My FSB bushings make stupendous amounts of noise in the winter lol.

Replacing those suck btw. I helped a local nator member and just damn lol

Tapatalked

just a little update.

Tuned the car on full corn yesterday after rebuilding my pump with SI-1.

All I can say is wow.

6466 @ 31 psi. Out of injector. Need to get 2000cc's to replace these 1000cc.

The car has about 150 miles on full E now, with multiple turn off and restarts. I did not however try to start it today. I will tomorrow though.

Curious...is your maf draw thru or blow thru?

Draw threw. 3.5 inch and it's actually maxed out at he moment.

I maxed my injectors and maf voltage.

Very Nice. I have a 3.5 maf housing laying around if you decide you want to upgrade. It is a true 3.5" ID....3.75OD....most 3.5" housings on the market are 3.3x ID for comparison. If you find yourself in need, hit me up and i'll direct you to the old for sale ad.

Mines a custom 3.5 and I'll just have my buddy re weld a new one. Pretty quick and easy.

Good deal. So with the full E85 over 50/50....have you noticed an increase in power/tq or just ease of fillup?

Have only tuned the car on full e, so I wouldn't know lol

What are you scaling your MAF to for reducing IDCs from the HPFP?

I dont tune my car, Dustin does. I can take a look at my map once I am home from work.

I can tell you my IDC's are around 115 at the moment.

Estimation would be around 630 whp uncorrected.

As of right now I can adjust my FPR pressure up to give myself about 15-20 percent more fuel (right now its at 45psi and I could easily put it up to 60-70psi), which could net some decent power but it wouldnt be enough to go 40+psi.

You have a build thread? I'd like to read up on your setup!

look in the big turbo section. Papasmurf round #2

Almost through a full tank of E with no issues.

Anyone else testing have updates?

Sometimes no news is good news... I am now bored. I need a new project.

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

New project: Straight pipe from hotside to TB on full corn with a dash of chemical intercooling.

You sure know how to give my life meaning. This is brilliant @Enki; the K04 will flow better then BT at controlled bats that I set. Sounds like fun.

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

Do work son.

Edit: Keep the piping the same size as the turbo outlet, and if you do add WMI, have it close to the cold side outlet, and wait to step up the size to match the throttle body; a drop on pressure/velocity from the step up in pipe size should result in a minor decrease in temps.

Yes, I will eventually be using WMI. I am curious, when using wmi is it best to have the bpv located prior to the spray or as far away as possible?

Stepping up the pipe late decreasing temps? Similar to an A/C system as the compressed air passes through an orifice?

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

I don't really think it matters BPV wise. Worst case, you get some pre-cooled air back into the turbo. Best case, you don't get pre cooled air, but you get a hit of extra cooled air during the shift. It might be best to get one of those WMI spacer plates that's coming out.

For us laymen please elaborate! :)

No intercooler, pipe going from turbo outlet to throttle body....ie minimize amount of piping and no pressure loss....relying on purely methanol for intercooling purposes and E85 for knock protection.....Actually should work fine. I did this on my old mustang. 93 pump tune. No intercooler. Methanol....ran 7psi like that (centrifugal supercharger) with no issues and made 430hp on a stock 3v engine.

Thanks! Sounds like fun. Curious how much more could be squeezed out of the K04 on that setup. Looking forward to someone trying it.

@phate; put a piece of cardboard over his stock TMIC back when running full e85 was a new thing. If memory serves, he got bored of doing 6th gear pulls @ 220 BATs and/or ran out of fuel and the car didn't once give a single fuck. I think that was in the winter though, so there's a difference in inherent charge outlet temps to be considered.

Silly question but would you have to constantly spray a small amount of meth for cruising or just at wot, would non intercooled air be fine for daily purposes?

Edit: never mind that was just answered

Yeah, @phate; tuned me, he quickly talked me out of all kinds of parts on the premise I wouldn't need them running 50/50. The car is a beast and we haven't finished it on the dyno yet. I keep trying to get him to push it towards ZZB but we won't budge :) I have less than a grand in go fast parts.

You don't need all the go fast parts to go fast with k04 and E85...the go fast parts simply help the turbo be more efficient....and they come into play later on with BT

Oh I'm well aware, still need some to talk me off the ledge!

Might have some potential ringland failure with my car, which if that's the case, a full on build will take place at some point.

Let's just say that @littleloogy; won't be the only one running full E85 with no intercooler.

If I know you like I think I know you, you are going to be doing something that has not been done before, hints the secrets. Most likely something engineerish mixed with some Motörhead? And yes, intercoolers are for pussies.

