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 Old 01-23-2017, 01:32 PM   #10681
 
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Well today i changed my Plugs because car was misfiring at 5000 rpm and above. its a good thing i had a set of NGK one step colder plugs on my parts shelf. Old plugs had about 30k+ miles on them. I forgot this is not my old car

FILED taxes and BT is finally a go this year. Not sure what to go with yet. BNR most likely but waiting for UPGRADED versions
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 Old 01-23-2017, 01:35 PM   #10682
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Originally Posted by knocturnal View Post
Well today i changed my Plugs because car was misfiring at 5000 rpm and above. its a good thing i had a set of NGK one step colder plugs on my parts shelf. Old plugs had about 30k+ miles on them. I forgot this is not my old car

FILED taxes and BT is finally a go this year. Not sure what to go with yet. BNR most likely but waiting for UPGRADED versions
The UPGRADED version is basically just and 3.5in inlet instead of the original 3in inlet. Internals are still the same.

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 Old 01-23-2017, 01:38 PM   #10683
 
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Installed my first dp the other day. Went catless..





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 Old 01-23-2017, 01:57 PM   #10684
 
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Originally Posted by RazoE View Post
Pretty good! If you've ever driven next to a 2014-2016 Corolla it's a wide pattern. Doesn't travel very very far, but it lights up pretty well.


I've driven at them. It looks like they have high beams on all the time. I wasn't aware they were LED, I just assumed cause they were blinding me that they were HID.


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 Old 01-23-2017, 02:00 PM   #10685
 
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Did a compression test yesterday and rechecked spark plug gaps, looking good 165psi all cylinders, 60km away from 70,000km on my '13 PU


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 Old 01-23-2017, 02:02 PM   #10686
 
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Originally Posted by MS3Shadow View Post
The UPGRADED version is basically just and 3.5in inlet instead of the original 3in inlet. Internals are still the same.

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@MS3Shadow;
so the newer versions of the s3 have a 3.5 not the 3" inlet??
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 Old 01-23-2017, 02:04 PM   #10687
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Originally Posted by PurplFox View Post
@MS3Shadow;
so the newer versions of the s3 have a 3.5 not the 3" inlet??
The BNR S4. There was an thread about this. They're having an revision to remove an taper in the inlet.

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 Old 01-23-2017, 02:06 PM   #10688
 
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Ahh, lol. Just making sure i didn't totally miss something
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 Old 01-23-2017, 02:41 PM   #10689
 
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Originally Posted by Reddie1337 View Post
I've driven at them. It looks like they have high beams on all the time. I wasn't aware they were LED, I just assumed cause they were blinding me that they were HID.


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It's a tiny (about than size of a grain of rice) LED chip with a gigantic heatsink.





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 Old 01-23-2017, 02:59 PM   #10690
 
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finally replaced my worn, front sway bar bushings. I tried about 2 years ago and gave up after seeing how much space i had to work with. re-read some threads, got my self psyched up and tackled that bitch. much easier after i dropped the cross member.

thank god, that rattle and knocking was driving me crazy.
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 Old 01-23-2017, 08:38 PM   #10691
 
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After 122,000 miles I started noticing a crack on my hot side boost tube. Found some used silicone tubes on eBay last week and switched them out today.
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 Old 01-24-2017, 10:01 AM   #10692
 
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Installed some LED bulbs for the reverse Sunday. Got a pic today
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 Old 01-24-2017, 10:02 AM   #10693
 
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Originally Posted by El Beaner View Post
Installed some LED bulbs for the reverse Sunday. Got a pic today
Holy shit thats beautiful. What bulbs?

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 Old 01-24-2017, 10:03 AM   #10694
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Originally Posted by follman8r View Post
Holy shit thats beautiful. What bulbs?

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I got some similar LED brightness from the AaronLEDs that are on Amazon.

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 Old 01-24-2017, 10:03 AM   #10695
 
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Originally Posted by follman8r View Post
Holy shit thats beautiful. What bulbs?

