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 Old 12-13-2012, 07:13 PM   #1521
 
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DDM 6K HIDs and Turbosmart Plumb Kompact BPV
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 Old 12-13-2012, 08:21 PM   #1522
 
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Resonator delete



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 Old 12-13-2012, 08:27 PM   #1523
 
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Should've just had them make you a test pipe while they were at it.
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 Old 12-13-2012, 08:31 PM   #1524
 
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Originally Posted by El_Diablo View Post
Should've just had them make you a test pipe while they were at it.
Money is tight and this is what I could do for now. $30 job
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 Old 12-13-2012, 09:15 PM   #1525
 
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Been there done that.... on the other side of things, if you wanted to save up I was able to get an ebay DP for around 150 and had a coworkers husband throw some extra welds on it for $25... gotta love a full DP with nice beefy tig welds for $175
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 Old 12-13-2012, 10:23 PM   #1526
 
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Ya but stainless bell mouth= fail. Cast is better.

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 Old 12-13-2012, 10:40 PM   #1527
 
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Originally Posted by CrawlingMS3 View Post
Money is tight and this is what I could do for now. $30 job
Looks pretty nice, I've been thinking about doing that myself. How much better does it sound?
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 Old 12-13-2012, 11:15 PM   #1528
 
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Originally Posted by CrawlingMS3 View Post
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so that's what the seconday cat looks like.. huh...
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 Old 12-14-2012, 06:05 AM   #1529
 
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Originally Posted by Evan002 View Post
Looks pretty nice, I've been thinking about doing that myself. How much better does it sound?
It's not TOO noticable but you can tell there is a difference. The sound is a bit lower and it gurgles when idling. Definitely sounds better when revving. I had my friend get in it and rev it, I was impressed
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 Old 12-14-2012, 06:55 AM   #1530
 
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Originally Posted by superdave2335 View Post
Ya but stainless bell mouth= fail. Cast is better.

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Do you have any proof to back up that a cast bell mouth makes more power than a stainless bell mouth? Same car, same day, IAT, BAT, coolant temp, oil temp and so on? And if so, what is the difference on a catless DP? 1-2hp?That’s not even nearly enough to justify cost or even show a marked gain as its within dyno scaling abilities and inconsistencies.

Now if you're talking about cracks or broken pipes. That is purely due to welding or flex pipe issues. If you don’t have a flex, the metal will fatigue and typically the metal will be weakest right next to a weld, that’s an oversight issue, not an issue with stainless. As far as cracking at the welds... typically that is just a poorly welded piece which, if you check the welds (and know what you’re doing) and have a good welder touch up any potential problem areas you won’t have a problem.

My only gripe with my ebay DP is that the inside of the bell mouth wasn't welded which will cause excessive heat buildup on the outer turbo flange weld as well as turbulence in the system. I had mine welded in this location and I highly doubt I will ever have an issue.

Either way, every car part has a service life, under extreme conditions anything can and will fail. Its all just in the time it takes said part to fail. There are more than enough examples of stainless turbo manifolds (which see higher temps than the downpipe) that are working perfectly in many performance cars today as well as plenty of cast failures.
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 Old 12-14-2012, 07:07 AM   #1531
 
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Agreed ^

Anyway so this is what the final outcome ended up looking like. I think its a mix between Salad fingers and or those stupid emo teddy bears. But I like it either way.



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 Old 12-14-2012, 07:10 AM   #1532
 
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Originally Posted by CrawlingMS3 View Post
Resonator delete



Sent from my iPu
I did that also. Took the same approach with my test pipe. Saves a lot of money and you will not feel a difference in aftermarket tp vs redneck chop and weld tp. I've tried both. Only problem with chopping and welding is you'll have to re chop and reweld the cat back on when you go to sell the car.

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 Old 12-14-2012, 07:30 AM   #1533
 
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Originally Posted by Travis View Post
I did that also. Took the same approach with my test pipe. Saves a lot of money and you will not feel a difference in aftermarket tp vs redneck chop and weld tp. I've tried both. Only problem with chopping and welding is you'll have to re chop and reweld the cat back on when you go to sell the car.

- Travis
I'll probably end up putting a tp on at some point also
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 Old 12-14-2012, 10:11 AM   #1534
 
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Originally Posted by CrawlingMS3 View Post
I'll probably end up putting a tp on at some point also
Think I spent 11$ on my resonator and 8$ on my tp. But I did all the work myself so in don't know how much it would be to have someone do the work.

