Oh no, I ditched that method a long time ago. I would only resort to that if my pump/spill valve died on me while driving. What I am doing is maintenance free. Rebuild pump, and go.

Almost sounds like it's been 6k since his last rebuild? patiently waiting for teh wisdoms

Show me your ways master!

More info!

It is quite simple really. The idea is using this additive as a barrier between the fuel and the oil. @Enki; has shown us the reaction of oil and boiling hot E85 (black death). By adding Si-1 to the pump itself where the reaction is happening, theoretically will change the properties of resulting sticky goo we know as death.

Since adding Si-1 to the pump, I have been able to drive an incredibly long amount of time without experiencing any kind of fuel pump failure. Even my spill valve does not develop sticky death failure.

What interval and is it the same steps as you were Doing before -Unscrewing that top nut and adding the si1 with a dropper?

My take after that post would be he rebuilt the pump while putting the additive inside the pump and has since had issues. So basically what he initially did but only once with with either the same amount or a larger amount.

Yes. Here is what I did yesterday while changing my oil.

Put some si-1 in a shot glass.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...61b4bd9e18.jpg

Make sure to clean the bore contact points on the pump and fastener. I used Si-1.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...c87b81a8e7.jpg

Use Si-1 as your lube for the piston.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...0097dfb4fc.jpg

Slide the piston into the fastener install spring and then add a ML of si-1 inside the cup.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...bcbefee910.jpg

Install the bore. A bit of additive may escape, that's OK wipe it away.

Keep the internals vertical and turn the pump upside down. Bring the pump to the internals. Install and torque normally.

The first test was a few hundred miles just to note the difference. The second time was thousands of miles. I only rebuilt the pump to show everyone, not because it needed it. You can reference my log as to how well the pump was working a few days ago.

@udntknw;

It's public now. Get to testin!

For documentation sake, what oil are you using currently?

Royal purple... Shit works really well.

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

I can confirm that the RP DEXOS 1 oil had the least issues on full corn for me.

I will put it to the test with a different oil, i would think with SI-1 it wouldnt matter what oil youre running though.

It might though. A dexos oil is going to be more resistant to fuel than, say, T6. When my first UOA came back on the RP, it had 0% fuel dilution.

I dont fuck with T6 anymore, Ill be running a 20w50 to keep up with the extreme heat and pressures ill be seeing. Right now either Valvoline VR1 or HPS Royal Purple.

So all your doing after u clean the pump is inject the fuel additive in the pump to basically lube all the components and that's it? And lasted thousands of miles?

Pretty much @mazdafreak; just Lube the piston and fill the faster with additive after the piston has been inserted. Then insert the bore into the fastener and then assemble pump.

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

Well fuck me. That's awesome..... I have a bottle of the additive in my garage. Guess I'll take pump apart tomorrow!


Guess it makes perfect sense since that's where it all happens...... But you would think the additive would just wash away in the pump after a lil while after.

Where the additive is going should be sealed off. The pump is designed to keep fuel out of the oil and oil out of the fuel. We are in a sense putting the additive in the reaction area.

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

Fixed.

Ahh okay. Yeah that does make sense!

Well thanks for all ur hard work to help figure this all out. Goes for u too enki

Time will tell. Testing will be needed to prove/
Disprove this theory.

It certainly seems like the best solution yet, plus you could continue to run SI-1 through the tank for more protection. If this could get through 2-3 oil changes consistently I think you have a solid solution at hand.

This probably doesn't belong in this exact thread, but....

Does anyone here know a mechanical engineer who could redesign the pump to outperform the OEM version? I realize that this is designed to deliver fuel at extreme pressure, but surely SOME improvement could be made to prevent the underlying issue altogether. Just a thought.

Thanks for all your hard work @littleloogy; @Enki;

I know many engineers and all fields. Question is, DO YOU have the resources and funds?

If it's a NATOR member, I would hope that they would donate at least some of their time to the cause. With 3D computer modeling and 3D printing, I don't see any reason why this couldn't be figured out pretty cheaply.

All we need is a new retaining nut that leverages a valve guide type of a setup (like the cobalts use) or is two piece with a solid PTFE bushing as a seal instead of o-rings.

Or something.

Yeah, here is the thread you need.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...d.php?t=164812

So i didnt know that this thread existed...but i have also been looking for a chemical coating solution for the internals....im going to try this additive this week, but here are some of the coatings i have found.
EP21TPND Product Description | MasterBond.com
http://damonq.com/red-kote.html

Tell me your thoughts.

-phillip

Chemical coatings won't work on the internals; the tolerances are tight enough that it will probably cause lubrication problems if you tried.

Surface max temp of.250*....

Shit, littleloogy got banned. :/

For what?

Yep, what Enki said. Will end badly, don't do it. Might not kill the pump immediately, but over time it will.

