I use to do this on cold starts in the morning so my car wasn't so loud waking everyone up around it lol and I was only 93 octane then

It starts the car at lower rpms so it's not so loud

I meant for full E.

I just realized that your "Unicorn" has no horn, effectively making it just a gay pony.


:tongue:

"gay pony"


Totally lol'd at that!

It totally has a horn, just not where you expect it to be. Why do you think the tail is so fluffed up like that?

It is snowing where you are? Shit I doubt it. When in was testing this additive a year ago on my way to Tahoe, I had major problems starting up there in 20° weather. Someone suggested getting a smalls block heater to keep the fuel pump warm during the winter months. When that death gets cold it gets extremely sticky. I am currently in 45°low and 55° high...

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

On pump gas, I can pull the spill valve connection and the car will start first crank. On full e, even with >500 psi it doesn't want to start on the first go.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1419074320





Also, its been in the 20's if not high teens here most mornings for the past month. A few long cranks but thats it. @littleloogy; that's all far too much thought and effort at 430 am when I leave for work. Sit in car, eyes still closed, turn key until magic happens......profit.

Got a video of the cold start "stumble". I have new NGK plugs coming tomorrow. Also will be switching to 5w-40 RP from 5w-30 RP, hopefully will help calm down the annoying FP internals squeak. Other than that, everything has been running well. Only getting around 16-17MPG, but that's expected.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6FA5JVv_ww - Like i said, it's very minor, but it is there. I think after the next oil change and cleaning of the HPFP it will go away.

Is this the squeak you're talking about? If so, nothing to do with what oil you're using :) I had the squeak, switched my HPFP tables to the one Enki posted in that thread, squeak went away.

Nope, got rid of that squeak a couple weeks after I installed the internals by adjusting the tables. This one always happens upon light acceleration, or tip-in. Read up on a lot of people with 5w30 type oil hearing it more than it is with 5w40. Nothing to worry about, but it's just annoying to me, and I don't like my car being annoying. :nono:

You can get at least some of that MPG back. Lean burn cruise tune with max timing set to 40, and shifting at a lower rpm (under 2500).

When I was testing E mpg I was in the mid twenties. Now I just want to go fast and am getting on average 15mpg

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

This thread right - http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ng-atr-107362/

Yeah, I had set that actually on my pump tune, noticed an increase in MPG. Although when I did the same for my e mix tune, I didn't notice anything extra, but I think that's because of the heavy foot I had at the time after enjoying tuning on e. I'll get that set up next revision.

I'm not sure you want to go that hard on the afrs/timing. Leaning out too much reduces power output, and again, you need a certain amount of power (throttle in this case) to sustain a set speed.

I don't really recall much gains when going from say 15 AFR target to 17, and it didn't drive as good. Right now I'm running 14.7 and getting the best MPG I've ever had due to driving style changes alone.

this is the key to getting MPG with a performance car...which is contradictory to the reason for getting a performance car...lol

When I was on a 42.5/33 mix of e, I was getting around 200 each tank at the start. After not being so pedal happy, I would easily get 300 a tank. I see no reason why I can't get 250 a tank on e without making any changes.

If leaning it out won't do that much, I won't even bother. I did notice it "hiccup" a bit on my pump tune, not much, but it was noticeable sometimes. I'm about 500 miles in, loving the $30 fill-ups.

I typically get 220-230 miles per tank on full E. During the few days we had bad snow etc here I got 250 soemthing. Thats with 1/4 a tank of normal driving. If you babied the shit out of it I could see 275 but then whats' the point of running full E?

Being able to be the cool guy at the car meet that says "Yeah, I'm on E", and people stare thinking you mean the drug.

This has actually been covered lots of times in a number of threads.

@Enki; ..... lol

I meant if you babied the shit out of it I could see getting 275 miles to the tank but if your going to feather foot it everywhere then whats the point of running E?

Not as in why is running full E better than 50/50


you think thats bad? plug "meth" in on craigslist at work and see the looks you get :261:

So, ordered RP from amazon, had the dexos-1 specs and all that good stuff. And instead I got sent this, wish I had a European Mazda...
http://i57.tinypic.com/2j51bup.jpghttp://i58.tinypic.com/15mh2r5.jpg

Going to see if I can just exchange it at Wal-Mart here, don't feel like dealing with shipping it back and hoping I get sent the stuff I want.

Why not just run it and see what happens?

RP doesn't have anything on their site that has Dexos labels on it. Might be the same shit. Worst case, you get the correct one next time.

I don't know if it's a completely different "formula", but it mentions nothing about GM or dexos on the back of this stuff.

http://i59.tinypic.com/2qxojn9.jpg

Then return it.

Previously people have posted the 5w30 with the dexos, you seem to have purchased 5w40 on your original post. On the picture I've quoted the 5w30 on the left mentions dexos and is SN, 5w40 on the right doesn't and is SM.

I don't have access to RP but other brands I do have access to are the same with the different viscosities

Back on additives, the red line is not easily (or cheaply) obtainable to me. However, I can get the RP Max-Clean

Amazon.com: Royal Purple 11722 Max-Clean Fuel System Cleaner and Stabilizer - 20 oz. Bottle: Automotive

At least redline has a mid-SAPS oil that - they say - meets european specifications. All others are full-SAPS.
Probably mid-SAPS works better in DI engines, and this is what I've used so far.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...aea1244baa.jpg
http://royalpurpleconsumer.com/wp-co...ean-101012.pdf

Thanks for posting that, couldn't find it using my phone. I've never done chemistry or anything... Does the RP have the right stuff (in high enough %) as the red line?

I was sticking with additives that contain high levels of polyether anime with naphtha solvents. The properties in the royal purple cleaner are things I don't recognize. I suppose I can get a bottle and do some bench tests if you want.

Certain blends of polyether anime will actually help prevent gummy buildup. Which is what we want. Techron claims that their additive accomplishes this, but I have yet to prove/disprove because of laziness.

Yeah I've found its hard to tell because from what research I've done "polyether anime" isn't a set thing and they chemical can vary from product to product.
RP has a low naphtha so if that's the main solvent then it will not be as good as the red line

Curious, how much does it cost to buy some redline off of Amazon and get it shipped there? Srs, no knowledge at all on international shipping.

$26 apparently in Australia - Redline Oil RED60103 Complete SI 1 Fuel System Cleaner 15oz Bottle | eBay

@cletusb;

Oh, thats not bad. It didn't even take me half a bottle to do my pump. Honestly after that I used a coffee filter to strain what I used and dumped it back in haha. Still half almost a full bottle.

@littleloogy; are you still running the spring solenoid valve mod with the new current way of adding Si-1? I tried reading through the whole thread and found nothing of you mentioning if your still using it or not with new setup. Looking to jump on this bandwagon next spring and just trying to read up on everything.

You are a cheap bastard!
I am not using the spill valve spring mod anymore. Some people have reported pressure issues in the upper RPM region and I felt that any testing that I do in the future should not involve this risk.

I suggest keeping a spare button valve, a spare SV, and a bottle of SI-1 with you at all times. Having these items have saved my ass a few times in the past.

I switched back to gas for a month, I felt as though my car and my clutch needed a break from the sauce. I now have switched back to E85 and since then I have had nothing but problems. You may do everything correct and still develop death in your pump. I am taking notes on my journey back to a problem free pump like @MSP6;

That suck's that your having issues after switching. I store my car durring the winter months and always switch back to full 91 oct. Makes me wonder if I will run into the same problem every time I switch.

Did you rebuild the pump when you switched or just let it be?