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

Yes, essentially it will be a small scale test for my Falcon build. If it works out how I hope, shit will be rather impressive.

The best way to learn to swim is to jump in the water, not standing on the sidelines watching. But then again, you do have a much better view of the chicks in bikinis staying out. So... At least you will have that going for you. [emoji8]

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

found this:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...cooler-120445/

@phate; has already proven that E85 is the honey badger of the fuel world. With enough WMI, you can get the same (and higher) "intercooler efficiency" plus the benefit of lower overall pressure ratio combined with better spool.

Redline finally came in the mail yesterday. Plans for today but fuel pump coming out tomorrow and getting redone with S-1 to join the testing.

What oil you going to run?

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

I was going to pick up some RP seeing as it had such positive results. Is there another we wanted to try out?

I'm headed out for a family day shortly but oil isnt being bought until tonight or tomorrow morning. Let me know if there some other brand/weight etc you were curious about.

I'm running VR1 10w30 without issue

Good choice @MSP6;. Royal Purple is some good shit. Godspeed

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

Try to get the one with the DEXXOS label. THAT is the monster shit there.

Mmmmmm.....corn.



http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1413127071

3/4 of a tank down @ 200 miles, should be 250-260ish to the tank which while not great is a far cry from the 150 miles that @Enki; 's tester got, and only 40-50 miles less per tank than I got on 93. This is with a handful of logs, some dicking around and a run in with a 370z that left him butthurt x3.
@Enki; that dude must have a HELL of a lead foot lol.

That and his trips are short so the car might not be fully up to temp too (big impact on mileage; has to spray extra fuel to account for the fuel that doesn't vaporize when it hits the piston).

With the proper tune and bolt ons, you *can* get as good MPG as you got stock; driving style is the tank breaker though.

Ah ok.

Yeah I expect once the newandshiny of full E85 wears off I'll make some mpg tweaks and see how close I can get to my 93 mileage.....which wasn't very good anyways heh.

The single best piece of advice I can give for full corn MPG is to shift a lot earlier than you're used to...It makes so much more torque down low it's ridiculous; you'll have to experiment but I vaguely recall shifting before 2500 rpm and cruising 45 mph in 6th.

But then how will I hear my bpv at every shift???? I insist EVERYONE in traffic around me knows I haz turbo.

Get an air compressor, regulator and a 12volt solenoid. Every time you want to go "pshhh" all you have to do is hit a button. Now you can save fuel and go "pshhh" as much as you want.

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

Someone has already made a product to replicate the noise!

I can tell you, I have had my car since December of 2006. The "new and shiny" doesn't wear off. No matter the fuel you use.

This.

From the thread: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ecific-138097/


This is, quite literally, the most apt way to explain the differences in potential power between the mixes (not factoring in cars with meth). If you think the above is false, consider that the current Tucson test vechile was on a moderate tune with 50/50 and nearly shit himself with *less* boost on full E, as per his comments I've pasted in this thread earlier.

If you have an e20/e48 mix already, other than the obvious fuel density changes, what else are you doing in the tunes?

A e48 mix allows you to exceed MBT already, just wondering what the difference is in it...

The chemical formula for Ethanol is C2H6O; this is important for that last little atom on the end (oxygen). The more you spray into the cylinder, the greater the cooling effect, and the more oxygen that comes in WITH the fuel; thus, compounding the amount of fuel you can burn (via charge cooling AND chemical addition of oxygen).

I assure you, the difference between 50/50 and 100% is impressive.

Edit: This would be with the same timing/AFR/boost targets; boost targets, incidentally, become more difficult to hit on full e85 as the airflow into the cylinder goes up with WGDC already pegged; thus, a drop in available peak boost. At last check, I think the Tucson test car was hitting 4.4 MAF volts @ 14 PSI (Mazdaspeed CAI converted to SRI) in cooler weather.

Edit 2: Trimmed log attached; car is not making full WGDC in this log; still, shits bonkers.

Thanks @Enki; really appreciate you sharing your knowledge :D

I'm looking to go full e85 early next year (e85 station 2km up the road) so am following yours and @littleloogy;'s results through all this closely :)

Well the fact that loogy added a little redline to his pump after it was already fucked with black death and that brought it back to life is pretty fucking amazing in my book; makes me tempted to try it and see how much boost I can make (now that my pump is back to working properly). I still need to do a leakdown/compression test, but that's a whole different thread.

I want to see someone spray some meth on 100% E, shit would have combustion temps cooler than ambient temps(I keed)! Might be nessesary to add some fueling headroom anyways to max out the K04 with full E. 350whp?

