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 Old 09-25-2016, 01:12 PM   #10361
 
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Originally Posted by sheston View Post
Speaking of which, has anyone tried painting their rims black so they don't care about brake dust? I've seen ads for that peel off paint.....
I was at a gas station in Vancouver and they had an impromptu kiosk setup for something called fw-1 fast wax - claimed it was great for windows, body grime and keeping brake dust off rims. I declined but its a carnuba based spray foam which in theory should help the wheel shed dust when sprayed off (with a power washer probably).
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 Old 09-25-2016, 01:19 PM   #10362
 
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I had my dealership, who isnt a stealership, install the DM Power Steering cooler since my PS hardline needed to be replaced and why pay $550CAD when a $90USd part fixes it and replaces the rusty oe cooler. Also had new stoptech pads installed and had them remove my rear seat brace as I installed that myself with the car seated on the ground and the shop reinstalled it before it was dropped from the lift. I asked them for that b/c when I was having my fenders rolled, the body shop used some laser frame alignment and my right rear was slightly out from the left. So this brownie will blame himself for that.
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Corksport: RMM/TIP/FSB/Tubes/Strut Tower JBR: 70a Sides/SSP SURE: Dreadnaught/Juggernaught/Anchors/FlowM6
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 Old 09-27-2016, 08:49 AM   #10363
 
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Had a set of Hankook Ventus K120 Evo2s install and am not pleased.

Upon setting off from the tire shop I noticed dramatic tire pull. Contacted Tire Rack and I have to do a series of tire rotations to determine which tire(s) are at fault to do an exchange.

Such a hassle, I should have purchased a higher quality tire..
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 Old 09-27-2016, 08:54 AM   #10364
 
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Originally Posted by texasboy21 View Post
Had a set of Hankook Ventus K120 Evo2s install and am not pleased.

Upon setting off from the tire shop I noticed dramatic tire pull. Contacted Tire Rack and I have to do a series of tire rotations to determine which tire(s) are at fault to do an exchange.

Such a hassle, I should have purchased a higher quality tire..

That's good to know because I was looking at some alternatives to my RE970's but I guess I'll stick with the same tire. Thanks!
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 Old 09-27-2016, 09:01 AM   #10365
 
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Originally Posted by greez View Post
That's good to know because I was looking at some alternatives to my RE970's but I guess I'll stick with the same tire. Thanks!
Ive had several sets of the previous generation Ventus K111s, but this is the first time on the 120s.
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 Old 09-27-2016, 09:05 AM   #10366
 
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Originally Posted by texasboy21 View Post
Ive had several sets of the previous generation Ventus K111s, but this is the first time on the 120s.
They will bubble before than...
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 Old 09-27-2016, 09:07 AM   #10367
 
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Originally Posted by sleeveless View Post
They will bubble before than...
wut?
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 Old 09-27-2016, 09:14 AM   #10368
 
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So on the ms6, I've done alot in the last week, I installed switchbacks in the front, leds in the rear turn signals, pcv, PS pressure line, Plasti dipped some 2nd gen wheels and put them on, led 6000k fogs, pressed in an out straight arm bushings and installed a mechanical boost gauge. Next to do will be to remove my driver side seat cover and sow it and I will be doing front sway bar bushings and links after work today. It's alot of work rebuilding a car ground up

Originally Posted by texasboy21 View Post
wut?
My experience with hankook ventuses are that they are very prone to bubbling in the sidewalls. I stay away from them
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 Old 09-27-2016, 03:42 PM   #10369
 
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Originally Posted by texasboy21 View Post
Had a set of Hankook Ventus K120 Evo2s install and am not pleased.

Upon setting off from the tire shop I noticed dramatic tire pull. Contacted Tire Rack and I have to do a series of tire rotations to determine which tire(s) are at fault to do an exchange.

Such a hassle, I should have purchased a higher quality tire..
If it makes you feel any better my Pilot Super Sports had one tire with the same issue. Went through the same process with Discount Tire.
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 Old 09-28-2016, 08:47 PM   #10370
 
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Originally Posted by Ten2Four View Post
If it makes you feel any better my Pilot Super Sports had one tire with the same issue. Went through the same process with Discount Tire.
I'm starting to think it's not the tires. I put the fronts on the rear and still have the same issue (granted that's not the process Tire Rack details, this was done before their instructions were sent).

In neutral just coasting the car tracks straight. In gear and on the gas it'll pull right. Under hard acceleration I can feel the wheel fighting/pulling left and right. Under hard braking the car squirms left and right.

