front plate until I got caught


Side note. I installed a JBR RSB today at the tightest settings and I don't feel a difference during hard turning around the city. There's an autox event im attending tomorrow so im excited to see the difference from stock to thick.

I do have a feeling these flimsy brackets will snap soon, but i got the bar for a steal used

[mawsdang]

Took my Mazda to the dealership yesterday. Mazda is going to replace my drivers seat.

[666barry]

Finally got an alignment yesterday, feels so much better.
Tomorrow I'm finally getting around to some more maintenance...
On the agenda:
Valve cleaning I said I was going to do last month
Thermostat change
PCV valve change
Fuel rail bolt swap for studs
Toyota diesel seals
EGR delete
IM gasket change
Turbo banjo bolt swap
Compression test
Boost leak test
Then time to wash the car. Hopefully I don't cry tomorrow

[blackms3_71]

Dont even bother with toyo seals

[MS3Shadow]

Better just get those Corksport (Tokay) Seals.

sent from my Nexus 6P

[666barry]

Well I have the Toyota ones on hand and figure anything should be better than the 130k stock seals


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[Nel Mazdaspeed]

Originally Posted by 666barry Well I have the Toyota ones on hand and figure anything should be better than the 130k stock seals Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Safe seal are reusable from what ive heard... and a little cheaper (-$5). So if and when youre doind a build on the block it will pay off.
Im dealing with paying another $200 for seals now because CS seals arent reusable and they've not even been in for a full year...smh
Going with safe seal now :-)

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[.Slug]

swapped out my original plugs for some NGK 3787 @ 51k miles. No more rough idle. Yay! How do you think the old plugs look?

[CharlieD]

Originally Posted by .Slug swapped out my original plugs for some NGK 3787 @ 51k miles. No more rough idle. Yay! How do you think the old plugs look?

Stock heat range ?

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[.Slug]

Originally Posted by CharlieD Stock heat range ? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Yes.

[ToyCop]

Yesterday. Damond TMM went in. Changed oil and added a easy drain valve. Changed manual transmission fluid and added a dimple drain plug. Rotated tires. Exciting stuff.

[blackms3_71]

Originally Posted by Nel Mazdaspeed Safe seal are reusable from what ive heard... and a little cheaper (-$5). So if and when youre doind a build on the block it will pay off. Im dealing with paying another $200 for seals now because CS seals arent reusable and they've not even been in for a full year...smh Going with safe seal now :-) Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

I would clean and reuse

[anavrinIV]

Originally Posted by .Slug swapped out my original plugs for some NGK 3787 @ 51k miles. No more rough idle. Yay! How do you think the old plugs look?

those look just about perfect.

I swapped my plugs on Saturday, originals made it almost 60k and I never had a hiccup with them. Put in a set of NGK laser iridiums.

Also changed my horn. I drove through a lightly flooded highway a few weeks back (in the dark and heavy rain, didn't see it until I was in it) and ruined my horn, only thing that was affected. Put in a set of Wolo twin power electric horns; much happier with the dual tone. Don't sound as good as my old long horns (air powered) but they should last longer.

[.Slug]

Installed CS RMM inserts last night. Compared to a CPE-Stage 2, there are only 1/4 of the idle vibes. No added vibes while cruising or decelerating. Initial clutch slip to get the car going has a rougher feel, but still about a 1/4 of the vibes I experienced from the CPE-Stage 2. There is still pretty much the same engine growl on startup that I experienced with the CPE-stage 2. Which is awesome.

The butt dyno feels a bit more pep on initial acceleration through any gear. The engine feels like there is about 2/3rds less movement on shifts and throttle blips. This is enough to satisfy anyone who just wants to rid the normal drive experience of the floppy shifts/engine movement in this car.

I've been constantly aggravated, since I bought this car a few months ago, by poor shifting performance and transmission feel in this car. So far the inserts offer the best trade-off between transmitted gear/shift noise and improvement in shift feel over a full RMM replacement. I feel like my transmission is shifting right in the pocket now without transmitting too much cringe inducing noise, at least for my liking. But with this said, I've only driven the car in 74 degreeish weather and the shifts get real shitty at higher and lower temps. This afternoon should be a good litmus test.