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MC6RQAM
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 Old 01-24-2017, 10:40 AM   #10696
 
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Originally Posted by El Beaner View Post
Choice. Thanks

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 Old 01-25-2017, 06:44 AM   #10697
 
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Originally Posted by RazoE View Post
It's a tiny (about than size of a grain of rice) LED chip with a gigantic heatsink.













And because of that overcompensating heatsink, I will continue to high beam corollas coming at me, because they all look like they are high beaming me!

In seriousness, good job on the install.


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 Old 01-25-2017, 06:47 PM   #10698
 
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Installed an Ultimate Racing Test Pipe and started re-tuning. It was a pain installing it with the car on jack-stands vs on a lift. Also, the project took longer than expected because the bolts supplied by UR do not have long enough threads to effectively snug the connections down. Followed the advice of other posters and bought some better fitting hardware from Home Depot. Definitely enjoying the additional torque and broader torque curve.
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 Old 01-26-2017, 09:38 AM   #10699
 
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Originally Posted by 6kipps View Post
Installed an Ultimate Racing Test Pipe and started re-tuning. It was a pain installing it with the car on jack-stands vs on a lift. Also, the project took longer than expected because the bolts supplied by UR do not have long enough threads to effectively snug the connections down. Followed the advice of other posters and bought some better fitting hardware from Home Depot. Definitely enjoying the additional torque and broader torque curve.
Yeah wish I knew about that too, not entirely sure why UR sends out hardware that wont allow you to tighten the damn thing down, oh well. I'm just glad I decided to do the TP a few days before the DP...there would have been many angry words yelled for the whole neighborhood to hear at midnight.

Kinda like that time I put in shifter bushings and due to being tired after several hours of doing TIP/SRI and HPFP, lacked the mental wherewithal to grasp the fact that by torquing down the new bushings as I'm swapping them out it is getting progressively harder to get the rubber out. The last one took me about 45-50 minutes to yank out (in small chunks)...lost my voice repeatedly doing the death metal roar that night, woke up the next morning and realized I was being a complete idiot and just needed to loosen everything up a tad and it would have taken 45-50 secs and my hands wouldn't be sliced up to shit haha.
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 Old 01-26-2017, 10:00 AM   #10700
 
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I didn't have an issue tightening down mine with the supplied hardware. @kevdog; did you?
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 Old 01-26-2017, 07:05 PM   #10701
 
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I took the cheap route and just added washers to make it tight. Just happened to have a bunch the size I needed.
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 Old 01-26-2017, 08:13 PM   #10702
 
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I tried adding washers first and ran out...
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 Old 01-27-2017, 06:08 PM   #10703
 
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First is what my ride did to me. I got home and saw liquid all over my passenger front wheel. Thought at first it was brake fluid. Then I thought maybe it was PMM, but remembered I've replace that. Then thought what does a shock look like when it blows, then A/C oil, .....

Eventually figured out my radiator cap had stopped being a radiator cap, so I had overflowed all over that side.

Obviously I got a new cap :-)
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 Old 01-28-2017, 01:02 PM   #10704
 
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Originally Posted by 6kipps View Post
I tried adding washers first and ran out...
From what I recall they don't need to be super tight. I ran out of thread on the TP to CBE connection, but was plenty tight with threads to go at the DP connection. I didn't use any washers. There is enough slack to allow a little bit of movement, but there isn't any exhaust leak.
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 Old 01-28-2017, 05:53 PM   #10705
 
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They should have a spring on the screws that you compress that allows movement between the pipes. Really just need enough pressure to compress the springs a bit
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 Old 01-28-2017, 08:24 PM   #10706
 
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Installed a CorkSport tmm insert and CorkSport mud flaps today.
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 Old 01-29-2017, 06:23 AM   #10707
 
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Did some maintenance yesterday. Changed my oil, checked my spark plug gap, replaced elbow coupler on my intake because it was rubbing on the hard plastic piece of wiring harness (rubbing through, but replaced for free by CPE under warranty)(don't buy a silicone intake) and I found my GFB tms response bpv (that I've had for a month) to be a POS after a boost leak test. That valve leaks at the flange and from the trumpet area. I will be contacting edge tomorrow to see what my options are, bunch of suck and it pisses me off.
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 Old 01-29-2017, 11:43 PM   #10708
 
