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 Old 06-11-2017, 01:16 AM   #11241
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Had my brand new corksport front spoiler drag a leading right front bottom edge crawling over a dip in the road on my street at 1 mph- and tear off 12 inches. Got the piece, glued it back on. Repaired and reinforced the spoiler. Trimmed the lip back w a die grinder so it would not trip on high spots any more. Repainted it (Black)
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 Old 06-11-2017, 03:39 PM   #11242
 
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installed New exhaust housing on my turbo. Reset the preload on the turbo to reach ~25psi. Painted the exhaust manifold ceramic silver.

Got my Uniden R3 and put it in the car. Replaced my Beltronics STI Magnum.

Here are some pics of my BNR issues. You can also see on the new turbo that the welds for the same collar are cracked also.
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BNR S4 V2 // XS Power Manifold V3 // JBR Tru-3.0" Aluminum Intake // Devils Own WMI D10 NOZZLE// JBR DISI Bypass Valve Hose // JBR 70duro RMM // JBR SSB // JBR SSP // JBR Coolant Bypass Kit // DM EGR Full Delete Kit // DM TMM // DM PMM // COBB AP V2 // CNT Racing Catless Downpipe // CP-E TMIC // CP-E Injector Seals // SP63 Valve Cover Breather // Custom 3" Magnaflow exhaust //One Step Colder NGK Plugs // Bosch 3bar Map sensor // Grimmspeed EBCS // MD OCC // MD PCV Plate // Stop Tech Braided Lines // Autotech Internals // Forge BPV V1 // Corksport V2 RSB // Eibach PRO-kit

Stratified Tuned Stage 2 OTS+
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 Old 06-12-2017, 10:38 PM   #11243
 
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Was having issues with my OEM ND Miata shift knob and my car popping out of 2nd gear when braking hard during autox. Was running a DM SSP with stock shift weight. Did some searching on this forum which led to saying a heavy shift knob (ND knob = ~450g) + stock shifter weight = popouts. Remembered the DM kit came with two bolts and two lock nuts, so i installed those... and it's amazing. If any of you guys have driven a e46/e9x/f8x M3/M4, the shifter feels like that now. Light with a tiny bit of notchiness/click when you shift into a gear. I actually prefer this over the stock shifter where the weight just slides into gear.

Also found out that all 4 of my KWV1 shocks are leaking oil
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 Old 06-13-2017, 06:13 AM   #11244
 
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Installed my second hand Corksport Power Path Stage II intake!


I swear after I got over the hump of buying my HPFP internals, I've been buying stuff like crazy! All I need now is a short DP and upgarded IC then I'll be ready for a pro tune!
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 Old 06-13-2017, 08:35 AM   #11245
 
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Shipped her off to Growler Motor Labs for the engine build. Summer is the most erratic time of year for me, time wise, and it would have taken me three months it get it built on my own. Growler is a high profile, high end shop so I don`t mind paying for their services. I~ll get her back with a new heart and in the north end of the 400`s.
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 Old 06-17-2017, 08:18 AM   #11246
 
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Fixed my overboost issue.
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 Old 06-17-2017, 05:44 PM   #11247
 
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Went from OEM Rotors and Front pads /w Ferodo DS2500 rears (gifted) to EBC Yellows and Centric Slotted with SS StopTech lines. Went to bed them in and I've noticed a huge difference in stopping power and no difference in initial bite.

I had one issue during the install. The front passenger side, and both rear brake lines were easy to remove and put back on. However, when I got to the drivers front side, it would not budge, I ended up using a torch just above the 10mm hard line nut and then I was able to break it loose. Then after loosening the old rubber lines by hand, it would keep spinning but not come out, ended up getting a line saw and chopping it off revealing the flared end of the oem hard line. I couldn't get the new SS connector over this, so I gently shaved around the flare one round pass at a time until I could get the SS connector over it. The OEM hard line still had a flare. Should I just replace this brake hard line and leave the other 3? I find it weird how it looked to be overtightened/flared from factory compared to the other 3 ends.
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 Old 06-17-2017, 09:40 PM   #11248
 
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UR Downpipe, UR Test Pipe, and ETS TMIC over past week. Probably took me 8 hours total working after work with 2 setbacks. Dropped one of the downpipe nuts and it went into the abyss never to be found again. Also I don't know if i'll ever be able to get this Down Pipe off again, the bottom corner nut got messed up some trying to tighten it using a wrench 1/4 of a turn at a time. No sockets would fit over it, too close to pipe. God that's a painful 1/4 of a hard turn at a time. The bolts I had for the TP to stock exhaust didn't have enough threads and I had to use a stack of washers to tighten.

