Dew nut give up!

What pressure issues? Runaway pressure you mean?


I've been thinking about this, and I know the Redline shit turns the death into a non sticky paste...Well I'm thinking the 91 probably dissolves this protective paste and flushes it out, thus removing the protective benefits of the Redline...That's the only thing I can think of as to why you could go so long on full E but a couple tanks of 91 and it's done.

Getting stuff from Amazon shipping internationally is a bit hit and miss, some products they will just not ship at all, the Redline is one they will not but the will ship the RP.
Shipping prices from Amazon are normally pretty decent (about $9 for a single RP bottle) but there is a promo at the moment if you buy 2 or more different products and pay by Amex shipping is free (have to be smallish items tho)

Thanks, I didn't think to check eBay. I guess $25 isn't too bad but if using a bit every tank it could add up

No selling outside of VIP without all for sale rules followed. Posts deleted.

Yes to the first.

Agreed. I have noticed that the formation of death has slowed down a bit in the SV, but my internals still get sticky every 150 miles. I'm at 1500 miles on this OCI. Hope after I do another pump rebuild and oil change the problem will seize.

Holy fuck...
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...f87dac46c9.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...ca95698527.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...a176d671f4.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...1f048a25dd.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...42986ec6e1.jpg
That is some nasty ass shit right here. Goes to show you how dumping a few ml of Si-1 every few days helps keep the death at bay. I was racing Rice an hr ago, no pressure loss.

That is one gunky funky bitch... Rode hard and put away wet lol. No pressure loss looking like that? I'm amazed. From just a few tanks of 91

Heh I had to order it on Amazon and for whatever reason couldnt get speedy shipping. I thought I was going to have issues so I wanted to have extra to throw at the SV or dump in the tank if I needed to.

3k miles without issue. A conversation at work made me think of something. A big issue with the pump seal may not be the o-ring itself but the torque on it. You want just enough torque to compress the o-ring. Tighter is definitely not better. I hand tightened my internals then used the 18mm deep socket to only give them 1/4 tun or so. If people are cranking down the internals inside the pump they could flatten the o-ring to the point of ineffectiveness. Just a thought. Couldn't recall if there was a torque spec for the internals assembly.

Torque spec is supposed to be around 30-40 ft/lbs. Last rebuild I torqued to 40, this rebuild I torqued to 30 foot pounds. what o-ring? The one on the nut?

I only go hand tight on my internals. It's not the o-ring around the retaining nut, its the x ring AND the floating ring/scraper thats INSIDE the retaining nut that lets oil through.

Yes, that's right, it's not *just* the x-ring on the tip of the nut, there's a scraper too.

Well shit, hope I did not fuck it up.

You didn't. My prior post is fixed now.

So I think my fuel level sender is starting to take a shit. Went and filled up again, wasn't completely empty, but only had 50 miles left according to the car (which means not much really). Only took 9.8 gallons, turned it on, and it was 2 bars less than full. Took it for another 25-30 mile drive, went back, it only took 1.5 gallons. I fully expected it to happen at some point, and have no problem replacing it, just wish it didn't happen in the middle of moving. I'll probably be cutting what needs to get cut so I can access it from the top and replace/fix it quicker.

On another note, do you guys think it will be fine going right back to a 50/50 mix after running full E? I have a full bottle of si-1 still, and figured using half for each of the first 2 50/50 fillups would help, then at the next oil change clean and rebuild the pump with si-1 again just for peace of mind.

Are you switching back to a mix because of your fuel level sender? I don't think that going to a 50/50 mix will preserve the gauge. The connections on the fuel level sender are corroding, there is no stopping it.

This is why I never recommended my Pu locals for the full corn test.

Oh not at all, just doing it for better gas mileage. I don't notice that much of a change from when I was running a 42.5 mix, except I could get 300 out of a tank then. I don't care about it going out, everything in a car eventually fails and needs to get replaced. I'll replace it before I go back to a 50/50 mix so I can be accurate when mixing the fuels.

So, update. Just did an oil change this past weekend. Had a bit of the "sticky boogers" on the internals. Took the whole thing apart again, cleaned and lubed it all up with si-1, fresh RP 5w30. Hopefully all the remnants of T6 are out of there now. Other than start ups being a bit "slow", everything is looking and running good.

Also, with e85 being $1.75/gal right now, and still declining, it might be a while before I decide to go back to a e42 mix. Filling up for ~$25, I feel like I'm back in the 90's again.

Our 87 is at $1.75 right now... Enki what's the current price of e85 at that station?

