What should i buy next. Help me beat a friend in a VW
 

So im new to mazda's. Long time drag racer of mustangs.

Yes i have searched, and coming up with different things.

Looking to beat a friend down the quarter mile. He owns a GTI. Its stage 2 and makes about 250 WHP.

My car is bone stock right now but i have already ordered

Corksport intake with TIP
RMM
cobb AP
Auto tech FP internals

Got a little more money i can spend. What else do you guys think i should order to be sure i can show him whats up at the track.

well, you have a good list of beginning mods. I'd say next downpipe, intercooler, and either start reading up on Albilor's tuning guide, or contact one of the tune specialists this forum has to offer.

But to be honest, you can beat him with what you have listed already if you have any ability to drive.

race pipe up to $179

Race pipe + e-tune

So you can beat him going in reverse.

with those it should really only be driver mod at that point

With a proper tune, you'll already stomp him with your mods.


But before you tune, I'd say buy a used upgraded intercooler and ebay DP...instant stomp and 6 cars by the time you shift..

With those mods, it's a drivers race to be honest...feather that clutch and don't burn 2 much rubber and you will win easy

Well i am new to fwd at the track. But id consider my self a better driver than most so i plan to get a few passes behind me before we race.

He aint no slum though. He has been racing his VW for a while. Ive seen it go 13.6.

So would a test pipe or catless downpipe be a better investment first? excuse me if they are the same.

Catless DP

Make sure your FP internals are in prior to, and get a solid tune. If you guys are throwing down at the track ...then good tires would be a priority.

The are different or one in the same it depends on your plan. long down pipe is racepipe and down pipe. Race pipe removes second cat after the stock downpipe.

Stock....

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I was hoping for mods that i could run on a ots tune.

Def plan to get a good tune in the next few months, but only wanted to pay for it once. Get a few more mods then get the tune.

If i cant do that with any kind of race pipe, maybe i just run him with the mods i have already ordered.

Not even going to put any of the mods on before i install the fuel pump internals. Rather be safe than sorry, car only has 300 miles on it

How much does a good tune normally cost? Idk id some of the guys here can do it by data logging, but at least from what im use to... a good tune runs about 400

Cobb Tuning here in Plano charges 400.

Some guys here charge 75-200.

It's up to you who you go to though.

funny that its "stage 2" and has slightly more whp than ms3's make stock

What kind of gti is it?
I had an 05 1.8t, never modded it, but learned a lot on vwvortex about what they are capable of, and what they need

You'll find more value in a tune by any of these guys than ANY part. Dollar for dollar a tune will net more, and I guarantee just an AP and a tune would embarass your friend. @Bucker is straight voodoo, but all are geniuses. Shoot them a PM. If you wait, you'll wish you hadn't.

With probably the least knowledge here, I'm gonna throw in my two cents. I bought my car with mods and added a few more including internals, rmm, and Cobb app. I'm old and bought the car because it gets better mileage than my Tundra, but I didn't want to die trying to pass someone, soooo....that said....I think your biggest problem will be getting any traction in first and second and maybe third. Therefore, I would recommend the JBR three pack of motor mounts. Personally, if I hadn't been whacked by taxes, I would have the other two on my car by now.:slomo:

Piss in his gas tank. Are you really worried about beating a GTI? I would get the ap first, set the stage 1 map with no hardware mods, then setup LC/FFS and start practicing! Practice will assure you the win more than any 20or 30 hp gain will.

The proper way of controlling traction is with a combination of a) driver skill b) good tires c) Launch control and d) proper setup of the Boost Comp and APP tables in ATR to help control wheelspin in 1st and 2nd. When you have all these setup and working in proper harmony very little will beat you off the line. I'd still piss in his gas tank though.

+1 for pissing in his gas tank.

Then piss in his mail box after you beat him....2wice!

Then bang his gf ftw.

Then his mom....

Thanks for all the info. Ill do some searching and contact some guys about tunes.

TO everybody that said i already have enough to run him down, i was just concerned because ive seen his car go 13.6 already. Its not as slow as most would think for having that power

yeah, you can beat him with those mods you listed. add in a test pipe (or downpipe) with an e-tune, and it's not even a question.

in my opinion, you should get a catless test pipe if you don't want to spend a ton of money. with the mods you already ordered, plus a test pipe ($150) and an etune ($100-$200), you'll be making great power. if you have the money to get a long downpipe, go for it. but seriously, don't worry about waiting to get an etune. it's better for your car, it's not expensive, and it'll only cost $50 to modify your tune down the road if you get more mods.

