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 Old 04-10-2015, 05:44 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by Cheapspeed View Post
There's a trick to the MS6 downpipe. Just rotate the driveshaft and it pops right out from the top.

We've done a couple down here.
The OE MS6 downpipe doesn't come out that easily. You have to unbolt the rear motor mount and rock the motor forward for the light-off catalytic converter and upper portion of the 2-piece downpipe to clear everything. Rotating the driveshaft wouldn't have done anything.
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 Old 04-10-2015, 06:14 AM   #42
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I can't speak for everyone, but for myself the speed was the best combination of worlds. It was practical, affordable, and fun. I have 2 kids, if I didn't I can honestly say I would have ended up in something else. I love that they aren't common, few people know what it is in the first place, and among true car enthusiasts it always starts a conversation. Guys that drive way nicer cars than me have stopped to talk about it more than once.

As was mentioned previously, if all you are after is pure speed than this wasn't the car for you. The aforementioned 2k Honda with a k-swap would keep up with even the fastest speeds out there. Would it be as comfortable or safe? Not even close. It's all perspective when it comes to what you spend your money on with your hobby.
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 Old 04-10-2015, 09:14 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by aviator79 View Post
if you want 500 HP I have a CPE stanback that will do that. Very rare. I will sell it to you.
The CPE Standback is an interesting item but I'm pretty pleased with the AP V3. Thanks.
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 Old 04-10-2015, 09:20 AM   #44
 
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Looking at your sig, part of your problem is that you have done all Cobb parts. They are very good quality but they have a price tag to match.
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 Old 04-10-2015, 09:21 AM   #45
 
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Another tip, paying to have a blue name was a waste of money sent to Bottech.
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 Old 04-10-2015, 09:32 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by InkedInspector View Post
I can't speak for everyone, but for myself the speed was the best combination of worlds. It was practical, affordable, and fun. I have 2 kids, if I didn't I can honestly say I would have ended up in something else. I love that they aren't common, few people know what it is in the first place, and among true car enthusiasts it always starts a conversation. Guys that drive way nicer cars than me have stopped to talk about it more than once.

As was mentioned previously, if all you are after is pure speed than this wasn't the car for you. The aforementioned 2k Honda with a k-swap would keep up with even the fastest speeds out there. Would it be as comfortable or safe? Not even close. It's all perspective when it comes to what you spend your money on with your hobby.
Sounds like a solid take on things. Thanks.

Originally Posted by ASHMS3 View Post
Looking at your sig, part of your problem is that you have done all Cobb parts. They are very good quality but they have a price tag to match.
Yep, in hindsight though, I'd still have gone with Cobb. Nice product and great after sales service.
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 Old 04-10-2015, 09:37 AM   #47
 
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I can tell you almost to the cent what I have spent on the car. I paid $18k for the car, and have not spent more than that on mods. Hope to be in the 450-500whp range when I start it back up here after building.
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 Old 04-10-2015, 09:39 AM   #48
 
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Originally Posted by WetzMS3 View Post
Another tip, paying to have a blue name was a waste of money sent to Bottech.
Don't mind him; he's just jealous that we're blue and he's not.
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 Old 04-10-2015, 09:40 AM   #49
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
The OE MS6 downpipe doesn't come out that easily. You have to unbolt the rear motor mount and rock the motor forward for the light-off catalytic converter and upper portion of the 2-piece downpipe to clear everything. Rotating the driveshaft wouldn't have done anything.
Unbolting the RMM is not a big a deal. I read about people removing wheels and alternators. The bolts on the driveshaft DO make a difference when pulling from the top. We get it done pretty quickly now.
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 Old 04-10-2015, 09:52 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
I was a n00b with respect to hands-on car work when I bought my car, but over the years, I've learned a lot. The intake/exhaust stuff is pretty simple to deal with, with the exception of the downpipe (which is a giant bitch to get out). Most of the stuff you've got in your sig you could've done with a set of jack stands and some decent tools.