I should count myself lucky though based on the install threads I read, with 78K miles i was able to get both oxygen sensors in and out with no problems i can see after driving around gingerly. No CEL and I really love the slight increase/change in sound, just what i wanted. I'm going to a custom tune next and try to stop adding mods for a while.... That downpipe/TP install was so painful it has used up all my wrenching desire for a good while.
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 Old 06-17-2017, 09:46 PM   #11249
 
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I looked at it...smiled because I didn't see any bird shit then went back inside
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 Old 06-17-2017, 09:46 PM   #11250
 
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Originally Posted by Donnyg20 View Post
Installed my second hand Corksport Power Path Stage II intake!
[/IMG][/URL]

I swear after I got over the hump of buying my HPFP internals, I've been buying stuff like crazy! All I need now is a short DP and upgarded IC then I'll be ready for a pro tune!
You sound like me man. In the last few months I got the same used CS intake as you off EBAY for and then proceeded to buy; Autoech HPFP, AP V3, Second hand UR DP, UR TP, and a used ETS TMIC. Got everything installed as of yesterday and I just purchased a FreekTune eTune. really hoping to stop buying stuff for a while
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 Old 06-17-2017, 09:53 PM   #11251
 
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Started my meth install, just gotta wire everything now!

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Power:
BNR S4 v2 Turbocharger | JBR 3.5" Aluminum Intake | CS Battery Box | GFB Respons BPV |Depo Racing Catless Downpipe | Bosch 3 BAR MAP | JBR 3 Port EBC | ETS Top Mount Intercooler | Autotech HPFP Internals | Ultimate Racing Catback | Corksport Test Pipe | Cobb Accessport V3 | FREEKTUNED E30 Mix

Handling:
Kumho Ecsta PS91 Max Summer Tires | Corksport TMM Insert | Cobb RMM | JBR Weighted Shift Knob | JBR Weighted Shift Bushings | JBR Rear Sway Bar | Damond Short Shift Plate

Other:
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 Old 06-18-2017, 06:53 AM   #11252
 
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I have the transmission out replacing the rear main seal. Also checking a loud banging noise that started by trans. Found the flywheel rocking slightly back and forth. Replacing bolts. Trying to locate arp hardware. Also cleaning bell housing from the oil. Clutch recently replaced and survived with out oil contamination.

Next on the list is changing all control arms and bushes in the rear.

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 Old 06-18-2017, 05:13 PM   #11253
 
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Centric rotors and hawk hps brakes!

Now i know why people get replacement crash bars. Id rather do a a dp/mani swap then cut this satin spawn that is the crash bar...
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PTE 5858 Vband .82ar // Tial EWG // CPE Mani // 3" Turboback // JBR Under route hot pipe // MD ST mani+spacer with PI // Siemens 60lb Injectors // Splitsecond inj controller // JBR 88 duro RMM/TMM // MD PMM // TWM Full replacement shifter // JBR CC // Autotech FP Internals // SP63 SB/Manley rods SP63 pro pistons // Treadstone FMIC TR824 // FoMoCo Tranny Jizz // South Bend Clutch Stage 3 enduro// GFB Respons // FJ 4" intake // WMI 100% VPM1 // Air Lift 1000 in rear // N2MB WOT BOX
Rfinkle tune in progress

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 Old 06-18-2017, 05:44 PM   #11254
 
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Originally Posted by 5doorsoffury View Post
Centric rotors and hawk hps brakes!

