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 Old 03-15-2017, 02:38 PM   #10881
 
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Mocked up my Sure full3 Aeros to my CS turbo yesterday... and it fit! If anyone's wondering why a SURE product of all intakes available; it was $100usd off last year ..
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Intake Valves/Fuel Injector's never serviced

Corksport: IC.RMM.TIP.FSB.Tubes.Strut Tower
JBR: 70a Sides.SSP.51r SURE: Dreadnaught.Juggernaught.Anchors.FlowM6.
Hypertech.MS CAI & SRI.Turbosmart DS BOV.Cobb EBCS.AT HPFP.
Deatchsworks.CPe SafeSeals.Redline Trans.Diff. Motul Brake Fluid.
H&R Sport Springs.Bilstein B6s.Whiteline Adj RSB.SPC Ball Joints.SU Rear Interior Brace.
StopTech Perf. Pads.Centric X-D Rotors.TechnaFit Braided Clutch-Brake Lines.Damond PS Cooler.
Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ 235/40/18.Drag DR-38 +47. Gloss Black Blue Undercut.
Pirelli Sottozero s2 240 215/45/18. MS6 OEMs.

On hold while built options are sourced:
To Order: Full Race Tubular Exhaust Mani/Vent plate/Rear Camber Arms, Bilstein B8's, Stratified Tune
To Install: CS Turbo/IM/DP/3.5 MAP/tubes/OCC, APv3, DM EGR, VG Antennae, SURE Full3 Aeros/Rad Hoses
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 Old 03-15-2017, 02:39 PM   #10882
 
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Originally Posted by Marcus View Post
Mocked up my Sure full3 Aeros to my CS turbo yesterday... and it fit! If anyone's wondering why a SURE product of all intakes available; it was $100usd off last year ..
That doesn't excuse putting a sure to fail product on your car
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 Old 03-15-2017, 03:03 PM   #10883
 
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Originally Posted by StevenPThomas View Post
I've got mirror covers and spoiler done on the outside. Interior I've done the silver on the steering wheel, traction control cover, and above glove box.


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 Old 03-15-2017, 03:10 PM   #10884
 
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Originally Posted by AwAfrican View Post
That doesn't excuse putting a sure to fail product on your car
I lol'd at that.

But posted it b/c brownie.

And its an intake... how could they fuck that up...

**kicks back and waits for it**
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Intake Valves/Fuel Injector's never serviced

Corksport: IC.RMM.TIP.FSB.Tubes.Strut Tower
JBR: 70a Sides.SSP.51r SURE: Dreadnaught.Juggernaught.Anchors.FlowM6.
Hypertech.MS CAI & SRI.Turbosmart DS BOV.Cobb EBCS.AT HPFP.
Deatchsworks.CPe SafeSeals.Redline Trans.Diff. Motul Brake Fluid.
H&R Sport Springs.Bilstein B6s.Whiteline Adj RSB.SPC Ball Joints.SU Rear Interior Brace.
StopTech Perf. Pads.Centric X-D Rotors.TechnaFit Braided Clutch-Brake Lines.Damond PS Cooler.
Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ 235/40/18.Drag DR-38 +47. Gloss Black Blue Undercut.
Pirelli Sottozero s2 240 215/45/18. MS6 OEMs.

On hold while built options are sourced:
To Order: Full Race Tubular Exhaust Mani/Vent plate/Rear Camber Arms, Bilstein B8's, Stratified Tune
To Install: CS Turbo/IM/DP/3.5 MAP/tubes/OCC, APv3, DM EGR, VG Antennae, SURE Full3 Aeros/Rad Hoses
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 Old 03-16-2017, 07:31 AM   #10885
 
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i had the passenger side motor mount go out a week ago. ordered the JBR replacement and installed it yesterday evening. i was running out of sunlight so i didnt get a chance to wash the engine bay. vibrations are as expected. i read that there was a break in period though, so ill see hows i likes it.
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 Old 03-16-2017, 01:11 PM   #10886
 
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Originally Posted by andale927 View Post
Installed my Corksport CF Hood Scoop.



Looks pretty good! I was contemplating selling it, but the look is growing on me haha.
I'm looking forward to the summer. I can't wait to wax and shine my car up like yours. I love the metallic flake in our paint. It really pops!

What kind of grill cover do you have?
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 Old 03-16-2017, 01:23 PM   #10887
 
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Originally Posted by Marcus View Post
I'm being quoted $650cad for the valve cleaning from my dealership. Aaaaand I'm close to 240,000km without ever having my valves cleaned... surprised my shit still works.
My dealership only quoted me $3-400 for the valve cleaning. Seemed way off the target, but I'm guessing they would have done a shit job. A quote of 5-7 hours seems reasonable to me.