The tuning, on the other hand, is an entirely different matter....
I did install everything that appears in my sig, with a couple of jackstands, a good set of tools and no help and I'm pleased with the bang for the buck. It's the next level, pulling the motor, putting in new rods, pistons, bearings etc., that's way over my head and ball size. So, it's going to cost large to do.
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 Old 04-10-2015, 09:57 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by Putin 2.3T View Post
Don't mind him; he's just jealous that we're blue and he's not.
I'm pretty pleased with the quality of the Cobb goodies. Plus they helped out by phone too many times to count.
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 Old 04-10-2015, 10:07 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by maisonvi View Post
I can tell you almost to the cent what I have spent on the car. I paid $18k for the car, and have not spent more than that on mods. Hope to be in the 450-500whp range when I start it back up here after building.
There's just no community in this area so if I want it done I either do it myself or pay through the nose. I considered going 2nd hand for the car purchase but just figured I bought mine to thrash the B-Jeezus out of it and that anything I bought used would be well thrashed. Sounds as though you did very well, though.
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 Old 04-10-2015, 10:10 AM   #53
 
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Originally Posted by BMC View Post
There's just no community in this area so if I want it done I either do it myself or pay through the nose. I considered going 2nd hand for the car purchase but just figured I bought mine to thrash the B-Jeezus out of it and that anything I bought used would be well thrashed. Sounds as though you did very well, though.
A lot of mine is waiting for deals too. I know I want item X, so I just wait until I find a good deal on one used. I have very few new parts on my car, only in spots I think it matters.
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 Old 04-10-2015, 10:12 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by HighwayUFO View Post
Go to work in the mines in Nevada or the Oilfields in Texas or North Dakota, that is how you make easy money quick.
Too old for that.
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 Old 04-10-2015, 10:26 AM   #55
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Originally Posted by texasboy21 View Post
FWIW I purchased my Mazdaspeed (second time purchasing one for daily duties) because it is an inexpensive and fantastic car to drive as is, and it's cheap to maintain.

Dollar for dollar, the fun factor cannot be beat.

Purchased new 2012 in November 2011 - $27000 out the door. Sold in early 2013 for $24000

Purchased used 2012 with 27K miles in March 2015 - $20200 out the door.
Up here, north of the border, we don't get things at the same price point as you do, plus, add 13% (combined federal /provincial tax) on top of everything. Just to compound matters, dealers Stateside won't sell new to Canadians until you are down into what we up here refer to as "the southern States", a long goddamn drive to put it bluntly. That's just the way "big business" (automobile) chooses to do business. I ran into the same thing when I was trying to buy a Yamaha V-Max. Yes I know, I know, stop whining and enjoy what I've got.
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 Old 04-10-2015, 10:30 AM   #56
 
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I hate that this thread made me add everything up.
With all my failures on this car I'm nearing the 50k mark.
And I bought the ms6 used for 23k
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 Old 04-10-2015, 10:44 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by Lakespeed6 View Post
I hate that this thread made me add everything up.
With all my failures on this car I'm nearing the 50k mark.
And I bought the ms6 used for 23k
That's a good lookin' drive and solid numbers. I can't imagine the times that 06 surprised the crap out of "newer" and/or "faster" cars. I live to do that. Apologies for putting you through the adding-up-the-$$$s exercise.
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 Old 04-10-2015, 10:52 AM   #58
 
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I think the only ‘new’ part I have purchased for my Pu was the AP, everything else, for sale forums here and ebay, you can do a lot cheaply if you are willing to wait. but yes, it would be easy to drop 10k on it new if you wanted to...
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 Old 04-10-2015, 11:20 AM   #59
 
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If you want the fastest or most powerful car on the block, you picked the wrong base.
IMO, this car is about value and fun....a "faster than the average economy car".

Frankly, it was/is a culture shock for me with the cost of upgrades, and their relative bang for the buck. After years of tinkering with the dishwasher-shaped Buick, I'm also accustomed to more tire smoke per dollar.
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 Old 04-10-2015, 11:24 AM   #60
 
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Not made of money, just very smart with it. Only purchase parts with no interest financing for x amount of months, and be sure to pay it off by then. Honestly what I have done with almost everything I purchased for my car.

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 Old 04-10-2015, 11:38 AM   #61
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You're spending too much money. I made what I made on my original setup with maybe $1300, and the catback was probably unnecessary. Hell, you could make similar power with just E85 and being stock.

All that money spent for 310whp is because that's what you wanted, not what you needed.
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 Old 04-10-2015, 12:01 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by Yatta View Post
I think the only ‘new’ part I have purchased for my Pu was the AP, everything else, for sale forums here and ebay, you can do a lot cheaply if you are willing to wait. but yes, it would be easy to drop 10k on it new if you wanted to...
Your right. I pay large for my lack of patience and I did want to start with a new car.