Now i know why people get replacement crash bars. Id rather do a a dp/mani swap then cut this satin spawn that is the crash bar...
Just need a plasma torch, otherwise it sucks donkey balls like a Mexican whore in a donkey show.

crapatalk it sucks for free
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 Old 06-19-2017, 08:55 AM   #11255
 
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Replaced transmission fluid yesterday to some Redline MT-90 75W80 with 35K miles on the car. It may be a placebo effect, but the 1-2 shift does feel smoother than before, but either way it was past due to be changed.
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 Old 06-19-2017, 09:50 PM   #11256
 
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Originally Posted by Titan View Post
UR Downpipe, UR Test Pipe, and ETS TMIC over past week. Probably took me 8 hours total working after work with 2 setbacks. Dropped one of the downpipe nuts and it went into the abyss never to be found again. Also I don't know if i'll ever be able to get this Down Pipe off again, the bottom corner nut got messed up some trying to tighten it using a wrench 1/4 of a turn at a time. No sockets would fit over it, too close to pipe. God that's a painful 1/4 of a hard turn at a time. The bolts I had for the TP to stock exhaust didn't have enough threads and I had to use a stack of washers to tighten.

I should count myself lucky though based on the install threads I read, with 78K miles i was able to get both oxygen sensors in and out with no problems i can see after driving around gingerly. No CEL and I really love the slight increase/change in sound, just what i wanted. I'm going to a custom tune next and try to stop adding mods for a while.... That downpipe/TP install was so painful it has used up all my wrenching desire for a good while.
You're likely referring to the nut underneath the downpipe on the firewall side, yeah? If so, the easiest way to get that one on/off is to put it back on first. Trust me. I've done the down pipe on the Speed like 5 times now.
But I definitely feel ya' on those 1/8 turns...maybe 1/4 turns if you're lucky.

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JBR 88 Durometer RMM, Autotech HPFP Internals, COBB Accessport V3, CS Hood Strut Kit, CS Underhood LED Kit, CS Eyelids (painted), BFG CS2s with JBR 5mm spacers, Password JDM Gurney Flap, FREEKTUNE e-Tune, Full Race FMIC, RZO RA138 Shift Knob, RZO 270mm Convex Rear View Mirror, Rally Armor Limited Ed. Flaps, JBR Stage 2 Short Shifter, NGK One Step Colder Plugs, Ultimate Racing: V3 Down Pipe (w/ Metal Substrate Core), Straight Test Pipe, and CBE, Go Fast Bits Respons TMS Blowoff Valve, CS Injector Seals, DM Stage 1 OCC + VTA, DM EGR Delete Kit, DM PMM, HTP 3.5" Intake, BNR S4, Grimmspeed EBCS, CS 3.5 Bar MAP, Prosport 52"mm Premium Evo Boost Gauge, RZO RP81 and RP85 Sports Competition Pedals
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 Old 06-19-2017, 10:36 PM   #11257
 
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Originally Posted by Titan View Post
UR Downpipe, UR Test Pipe, and ETS TMIC over past week. Probably took me 8 hours total working after work with 2 setbacks. Dropped one of the downpipe nuts and it went into the abyss never to be found again. Also I don't know if i'll ever be able to get this Down Pipe off again, the bottom corner nut got messed up some trying to tighten it using a wrench 1/4 of a turn at a time. No sockets would fit over it, too close to pipe. God that's a painful 1/4 of a hard turn at a time. The bolts I had for the TP to stock exhaust didn't have enough threads and I had to use a stack of washers to tighten.

I should count myself lucky though based on the install threads I read, with 78K miles i was able to get both oxygen sensors in and out with no problems i can see after driving around gingerly. No CEL and I really love the slight increase/change in sound, just what i wanted. I'm going to a custom tune next and try to stop adding mods for a while.... That downpipe/TP install was so painful it has used up all my wrenching desire for a good while.

Yeah not entirely sure why UR puts those stupidly long bolts in with their DP/TP. I ended up just getting shorter bolts, and honestly even the shorter ones are too long with my CS Catback.