Also, my dealership wasn't going to use media blasting, which seems to be the gold standard for valve cleaning. I know it's not the only way to do it, but seems to be the best method.
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 Old 03-16-2017, 04:32 PM   #10888
 
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Originally Posted by Duey1083 View Post
My dealership only quoted me $3-400 for the valve cleaning. Seemed way off the target, but I'm guessing they would have done a shit job. A quote of 5-7 hours seems reasonable to me.

Also, my dealership wasn't going to use media blasting, which seems to be the gold standard for valve cleaning. I know it's not the only way to do it, but seems to be the best method.
The quote you had was probably for the valve cleaning without the hours for the take down of and the re-install of the IC, IM and valve cover. Regardless, an hour per cylinder does seem off. But my dealership quoted me 4.5 hrs for the rear diff brace and mount to be swapped out. 9 hours later and at quoted cost, my car was out the door. I didnt bitch about the time as they kept me informed and I expected it be an 8 hour job from what I read on here. That rear sub frame fools everyone (speed6 for reference).

IIRC, my dealership said they use a solvent type liquid that covers the valves while at TDC. If that's the case, I'll ask them to leave two cylinders full for a day each while they get my other parts on. In my case, I need to get all this done before summer heats up with the amount of heat soak my engine suffered last summer. Having a fouled up IC doesnt help either.

If you're ever out in the Vancouver area and need quality Mazda service, I like to rep the Freeway Mazda in the Surrey, just off the #1 Highway. Speed and mod friendly as they've installed the majority of my parts other the springs, struts and sway bars.
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Intake Valves/Fuel Injector's never serviced

Corksport: IC.RMM.TIP.FSB.Tubes.Strut Tower
JBR: 70a Sides.SSP.51r SURE: Dreadnaught.Juggernaught.Anchors.FlowM6.
Hypertech.MS CAI & SRI.Turbosmart DS BOV.Cobb EBCS.AT HPFP.
Deatchsworks.CPe SafeSeals.Redline Trans.Diff. Motul Brake Fluid.
H&R Sport Springs.Bilstein B6s.Whiteline Adj RSB.SPC Ball Joints.SU Rear Interior Brace.
StopTech Perf. Pads.Centric X-D Rotors.TechnaFit Braided Clutch-Brake Lines.Damond PS Cooler.
Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ 235/40/18.Drag DR-38 +47. Gloss Black Blue Undercut.
Pirelli Sottozero s2 240 215/45/18. MS6 OEMs.

On hold while built options are sourced:
To Order: Full Race Tubular Exhaust Mani/Vent plate/Rear Camber Arms, Bilstein B8's, Stratified Tune
To Install: CS Turbo/IM/DP/3.5 MAP/tubes/OCC, APv3, DM EGR, VG Antennae, SURE Full3 Aeros/Rad Hoses
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 Old 03-16-2017, 05:55 PM   #10889
 
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BNR S4 V2 is in (yesterday). IM gasket and safe seals are in. OCC is in. GA is in. EGR deleted. TB spacer is in. CM WMI still in progress.
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 Old 03-17-2017, 11:56 AM   #10890
 
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The shift is strong with this one. Still need to adjust the boot.

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 Old 03-17-2017, 12:12 PM   #10891
 
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Ordered up JBR 3.5" w/ included S-OTS map, will be installing next week along with CS battery box. Slowly getting closer to BNR S4 "ready"...just need to get 3-port ebcs and 3.5bar map...also going to figure out why I've had a bit more vibration through subframe/floor the past week or so (thinking something didn't get torqued properly during clutch job).
My first thought is loose bolt through rear portion of rmm (CP-E stg 2) due to the vibrating floor symptom.
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 Old 03-17-2017, 07:43 PM   #10892
 
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Took advantage of the warm weather to wash my car. Luckily my wife was there when I cleaned the wheels. One had a crack in it (didn't see any other damage) and that worried her enough she told me to buy new wheels.

So, I finished up searching I was already doing and ended up with some Konig Milligram 18x8.5 +35 Matte Black wheels. Woo Hoo!
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 Old 03-17-2017, 08:25 PM   #10893
 
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Originally Posted by MoMS3 View Post
Ordered up JBR 3.5" w/ included S-OTS map, will be installing next week along with CS battery box. Slowly getting closer to BNR S4 "ready"...just need to get 3-port ebcs and 3.5bar map...also going to figure out why I've had a bit more vibration through subframe/floor the past week or so (thinking something didn't get torqued properly during clutch job).
My first thought is loose bolt through rear portion of rmm (CP-E stg 2) due to the vibrating floor symptom.
Re torque ALL of your motor mounts as I presume you loosened all of them a little to do the clutch
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 Old 03-17-2017, 10:44 PM   #10894
 
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Originally Posted by AwAfrican View Post
Re torque ALL of your motor mounts as I presume you loosened all of them a little to do the clutch


You only have to remove RMM and the TMM for the clutch. Could also be the subframe


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 Old 03-17-2017, 10:56 PM   #10895
 
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Originally Posted by Duey1083 View Post
My dealership only quoted me $3-400 for the valve cleaning. Seemed way off the target, but I'm guessing they would have done a shit job. A quote of 5-7 hours seems reasonable to me.