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 Old 12-14-2012, 10:33 AM   #1535
 
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Originally Posted by Travis View Post
Think I spent 11$ on my resonator and 8$ on my tp. But I did all the work myself so in don't know how much it would be to have someone do the work.

- Travis
And all you did was cut the 2nd cat off and weld a pipe there?
How's it sound?
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 Old 12-14-2012, 10:44 AM   #1536
 
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Sounds pretty good that way, subtle yet you can still hear it. I love the decel pops and burbles.
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 Old 12-14-2012, 10:46 AM   #1537
 
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Originally Posted by El_Diablo View Post
Sounds pretty good that way, subtle yet you can still hear it. I love the decel pops and burbles.
Sounds good which way?
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 Old 12-14-2012, 10:52 AM   #1538
 
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2nd cat and res. delete... if I get a chance ill get a vid.
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 Old 12-14-2012, 11:07 AM   #1539
 
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Originally Posted by El_Diablo View Post
2nd cat and res. delete... if I get a chance ill get a vid.
Please do. Did you put a tp on or just cut the cat off and weld a pipe on?
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 Old 12-14-2012, 11:08 AM   #1540
 
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Cut and weld.
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 Old 12-14-2012, 11:15 AM   #1541
 
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Originally Posted by El_Diablo View Post
Cut and weld.
If you could sometime get a video of that sound, that would be perfect
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 Old 12-14-2012, 11:36 AM   #1542
 
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I'll try to when I leave work tonight.
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 Old 12-14-2012, 01:33 PM   #1543
 
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Originally Posted by El_Diablo View Post

Do you have any proof to back up that a cast bell mouth makes more power than a stainless bell mouth? Same car, same day, IAT, BAT, coolant temp, oil temp and so on? And if so, what is the difference on a catless DP? 1-2hp?That’s not even nearly enough to justify cost or even show a marked gain as its within dyno scaling abilities and inconsistencies.

Now if you're talking about cracks or broken pipes. That is purely due to welding or flex pipe issues. If you don’t have a flex, the metal will fatigue and typically the metal will be weakest right next to a weld, that’s an oversight issue, not an issue with stainless. As far as cracking at the welds... typically that is just a poorly welded piece which, if you check the welds (and know what you’re doing) and have a good welder touch up any potential problem areas you won’t have a problem.

My only gripe with my ebay DP is that the inside of the bell mouth wasn't welded which will cause excessive heat buildup on the outer turbo flange weld as well as turbulence in the system. I had mine welded in this location and I highly doubt I will ever have an issue.

Either way, every car part has a service life, under extreme conditions anything can and will fail. Its all just in the time it takes said part to fail. There are more than enough examples of stainless turbo manifolds (which see higher temps than the downpipe) that are working perfectly in many performance cars today as well as plenty of cast failures.
Thin bell mouth after a long time can warp can crack not just on the welds either but right in the metal. I'm just throwing the two sense out there that you can get a cast bell mouth that will not break for a couple hundred more and will last as long as that damn car will. You look at a cast bell mouth dp to a cheap eBay dp and you will see the difference. Don't get soo much salt in your britches trying to defend your cheap eBay stuff. What I always hear is if there is anything worth doing, it's worth doing it right......also if ya can't afford to mod and fix cars and need to go cheap status then maybe you should rethink modding all together.

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 Old 12-14-2012, 01:40 PM   #1544
 
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Pumped up Yo!
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 Old 12-14-2012, 01:56 PM   #1545
 
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Originally Posted by superdave2335 View Post
Thin bell mouth after a long time can warp can crack not just on the welds either but right in the metal. I'm just throwing the two sense out there that you can get a cast bell mouth that will not break for a couple hundred more and will last as long as that damn car will. You look at a cast bell mouth dp to a cheap eBay dp and you will see the difference. Don't get soo much salt in your britches trying to defend your cheap eBay stuff. What I always hear is if there is anything worth doing, it's worth doing it right......also if ya can't afford to mod and fix cars and need to go cheap status then maybe you should rethink modding all together.

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I agree with you on the cheap mods and doubted the quality of this part but after seeing it in person I'm not worried. I highly doubt I will have issues. I'm not one to mod cheaply or throw money blindly. I like quality, its the reason I went autotech over KMD, CPE stage 2 over inserts, accessport over hypertech. Many other forum members are running ebay downpipes without a single issue and most of them haven't done the additional welding that I have.

Warpage? maybe if you dont tighten it down. The flanges are 1/2" thick and the stainless tube is plenty thick as well as thick walled o2 bungs. Where are the people saying they've had the actual stainless fail?