None of this occurred prior to the new tires.

One thing I noticed today, none of the wheels have weights yet I was invoiced for balancing.

Any advise from anyone? I'm very frustrated and my speed is handicapped.
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 Old 09-29-2016, 08:31 AM   #10371
 
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Originally Posted by texasboy21 View Post
I'm starting to think it's not the tires. I put the fronts on the rear and still have the same issue (granted that's not the process Tire Rack details, this was done before their instructions were sent).

In neutral just coasting the car tracks straight. In gear and on the gas it'll pull right. Under hard acceleration I can feel the wheel fighting/pulling left and right. Under hard braking the car squirms left and right.

None of this occurred prior to the new tires.

One thing I noticed today, none of the wheels have weights yet I was invoiced for balancing.

Any advise from anyone? I'm very frustrated and my speed is handicapped.
I would tend to agree that it's not the tires. Also, an out of balance wheel would cause vibrations that would increase with speed irrelevant to load. Front tire out of balance, the wheel will shimmy. A rear tire out of balance, you feel the shimmy in the seat.

Imo, take it to an alignment/suspension shop and have it checked out. If it pulls under light acceleration and straight under no acceleration (excluding hard accel torque steer), then it might mean something loose.

It's possible that the previous tires were good enough to "mask" the issue some.
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 Old 09-29-2016, 12:04 PM   #10372
 
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Just put on some cheap "Mazdaspeed" seat belt covers from China off of eBay. No more seatbelt hickeys.
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 Old 10-01-2016, 09:40 AM   #10373
 
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I haven't posted on here for a little while but I have done quite a bit!! New wheels (temp for the rest of this year) painted front bumper roof rack and in the process of finishing up wire tuck..... got a new front lip also thanks to the raccoon who blew up my front bumper..
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 Old 10-01-2016, 10:38 PM   #10374
 
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Just picked up this Yamaha r6
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 Old 10-02-2016, 05:40 PM   #10375
 
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Had some good weather here in Dallas this past week, so had the windows down, heard my brakes screeching....

Pads were gone and rotors had quite a lip on them. So much so that the metal backer on the pads was rubbing the ridge on the rotors and making quite the racket. Replaced them with another set of yellow stuffs and high carbon blanks.

This is the first car I've had to replace rotors on. But now I know what everyone is talking about the rotors being a replaceable item with the pads.....
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 Old 10-02-2016, 09:00 PM   #10376
 
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Default What did you do to your ride today?



Installed the Southbend stage 3 over the weekend. Enjoyed it, but hope I won't have to do it again for a long time. We got creative with a motorcycle jack from HF and used that as a tranny jack. In other news, my back hurts


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 Old 10-03-2016, 05:48 PM   #10377
 
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I looked and looked for a cheap tranny jack when I did mine. After I was done, HF had a 450 lbs trans jack, 4 wheels, racket wrench height adjustment, tilt plate and ratchet strap for $70or 80. Went ahead and bought it for next time :-)
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 Old 10-03-2016, 06:44 PM   #10378
 
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Originally Posted by Jonb82 View Post


Installed the Southbend stage 3 over the weekend. Enjoyed it, but hope I won't have to do it again for a long time. We got creative with a motorcycle jack from HF and used that as a tranny jack. In other news, my back hurts


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Driving impressions please. This is my future clutch. Been sitting under my bed for the longest.
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 Old 10-04-2016, 04:11 AM   #10379
 
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Originally Posted by sheston View Post
I looked and looked for a cheap tranny jack when I did mine. After I was done, HF had a 450 lbs trans jack, 4 wheels, racket wrench height adjustment, tilt plate and ratchet strap for $70or 80. Went ahead and bought it for next time :-)


Unfortunately they didn't have any tranny jacks on sale that day. We were looking for an adapter at least but didn't see one. Probably would have made it a little easier


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 Old 10-04-2016, 04:20 AM   #10380
 
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Originally Posted by 5doorsoffury View Post
Driving impressions please. This is my future clutch. Been sitting under my bed for the longest.


vrooom pst click, vrooooooom psst click, VRAAAMMMM PSSH click, VRAAAAAAAAAMMMMMMM PSSHHHH


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 Old 10-04-2016, 04:28 AM   #10381
 
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Default What did you do to your ride today?

Originally Posted by 5doorsoffury View Post
Driving impressions please. This is my future clutch. Been sitting under my bed for the longest.