And thank god for this forum, saved my ass on that bottom nut haha. However, I also had to get creative with the top middle nut as well, the dent they made in my V3 didn't allow for a socket until the nut was more than 40% threaded on the stud, and no wrench I had would work between the exhaust runners either. Five most furious minutes of working on the car thus far haha...luckily that stud was loose enough to remove, and I just threw the stud in a vice and threaded the nut further down so I had room for the socket to tighten the last little bit. Thought I was going to have to loosen everything up again for a min, neighbors probably thought I was murdering someone based on the "bloody screaming roar" noise that ensued haha.

Could be worse though, my old 5-cyl audi required me to fabricate a wrench to get one of the damn nuts off it's DP, had to take a box end S-wrench and cut the bottom third off, rotate it and reweld it at a funky angle to reach around and under the downpipe. And even then, it was 1/8th's of a turn for about 15 min. Reinstalling it was even more fun, took about 20 min just to get the damn thing started on the stud, on top of 15 min of tightening...
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For Powah: JBR Tru 3.5" WP, CP-E TMIC, UR V3 Catless DP/Reso. TP, CS Resonated CBE, CS HPFP Internals, Cobb AP, DM PMM, DM TMM, CS Stg 2 RMM, CS Shifter Bushings, CS Dual VTA BPV, South Bend Stage 3 Endurance clutch, Damond Motorsports SSP, CS 3.5bar MAP, Stratified S-OTS+ Stg 3 E85 tune for summer, Pump S-OTS+ Stage 3 for winter, for now

Handling: JBR .250 RSB w/ billet brackets.

So I can see/be seen better: DDM LED for Nagare Accent lights, DDM Switchbacks Front turn signals, Osram CBI's, ADVmonster LED Fogs

To-do List: BNR S4, maybe S5...bottom end build, probably should do brakes/suspension at some point. Shooting for a 450-500whp daily driver.
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 Old 06-20-2017, 06:15 AM   #11258
 
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Originally Posted by MoMS3 View Post
Yeah not entirely sure why UR puts those stupidly long bolts in with their DP/TP. I ended up just getting shorter bolts, and honestly even the shorter ones are too long with my CS Catback.

And thank god for this forum, saved my ass on that bottom nut haha. However, I also had to get creative with the top middle nut as well, the dent they made in my V3 didn't allow for a socket until the nut was more than 40% threaded on the stud, and no wrench I had would work between the exhaust runners either. Five most furious minutes of working on the car thus far haha...luckily that stud was loose enough to remove, and I just threw the stud in a vice and threaded the nut further down so I had room for the socket to tighten the last little bit. Thought I was going to have to loosen everything up again for a min, neighbors probably thought I was murdering someone based on the "bloody screaming roar" noise that ensued haha.

Could be worse though, my old 5-cyl audi required me to fabricate a wrench to get one of the damn nuts off it's DP, had to take a box end S-wrench and cut the bottom third off, rotate it and reweld it at a funky angle to reach around and under the downpipe. And even then, it was 1/8th's of a turn for about 15 min. Reinstalling it was even more fun, took about 20 min just to get the damn thing started on the stud, on top of 15 min of tightening...
Did you reuse the the stock exhaust springs? I didnt have to shorten my bolts on my UR downpipe.

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 Old 06-20-2017, 08:33 AM   #11259
 
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Originally Posted by ryguy 3 View Post
Did you reuse the the stock exhaust springs? I didnt have to shorten my bolts on my UR downpipe.

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Yeah used stock springs in both spots, the DP to TP union wasn't an issue, however the TP to catback union needed the shorter bolts. It was definitely tighter attached to the stock CBE, now that I have the CS installed I had to pretty much compress the springs completely to get a seal. Even then I'm somewhat suprised that it isn't leaking because I could easily pull the CBE away from the donut if I pushed it towards the rear of the car.
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 Old 06-21-2017, 05:00 PM   #11260
 
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Trying to trace an engine noise and replace rear seal and inspected clutch which was replaced a while ago, maybe 10k or so. It's had a hard life lol.

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 Old 06-21-2017, 08:04 PM   #11261
 
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Originally Posted by PapaBruno View Post
You're likely referring to the nut underneath the downpipe on the firewall side, yeah? If so, the easiest way to get that one on/off is to put it back on first. Trust me. I've done the down pipe on the Speed like 5 times now.
But I definitely feel ya' on those 1/8 turns...maybe 1/4 turns if you're lucky.