Couple hundred more? I spent $175 shipped and welded... why would I want to double my money out of pocket if this will work fine for what I do with my car? Sorry but I just don't see the logic behind that.
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 Old 12-14-2012, 02:05 PM   #1546
 
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Originally Posted by El_Diablo View Post
I agree with you on the cheap mods and doubted the quality of this part but after seeing it in person I'm not worried. I highly doubt I will have issues. I'm not one to mod cheaply or throw money blindly. I like quality, its the reason I went autotech over KMD, CPE stage 2 over inserts, accessport over hypertech. Many other forum members are running ebay downpipes without a single issue and most of them haven't done the additional welding that I have.

Warpage? maybe if you dont tighten it down. The flanges are 1/2" thick and the stainless tube is plenty thick as well as thick walled o2 bungs. Where are the people saying they've had the actual stainless fail?

Couple hundred more? I spent $175 shipped and welded... why would I want to double my money out of pocket if this will work fine for what I do with my car? Sorry but I just don't see the logic behind that.
Remember all in time the shit will get weaker is what I'm saying. 5-10 years down the road. I'm all about longevity. Something that will last til my kids owns my ride. Not to mention I only want to change that dp once. Lets say it does fail then you good sir are gonna have more scarred knuckles sitting there saying "fuck I should've just bought a good one, now I just got a piece of scrap metal. Haven't seen our rides have issue yet but time will tell. Give it a few years and they will come. End of discussion.

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 Old 12-14-2012, 02:31 PM   #1547
 
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Like I said, its all in the end plan... Even if i get 5-7 years out of it, that'll probably be longer than I own the car.
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 Old 12-14-2012, 05:20 PM   #1548
 
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Finally got around to install my pilot sports today.
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 Old 12-14-2012, 06:35 PM   #1549
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I wouldn't give two shits if I had to swap my ebay dp out in five years. Takes me an hour to get bitch off. And if your active in nator guess what. Your doing it for some one else.
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 Old 12-14-2012, 08:12 PM   #1550
 
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Boom son. Never though some extra weight could feel soooo good.

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 Old 12-14-2012, 08:14 PM   #1551
 
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Originally Posted by dantes5823 View Post
I wouldn't give two shits if I had to swap my ebay dp out in five years. Takes me an hour to get bitch off. And if your active in nator guess what. Your doing it for some one else.
I guess to each their own.

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 Old 12-14-2012, 08:23 PM   #1552
 
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Ill get the exhaust vid up as soon as I get home, sitting in the er with my wife right now.
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 Old 12-14-2012, 08:27 PM   #1553
 
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Originally Posted by CrawlingMS3 View Post
And all you did was cut the 2nd cat off and weld a pipe there?
How's it sound?
I have a resonator delete with a tp. It definitely gives it a deeper tone. I'd rather do that than spend 700 on a cbe. You can definitely tell the difference in sound though.

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 Old 12-14-2012, 08:37 PM   #1554
 
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Mine is more.of.a what have you do.e to your speed in a week. Installed Cobb ap. Oder internals will be.Monday. installed cobb tih that I git a sweet deal on used here. Installed a magnaflow cbe with the sweet vortex discount coupon $450 cbe for the win. Also got a ur down pipe and tp coming my way.

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 Old 12-14-2012, 10:40 PM   #1555
 
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Originally Posted by superdave2335 View Post
Remember all in time the shit will get weaker is what I'm saying. 5-10 years down the road. I'm all about longevity. Something that will last til my kids owns my ride. Not to mention I only want to change that dp once. Lets say it does fail then you good sir are gonna have more scarred knuckles sitting there saying "fuck I should've just bought a good one, now I just got a piece of scrap metal. Haven't seen our rides have issue yet but time will tell. Give it a few years and they will come. End of discussion.

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You're doing it wrong if you're modding your car now with plans for it 10 years from now. If you want this car or any for that matter to be worth while to you in 10 years you better keep it stock. The only parts supplier thinking 10 years down the line is OEM...just saying.
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 Old 12-15-2012, 12:36 AM   #1556
 
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Originally Posted by GODspeed7 View Post
What the fuck is this shit???


Tapatalk LIKE A BOSS!
Yes I was fucking around with a paint app.

Originally Posted by Darth_Nuruodo View Post
Half assed 'shop job with too much lens flare and a poor job of coloring within the lines.
I am not a photo shop expert. I was fucking around. You Jews take this shit serious.
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 Old 12-15-2012, 01:09 AM   #1557
 
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Originally Posted by smr87 View Post

You're doing it wrong if you're modding your car now with plans for it 10 years from now. If you want this car or any for that matter to be worth while to you in 10 years you better keep it stock. The only parts supplier thinking 10 years down the line is OEM...just saying.
Ya. Umm need I say dsm? Rx7? Speed protege? The fucking civic for Christ sake!!! You think these cars are gonna fall off the face of the earth or go to the damn crusher in five years or what? Don't be such a greenie.