Sorry for my last post, it's 7am and couldn't help myself. Clutch is stiffer. I have about 100 non highway miles on it. Don't be afraid of the noise when you first start it up. I think it's a small metal clearness working itself out. Make sure you follow torque specs on install and have a torque wrench that goes to 118 ft lbs. Engagement is about half way down on pedal feel and I'm still getting used to it. Stocker might have been the same but with the added stiffness you notice it more. The mother fucker does grab. I wish I could say more but keeping the rpms under 3k for break in that's all I have for now. But it does feel legit

Edit: also depending on mileage you might want to go ahead and grab some blank rotors and pads as well. Noticed a lip on the edges. I have about 70k so close to the time for a change. I still have life left on the pads, but might as well get it all done in one step since they're out. I'll edit more if anything else comes to mind

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 Old 10-04-2016, 04:46 AM   #10382
 
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How was the fitment with the bell housing? Some people report a small amount of grinding was needed due to variations in the cast of the tranny.

Do you have the old style or the new style slave cylinder? The red boot is flush with the mounting bolt with the old one. The new one has some space between the bolt and red cap. Some of the old slaves pop.

South bend clutch reccomends 118ft.lbs on there FW with oem bolts or did you use the arp upgraded FW bolts with the extra threads? I thought it was more like 80-90ft.lbs.
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 Old 10-04-2016, 04:47 AM   #10383
 
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Originally Posted by Jonb82 View Post
I wish I could say more but keeping the rpms under 3k for break in that's all I have for now. But it does feel legit
Is that really their break-in instructions? I find that hard to believe.
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 Old 10-04-2016, 04:50 AM   #10384
 
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Originally Posted by MD1032 View Post
Is that really their break-in instructions? I find that hard to believe.
I believe he means no shifting above 3k. No hard slips high rpm makes it easy to slip a lot compared to low rpm.
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 Old 10-04-2016, 04:54 AM   #10385
 
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Default What did you do to your ride today?

Originally Posted by 5doorsoffury View Post
How was the fitment with the bell housing? Some people report a small amount of grinding was needed due to variations in the cast of the tranny.

Do you have the old style or the new style slave cylinder? The red boot is flush with the mounting bolt with the old one. The new one has some space between the bolt and red cap. Some of the old slaves pop.

South bend clitch reccomends 118ft.lbs on there FW with oem bolts or did you use the arp upgraded FW bokts with the extra threads?


Honestly I don't recall. From my research if it was going to pop, it would have done it relatively quick. Mine is a 2012, so I believe I have the new one. I could be wrong. I replaced the bolts with the new oem ones supplied by Edgeauto

Edit: to answer your question on the bell housing; I contacted edge about the bell housing issues in the past. They said that the earlier problems have been addressed. But I believe there was still a small amount of contact. Nothing major though. It wasn't a loud noise, just noticeable for about a minute

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Originally Posted by MD1032 View Post
Is that really their break-in instructions? I find that hard to believe.


Says to drive "normal", keeping rpms under 3k. Do you have a different experience?


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 Old 10-04-2016, 05:32 AM   #10386
 
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Originally Posted by Jonb82 View Post
Says to drive "normal", keeping rpms under 3k. Do you have a different experience?
I haven't had to break in an organic disc in like 10 years since I had one of my Civics. I don't remember doing anything other than driving gently for the first 200 miles or so (which is like a day for me). I just don't get why they limit the RPM's. You can accelerate past 3k and still engage the clutch gently.

How stiff is it compared to stock would you say roughly?
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 Old 10-04-2016, 06:07 AM   #10387
 
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Originally Posted by sheston View Post
I looked and looked for a cheap tranny jack when I did mine. After I was done, HF had a 450 lbs trans jack, 4 wheels, racket wrench height adjustment, tilt plate and ratchet strap for $70or 80. Went ahead and bought it for next time :-)
I had one of those. Note the key word "had". Got it for when I did the clutch in the jeep and it was next to worthless. It held the trans and transfer case but just barely. The ratchet strap didn't do shit except flex the support plate, the raise/lower mechanism only worked if someone was holding the thing still and helping to push up or down on the assembly depending on which direction your were going.

On the other hand it made for an excellent rolling stool until I threw it away when I moved. It made a very satisfying bang as it hit the floor or the apartment complex compacting dumpster.
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 Old 10-04-2016, 06:36 AM   #10388
 
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Originally Posted by MD1032 View Post
I haven't had to break in an organic disc in like 10 years since I had one of my Civics. I don't remember doing anything other than driving gently for the first 200 miles or so (which is like a day for me). I just don't get why they limit the RPM's. You can accelerate past 3k and still engage the clutch gently.