Sent from my GS3 running CM11, via FapDaCock

Just a vacation. He will be back in a couple weeks.

for what?

He hooked me up with a spill valve after I broke my connector. We broke fs rules by negotiating before pics were posted. Then he jokingly told mod staff to blow him, sarcasm doesn't translate well on the interwebs. I feel really bad about it, dude saved my ass and caught a suspension over it.

Technically, he sarcastically asked for a suspension, if memory serves. He got one.

Still sucks.

Don't sweat it, we all need a break from the forms at times!

Anyone else start trying the latest method?

I'm lining up locals now...Just a matter of time.

First conversion/test happening with a local tomorrow, so long as everything leading up to it goes well.

Results to follow.

I'm hoping I'm up and running in a week or so and both Dustin and I will be trying it out, I'll be breaking in on pump then switching over after like 500 miles

Vehicle #1 is undergoing testing. Initial test (with me chasing) went very well. I'll be monitoring logs and driver impressions/observations for the duration.

With only 40% APP (14 psi peak, 11 psi @ redline), it hauls ass and redline is punctuated by about 8" of fire out the exhaust and the sounds of gunfire. Good shit.


Side note: I manually actuated the pump internals a few times (with spring attached) to make sure that the redline stuff was circulating/penetrating the entirety of the internals.

Also, test vehicle is on Rotella T6.

I'm gonna run this method starting Tuesday.... Gonna inject that shit in there

My AP, autotech's and rmm are in the mail for my 100% stock 07 speed 3. I'll be a tester for this as well as getting some #'s for a stock everything (minus fp and ap of course) speed on E. I didn't go 50/50 on my speed 6 until long after mods and AP etc etc.

Primary test subject has this to say tonight:

He's doing 3rd gear logs while the e-tune gets worked out. Still no issues.

Edit: Wheelspin in third, partially due to shitty tires.

First tank down. 12.3 gallons and 150 miles later... I guess the tune is nearing completion, as it's been dialed back a bit but still needs some MAF/boost work. Looking over the logs there is a LOT left in this thing, they are shooting for 18 PSI and only have 16.5 timing @ 6k.

I asked him why he wanted the tune dialed down a bit and he responded thusly:
The "toned down" map has him about 350 tq and 300 hp or thereabouts.

12 gallons and 150 miles.

lol.

Once the fuel trims settle and you have a tune that can leverage the E85 at cruise(lean burn anyone?) the MPG shouldn't be too bad. @Enki do you think it has the fuel for ~320-330whp?

Potentially. Once the tune is locked down on this car I'm going to ask for a 4th gear log on a known good stretch of road for final vdyno numbers, which I'll post here. I'll probably get video, too (speedo shot).

AP received, 93 tune near finished.....AT's ready to install and I can't find any Redline locally. @Enki; @PapaSmurf; Where did you find yours?

@Enki; sorry if I missed this somewhere, but what are the mods on test vehicle #1 ? Does it have ported IM or aftermarket exhaust manifold? Or is it just the basic intake/DP/intercooler setup?

O'Reillys carries it local for me.

No O-reillys within 50 miles of me unfortunately. Been to NAPA, Advance and Autozone and struck out.

pep boys? dunno if they are nationwide??
thats where i picked mine up. ive been lazy and havent pulled apart the internals to lubricated them. gone about 4 tanks with no additives?? lol idk why i havent had any hpfp woes. prob tear it down this coming wknd to do this process.
Enki i have brian (max's old ms6) switched over to full E he will be testing with us as well in phx.

Local car parts store, Oreiley's. Pretty sure you can buy the shit on Amazon as well; we used enough to fill the pump as a priming and preventative agent but also dumped the rest in the gas tank.

It's basically fully bolted, sans manifolds.


On full E with no additive, it's only a matter of time (which is why testing with the additive is so important at this stage).

No Oreillys anywhere near me and Pepboys is like 45 minute drive. Checked multiple Advance/AZ's and a NAPA with no luck.

I ordered a bottle off Amazon this morning I was just hoping to find one local because I'm impatient.

Status update on the only current local test car:

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1410481161

Yep, that's all there is to report.

Bleh never checked email, used old card number on Amazon to order Redline. Went from expecting it in the mail yesterday to never even ordered. Got impatient, installed autotechs, tuning the 50/50 for now. Anything new @Enki; and when the heck is @littleloogy; comin back? 9/15? 30 days I'm assuming?

Nothing new. Test car is still rocking full corn on T6 and loving it. The man comes back on the 19th.

Ah ok....

Now coming from 50/50 blend on my speed 6 I had expectations....and a certain acclimation...

50/50 on the speed 3.....

This thing is actively TRYING to kill me.....

It's even better on full.

Saw this today....sounded interesting at least. Biobor Eb Fuel Additives - Products

16 oz for 240 gallons?
Sounds like oily reptile to me.

