Yep I had the 2150 as my replacement for.....2 weeks...

Abandoned that fucker and sourced a stock one. I couldn't even look at the throttle with the 2150 and not get cut. Psi set to like 1200 on the map, No thanks heh.

We need one that goes to like 1950 or something...or whatever will get us the highest pressure without cut.

I have 2050, I see 2074 all the time in logs but never had a cut and never had to target lower fuel pressure.

I get cut all the time on my 2050 when the rev limit kicks in or in high rpm low throttle; fuel pressure map attached.

@Realgib3; isn't that special. Lol. You may be the exception not the rule.

Tappin

2150 rv no bueno. I traded it back to John for a 1975 rv

Actually I might be wrong. I might have a step higher one; I don't remember.
I should look to see if I can find a different source for these though, I don't particularly care for the current vendor.

Still wish we could just get the upgraded sensor from somewhere

it would appear my thread derail continues...lol

I do seem to remember the consensus was 2050 ok 2150 bad...which my luck would have it, was determined AFTER I got my 2150...it currently sits in one if my bolt bins. I suspect the sensor limit is 2200 and thus triggers a fuel cut from the ECU...or the limit is in the ECU...alas we may never know.

My logs show fuel cut happening at 2074. I might have a 2100 valve.

welp, I guess I had two problems...FP is still randomly dropping, but only into the triple digits now.

I'll swap pumps out tomorrow.

1 step forward 2 steps back...its time for a change.

Did changing your pump fix the problem? I was running into something similar before I switched to full E. Running a 50/50 mix my fuel pressure would drop out similar to yours. What was happening in my case was my pump slowly developed a light coat of sticky death in my SV and internals resulting in an inconsistent synchronization between the internals and SV.

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if only there were a simple answer...but I guess "no" would be it.

I swapped out my pump with my spare CPE pump BUT used the same SV. I had already swapped just the SV previously so I didn't see that the SV would make any differences. Also the collar on the other one came from somewhere up northwest (PTP pump) I am suspecting so it looked like hell and at the time I didn't want to take the SV out of the collar and swap em.

So that didn't make a difference, but I think my issue is/was really electrical.

So my next steps were to put the other SV in. I didn't take either apart, need to look back at this thread or another to see if/how to fully take the SV apart, I just swapped collars. At the same time I unplugged my injector harness to pressure sensor, the other two connectors in front of the CDFP and cleaned them all, spread out the pin receivers and re-applied dialectic grease on just the injector-to-sensor plug (this has been my randomly problematic plug over the past 3 years). over the past month I have also had breakup issues and unplugging the top harness connectors and ECU connectors resolved it so right now there are too many variables to rule out anything conclusively.

after those steps the car appears to be back to normal. I have not done a full pull yet as its raining here but a partial pull was successful last night.

so, I think I am having at least 2 different issues.

Top harness plugs or ECU connectors/wires - symptom is breakup but no logged drop in FP.

FP sensor harness plug/wires - symptom is breakup but drastic drops in FP as seen in the logs I have attached.

Pump issue due to E85 ( possible but no conclusive evidence yet)

If this occurs again I am going to either get a new or used injector harness. The issue could also be a weak/broken wire somewhere that gets manipulated when messing with the connectors.

there, you now have the long story.

edit: now that I look back at the hardware mod thread I see there really isn't anything to clean inside the valve itself. The cavity has always looked spotless. so I am more convinced my issue is fully electrical.

Called integrated engineering. Extremely nice compared to APR. Talked to a guy named Daniel. He was curious as he has never heard of the MZR, so naturally gave him a history lesson. He said they have no experience with E85, since they are located in SL,UT. Dan placed me on hold to talk with their engineering department about my request. The engineer said that it will run E85 fuel without problems, as long as we remove the fuel from the pump after each run. Duh...

Sounds to me like there is yet another wall. And I don't have 500 bucks to throw away at the moment. I am currently working on creating an additional seal inside the pump. I'm glad my shop is finally cool again where I can happily work.

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time for a NOS purge valve on shutdown mod. install a spark plug at the end and the dragon rears it head one last time at every shutdown :)

Great idea! Why don't you give it a try and report back, lol

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Heh, that would be something wouldn't it? Currently at 1,800 miles with no sticking issues.