For the daily driver, who wont be rampaging through gears like a 600lb gorilla, the inserts are probably more than enough for satisfaction in engine movement control and comfort. If I was making more power, I'd probably go back to the CPE-Stage 2, but for now, these are great. I'm sure they will loosen up slightly after being worn, but I'm not expecting too much loosening of the feel because I really don't drive the car very hard or pound through gears.

The install was more annoying than putting in a full replacement. The inserts make stuffing the stock RMM back in the car a miserable chore for anyone laying on their back with the car on jack stands. I had to get creative and put a cloth on the end of a socket wrench extension, stick it in the open side of the RMM and pound it in with a hammer. Then wrestle the damn thing to turn it and line it up perfectly to get the bolts in and line up the transmission bracket completely. I did this install/unistall 3 times with the CPE-Stage 2 and it was never such a pain in the ass. The inserts add about a little over a 1/4" of thickness to the stock RMM.

For a regular Joe, who doesn't wrench very often, a job that took me 30 minutes with the CPE-Stage 2, ended up taking me 2 1/2 frustrating hours with the inserts and I've got bloody knuckles, a bruised back and a sore neck. Therefore, for the regular Joe, I recommend only taking your own time to install these if you have a lift. No lift? Save yourself the pain and anguish and have a shop do it, unless you love frustrating, soul sucking, time wasting challenges.

[anavrinIV]

Originally Posted by .Slug Installed CS RMM inserts last night. Compared to a CPE-Stage 2, there are only 1/4 of the idle vibes. No added vibes while cruising or decelerating. Initial clutch slip to get the car going has a rougher feel, but still about a 1/4 of the vibes I experienced from the CPE-Stage 2. There is still pretty much the same engine growl on startup that I experienced with the CPE-stage 2. Which is awesome. The butt dyno feels a bit more pep on initial acceleration through any gear. The engine feels like there is about 2/3rds less movement on shifts and throttle blips. This is enough to satisfy anyone who just wants to rid the normal drive experience of the floppy shifts/engine movement in this car. I've been constantly aggravated, since I bought this car a few months ago, by poor shifting performance and transmission feel in this car. So far the inserts offer the best trade-off between transmitted gear/shift noise and improvement in shift feel over a full RMM replacement. I feel like my transmission is shifting right in the pocket now without transmitting too much cringe inducing noise, at least for my liking. But with this said, I've only driven the car in 74 degreeish weather and the shifts get real shitty at higher and lower temps. This afternoon should be a good litmus test. For the daily driver, who wont be rampaging through gears like a 600lb gorilla, the inserts are probably more than enough for satisfaction in engine movement control and comfort. If I was making more power, I'd probably go back to the CPE-Stage 2, but for now, these are great. I'm sure they will loosen up slightly after being worn, but I'm not expecting too much loosening of the feel because I really don't drive the car very hard or pound through gears. The install was more annoying than putting in a full replacement. The inserts make stuffing the stock RMM back in the car a miserable chore for anyone laying on their back with the car on jack stands. I had to get creative and put a cloth on the end of a socket wrench extension, stick it in the open side of the RMM and pound it in with a hammer. Then wrestle the damn thing to turn it and line it up perfectly to get the bolts in and line up the transmission bracket completely. I did this install/unistall 3 times with the CPE-Stage 2 and it was never such a pain in the ass. The inserts add about a little over a 1/4" of thickness to the stock RMM. For a regular Joe, who doesn't wrench very often, a job that took me 30 minutes with the CPE-Stage 2, ended up taking me 2 1/2 frustrating hours with the inserts and I've got bloody knuckles, a bruised back and a sore neck. Therefore, for the regular Joe, I recommend only taking your own time to install these if you have a lift. No lift? Save yourself the pain and anguish and have a shop do it, unless you love frustrating, soul sucking, time wasting challenges.

Sounds like a lot of work for a reduction in performance.

[.Slug]

Originally Posted by anavrinIV Sounds like a lot of work for a reduction in performance.

Well... if you have a lift instead of jack stands, no, the install would probably take closer to 15 to 20.

Not sure what you mean by reduction in performance?

There is enough improvement over stock for a person wanting a comfy daily driver with no power mods to have less engine flop and better shifting to justify purchasing them.

Improvement over a full replacement RMM? No most definitely not.

I recommend these for any stock daily driver who doesn't need a full RMM replacement.

[csmaan12]

Finally got around to swapping the passenger axle with a used genwon axle I got for cheap. Didn't think I could do it in 2 hours, but damn. No more grease spray and im so happy.