I would add E85 to your list with a proper tune.

Yeah i am trying to keep cost down. I can afford the test pipe and e tune though. My concern was getting the e tune now if i could get away with an OTS MAP. I didnt realize it was only 50 bucks to modify the tune if i add other mods later.

Looking into the test pipe now, and going to PM a few guys about tunes.

Is the test pipe a pita to install?

Test pipe is pretty easy. If you have any e85 stations around you should get a tune with a couple gallons of it

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yeah man, if you want to keep cost down and still get a lot of power, go TP + etune. Ultimate Racing is the TP I bought and I like it a lot. the install, well, it should have been easy but my OEM bolts were a PITA to get off. then, the bolts UR sent with the TP were way too big. so we had to go to Walmart and get new bolts. $0.99 though. @Captain KR did my install, i believe his answer would be, "yes, it was a PITA." haha but it really just came down to getting those bolts off so the stocker came off.

yeah man, etune is the shit. no reason not to do it once you get your other stuff installed. you'll at least get your MAF cal going and a base tune. OTS will work fine too, but if you have $100-$200, just get the e-tune.

Just read the walkthrough to changing it. Looks pretty easy. I have air so none of this should be a problem.

Looks like upgrading the fuel pump will be the hardest part.

Plan to install the TP, RMM, TIP, SRI, and fuel pump internals all the same day. Run the stage 1 OTS map to get it going, then order the e tune.

The test pipe is not really going affect the drive ability of the car with the OTS map will it, i already found the map i need on the cobb website.

Then later down the road when i got more money ill looking into intercooler, downpipe and get it re tuned

with the TP and internals, you can run Stage 2 OTS map. no point in running the Stage 1 map if both those are installed.

AH ok i was just reading and it said

Intended for otherwise stock MAZDASPEED3 vehicle with a COBB DP with one
high flow catalytic converter, a cat-back exhaust, a supported "Intake" with TIH, and an upgraded CDFP ONLY. 93
or 94 octane fuel. Boost Targets: ~19psi peak boost pressure tapering down to ~18psi by the 6700 RPM redline,
+/- 1.5psi.

So being that the actual down pipe and cbw is still stock it will be aight with stage 2?

^yes. Thats what i have. Did stage 2 no problem.

well, the test pipe replaces "half" of the down pipe. the down pipe is made up of a upper and lower part. each has a catalytic converter. the test pipe replaces ONLY the lower portion of the down pipe. so if you get a catless test pipe (which you should), then you are removing a cat, which leaves one remaining cat in the upper DP.

the Cobb DP is a long down pipe. meaning it replaces the upper AND lower portion. it also only has one cat in it's upper section. in other words:

a catted long down pipe = stock upper DP + catless test pipe

as for the catback, that shit doesn't matter. stock is fine. you can find more info about hte downpipe in:

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...-thread-99627/

and a good diagram to show the different parts. #1 = upper DP, #2 = test pipe

http://www.streetunit.com/photos/MS3Exhaust.jpg

Gotcha. Thanks for all the info. Ordering the catless test pipe today.

Just wanted to say thanks to every one who provided info.

Got everything installed this weekend.

The catless test pipe and RMM were a joke to isntall.Took me no time at all with air. Just wished the bolts provided would have been threaded the entire way. They werent, and i ran out of threads so i had to washer it up a bit.

The CAI, TIP, and auto tech internals were pretty easy too.

Car feels much better now after all the mods. Actually sounds like a turbo car now too. All this done with only 700 miles on the car.

Think i might have the itch to buy some more parts, going to get an e tune first though.

Internals pretty simple?

Yes they are.

Yep, first time i ever did it. Took a buddy and i a little over an hour. Having done it once now we could prob do them alot quicker.

Just make sure u have the correct bit to get the fuel pump off

Nice, I'll make sure to find it before we start lol!

You guys are funny. Bench racinf is gay as fuck. race him already.
Some of you guys dont know abour vws.all they need isgood fuel and good race map with more timing and car is a beast. Most guys dont take it that far, they just slap a big turbo and call it a day.
Theres stock motor stock k04 trapping 120 with just 3bolt ons and 112 fuel. Cars best et was 11.87