Originally Posted by crankshaft View Post
If you want the fastest or most powerful car on the block, you picked the wrong base.
IMO, this car is about value and fun....a "faster than the average economy car".

Frankly, it was/is a culture shock for me with the cost of upgrades, and their relative bang for the buck. After years of tinkering with the dishwasher-shaped Buick, I'm also accustomed to more tire smoke per dollar.
Good way to look at it. I'm not actually looking for the biggest or fastest, just the surprise factor. For whatever reason I get the biggest kick out of that.

Originally Posted by g00s3y View Post
Not made of money, just very smart with it. Only purchase parts with no interest financing for x amount of months, and be sure to pay it off by then. Honestly what I have done with almost everything I purchased for my car.

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I just don't have the patience. Life's too short. I guess in the end, that attitude has a pretty big price tag.
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 Old 04-10-2015, 12:15 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by CWP_MS3 View Post
You're spending too much money. I made what I made on my original setup with maybe $1300, and the catback was probably unnecessary. Hell, you could make similar power with just E85 and being stock.

All that money spent for 310whp is because that's what you wanted, not what you needed.
Here's my list of excuses. Never held a wrench and didn't know squat about cars till I put my sig mods on by myself. That doesn't sound like much to most guys on the forum but it challenged the hell out of me. No real community in this area (read - no help - nothing to compare to - listen to - look at etc.) Figured most of it out by myself. All part of the learning curve I guess. BTW corn juice (E85) is a Stateside product that hasn't made its way here yet. 91 octane is as good as it gets unless I go meth.
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 Old 04-10-2015, 12:20 PM   #64
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Since we are adding up money spent, I stand at $3,900 so far. Not bad at all.
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 Old 04-10-2015, 12:22 PM   #65
 
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Honestly, 3" intake, test pipe, internals, e85, and tune... should get you 300whp easy on the k04.

3" intake - $200 used/$300 new
test pipe - $50 used/$100 new
internals - $350 (used can be bought for less, but I personally wouldn't go for used internals, just my feelings)
e85 - $2/gal (if you have a station nearby)
tune - free by reading and doing it yourself
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 Old 04-10-2015, 01:31 PM   #66
 
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If you want a fast car the Z06 is the obvious choice here. Even if you got the speed to 500whp territory, it would not be nearly as reliable as the Z06.... that's just a few bolt ons on the LS7, otherwise bone stock motor/car.

Would this be your only car/DD? Corvette is not a good daily driver at all, you'd survive driving it every day but MS3 is much better suited for the task. If this is just a fun car on the side kinda thing.... Z06 is the obvious choice here for your goals.
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 Old 04-10-2015, 05:29 PM   #67
 
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BMC, you're the one made of money, not me. I can't imagine paying $31,000 for one of these. That was WAY over my budget when I was buying. I wanted one of these cars pretty badly for years. I test drove a brand new 2012 at a Mazda dealership years ago and literally thought about it every single day for MONTHS, I wanted it that badly...but I have a rule: I don't buy new cars. So I waited.

I got my used, unmolested, stock 2012 with 38k miles on the odometer, tech package and basically everything but the heated power seats and the auto dimming mirror for $20,126.64 OTD plus another $55 for inspection in PA. That number would still only be $22,750 with that 13% figure you stated above to convert between USA and Canada tax rates...a lot lower than what you paid.

Since then I have bought the following parts: 3.5" intake, ebay catless DP, AP V3, CP-E Stage 2 RMM, MD PMM, JBR 70 duro TMM, Autotechs, and an ebay 3-port EBCS. All of that set me back $1788.50 thanks to buying shit on sale or used.

Parts-wise, I'm just not rich enough to grab the lowest hanging fruit like you have with all of your Cobb equipment. I can't just order a whole bunch of that stuff without a second thought. Honestly, I bought two motor mounts this month and that's enough to send me over budget on my discretionary income to give you an idea. I try to run a tight ship, that means credit cards paid in full each month and sticking to my budget.

Only thing left to do this year for me is cobble together an FMIC setup...I'm estimating between $300 and $600. Once I install all that shit, I'll probably have a roughly 280 whp capable car for about $22,000.

Then eventually I'll go BT. Between the turbo I'm looking at and the supporting parts needed, it'll probably bring the final price up to about $25-26k and at that point I will probably be capable of about 350 whp on 93 octane, or more if I add methanol or ethanol into the mix.