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Yea one of the bottom ones, I think it might have been the engine side one though? It's a blur of frustration at this point. I put the top ones on gently to start and that obviously was a mistake. If I had to do this 4 more times I might go insane, credit to you for your apparent sanity
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 Old 06-21-2017, 08:19 PM   #11262
 
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Originally Posted by Titan View Post
Yea one of the bottom ones, I think it might have been the engine side one though? It's a blur of frustration at this point. I put the top ones on gently to start and that obviously was a mistake. If I had to do this 4 more times I might go insane, credit to you for your apparent sanity
There's alot of people around here that lend helping hands to each other and learn the tricks, usually their sanity is bought with beer...I still question it though ha
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 Old 06-21-2017, 08:21 PM   #11263
 
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Originally Posted by Titan View Post
Yea one of the bottom ones, I think it might have been the engine side one though? It's a blur of frustration at this point. I put the top ones on gently to start and that obviously was a mistake. If I had to do this 4 more times I might go insane, credit to you for your apparent sanity
Haha! Yeah, the first couple times was due to the fitment issues with the Full Race down pipe. The next was me doing the initial install of the Ultimate Racing down pipe, test pipe, and exhaust. Then took it off again recently to get easier access to the turbo for popping the S4 in. And lastly just helped a local buddy take the stock down pipe off of his gen juan. That one totally sucked. Took forever to get it off and the lower O2 sensor was pretty much locked in place. It was unreal!

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 Old 06-21-2017, 08:28 PM   #11264
 
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Originally Posted by MoMS3 View Post
Yeah not entirely sure why UR puts those stupidly long bolts in with their DP/TP. I ended up just getting shorter bolts, and honestly even the shorter ones are too long with my CS Catback.

And thank god for this forum, saved my ass on that bottom nut haha. However, I also had to get creative with the top middle nut as well, the dent they made in my V3 didn't allow for a socket until the nut was more than 40% threaded on the stud, and no wrench I had would work between the exhaust runners either. Five most furious minutes of working on the car thus far haha...luckily that stud was loose enough to remove, and I just threw the stud in a vice and threaded the nut further down so I had room for the socket to tighten the last little bit. Thought I was going to have to loosen everything up again for a min, neighbors probably thought I was murdering someone based on the "bloody screaming roar" noise that ensued haha.

Could be worse though, my old 5-cyl audi required me to fabricate a wrench to get one of the damn nuts off it's DP, had to take a box end S-wrench and cut the bottom third off, rotate it and reweld it at a funky angle to reach around and under the downpipe. And even then, it was 1/8th's of a turn for about 15 min. Reinstalling it was even more fun, took about 20 min just to get the damn thing started on the stud, on top of 15 min of tightening...
Lots of reviews complain about the crap bolts too I read now also, seems like such a simple thing to correct? I think I read about doing the bottom nuts first but I just had lost my mind after I actually got the original DP off. Glad I didn't have to fabricate something atleast....

Yea, and thank god for this forum and those who have been down these roads before. One of the major problems I didn't list before was none of my studs came out when I unbolted the stock DP. This meant no mater how I rotated or moved the DP it WOULDN'T GET OFF! I tried for a solid hour rotating this way and that and there was about 2mm not enough room. I went to the forums here and searched for "Downpipe stuck" and found a thread where someone recommended to use two nuts to remove a stud but It didn't work and I dropped a nut which wasted another hour of fruitless hunting, Then in the same "Downpipe stuck" thread someone recommended "Rage Shake". Well I shook the shyt out of that pipe and damn if it didn't come off.

Thank god for Rage Shake and MSF.


Originally Posted by Scribbles View Post
Rage Shake- It's when you shake the shit outta something because you're too pissed to care what happens

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 Old 06-22-2017, 01:30 AM   #11265
 
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Originally Posted by Titan View Post
UR Downpipe, UR Test Pipe, and ETS TMIC over past week. Probably took me 8 hours total working after work with 2 setbacks. Dropped one of the downpipe nuts and it went into the abyss never to be found again. Also I don't know if i'll ever be able to get this Down Pipe off again, the bottom corner nut got messed up some trying to tighten it using a wrench 1/4 of a turn at a time. No sockets would fit over it, too close to pipe. God that's a painful 1/4 of a hard turn at a time. The bolts I had for the TP to stock exhaust didn't have enough threads and I had to use a stack of washers to tighten.

