Why bother with TMIC???
 

Just a quick small rant. After doing my 3rd auto cross today I reallized and actually saw what a huge difference there is between a fmic and a tmic. Last year I did one auto x event while having a ets tmic and holy BATs batman! I was in the 180s while waiting in line, granted the ambient temps were high 70s. Today was in the 50s and with my tr8 I never got above 118 and as soon as I started moving it dropped to the low 70s and that was on all 10 runs. The core ALWAYS stay cold to the touch. After sitting in traffic I get home and the core is actually cold. I couldn't even touch the ets at at auto x or after standing in traffic. I am still on a ko4, but I can't believe there even dissolutions tmic vs fmic. It's night and day, and for a few hundred dollars it's a no brainier to what you get.

Thanks for reading :fyhn:

TMIC and Meth. The way to go

All i race is sushi. Nce about underhood temps when I'm on the highway.

My ets tmic was a good price new, direct from ets.
The fmic kit I want is more then double what I paid.

Anywhere you're sitting still they suck, but they still reduce pumping losses and allow for a bit more boost on the highway.

That said... even my upgraded TMIC didn't keep my BATs down like a FMIC for sushi runs. Peak temperatures after a 2-3-4 pull go up ~12F on the TR8, and the TMIC was 30F best case scenario.

cool story, bro
tell it again

I think a tmic is a great choice for someone who is not auto crossing or drag racing. In your circumstance, yes a fmic is a better choice. You can not completely dismiss tmics as they have their place.

bro, do you even lift?

I don't auto x much, a few times a year. But any type of traffic and a tmic is blazing hot, after highway pulls my ets was always blazing hot. Even in traffic with a fmic as soon as you start moving the bats drop like crazy. Whenever I saw arguments prior to going the fmic route, ppl would always say that there is noticeable lag, that the temps areny much different on a ko4, those people never had front mounts in their life. The lag is barely noticeable and the bats aren't in the same ballpark. Reality>graphs

I'm with you entirely. No difference at all in seat of the pants spool times compared to TMIC.

Keeps bats very low. I'm on a Cobb FMIC, (wanted to keep crash bar) and not put an aftermarket one on.

Meth is the equalizer. All the FMIC guys, if you run Meth, is it still a benefit? Last thread by @Enki; was talking about needing some BATs to run well

Because TMIC is cheaper. I got my CPE used for $150.

I'll eventually upgrade to a FMIC but not before I switch to a BT. I intend on getting tuned on a 3076ewg with stock catbcak and CPE TMIC.

While I won't argue that FMIC is a better choice if you AutoX or Drag race a lot. But I have an ETS TMIC and just spray it with water after every run. Last AutoX is was 75 out and my BATs never went above 135. Takes a little more effort and planning but it can be delt with.

Only on E85.

Edit:
My situation is drastically different from pretty much everyone else.

While I agree with people saying it is good for Auto X and Drags, there is also a downside to it. How many times have you seen people saying they blew a coupler or can't find a boost leak because they have so much piping?
I find a lot of people choose to go for a TMIC for ease of use, nearly half the price of a FMIC, next to 0% chance of a boost leak or a tube blowing off.
And people who go BT add a supplementary fuel most times anyways. I for example am going BNR S3 and I'm sticking with my CS TMIC and just going to add Meth, I won't have any trouble with BAT's at all ( even here in Australia where it's not uncommon for a cool summers day to hit 110F)

So in short; TMIC with Meth will beat a FMIC any day in more categories then one.

T-bolt clamps will solve any possible issue of blowing couplers mate. 20 dollar fix for drastically lower bat's, win. I mean, I get what youre saying about not wanting lag, but who here actualpy boosts under 3k? If you do, prepare to be flamed. In fact, switching your boost reference for the ebcs to the manifold almost entirely makes up for lost spool time, unless youre running some stupid big ar housing and 20lb wheel, in which case wtf does it matter.

I disagree with the T-Bolt clamps, I installed them with my new TMIC, found that they were not making a proper seal at all, giving me a massive boost leak. Went ahead and bought 4 new ones; Same thing happened. So I went ahead and got a worm drive clamp and solved everything! I will always use Worm Drives now.

As for Lag, it is so un-noticeable with a FMIC I wouldn't even bring it into the equation. And never anywhere did I say about boosting under 3K.

But My point remains that I just don't think a FMIC is better then a TMIC with meth, except for in certain situations. But hey, that's just my $0.02

Im not trying to call you a liar, something must have been wrong. Either the coupler was way too big for the pipe or the clamp was, cause tbopts dont bumch up couplers like worm clamps. Ive litterally used them hundreds of times, and so has every race team ever, with out any problem.
On another note, by the time you factor in the cost of that meth kit, the fmic is now cheaper.

How many people here have problems with meth...a lot more then people with fmic, actually not even close. Meth is riskier and you'll have a lot more hassle and problems then I will with a fmic. price wise will be about the same. Reliability/safety outweigh the risks. How many guys with bt running a fmic vs tmic with meth? I'd say 8 out of 10

The point he was making is that with a bt you will need fuel to max it out So you have to buy a meth kit anyway.

Or e85. The point he is making is fmic has flaws. Point I am making is meth has a lot more flaws

I pulled my FMIC out and am going TMIC because I wanted to get rid of all the piping and I'm going to use meth and/or E85.

Had FMIC; learned that there are tradeoffs, i.e. more leak prone, slight throttle lag, higher coolant temps. Went back to TMIC + Methanol going on 2 years solid. 0 issues in probably 50+ gallons of water/meth over about 40k miles.

Your arguments are not based in fact and are pure opinion. You can always run a conservative tune with meth injection if reliability is a concern. No power gains, but safe and much more consistent power over temp.

I have read about meth injection system failing, I haven't read where it brought the whole engine down over my 3+ years on here. Like me, you can add a failsafe with a boost cut option in case spray stops. You can also add a pressure switch so the pump doesn't start on its own if it malfunctions.

8/10... :rolleyes:

Lol let's agree to disagree then? This is some contentious philosophical shit

fact are all that matter on MSF not ricer math.

LOL I had a similar problem on my sr20det.. It was the pipe because it wasn't beaded/lipped.. A regular clamp worked better than the t-bolt