Also, my dealership wasn't going to use media blasting, which seems to be the gold standard for valve cleaning. I know it's not the only way to do it, but seems to be the best method.


I asked my local Mazda dealership about this. The don't take your IM off. They just "connect your car to a machine" and run a chemical to clean the valves through. Mines was quoting me $300ish. After further research the dealership service doesn't do jack shit. BMW, Audi etc actually does it the right way on their cars. I have recently acquired all the tools and supporting parts while I'm in there (TIG gaskets, TB coolant delete, injector seals, o-rings etc). If I had extra or disposable funds I would love to take before and after pictures of the valves after they performed said service.


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 Old 03-18-2017, 08:08 AM   #10896
 
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Picked up some 8' lumber

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Self Tuned BNR S4--Cobb APv3--Cobb XLE BPV--CMGS Stg2 w/DO10--CPE TMIC--Autotech HPFP internals--JBR Tru-3 Intake--JBR Boost tubes--JBR EGR delete--Mishimoto OCC--CS RMM 80--CS Injector Seals--Eibach Pro Springs--Ebay NYPPD Shifter bushings--Ebay Downpipe--Custom 3" TBE--Vibrant Resonator--TB Coolant Bypass--Bosch 3 bar map--ACT 6 puck --GS EBCS 3port interrupt--SP63 VC breather
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Oil-Rotella T6
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 Old 03-18-2017, 04:37 PM   #10897
 
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I installed my Autotech HPFP Internals today, and it only took me 5.5 hours!

I had a few issues with removing the OEM piston and sleeve out of the seal screw/nut. It did not slide apart easily like all of the how-to videos I've watched. I also fucked up a bit when torqueing the seal screw down. My 18mm socket wasn't fully seated and I lightly striped the top of the nut. Still useable, but I had to really be sure to clear out the grime and little bits of shavings.

Nevertheless, they're installed and everything appears to be fine

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- Koni STR.T rear shocks to replace my blown OEM ones
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 Old 03-18-2017, 04:43 PM   #10898
 
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Originally Posted by Duey1083 View Post
I installed my Autotech HPFP Internals today, and it only took me 5.5 hours!

I had a few issues with removing the OEM piston and sleeve out of the seal screw/nut. It did not slide apart easily like all of the how-to videos I've watched. I also fucked up a bit when torqueing the seal screw down. My 18mm socket wasn't fully seated and I lightly striped the top of the nut. Still useable, but I had to really be sure to clear out the grime and little bits of shavings.

Nevertheless, they're installed and everything appears to be fine

Next on the list:

- Damond Stage 1 OCC
- Koni STR.T rear shocks to replace my blown OEM ones
I replaced a seized fuel pump piston in a 6 recently. I had to cut the retainer off as it wasn't coming out of the pump. Fucking hate working on 6's.

Crapatalk, it sucks for free!
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 Old 03-18-2017, 04:47 PM   #10899
 
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Originally Posted by monkey.bones.007 View Post
I replaced a seized fuel pump piston in a 6 recently. I had to cut the retainer off as it wasn't coming out of the pump. Fucking hate working on 6's.

Crapatalk, it sucks for free!
Mine felt close to seized. I ended up reassembling the piston, spring, retainer back into the pump and put it back in the bench vise. I twisted and pulled and thank God it separated.

I'm not sure what I would have done if it didn't let go.
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 Old 03-18-2017, 04:50 PM   #10900
 
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Originally Posted by Duey1083 View Post
Mine felt close to seized. I ended up reassembling the piston, spring, retainer back into the pump and put it back in the bench vise. I twisted and pulled and thank God it separated.

I'm not sure what I would have done if it didn't let go.
You would dremel the retainer off. It sucks, but you won't be going back to stock.

Crapatalk, it sucks for free!
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 Old 03-18-2017, 05:28 PM   #10901
 
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Originally Posted by monkey.bones.007 View Post
You would dremel the retainer off. It sucks, but you won't be going back to stock.

Crapatalk, it sucks for free!
Haha, I don't think I'll be going back to stock for my internals ever. I was reefing pretty hard on it trying to get the retainer to come off.

