I only get afterfires when the engine is really hot from stop and go traffic or having it parked for a few minutes after running.

I would get/still get them rather often. But I attribute that to the VTA bov.

the more open the exhaust system the more prone to after fires as you have removed the muffling effectiveness of the orig system in both reduction of mechanical barriers to the sound (baffles/CATs) and fluid dynamics (backpressure). Add alternate fueling and it will almost always happen.

Within ATR you can modify the Shift Control Tables (Beta) to reduce or enhance it with:

IGN timing clutch in/out
Ign timing (Throttle Closed)

@Enki. your ECT compensation within the above tables is likely why it only occurs when the car is hot..tweak them to reduce the negative ign (-13.5) and you may reduce or eliminate it. (that is if you care lol) cut that in half -7.00 and see what it does. Ignore the low ECT tables and only mod the others.

I have def changed the characteristics of my afterfires with these tables. I think you can even tune them out completely with a VTA setup which is quite an accomplishment.

I believe these tables are also used in part for MegaSpool/antilag. i.e. clutch out = more neg timing ( more afterfires/spool)...throttle closed = more fuel delivery (also afterfires/spool). they will also spool the turbo with little to no load for boost at launch.

I must learn this...
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04...03c0ae41cb.jpg

Fapped over pics of Laguna Seca

Thanks @Dano;, though it's rare enough that I (still) enjoy shooting fireballs at the people behind me.

haha I thought as much. I can't shift without after fires with any more than ~40% throttle...I think that happens to coincide with my WMI kicking it at >8PSI.

I had it tuned out at some point but then changed E85 ratio/scalar/offset, or Meth nozzle size or any number of other variables changed and I have not cared to go back in and tweak it.

Keeps the peeps around me honest :)

lol surely there is an entire thread dedicated to it but IDK where. The drag racers especially, have used them a lot. IIRC some launch at 20+PSI.

@Realgib3; do you know of any threads that cover this (see my post below #844 ) or are you guys keeping it a secret ;)

So now that I have a job again, i has monies. So I am ordering a few a few fuel level senders and will be soaking them in E85. I will be applying different treatments to each test subject. Once I get it figured on the bench I'll throw it in my car for some more testing.


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so Mark comes in here and likes a post but totally ignores my request for knowledge on the megaspool...guess that is an answer of sorts regarding its secrecy. :)

let's try this again...ya know just to make sure...

@Realgib3;

No you didn't... Lmao 1hr... Wanted to hulk smash my phone three minutes in....

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Maybe start with the obvious and compare genWIN pump assembly with a genPU?

I wish I was being sly with that, but really I haven't fully tested anything. It's all in Nishan's head at this point.

O I C.

Then I say, off with his head!

So, little update that doesn't really pertain to much about e85. I've been trying to empty my tank by driving around (yes I know there are easier ways, but they aren't as much fun), so I can go back to 93 and see if it fixes the fuel sender problem since I just replaced it around a month and a week ago I believe and it shouldn't be dead this quickly.

This morning as I was driving down past my local shell station, I was literally 500-750 feet away, I feel my car hiccup a bit, and just kind of go limp. I'm literally able to coast to the light, turn left, then turn into the Shell station, and stop at a pump. Tried to start the car, no gas. Either I'm fucking awesome with my calculations, or I'm just lucky, i'd like to think i'm fucking awesome, but that's just my opinion.

I filled up 93, switched to my 93 tune, drove home, fuel level went up to 2 bars, CEL went off for the fuel level sender. So going to see if this fixes the "problem". Hopefully it will keep going up the more I drive. If so, I might just be staying on pump for a while (groan, i know, but I do like knowing how much fuel I have).

If I still have an issue with the sender, then fuck it, back to full e85. Also, I haven't done anything to the fuel pump, or added anything since about a month ago when I put about a half bottle of SI-1 in the tank and went to a 50/50 mix, after a fill-up with e85 started giving the sender problems already. So if this doesn't work, and I go back full e85, I still won't touch the pump and see how long before/any/if problems arise, for science!

Was your issue on the connector or on the float arm? Can't remember, and the phone isn't search friendly. @g00s3y;?

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Right where the pins connect, was completely corroded. This time I don't know what it looks like yet. I haven't been motivated enough to pull it again and look. Maybe when I do the battery relocation I will check again.

Went 70 miles so far today, fuel level is only showing 2 bars, and range says 63 miles left. When I filled up, range was at 37 left.

I have a GenWin, so only speculating here but maybe next time you replace the dielectric grease with an RTV?