But I feel ya.. started driving in 2000 which was right when gas was pretty much at it's lowest in history tends to spoil. Good time to have a doritos on a stick car that eats gas like it's going out of style though...

I dunno, I never really pay attention to that... Looks like it might have been about 2.05 a gallon when I last filled up (on the 26th).

I'll run by there today and check it out. Then make a cost vs POWAH analysis spreadsheet at various blends.

Damn ive spent too much time in engineering meetings this week

Uhh, you WILL not be able to get faster on a mix than you will be on full corn. That's something you can take to the bank.

Also, why bother spreadsheeting the cost/performance thing when 1. you don't really know how much power you're going to make on any given mix and 2. prices change damn near hourly?

Do we have any datalog's of a comparison between e-mix and full-e? Im curious to see how much of a difference there is. I keep seeing you guys post "Its insane". Now that sounds nice, but I like seeing numbers. Good old google pulls up nothing but E-85 mix info.

There's very little difference between knock proof on minimum mixes and 50/50.
It's when you go to full that shit gets crazy.
@johnnyboy05gt; had gone from an aggressive tune on 50/50 to a milder tune on full; he can certainly chime in with the seat of the pants difference between the two. This is the car Steel now owns, btw.

Going from the aggressive 50/50 tune to the mild full E85 tune was massive. I even had to tune it down it scared the shit out of me on a log. i also didn't notice a difference in fuel consumption.

AND it runs smoother, right?

Forgot I had this...Pump gas timing (14 degrees), stock boost (15), stock TMIC, stock turbo, gutted stock DP/MP, full corn on a Mustang dyno:


With another 6 degrees timing @ 6k it's quite a bit faster.

It ran much smoother. much less NVH

Take it for what its worth but VD has me at 300 +/- on full corn with only a JBR 3"....stock DP, TP CBE, everything. Only AP, Autotechs and the full intake.

Not bad for $700 (used except for AT's) of mods...

And it is actually silly how silent/smooth idle is...

Yeah, it's worth it alone for how smooth the engine runs on it.

Relax brotholemew, I was joking. Just having my brains ooze out from my nose from yet another eng. meeting. Need to utilize these smilies more :smirk:

Mileage about the same as on my 50/50 mix as well. Either way the lower mpg is at LEAST canceled out by the fact that I can save $10-15 on a full fill up, so meh. getting 19-20 mpg on full E. Never got over 25 or so on 93 anyway.

I definitely get less MPG, but I think that's because my foot is much happier...

^ This. My tires are not however.

You can squeeze better than stock mpg out of full corn.

Can... Operative word lol I hear it has something to do with restraint lmfao

That's only 90% of it. 10% of it is tune.

Meh, if I was concerned with mpg's I wouldn't have bought another speed in the 1st place.
But when we had crazy snow/sleet here for days on end I got an extra 40ish miles out of half the tank I used so if treated nicely I know 350 miles per tank is probably possible. But why run full corn if your going to treat the go faster pedal like a virgins bung? Ain't nobody got time for that, smash and dash.

So, something to throw at the brain trust in here....TC-W3.

It's basically a specification of ashless 2 stroke oil designed to be pre-mixed and burned while not fouling spark plugs/leaving deposits all while lubricating a 2 stroke engine. It's popular on a few boards and car communities (BITOG, LS1 crowd, FR-S/BR-Z crowd).

Been testing Oil - Page 54

Anyone adding 2 cycle oil with TCW3 to their gas?? - Scion FR-S Forum | Subaru BRZ Forum | Toyota 86 GT 86 Forum | AS1 Forum - FT86CLUB

The FR-S crowd specifically uses it *to quiet their HPFP* and it makes me wonder if this would help combat the sticky death from another angle, keeping the HPFP lubricated from the fuel side and cool.TC-W3 might help combat sticky death by reducing the amount of fuel boiling happening, and if/when it does happen it could buy some extra time before the pump starts sticking due to the lubrication properties.

It has been used in 4-cycle automotive engines for some time now, and at least in commonly used blends (oz per X amount of gallons) it is harmless at worst.



Motul POWER JET 2T 2-Stroke Oil TCW3 - Gallon (4L) [MOT-828041] EDO Performance

"Up to 3 times more film strength than petroleum based oils
Polar in molecular structure causing the oil to stick to metal? NO METAL TO METAL START UPS
Rated as: TCW-3?/TCWII/TCW/API TD/TSC-4
2-stroke synthetic blend
Injector or premix
Withstands very high running temps"

Give it a shot and let us know.

People...




How hard is it to just buy dexxos spec royal purple......and profit?