Here is the MSDS for it...I'm sure yall can make more sense of it than me :) http://www.biobor.com/Biobor-Resourc...0EB%20MSDS.pdf

@littleloogy; is back!

still successfully running full E with SI-1 directly injected into pump?

finally got my car running!

Fuck, I guess the cat is out of the bag... Still the same as post #308 . I have not touched the pump since. Beat the shit out of it for thousands of miles. Works good. I am curious how far I can go. But in my opinion, an oil change frequency is good enough for me.

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

looks like i'm going to be running full E. Thanks for all your work!!

@littleloogy; What are you doing about your fuel level sensor? Mine went out with E30 at the beginning of the summer :(.

@Dimenus; I have a stick that I carry with me ;-)

On a serious note, I track it by mileage and keep a mental note of how much I go WOT. I will eventually be removing my ITFP and attempt to create an easy fix solution for the level sending unit, since I don't like to spend money or go to the dealer if I don't have to.

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

I recall reading gen1 and ms6's have a different level sensor that isn't prone to corrosion. If that's correct would it be a direct swap?

Pu has digital bar graph for level. IIRC. MZ3 def is bar graph so likely totally dif signal.


Tappin

Do you know who makes our pumps @Dano; ???

I know you have had yours out before. I would like to study the patent.
Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

I have a complete extra can assembly so I can dig it out tomorrow and look at the pump.

If I can find it. Lol.

Tappin

I would really appreciate that. Thank you sir.

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

My 2010 has a Denso pump with number 1951 on it. If that helps.

I didn't find it in the few easy places to look. I have a few boxes of MS3 stuff up in my shop attic that I will try and get to this weekend.

Perhaps you sub conscientiously installed it in your toilet. Don't go out of your way for it, if its not handy it can wait.

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

SL-1 in tank to prevent corrosion of the fuel level sensor?

lol very likely. at that time I was chasing a fuel pressure issue, went through all the trouble of creating an access panel in my floor pan, to avoid a tank drop, replaced the entire can and still had the issue. Turned out to be the FP sensor. soooo I might have destroyed the old can..lol

you can see detailed pics of the parts including sensor here

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ml#post1075768

from the pic looks like I had a Denso but its hard to make the numbers out except for 7112 at the end

edit 2: pictures > words

http://mail.netsecurenow.com/img/itfp/pump1.jpg

I have no evidence to support your theory. Quite the contrary, I had no problems running 50/50 or full E. Ran 20,000 miles this way. After I started Si-1 is when I had my level sender go out. I can't say that the cleaner is the cause or not.


Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

I ran various e mixes for 20k. Then switched to full e and my sensor was screwed in about 5 minutes. Had a 10 pu since it was new at the time.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

Sounds about right. It would not be so bad if we could get to the unit easily. Modding/replacing the level sender would be a piece of cake otherwise.


Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

Random question.

Where did you get that mL syringe? I cant seem to find one locally.

I am in the process of burning out the last of my 91 and will be switching to full E with the 6466.

8 injectors + corn + 6466 = interesting?

You can buy em at any pharmacy

You are joining the club? Awesome! I see the syringes everywhere. Best place is a pet/very supply.

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

If anyone needs a few, PM me your address. I have a box here. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/24/uqa8asy8.jpg

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

I am having a hard time seeing wtf can get messed up with the sending unit in this pic. stupid simple.

http://mail.netsecurenow.com/img/itfp/float1.jpg

I suppose that's why the genwan doesn't have issues. The gen2 must be totally different.

hope you guys get this all figured out by 2017 when I get my AWD MS3. :)

I think it must have been a bad batch of sending units honestly. I have ran 50/50 almost 3 years in my 2011.

Yeah, I'm still at a loss. I guess I'll just have to nibble and pull my pump out tomorrow. I'm going to copy your method.

Your getting a gen 3 too??? As soon as they announce, I'm pre ordering.

EDIT: IF THEY MAKE IT. :-/

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

Go full e and find out... I thought my pump was invincible, I was wrong.

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

No full E in my future. I don't have enough fuel as it is lol.

yeah big if....Will strongly consider it only if its AWD. If they pussy out again...I'll keep my 07 for fun and get a nice SUV. Should know something from Mazda by spring '16 id think.

would the fuel sensor issue be the same as this one? http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ensors-119655/

edit; post #20 and #21

someone recommended applying dielectric grease on the sender strip, it's all in that thread

Mine went out at the beginning of this summer with < 1k miles of E30 on it. The new one has lasted several thousand miles NP. I've always made a point of putting the E in the tank 2nd thought to dilute the 93 rather than E 1st since I've had it changed.

Never had an issue on my 2010 and have been doing 50/50 for awhile.

I'm curious if climate affects it at all. We get fucking stupid temp spreads in Wisconsin. -40 last winter to 90 this summer.

Quack quack motha fucka, cold Speed3 is here.

???

Has your car never quacked hahaha?