No matter how I do it, I'm going to end up with a great 4-door hatch daily driver (not a Corvette weekend car/garage queen) with more than enough power, for less than $26k.

Thing is, there's ALWAYS going to be a car out there that's putting down more power than you for less money. I could have bought a high mileage Gen1 that was already modded, instead of spending more money for my stock Gen2, then paying for all the mods, and saved thousands, BUT, I wouldn't have learned as much, nor would I have had as much fun researching and installing parts, nor met as many people, nor had as many great conversations with local Nators and the people on these boards. The 6 months since I bought this car have been some of the best 6 months I've had in my life in terms of my car hobby, and you can't put a price tag on that. The journey is just as important as the destination.
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 Old 04-10-2015, 07:28 PM   #68
 
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Originally Posted by Kor3y101 View Post
Hmm, yes you may of paid less then us... But you also have a car that is a dying breed and approaching if not already, a decade old.
And your only making 300 WHP? I mean I understand AWD and your drivetrain is a bit more parasitic, but not to that extent.. I think you be the "foos" if you spent that much on your car and your only achieving that..
i live in california and i am trying to stay legal, any one over 300 WHP with a ms6 is breaking the law (not that i care) but im not ganna deal with smog issues. plus mine is a daily driver, 300 is plenty good.

i also like the fact that its rare.. it makes me feel special inside.
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 Old 04-11-2015, 08:37 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by aaronc7 View Post
If you want a fast car the Z06 is the obvious choice here. Even if you got the speed to 500whp territory, it would not be nearly as reliable as the Z06.... that's just a few bolt ons on the LS7, otherwise bone stock motor/car.

Would this be your only car/DD? Corvette is not a good daily driver at all, you'd survive driving it every day but MS3 is much better suited for the task. If this is just a fun car on the side kinda thing.... Z06 is the obvious choice here for your goals.
It would be my "summer" daily drive. I'm thinking if I can live with the torque steer, wheel hop, loss of first and sometimes second gear, can't nail it under 3500, etc., I can probably live with whatever issues the vette has. BTW nice looking ride you've got there. My thing is that the Vette looks and does exactly what you'd expect, the surprise factor of the Speed3 is what drew me in in the first place. Got some thinking to do. I appreciate your input.

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 Old 04-11-2015, 10:01 AM   #70
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Originally Posted by MD1032 View Post
BMC, you're the one made of money, not me. I can't imagine paying $31,000 for one of these. That was WAY over my budget when I was buying. I wanted one of these cars pretty badly for years. I test drove a brand new 2012 at a Mazda dealership years ago and literally thought about it every single day for MONTHS, I wanted it that badly...but I have a rule: I don't buy new cars. So I waited.

I got my used, unmolested, stock 2012 with 38k miles on the odometer, tech package and basically everything but the heated power seats and the auto dimming mirror for $20,126.64 OTD plus another $55 for inspection in PA. That number would still only be $22,750 with that 13% figure you stated above to convert between USA and Canada tax rates...a lot lower than what you paid.

Since then I have bought the following parts: 3.5" intake, ebay catless DP, AP V3, CP-E Stage 2 RMM, MD PMM, JBR 70 duro TMM, Autotechs, and an ebay 3-port EBCS. All of that set me back $1788.50 thanks to buying shit on sale or used.

Parts-wise, I'm just not rich enough to grab the lowest hanging fruit like you have with all of your Cobb equipment. I can't just order a whole bunch of that stuff without a second thought. Honestly, I bought two motor mounts this month and that's enough to send me over budget on my discretionary income to give you an idea. I try to run a tight ship, that means credit cards paid in full each month and sticking to my budget.

Only thing left to do this year for me is cobble together an FMIC setup...I'm estimating between $300 and $600. Once I install all that shit, I'll probably have a roughly 280 whp capable car for about $22,000.

Then eventually I'll go BT. Between the turbo I'm looking at and the supporting parts needed, it'll probably bring the final price up to about $25-26k and at that point I will probably be capable of about 350 whp on 93 octane, or more if I add methanol or ethanol into the mix.

No matter how I do it, I'm going to end up with a great 4-door hatch daily driver (not a Corvette weekend car/garage queen) with more than enough power, for less than $26k.