Permatex® Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant 3oz Tube 80050

Temp, chem resistant etc like the grease but would be a more permanent seal as opposed to being subject to washing off gradually.
@Enki; @littleloogy; thoughts?

Yeah, i'm definitely down to try something else the next time I replace it. Not sure when that will be though. On my second tank of 93 right now, fuel level went to 2 bars again after fill up. Range started at 53, drove about 15-20 miles, went down to 36. Came back out from Target, started it up, range was 56. After last night and driving this morning, it is back down to range 0 and 0 bars for fuel level, after doing 83 miles.

I'm actually going to be free tomorrow, I may pull it to inspect since I can get to it from the top. I won't be replacing it, but I'll post up some pics of what it looks like if I inspect.

I'm really questioning how this new sender went so quickly (lasted less than 2000 miles), when the original one went 53k+ until problems started.

I think the issue is that the contacts corrode so using RTV will just permanently keep them from working...Unless I'm misunderstanding the situation there's not a way to keep the fuel off of them (which is what causes the corrosion) without disabling the fuel level sender.

Maybe it would be better to either solder over each individual pad or replace the contacts with something that won't fail like this...

Just out of curiosity, maybe I missed it, but has anyone ran the RP Dexos oil without S1?

Doing it now with IE internals over 900 miles without issue.


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Yeah, I did. It lasted far, far longer without issue than my car did on T6, but alas, it too was short lived (< 2 tanks before spill valve issues, which, arguably, was an easy fix but came back again anyways).

I'm well over 1k miles now, without a hiccup. Also, I have not touched my pump since the last time, which was several months before I even switched over to full corn.

Hmm I think I misunderstood how the contacts were being exposed. Are they open to fuel intentionally? I was under the assumption the fuel was simply seeping in between the connection points and then getting at the actual contacts, which is why I suggested RTV.

Going off of this picture it seems the contacts themselves could be covered/sealed completely in with RTV. It won't affect the signal as the line underneath is still complete. We did this in the Navy all the time with wires and connections for jet parts that had to deal with corrosion.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1430738432

Though in another thread @Voltwings; said he "covered" his contacts with "silicon" so IDK if he meant RTV or what? Or whether it worked out for him.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ensors-119655/


For the life of me i cant remember what i used. It may have been some sort of di-electric grease?

You running E? Or did you switch back to petroleum?


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Sold the car a while back, but i want to say i ran the car for another ... probably 40-45k miles after that fix on a 25% E85 blend with no issues.

So, i dont know if i should attribute it working to the grease / silicone, or going down in concentration, but going down in concentration on other cars i tuned seems to have prevented that problem for them. Lots of ifs, ands, and buts, but that's my assessment of the situation.

Ah, got you. I'll tell you what. I'll test this sometime in the future on your behalf with 100%E. If it works then we will give you credit for fixing the gen2 fuel level sender unit.


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I used di-electric grease on mine when I replaced it, still went dead within a couple months. Was doing 50/50 for a week or two I believe, then went to full e and on the 3rd fillup it started going out. I switched back to 93 only, hoping that might help, and still nothing.

I wonder if there is just something that makes some cars more prone than others, because it seems a lot of people who have this problem have had it multiple times, and usually in quick succession after the first replacement ... interesting.

Deluxe Liquid Gold Plating System Jewelry Immersion Kit Gold Plating Kit | eBay

"It will NOT work, however, on stainless steel, lead, pewter, tin, aluminum, lacquered or non-metallic surfaces."

I'm not sure what the current contact is made from, but it might be worth $30 to try it.

E85 Remedy with HPFP Hardware modifications http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...d.php?t=164812

Post 372 and so on...


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So, just pulled mine again, here's what it looks like.

E-85 Cure With Fuel Additives
 

You have a meter?

Edit: Does it ohm out okay?


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To be honest, I didn't even check, could clearly see the corrosion and that it wasn't making contact. Phone pictures, sorry they couldn't be better. Just finished soldering it and will be checking everything before it gets all put back together.

That a baby. Hope it works!


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She's alive!!!!

E-85 Cure With Fuel Additives
 

Great now go dump your gas tank on the ground and get some EEEeeeee!


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Just an update, went out to my car today, started her up, gauge reads 0...

So, pulled it again, found out the contacts on the little "swinger arm" were no longer touching, must have bent them reassembling. Bent them back a little bit so they would make contact, all is now good.

Cutting up the interior a little to get to this thing was the greatest idea ever, because fuck dropping the tank each time to do this...

You want to rig it so there is clamping force on the contacts. Mine still working great! It sure is depressing watching how fast my fuel level drops.


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