There's a limit to how cool you *want* the boost temps. Too low, and the e85 wont atomize properly, causing poor combustion and loss in power. I'd say 80 is probably the lowest you'd want, with 100 being probably pretty close to perfect (per findings of others).

If I were to switch back to full e85, I'd probably start with a baseline run and drop my wmi nozzle size then compare the two (same day). I'm pretty sure too cold and it doesn't run as good.

Here is some more info to think about:
I run Methanol in my karts (Briggs flathead). Temperature of the head plays role in combustion. When the head temps lower id est 60-190°, the performance suffers. I have to manually lean my fuel mixture out while i am warming up to get my temps above 220° before my kart starts to make good power. Then I have to richen the mixture back to maintain that temp. When I am racing, the hotter my temp gets the more power my kart has. When the temps get colder my performance suffers.

I suggest that increasing our engine coolant temperature to help yield more power with the same amount of fuel. Is there any after market thermostats available for our platform?


Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

I'm not sure ECTs are the way to go, when just dialing back the intercooling can yield the same effect; I do remember (vaguely) that when I was on full corn, the car would run like complete shit until the ECTs hit a magical number (between 100 and 140 IIRC) and then it would just come alive. After that, though, there were no performance detriments based on ECTs that I can recall.

Potential failure in the local test car. 3 full tanks gone without issue, currently on the 4th. 45 seconds to start today, constantly breaking up when trying to drive led to using his daily instead. Cause still unknown, but assuming fuel pressure loss.

Diagnosis, cause analysis and repair process information will be forthcoming when available.

It is unfortunate that Rotella and E just don't mix together. I jumped back on board with the additive testing with RP to verify my pervious results.

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

Yep his hpfp took a shit. 50-60 psi @ idle. I'll be heading down to tear it down and diagnose in about 3 hours or so.

I'll be getting the test car to switch over to RP at some point as well, because he don't wanna go back.

OK so I forgot to bring *all* the tools needed to do a full breakdown, and I have limited time for lunch today due to surprise customer buttsecks so I took the pump home with me for detailed analysis and cleaning later today.

Strangely, even though the outside of the spill valve was somewhat sticky, the needle itself was not. The internals, however, do not move freely and are definitely short stroking/sticking.

The pump (inside) looks terrible.

Here's a sneak preview of the horrors that await me:

so far so good on my VR1.

The car has 1 tank through it and currently on my 2nd tank, dont drive it much though.

Even one full tank is still progress. I'm assuming that the local here was getting about 200/tank, maybe a bit less, but still, that's between 500 and 600 miles on T6 before it crapped out.

I'll take that progress any day.

I think I got 150 miles out of the first tank lolol

lead foot.

@Enki; Was that on AT's?

Yes but that doesn't really matter, and anyone that tells you otherwise doesn't know what they're talking about. Hint: the most disgusting pump I've ever seen came off a stock cx7 and had stock internals. When I got it, the part that bolts to the head (that the pump bolts to too) was included because the pump couldn't be removed without significant force (I had to use a vice and pry bar and all kinds of sick shit). I get nightmares to this day about that pump.

I will note that the difference between cleaning this pump with the additive used previously and a pump that had not used it was significant; just squirting a bit on some of the parts removed gunk/sticky down to bare metal, which prompted me to fill a bowl with naphtha and let shit roll around for a bit (this got most of it off, but I did use q-tips and paper towels for the thick shit).

It took a bit longer than it usually does for me to clean a pump, but I flushed it out real good as there were bits of black shit in the buffer compartment that needed to get the fuck out. Otherwise, it was easy. Hopefully I'll be able to get this car back on the road in a couple hours, depending on if/when the owner wakes up.

Anywho, this is what the damage was (warning, full-res pictures):

(Not pictured: I also tore my pants.)

I'm hoping this is just because rotella. Even if my pump only lasts two tanks, it takes me about a month to go through 2 tanks. So I would be more then willing to rebuild a pump every two tanks. Takes a whole 20 min if that.

It probably is because rotella. Honestly, it might even be feasible to just pull the spill valve and flush with the redline, which I was going to try but couldn't find an automotive syringe that would allow me to do that. It's on the list for next time, which will come in another 3-4 tanks most likely.

So what oils are recommended, here in europe we dont have same asortment of oils, can't find royal purple or rotella for example. I see papasmurf mentioning VR1, if that is Valvoline we can get that. Best source right now for oil for me is http://opieoils.co.uk or http://mapodo.de (mostly castrol). What are we looking for in an oil going full E on our platform?

Been wondering similar things... A full oil change of royal purple is just over $100 ($85-90 US at current exchange rates) here in Australia...