Thing is, there's ALWAYS going to be a car out there that's putting down more power than you for less money. I could have bought a high mileage Gen1 that was already modded, instead of spending more money for my stock Gen2, then paying for all the mods, and saved thousands, BUT, I wouldn't have learned as much, nor would I have had as much fun researching and installing parts, nor met as many people, nor had as many great conversations with local Nators and the people on these boards. The 6 months since I bought this car have been some of the best 6 months I've had in my life in terms of my car hobby, and you can't put a price tag on that. The journey is just as important as the destination.
Food for thought. Thanks. Had a two page response to you note but lost it when I went back to check a response from page one of this thread. What a cartoon. Any way thanks again. I may just call it quits with a turbo upgrade and shoot for 340 to 350 whp.

Originally Posted by acemanz View Post
i live in california and i am trying to stay legal, any one over 300 WHP with a ms6 is breaking the law (not that i care) but im not ganna deal with smog issues. plus mine is a daily driver, 300 is plenty good.

i also like the fact that its rare.. it makes me feel special inside.
Legal shmegal!
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 Old 04-11-2015, 10:26 AM   #71
 
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Originally Posted by BMC View Post
So I bought a new 2013 with the tech package because I like them and read that they were a great platform to build on and that for little $$$s I could get big horsepower. Hmmm.

Around here they go for around $31,000 (taxes in, on the road). I then proceeded to bolt on the stuff listed below. That added another $5500 and that's just for the parts as I did the installs myself. Add a pro tune and there's another couple of hundred. Overall I'm quite pleased as I got a pretty big bang for the buck. I'm now at about 310whp according to the virtual dyno ... BUT ... I am now pushing $37,000 out of pocket.

I have a modest goal of 400whp in mind and figure its time to do the rods and pistons, if I don't want a ZZB. Since that shit is way over my head, I take it to a local speed shop.

Sooo, they figure on 15 to 20 hours at $80/hr which adds another $1700, to remove the motor, tear it down, ship it out/back and do the reinstall. They farm out the internal stuff to an engine rebuilder. Manley rods, pistons and bearings, about $1500 plus an install cost of about $800Then there's the bigger turbo I'll need (GTX 3076) which is another $1500, plus say another $1000 in odds and ends before it’s on. Then I'll be fuel short so I need to go meth injection, another $500, as we've only got 91 octane locally. Plus side and trans mounts, plus a bar map, plus f#ckin' this and a f#ckin' that which puts me to about $45,000 out of pocket and that's without a single suspension or brake upgrade. WTF!?!? and it's still a $30,000 Speed3! How do you guys reconcile that, especially when it comes time to sell? Hence my question, "Are you guys made of f#cking money"?

To make matters worse, as my wife pointed out, for less than that $45,000, I can get a winter-stored 08 Z06 with 40,000 miles on it, babied by some old guy, running 500 whp. I've looked at it, the godamn thing is mint.

Don't get me wrong, I love my little car but am obviously becoming disillusioned. Feedback/pep talk/shit upon all welcome. Thank you for allowing me to rant.
Sounds like you have the wrong car if you just want power. The mazda is more about the practicality and package deal. 400whp is quite a feat with stock turbo and internals with this car, your new goal is much more realistic and budget friendly. Keep in mind this is not a highly engineered car or engine even, it is merely a econobox that has been made to go quick so many more steps are needed to make power safely than the Z06 you mentioned.

Enjoy it for what is it and what its not. Just have fun, after all you will have many cars after this one.
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 Old 04-11-2015, 01:26 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by Z32_MS3 View Post
Sounds like you have the wrong car if you just want power. The mazda is more about the practicality and package deal. 400whp is quite a feat with stock turbo and internals with this car, your new goal is much more realistic and budget friendly. Keep in mind this is not a highly engineered car or engine even, it is merely a econobox that has been made to go quick so many more steps are needed to make power safely than the Z06 you mentioned.

Enjoy it for what is it and what its not. Just have fun, after all you will have many cars after this one.
Thanks. I'm leaning more and more toward the 350 whp but don't see managing that without the BT. I've already done the internals and the rest of the bolt-ons. We're limited by 91 octane up here.
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 Old 04-11-2015, 01:45 PM   #73
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Looking at your parts, you have all cobb parts for the most part, not saying that is a bad thing but there are less expensive things out there.

Could have bought a mustang if I wanted a more powerful car but I like the room and I'm a mazda guy. Wanted this car for a very long time
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 Old 04-11-2015, 02:06 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by acemanz View Post
i live in california and i am trying to stay legal, any one over 300 WHP with a ms6 is breaking the law (not that i care) but im not ganna deal with smog issues.
I'm not convinced that this is accurate.