How stiff is it compared to stock would you say roughly?


A little stiffer, but they say it gets better after a while. It's not too stiff. I actually love it and prefer the extra pressure compared to the stocker


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Originally Posted by anavrinIV View Post
I had one of those. Note the key word "had". Got it for when I did the clutch in the jeep and it was next to worthless. It held the trans and transfer case but just barely. The ratchet strap didn't do shit except flex the support plate, the raise/lower mechanism only worked if someone was holding the thing still and helping to push up or down on the assembly depending on which direction your were going.



On the other hand it made for an excellent rolling stool until I threw it away when I moved. It made a very satisfying bang as it hit the floor or the apartment complex compacting dumpster.




This one did its job. To tilt the tranny we had to place another jack where the diff is to tilt it into place. It's a cheap jack, but worked



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 Old 10-04-2016, 07:01 AM   #10389
 
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Originally Posted by Jonb82 View Post


This one did its job. To tilt the tranny we had to place another jack where the diff is to tilt it into place. It's a cheap jack, but worked
I didn't have one of those at the time but I do now, a 15 year old craftsman one that's currently holding the heavy parts of a bike.
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 Old 10-06-2016, 02:07 PM   #10390
 
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Still experimenting with the Supercap/LiFePO4 battery, did about 6 start/stop cycles last night over the course of 1.5 hours (kid juggling and a gas station stop) car jumped to life on each start, lights bright and voltage settled down to 13.75-13.9 after start... I will need to remove it to repackage it (not happy with the posts, will need to find remote post kit) but the entire assembly is below my 10 lb goal.
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 Old 10-06-2016, 05:25 PM   #10391
 
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Spent all day with the serpentine belt. Wtf. What a pain in the dick. Couldn't hold the tensioner and put the new belt on. Had to keep working the tensioner so this happened

Thank God pep boys had a replacement. And this one has the added 15mm nub to turn the tensioner....still not enough hands so I had to make it work
New tensioner has a composite pulley (wtf) so I'll change that with the OEM one eventually.
At least I had good help at the end...

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 Old 10-10-2016, 08:53 AM   #10392
 
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Originally Posted by follman8r View Post
Spent all day with the serpentine belt. Wtf. What a pain in the dick. Couldn't hold the tensioner and put the new belt on. Had to keep working the tensioner so this happened.

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 Old 10-10-2016, 09:35 AM   #10393
 
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Temporarily "fixed" a leaking CV joint. When I was getting an alignment mechanic said duct tape wouldn't work, so I used gorilla tape. For some fucking reason Mazda doesn't have a passenger side outer boot. You have to by the axle


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 Old 10-10-2016, 10:45 AM   #10394
 
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Installed a replacement tire to correct a tire pull issue.

The car still pulls to the right... No pull prior to the install of the new tires.

What should I inspect for a possible cause? The tire shop checked the alignment and said it was fine and even on both sides (but did not provide a printout). The car is dangerous to drive above 60.
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 Old 10-10-2016, 11:53 AM   #10395
 
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That sounds like an alignment problem to me unless your tires were obviously fucked. Get the printout from the alignment machine and post it here.
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 Old 10-10-2016, 12:03 PM   #10396
 
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Installed some new front rotors and pads Saturday, how exciting!

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 Old 10-10-2016, 12:21 PM   #10397
 
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The shininess of your axle and axle nut is disturbing.
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 Old 10-10-2016, 01:03 PM   #10398
 
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Originally Posted by MD1032 View Post
The shininess of your axle and axle nut is disturbing.
lol gotta love that southern weather
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 Old 10-10-2016, 01:28 PM   #10399
 
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Originally Posted by MD1032 View Post
The shininess of your axle and axle nut is disturbing.
That was about the only clean thing on the car at the time...trust me. And yea no idea why that was so clean, heh.
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 Old 10-10-2016, 05:12 PM   #10400
 
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Originally Posted by Jonb82 View Post


Temporarily "fixed" a leaking CV joint. When I was getting an alignment mechanic said duct tape wouldn't work, so I used gorilla tape. For some fucking reason Mazda doesn't have a passenger side outer boot. You have to by the axle


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You do know the moment that mechanic looked behind your tire that tape gave him a legitimate face palm moment followed by head shakeing.... He may have also called over his coworkers to see. I never approve of duct tape for anything unless you have 3 teeth and a 6 pack hanging from your belt. It does suck that the boot ripped. I have been there before. They do sell replacement boots.
how to replace inner and outer CV boots
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