For those trying to do the same. Genwon axle fits the pu perfectly. Only differences are the big weighted heavy part is a tiny bit smaller, and the tip is not fully threaded, there's like a half inch of nothing to smash the axle nut on. The pu axle is fully threaded. Threads in perfectly fine. Removal is a pain, having to remove the lower ball joint, other than that a little prying and it comes right out, and the other axle goes right in, dare I say easier than removal.

For those having the same grease spraying problem, if you can find a good, used genwon axle it's more worth than replacing a boot for almost the same price.

[6onSpeed]

Installed the new greedy FV bov in recirc mode.
Damn this valve is nice.
It's not loud but has a nice crisp vent.
It has this float valve tech with dual springs.
Makes it super easy to dial in bc even on the softest setting the valve will stay closed at idle.
So you just need to increase spring setting if your not hitting boost targets.
I didn't think it was going to be as nice as it is so I thought I would share it with everyone.
Here's a link that explains how it works.
GReddy
image.jpeg

[csmaan12]

Originally Posted by 6onSpeed Installed the new greedy FV bov in recirc mode. Damn this valve is nice. It's not loud but has a nice crisp vent. It has this float valve tech with dual springs. Makes it super easy to dial in bc even on the softest setting the valve will stay closed at idle. So you just need to increase spring setting if your not hitting boost targets. I didn't think it was going to be as nice as it is so I thought I would share it with everyone. Here's a link that explains how it works. GReddy Attachment 227697

Sound clip please. Curious to see how it sounds. Seems like you can run VTA with no problems too.

[CharlieD]

Originally Posted by csmaan12 Sound clip please. Curious to see how it sounds. Seems like you can run VTA with no problems too.

Sound clip is in attachment


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[6onSpeed]

Yup there is a sound clip in the attachment.
I may try at some point to run it vta just to see how it sounds but having no cats I would bet I would get some exhaust pops between shifts

[CMajor]

Today I finished putting my JMF IM back on after trying to rule that out for my vacuum leak...no luck unfortunately. In more exciting news, I uninstalled my 5858 and installed my 6266 with the help of some friends last weekend.

New (to me) 6266 on the left, old 5858 on the right

[BLKspd5]

Changed the oil today and somehow missed that the old filter seal was stuck on the motor and doubled up on seals with the new filter. Spewed oil alllllll over when I started it. Live and learn boys

[sheston]

Not today, but this past weekend, found out what the limit for a 3 bar MAP sensor is :-)

30.3 psi. Replaced my stock boost controller with a Cobb 3 port EBCS. Thought I could get away without tuning since I was pushing my K04 way too hard. Found out because of fuel cut that there is still lots of room in my K04 tune.

Woo Hoo! 10% increase in power, here I come. Can't wait to post my new Vdyno chart and 60-100 mph new times

[AveryPlaysBass]

Tire rotation and alignment along with a coolant flush and changed my trans fluid to the Ford stuff. Shift feel as definitely improved although I still think my E focus mount is shot to shit.

[Finchee]

Originally Posted by sheston Not today, but this past weekend, found out what the limit for a 3 bar MAP sensor is :-) 30.3 psi. Replaced my stock boost controller with a Cobb 3 port EBCS. Thought I could get away without tuning since I was pushing my K04 way too hard. Found out because of fuel cut that there is still lots of room in my K04 tune. Woo Hoo! 10% increase in power, here I come. Can't wait to post my new Vdyno chart and 60-100 mph new times

You hit 30.3 psi on the stock K04?

[PurplFox]

^ via boost spike, from not setting up the three port because he wishes to blow his motor

[sheston]

Not really a spike. I was tuned to 27 psi with some onset overshoot to a little over 28 psi. And yes with the K04 and some flow mods :-). With the 3-port, I hit 30.3 from around 3000 rpm til past 4000 rpm, when I got off the throttle due to fuel cut. I didn't think the 3 port would do that much because I run a lot of 100% WGDC.

I did blow a rod, so I have a built motor. Just trying to exercise it. If I went BT I would be shooting for these levels or higher. I will say, I didn't get any KR during the runs I've logged.

[PurplFox]

3 port makes a big difference in over all boost control. I can only imagine the pre bat temps on much over 26 on a ko4.
Nice on no kr, I need to plan for a build soon