We have http://castroledge.com.au/oils/ much more readily available...

I went from Motul 300v to HPR 5 5W-40 and it seems to be fine, I am running a full tank of E85 on my current tune with SI-1 will see when I run out of gas in a few weeks

Considering doing the @Enki; e85 + oil boiling test... Figure that's about the only way you'd be able to find out about local oils...

HPR5 is rated for E10 only so its possible that I will have the black death? Will see.

More on this?, must have missed this...

Penrite website lists oils by fuel type

E85 lists...

Racing 5 (5w30) for race tho the 5w30 isn't an SN rated oil.
The "every day" oil they recommend is ENVIRO+ GF-5 5W-30

Ive been wondering this since I run through about 2 tanks a week for the past 4 months straight on 50/50. Pressure still holding good but a more compatible oil would be preferable.

Happened years ago... This is the main reference I've found in my searches...
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru....php?p=1565150
Boiling e85 by itself = evaporates cleanly
Boiling e85 with t6 added = black gunk

I saw pictures somewhere, but can't for the life of me find them...

Please continue oil discussions here. http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...d.php?t=107141

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

So far, the best oils I've found are ones certified to work well with E85, like the Dexxos oils (here in the states).

I don't actually recommend that you do this, because in order to produce the sticky, you may need to heat the fuel to flashpoint (which guarantees a fire).

Pictures, description and video here:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ml#post1324983

I was testing to see if a ceramic coating could shed the sticky, but learned something more valuable instead.

Oil does relate to this post, as I am testing SI-1 on full E85 with Penrite oil....

But yes it is going a bit off topic.

S1 used to rebuild pump only-3rd tank, 500+ miles, no pressure dips or issues yet.

Car just sat for 2+ days at 40 degrees or so. 700ish miles total, zero issues at start up.

Forgot to update thread; local test car is back on the road with a new tune hes apparently in love with. He's also going to swap over to RP Dexxos oil soonish and see how long that lasts; I've already set his expectation that we will probably have to pull and build his pump again at some point though.

New update! Test car smokes like a burning coal mine. Troubleshooting to follow.

In a few more days I'll cross 1k miles :woohoo: and will probably pull the pump and re-clean/lube/make sweet love to it just for peace of mind. I work every other weekend and the office is empty and locked so I can use the workbench there to do it. I don't mind pulling and cleaning it once a month as long as its not on my free time.

Smokey turbo running a thinner oil?

Rotella T6.

You blew him up!

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

Lol apparently; could just be the turbo though, since he's running a used baby K right now and has gone through a few others already.

So that additive doesn't work in 40 and colder weather in Chicago. Running 70/30 (85/93). Was using kendell oil the whole time then just switched to brad penn yesterday and spill valve took a shit..... Pulling pump to see if sticky of Black Death.

Has probably no more than 700 miles with that additive. Car does sit a lot tho. I don't daily it and doesn't see rain/snow/salt.

MYbe not additive, but oil I use..... But idk. Just sharing facts

You rebuilt the pump and everything with the additive? Or just ran in the tank or put some in the top of the pump?

So apparently its smoking less and less, and he found some oil on the manifold/turbo flange area. No idea what's up with that, but will be checking in on Saturday. Also compression seemed within a range of 20 on all cylinders, so there's that.

Hmmm...
@Enki; tester's car may have issues..
@mazdafreak;s pump has issues @ 700 miles...

mine has none at near 1k...

scientific deduction...

I haz the sexiest pump. :spankme:

Rebuilt? I cleaned it all out and then Added it to the internals just like littleloogy did



I have always had a problem in cold weather with e85 no matter what. The cold just sucks and sticks the spill valve.

Gonna take it apart soon.





I'm not the tester car...... Just someone who runs E and not trying to clean pump all the time lol..... My car does sit a lot. If that factors in or not.

I know, that's why I separated the two lines. Your car, as well as the testers car. No real point or logic to my post. Just announcing the sexiness of my exactly similar pump....:ms3rick:

Also, FWIW I didnt just clean my internals alone. I hit the internals, spill valve and entire pump insides with S-1 goodness.

How much did u put in spill valve? When I did that, my pressure was 60psi till shit started flowing. Or that normal till fuel starts circulating through the pump?

I generally crank over for 3 seconds (holding down clutch and throttle). After the time elapses I let go of the throttle and I get a good clean high pressure start. If I cold start without doing this... It stumbles briefly.

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

Yeah that's exactly what mine did. So either way it's normal till gas starts flowing again.

@littleloogy; how much did u put in the spill valve?