If memory serves, Lex was able to show that the stock downpipe and catalysts didn't impede flow anywhere near as much as people had been lead to believe. The result is that as long as you've got a C.A.R.B.-certified intake (and if said intake is ≥ 3" in diameter), you could pretty easily break 300whp with a turbo upgrade, fuel pump internals, and a good tune...even on 91. You would probably even be able to pass a sniffer.
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 Old 04-11-2015, 08:47 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
I'm not convinced that this is accurate.

If memory serves, Lex was able to show that the stock downpipe and catalysts didn't impede flow anywhere near as much as people had been lead to believe. The result is that as long as you've got a C.A.R.B.-certified intake (and if said intake is ≥ 3" in diameter), you could pretty easily break 300whp with a turbo upgrade, fuel pump internals, and a good tune...even on 91. You would probably even be able to pass a sniffer.
An exchange of info ... excellent ... potential for some good to come of my whining and sniveling rant.

Originally Posted by Shampu View Post
Looking at your parts, you have all cobb parts for the most part, not saying that is a bad thing but there are less expensive things out there.

Could have bought a mustang if I wanted a more powerful car but I like the room and I'm a mazda guy. Wanted this car for a very long time
I've become quite attached to mine as well. I'm gonna keep it and see what happens. Queue the 100 tiny violins!
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 Old 04-12-2015, 02:14 AM   #76
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
I'm not convinced that this is accurate.

If memory serves, Lex was able to show that the stock downpipe and catalysts didn't impede flow anywhere near as much as people had been lead to believe. The result is that as long as you've got a C.A.R.B.-certified intake (and if said intake is ≥ 3" in diameter), you could pretty easily break 300whp with a turbo upgrade, fuel pump internals, and a good tune...even on 91. You would probably even be able to pass a sniffer.
This is TECHNICALLY untrue

changing out the turbo would mean that the turbos would need to certified by CARB. The same goes for your exhaust manifold. If an inspector knew what he was looking at then you could be failed for either of these.

Although i highly doubt anyone would ever notice, it would be "technically" illegal to swap out the Ko4 for lets say a BNRs3.
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 Old 04-12-2015, 05:03 AM   #77
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You could swap a k04 for a gtx2867,3076, or BNR and still be on the stock manifold. There are plenty of highly modified Mazdaspeed in California there are obviously plenty of ways around it. Yes you are running a different turbo, but unless your inspector is a Mazdaspeed guru, he won't know the difference between a k04 and let's say a 2867.

Here is some illegal shit for your ass
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 Old 04-12-2015, 05:13 AM   #78
 
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Originally Posted by Shampu View Post
You could swap a k04 for a gtx2867,3076, or BNR and still be on the stock manifold. There are plenty of highly modified Mazdaspeed in California there are obviously plenty of ways around it. Yes you are running a different turbo, but unless your inspector is a Mazdaspeed guru, he won't know the difference between a k04 and let's say a 2867.

Here is some illegal shit for your ass
http://youtu.be/oqpkvT3gUJk
yup yup, you can always get around it, im just saying it's not technically legal

i plan on swapping to a BNR myself. cuz FUK duh POLICE.... or something.

im just saying meth kits and gutted cats and all that shit that people normally do to get their HP up aint ganna fly in cali.
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 Old 04-13-2015, 10:32 AM   #79
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Of course, @acemanz;. I wasn't really trying to argue that you would be "legal" in the most technical sense if you did a turbo swap. That said, the BNR is pretty much indistinguishable from the OE turbo unless you REALLY dig in there to expose it. You could also go for a billet-upgrade for the OE K04...

Anyway, what I'm getting at is that you could certainly swap some stuff around and still pass visual inspections (unless they get insanely detailed), and the sniffer, and still be above 300awhp.
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 Old 04-17-2015, 12:14 PM   #80
 
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The Vette has a lot of bang for the buck and is pretty hard to beat if your goal is raw speed.

Also keep in mind that when modding, you probably won't recoup most of your investment if you decide to sell. Parting out will probably help you recoup more than selling the car with the mods, but you'd still probably be out more than what the Vette would lose in depreciation. And of course you can't easily part out a built motor like you can bolt-ons.

Modding is one of those things that you do because you love it, not because it makes sense.
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