Pretty sure the stockers are done...oh well! You live and learn
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 Old 03-18-2017, 06:51 PM   #10902
 
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Got her out today, should be done with everything soon...
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 Old 03-19-2017, 04:11 PM   #10903
 
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Restored my headlights lol
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 Old 03-19-2017, 07:29 PM   #10904
 
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upgraded most of my lights. HIDs, yellow independent fogs, and some legit reverse lights.





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 Old 03-19-2017, 07:31 PM   #10905
 
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@Adamxx6; what you using for reverse lights and fog's?
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 Old 03-19-2017, 07:34 PM   #10906
 
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reverse https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and fogs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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 Old 03-19-2017, 08:39 PM   #10907
 
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Thanks they look good
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 Old 03-19-2017, 09:16 PM   #10908
 
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I found an old log that I had from the car in stock form and decided to check out a comparison to now with v dyno
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 Old 03-20-2017, 06:35 AM   #10909
 
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When my car decides there is something it needs replacing, it does so in a spectacular manner lol


Somehow between clutch replacement and 5 days after, my bearing decided to shit the bed. It did so in such a manner that it took the Axle with it (seized the Axle nut), seized to the hub and caused a huge headache for the people replacing it.

It took over 30 min of hitting it with an pneumatic impact to get the nut off. They used lubricant, and even busted out a torch. At one point a breaker bar used in fucking semi's was introduced and it ended up breaking the adapter. They had to use a torch to get the bearing out of the hub as well.
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 Old 03-20-2017, 10:28 AM   #10910
 
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Looks like a spoke too soon earlier. Just realized I still need an air compressor for the valve cleaning. Just a minor detail missed. With saying that does anyone on here have experience with this cheap HF one?


Sent while probably pooping
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 Old 03-20-2017, 08:58 PM   #10911
 
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New Stop Tech Vented Rotors & EBC Red Stuffs all around!

First Time getting away from Stock brakes. 50 miles into break in, they same good. No noise under light braking, some noise under moderate braking. Haven't tried heavy yet...
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 Old 03-21-2017, 05:23 AM   #10912
 
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Got some wrench time in and installed the Corksport TMM insert. That stock piece of rubber was flimsy and broken in 3 pieces when I took it out. Also changed the oil since the car was jacked up and the plastic skid guard was off. Made it so much easier as I didn't splash oil everywhere on the skid guard.
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 Old 03-21-2017, 06:25 AM   #10913
 
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Got my eBay Downpipe installed yesterday.. sounds pretty awesome. Now I have to save up for a turbo. Thinking of either the corksport or a bnr not sure yet
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 Old 03-21-2017, 09:37 AM   #10914
 
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Originally Posted by Tibby0323 View Post
Got my eBay Downpipe installed yesterday.. sounds pretty awesome. Now I have to save up for a turbo. Thinking of either the corksport or a bnr not sure yet
BNR all the way!
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 Old 03-21-2017, 09:43 AM   #10915
 
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From what I've been reading, the BNR S4 is the way to go!
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 Old 03-21-2017, 10:16 AM   #10916
 
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Well in that case I'll have to decide between the s3 and s4..
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 Old 03-21-2017, 10:21 AM   #10917
 
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Originally Posted by Tibby0323 View Post
Well in that case I'll have to decide between the s3 and s4..
Depends on goal....If you want to keep stock block and want the boost to come in lower and still have excellent power band then S3. The s4 is doing very well but can out power your stock block as can the S3... I personally love the fast spool of the k04 so s3 is my personal choice for k04 replacement...If I had the money I'd get the EFR 7163 full race turbo kit that edge sells...
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 Old 03-21-2017, 10:46 AM   #10918
 
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Originally Posted by AwAfrican View Post
Depends on goal....If you want to keep stock block and want the boost to come in lower and still have excellent power band then S3. The s4 is doing very well but can out power your stock block as can the S3... I personally love the fast spool of the k04 so s3 is my personal choice for k04 replacement...If I had the money I'd get the EFR 7163 full race turbo kit that edge sells...
Consider that even for stock block boost levels the S4 is more efficient than the S3 and will make more power before hitting knock limits...But agreed that it spools about 500rpm slower...On the other hand, it inherently boosts above the 3000rpm threshold so is safer for low RPM boost concerns..
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 Old 03-21-2017, 02:41 PM   #10919
 
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Started E33 tune with Freektune and installed Corksport rear sway bar.
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 Old 03-21-2017, 03:52 PM   #10920
 
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Originally Posted by Tifosi42 View Post
Started E33 tune with Freektune and installed Corksport rear sway bar.


What's the difference between 88 and 87? Lol


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