As soon as my rear diff gets here tomorrow I'll swap and continue my full e with vr1 oil and Lucas oil safeguard ethanol fuel conditioner in the pump.....one thing tho.....I live in Wisconsin and it's been 15* the last few days and I'm still running a d10 meth yet, why because I can.....lol.....so the long starts and cold temps might play into issues I may or maynot have.

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Absolutely, because I need more problems. Lol.

P.s. if my harness gives me more trouble I just may do it.

Tappin

You should just get rid of the HPFP and pressurize the fuel tank with nitrous to 2k psi. No more pump issues.

Yeah, that's will work. I'll just use my empty Argon tank from my mig welder as a fuel tank. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...57408006c5.jpg

Fun fact that I just figured out... Running petrol makes my fuel pump loud when I lightly touch the throttle. When i switched back to E pump noise vanished. Wonder why that is... Viscosity?

Edit: I also rebuilt the pump with SI-1 while I was on gas. Ran it this way for 500 miles then switched back to E without touching the pump. Let's see what happens.

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Probably flow related actually. You're using a lot more of that piston stroke to supply fuel on full corn.

Easy.......pump is pissed off your running horse piss through it when its used to sweet, sweet corn goodness.

So, I have a question... I'm willing to jump into the fray here... As I understand it, there are several threads on the issues surrounding corn. Many thanks to @Enki; and @littleloogy; for the rebellious attitudes and inquisitive nature's that have led us this far. I will continue to puff peters and blow smoke up bungs once I ask... Are there any oils you would like tested that have not been tried yet?
Looking across the multiple threads, I don't see anyone actively tracking this, so @littleloogy; @Enki; requests? Down to start at beginning of year.

tapped while fapping to pics of Laguna Seca...

@Enki; is have you read this? http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...d.php?t=122082

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There's a separate thread on oil, but I think we probably need a new one, or at least to redo the op in the original.

As for which oil, I think the best bet is to pick one that says "dexxos" on it somewhere and try that.

Oh crap... Newbs gon newb......... http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...35369cb18b.jpg okay... Let me get to reading again, and if I don't see it, I'll ask.

tapped while fapping to pics of Laguna Seca...

I have got off track with the oil testing when I started with additives. RP works better then the others I have tried, so I stuck with it. I have been wanting to try something bio based http://www.getg.com/G-OIL_motor_oils.php

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@littleloogy; you want I should try the G1 stuff? Or is that my ego telling me that you were thinking of the race blend lol

tapped while fapping to pics of Laguna Seca...

Bio full synthetic falls under the appropriate SN category by the american petroleum institute or API that is listed in our owners manual. I would start there.

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Somewhere around 2.5k miles.
RP dexxos
Redline S-1 for pump rebuild
0 issues
Many boners.

Local test car just went out. 2 tanks, lots of sitting (probably not the best thing for the car). Still on T6, but will be switching to RP next oil change.

I switched back to E from gas and I started having sticking internals withing the first week. I had to keep injecting additive every night after my commute to keep my pump operational for the next morning. Today I finally found some time to work on the pump. I rebuilt it with the additive inside the retaining nut just like before.

In case anyone is wondering about prolonged use of E, I checked my records. I was on full e85 for over 16,000 consecutive miles. I did not have any problems with my fuel system besides the known problem of the fuel level sender taking a shit.

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Would you just get that guy to switch to the purple already. $$ for oil change< having to screw with pump every other tank of E

Starting to sound like SL-1 lubricated pump rebuild+Dexos-spec Oil= Multiple OCI on full E before maintainance required.

Lubed up the pump/internals with SI-1 and threw in RP dexos yesterday. Heading to fill up full e85 after work today, and then the fun will begin.

Say farewell to third gear traction. if you had any remaining.

Keep in mind you might still encounter issues after first switching to RP; it may take another oil change to stabilize the pump due to remnants of the old oil.

You may also immediately have no issues. Hard to tell.

This is true. I am experiencing issues trying to convert back. Two oil changes ago I accidentally put in regular royal purple instead of dexos. Since then my spill valve and internals has been getting really sticky. I hope it goes away after my next oil change/pump rebuild.

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