I should count myself lucky though based on the install threads I read, with 78K miles i was able to get both oxygen sensors in and out with no problems i can see after driving around gingerly. No CEL and I really love the slight increase/change in sound, just what i wanted. I'm going to a custom tune next and try to stop adding mods for a while.... That downpipe/TP install was so painful it has used up all my wrenching desire for a good while.
Dude, exact same thing happened to me! 1/4 turn at a time, shit took forever! Hope TO GOD I never have to remove that nut..
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 Old 06-26-2017, 07:22 PM   #11266
 
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HPFP Internals are installed and working well. CS 3" intake, TIP, and transmission mount insert are in the mail!
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 Old 06-26-2017, 09:26 PM   #11267
 
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Picked up shock boots for my B8 rears. Just waiting for Swift to get their shipment of springs!
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 Old 07-01-2017, 05:51 PM   #11268
 
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After five weeks in the borrowed firefly,I cracked and picked up a new 51r battery and a new tb. Used the jbr battery tray too. Also installed the corksport intercooler and it's weird bc I shift out of 2nd sooner but I rarely hear the turbo spool up at all. And it spooled nice and loud before. My initial mileage has improved since I just got it back Thursday so time will tell but it's perfect weather to have her back.
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 Old 07-03-2017, 12:21 PM   #11269
 
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I got an ABS Pump module code...29015 miles on my 2010 ms3..wtf. Anyone deal with this
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 Old 07-04-2017, 03:03 PM   #11270
 
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Replaced my Forge v2 with a GFB. Fixed my jerkeyness, flutter and my tip in richness. The forge was awesome with the ko4 but when i went BT it was not cutting it.
The GFB has a much larger opening allowing more air to escape. That was what i need now the BT is flowing so much more air!

I tried VTA and i laughed so hard that i almost crashed... i couldn't imagine having a VTA all the time i guess its a rice thing.
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 Old 07-04-2017, 05:13 PM   #11271
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Originally Posted by 5doorsoffury View Post
Replaced my Forge v2 with a GFB. Fixed my jerkeyness, flutter and my tip in richness. The forge was awesome with the ko4 but when i went BT it was not cutting it.
The GFB has a much larger opening allowing more air to escape. That was what i need now the BT is flowing so much more air!

I tried VTA and i laughed so hard that i almost crashed... i couldn't imagine having a VTA all the time i guess its a rice thing.
Why did you laugh? lol

My GFB is pretty awesome with my S4.

I don't mind the VTA on mine, sounds like a whistle when it does blow off.



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 Old 07-04-2017, 06:13 PM   #11272
 
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Originally Posted by MS3Shadow View Post
Why did you laugh?



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Resurc 4 life! I broke my vta cherry and was like oh so thats whats it like.
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 Old 07-04-2017, 06:16 PM   #11273
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Originally Posted by 5doorsoffury View Post
Resurc 4 life! I broke my vta cherry and was like oh so thats whats it like.
It's also fun when it makes your exhaust afterfire when you shift.

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 Old 07-04-2017, 06:24 PM   #11274
 
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Switched back to a new e-focus mount and put a fresh CS insert in the TMM. More solid feeling shifts but clutch engage feels different, almost gotta re learn the engagement point.
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2012 MS3 w/Tech Package

Engine: CS SRI/Tip, AutoTech internals, Damond Banjo Bolt, CFM Mount, CS Racepipe, Resonator delete, Tuned by FREEKTUNE

Trans: CS insert, CS bushings, Damond Shifter Plate

Suspension: Koni Orange with CS springs, Konig Controls 17x7.5 with 225/45 Conti DW's

Appearance: Plasti Dipped Emblems, Bumper Guard, CS Steering wheel/Shift knob/E-brake handle,dumb stickers
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 Old 07-06-2017, 05:05 PM   #11275
 
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What did i do to my ride today?