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Got my south bend stg 3 endurance installed over the weekend, liking it so far. One thing I am a bit worried about however, was on the freeway tonight and while speeding up to switch lanes, had about 1-2 sec of slippage (revs went from ~3k to about 4-5k, didn't notice because music)...didn't smell anything but it seems to be more prone to slipping after (can't get much past 25-30% throttle in 6th, probably was 40% when it slipped). Anyone have any idea if I just jacked up my kevlar disc or will driving like a grandma for the remaining 5-600 miles worth of break in clean off the possible glazing?
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 Old 01-30-2017, 06:22 PM   #10709
 
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I got the ACT 6 puck and they recommend a procedure of careful slipping and cooling down to "break" them in.

I tried that originally and still had slippage - turned out to be too much lube on the transmission shaft. Slug all over the clutch disk and was making it slip. Second time worked good, but only after using their break in procedure.

I don't know if South Bend recommends that or not
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 Old 01-30-2017, 06:28 PM   #10710
 
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The general gist I see is NO BOOST for the first 500 or so miles...that second of looking over shoulder for lane change saw ~14psi momentarily, stupid K04 being spooled always. Seems to grab just fine but I'm not about to see how easy it is to slip either.

Basically, south bend says no slipping the clutch more than 2 sec on break-in, so in theory I should be ok? Granted I think they're talking more about slipping on take-off/shifting, but most people don't take off at 1500-2000 rpm (amount it slipped) above idle either...keeping my fingers crossed. Maybe I'll flash to a low boost map just to be safe, stg 3 stratified ots+ is a bit on the aggressive side for new clutch apparently.

P.S. Its their kevlar clutch, not a ceramic puck setup.
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 Old 01-30-2017, 07:33 PM   #10711
 
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Finally changed my fender liner, my old one had part of the lower bumper portion ripped off and was scraping and flapping everywhere. Just waiting for my Conti DW's to come in to switch my wheels and tires out.
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 Old 01-30-2017, 08:19 PM   #10712
 
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Originally Posted by MoMS3 View Post
The general gist I see is NO BOOST for the first 500 or so miles...that second of looking over shoulder for lane change saw ~14psi momentarily, stupid K04 being spooled always. Seems to grab just fine but I'm not about to see how easy it is to slip either.

Basically, south bend says no slipping the clutch more than 2 sec on break-in, so in theory I should be ok? Granted I think they're talking more about slipping on take-off/shifting, but most people don't take off at 1500-2000 rpm (amount it slipped) above idle either...keeping my fingers crossed. Maybe I'll flash to a low boost map just to be safe, stg 3 stratified ots+ is a bit on the aggressive side for new clutch apparently.

P.S. Its their kevlar clutch, not a ceramic puck setup.
You're probably fine, just follow their break in...Which is pretty similar to most clutches also lots of city driving is key
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 Old 01-31-2017, 02:52 AM   #10713
 
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Originally Posted by AwAfrican View Post
You're probably fine, just follow their break in...Which is pretty similar to most clutches also lots of city driving is key
That's the plan. Its weird, now wanting to hit all red lights so I can start/stop again haha.

On a side note, semi baffled as to why my stock was slipping like a mofo @35k. All I can figure is something is shot in the pressure plate because there aren't any real hot spots that I can see, the disc isn't really glazed to speak of and has plenty of meat left. Hell both the pressure plate and flywheel still have the machined ridges mostly intact. Rear main was bone dry too. The OE pressure plate is an odd one, I'd be curious to see why they engineered it in such a seemingly complex fashion.

The clutch pedal felt like the stock disc was paper thin, maybe the self-adjusting mechanism failed to adjust?
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 Old 01-31-2017, 07:07 AM   #10714
 
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Originally Posted by MoMS3 View Post
That's the plan. Its weird, now wanting to hit all red lights so I can start/stop again haha.