Shooting this ISH from my iPhone using forCUMrunner

Also just a quick addition. Take a 2006 speed6 for example. Almost 7 years old an to be completely honest the tuning and modding aspect of this platform has taken shape only in the past few years. Talk to some of the originals on here and get some insight. I hope your genpu lives to see 2016 at the rate your speaking of. I've been a part of the zzb club. I hope you can dodge that bullet. Take care wise one.

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shout outs to -Rob, DJ, Nishan, William, John. couldn't have done it with out your guys advice and assistance. thanks.


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 Old 12-15-2012, 07:52 AM   #1558
 
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Originally Posted by PPD369Speed3 View Post
I have a resonator delete with a tp. It definitely gives it a deeper tone. I'd rather do that than spend 700 on a cbe. You can definitely tell the difference in sound though.

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Same... removed the resonator a while back and have a Sure TP. The sound with the stock muffler is a hell of a lot louder and deeper than stock w/res and 2nd cat. It's loud enough, in fact, that I'm a bit worried about how loud it will be with certain exhaust systems.

My car is louder and sounds throatier than a car with just a FM cat back exhaust, for example.... Hell, it sounds like I'm trying to race even when I'm just gently rolling on accelerator.

I was about to order the UR or OBX system, but then realized that I'd probably be "that guy" with the overly loud car... so, I'm undecided again. lol
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 Old 12-15-2012, 02:49 PM   #1559
 
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Originally Posted by jseams View Post

Same... removed the resonator a while back and have a Sure TP. The sound with the stock muffler is a hell of a lot louder and deeper than stock w/res and 2nd cat. It's loud enough, in fact, that I'm a bit worried about how loud it will be with certain exhaust systems.

My car is louder and sounds throatier than a car with just a FM cat back exhaust, for example.... Hell, it sounds like I'm trying to race even when I'm just gently rolling on accelerator.

I was about to order the UR or OBX system, but then realized that I'd probably be "that guy" with the overly loud car... so, I'm undecided again. lol

Mine with catless turboxs dp/tp with stock catback and all resonators deleted.

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That fucker better play sound. Damn youtube

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Manley rods, cp-e stage 2 pistons, arp studs, fullRace exhaust mani,PNP stock IM, TurboXS catless DP/TP/CBE, TurboXS FMIC, hybrid boost control setup using MBC/EBCS, HTP 4" intake system w/MAF block off plate, 3.5" blow thru system fabbed by me,3 bar map, SNOW Stage 2 W/Direct port meth, HKS SSQV4 full vta, JBR 80duro RMM/TMM/PMM, JBR Stage2 OCC, EGR delete, TWM Full Replacement, perm butt plug knob, JBR SB, KMD V2, NGK's, perm pcv plate.

shout outs to -Rob, DJ, Nishan, William, John. couldn't have done it with out your guys advice and assistance. thanks.


Last edited by superdave2335; 12-15-2012 at 02:49 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 12-15-2012, 03:46 PM   #1560
 
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Originally Posted by superdave2335 View Post
Ya. Umm need I say dsm? Rx7? Speed protege? The fucking civic for Christ sake!!! You think these cars are gonna fall off the face of the earth or go to the damn crusher in five years or what? Don't be such a greenie.

Shooting this ISH from my iPhone using forCUMrunner

Also just a quick addition. Take a 2006 speed6 for example. Almost 7 years old an to be completely honest the tuning and modding aspect of this platform has taken shape only in the past few years. Talk to some of the originals on here and get some insight. I hope your genpu lives to see 2016 at the rate your speaking of. I've been a part of the zzb club. I hope you can dodge that bullet. Take care wise one.

Shooting this ISH from my iPhone using forCUMrunner
My car might zzb, but it certantly won't be from a piece of Chinese pipe attached to my turbo. If it cracks so be it, I can buy 3 of them for the price of a CNT and 6 for the price of a Cobb. I don't believe in buying a product for substantially more than a comparible piece because it might become an issue down the road. As I said before which you apparently didn't understand, if this really concerned me I would have left the car stock and I advise others to do it as well if they are worried about their car breaking from mods. I think your logic is flawed, and remember I am the wise one as you so eloquently put it so I must be right.

Love you sugar tits.
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