I poped a coupler and a dip stick on a fresh map at the same time! After picking my teeth out of the steering wheel I went for a refreshing round of off road wrenching in the ghetto to end the day! I always keep a tool bag with me after the first time shit went south. Installed my old modified pcv plate. I tee'd it into my VC cc and redid the pipes. I was enjoying my ignorant bliss about not venting my CC under boost until today...
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PTE 5858 Vband .82ar // Tial EWG // CPE Mani // 3" Turboback // JBR Under route hot pipe // MD ST mani+spacer with PI // Siemens 60lb Injectors // Splitsecond inj controller // JBR 88 duro RMM/TMM // MD PMM // TWM Full replacement shifter // JBR CC // Autotech FP Internals // SP63 SB/Manley rods SP63 pro pistons // Treadstone FMIC TR824 // FoMoCo Tranny Jizz // South Bend Clutch Stage 3 enduro// GFB Respons // FJ 4" intake // WMI 100% VPM1 // Air Lift 1000 in rear // N2MB WOT BOX
Rfinkle tune in progress

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 Old 07-11-2017, 08:21 PM   #11276
 
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Finally got some badass tint. This Texas heat is unrelenting but with some tint it's almost bearable. Also my auto lights and wipers don't work anymore lol wtf
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2012 MS3 w/Tech Package

Engine: CS SRI/Tip, AutoTech internals, Damond Banjo Bolt, CFM Mount, CS Racepipe, Resonator delete, Tuned by FREEKTUNE

Trans: CS insert, CS bushings, Damond Shifter Plate

Suspension: Koni Orange with CS springs, Konig Controls 17x7.5 with 225/45 Conti DW's

Appearance: Plasti Dipped Emblems, Bumper Guard, CS Steering wheel/Shift knob/E-brake handle,dumb stickers
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 Old 07-14-2017, 01:58 PM   #11277
 
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Replaced the alternator with a used one. Original was making this 'wah wah wah' noise and then it started making metal crunching sounds. Pulley was wobbling under heavy load. All is peachy for meow! Pain in the ass to reinstall and that heat shield/ducting puts up a decent fight.
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 Old 07-14-2017, 06:06 PM   #11278
 
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Originally Posted by AveryPlaysBass View Post
Finally got some badass tint. This Texas heat is unrelenting but with some tint it's almost bearable. Also my auto lights and wipers don't work anymore lol wtf
Did you get a windshield tint "bar" at the top? It may be blocking the sensors behind the rear view mirror stock/mount. Had the same issue when I installed a dash cam near the top of the windshield not noticing there's a sensor behind the mirror.
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 Old 07-14-2017, 11:01 PM   #11279
 
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Bumping this to post that I installed my B8s with Swift Springs (Thanks RPM!), shaved the front tabs to make the ride height level, new oem top hats and bearings, jeep shock boots/dust shields for the rear, and greased up the noisy RSB. I replaced my one year old KWv1s in which all 4 corners were leaking oil. I was able to compress the kws by hand and they didn't rebound at all lol. Anyway, this new setup feels just as harsh/stiff on bumpy highway roads but feels stiffer when turning in. This may just be a placebo effect due to new parts and a mixture of old blown shocks vs new b8s.

This is my third mazda where I went through different setups and hands down these are my favourite in terms of handling. Sadly, the KWv1s in my opinion are slightly better due to the fact I had 0 wheel gap with them. I was running stretched tires on my 18x9 weds, so now I might go 245/40 to get a tiny bit of stretch (to "stiffen the sidewall" and make turn-in feel sharper).

Other setups:
Gen 1 2.0 Sedan: Stock, Sportlines + Koni Yellows
Gen 3 2.0 Hatch: Stock, BC Coils
Gen 2 Speed: Stock, KWv1, B8 + Swift
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 Old 07-17-2017, 06:12 PM   #11280
 
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Installed CS springs/struts with the help of my friend. After a Florida rain delay, have to say they are the perfect height and what should have come with from factory


Sent while probably pooping
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