On a side note, semi baffled as to why my stock was slipping like a mofo @35k. All I can figure is something is shot in the pressure plate because there aren't any real hot spots that I can see, the disc isn't really glazed to speak of and has plenty of meat left. Hell both the pressure plate and flywheel still have the machined ridges mostly intact. Rear main was bone dry too. The OE pressure plate is an odd one, I'd be curious to see why they engineered it in such a seemingly complex fashion.

The clutch pedal felt like the stock disc was paper thin, maybe the self-adjusting mechanism failed to adjust?
That's exactly what happened to mine. Started slipping when on E85 (from high torque <350 ft-lbs atw) but otherwise didn't slip, and when we removed the clutch, we could not find anything wrong. Almost no hot spots to speak of and over half the friction disc left if not more.
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 Old 01-31-2017, 09:20 AM   #10715
 
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Originally Posted by MD1032 View Post
That's exactly what happened to mine. Started slipping when on E85 (from high torque <350 ft-lbs atw) but otherwise didn't slip, and when we removed the clutch, we could not find anything wrong. Almost no hot spots to speak of and over half the friction disc left if not more.
Same here. My luk clutch holds right about 350 and under(93tune). Anything more than that when on my e85 tune and it is subject to slip for a split second just after spool up then it catches and holds. I'm planning to go act 6 puck as soon as I can get some time to tear it down again.
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 Old 01-31-2017, 09:28 AM   #10716
 
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So far I've had no issues with the 6 puck in about 25k miles and it grabs like a motherfucker. I can't imagine using a stock clutch again.
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voodoo2crue (01-31-2017)
 Old 01-31-2017, 09:32 AM   #10717
 
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Originally Posted by voodoo2crue View Post
Same here. My luk clutch holds right about 350 and under(93tune). Anything more than that when on my e85 tune and it is subject to slip for a split second just after spool up then it catches and holds. I'm planning to go act 6 puck as soon as I can get some time to tear it down again.
Yeah mine started to lightly slip on stage 2 tune when it was <20 degrees out, then stopped as soon as it warmed up a bit. Once I slapped on the catless dp and stage 3 tune and hit another cold snap, it was slipping hard in higher gears and even a bit in 2nd and it never recovered once it warmed up again. Oh well, wonder if I could have gotten a warranty replacement...then again, no way I'm trying to have another DP party stocking out for dealer visit.

Not to mention the lame OE heat shielding on firewall is completely shagged, they'd be onto my shenanigans this time.
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 Old 01-31-2017, 09:34 AM   #10718
 
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The SB sgt 3, is great as well, but don't rush the break in. They actually tell you not to slip it for more than 2-3 seconds for the first 1000 miles.
I took the most ridiculous routes home during that time.
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 Old 01-31-2017, 09:52 AM   #10719
 
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Originally Posted by PurplFox View Post
The SB sgt 3, is great as well, but don't rush the break in. They actually tell you not to slip it for more than 2-3 seconds for the first 1000 miles.
I took the most ridiculous routes home during that time.
Yeah I'm loving it so far, that one slip scared me, reading stuff elsewhere implied that if you so much as look at kevlar wrong during break-in it will spontaneously glaze itself permanently. This car has a way of making me paranoid haha. Its ridiculous how much easier to shift smoothly and get started it is with this vs the Luk, I think I just don't get along well with DMFWs. Can't wait to get this this thing broken in and get an e85 tune.
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So I can see/be seen better: DDM LED for Nagare Accent lights, DDM Switchbacks Front turn signals, Osram CBI's, ADVmonster LED Fogs

To-do List: BNR S4, maybe S5...bottom end build, probably should do brakes/suspension at some point. Shooting for a 450-500whp daily driver.
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 Old 01-31-2017, 06:35 PM   #10720
 
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I'm with @MD1032;, I got the 6 puck and won't go back. I had the stock one slipping in 4th and above after shifting into gears. It wouldn't slip until I got after it, but then I believe it would heat up and grab.

6 puck doesn't do any of that, even with over 500 ft-lbs :-)
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