I use to do this on cold starts in the morning so my car wasn't so loud waking everyone up around it lol and I was only 93 octane then

It starts the car at lower rpms so it's not so loud

I meant for full E.

I just realized that your "Unicorn" has no horn, effectively making it just a gay pony.


:tongue:

"gay pony"


Totally lol'd at that!

It totally has a horn, just not where you expect it to be. Why do you think the tail is so fluffed up like that?

It is snowing where you are? Shit I doubt it. When in was testing this additive a year ago on my way to Tahoe, I had major problems starting up there in 20° weather. Someone suggested getting a smalls block heater to keep the fuel pump warm during the winter months. When that death gets cold it gets extremely sticky. I am currently in 45°low and 55° high...

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

On pump gas, I can pull the spill valve connection and the car will start first crank. On full e, even with >500 psi it doesn't want to start on the first go.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1419074320





Also, its been in the 20's if not high teens here most mornings for the past month. A few long cranks but thats it. @littleloogy; that's all far too much thought and effort at 430 am when I leave for work. Sit in car, eyes still closed, turn key until magic happens......profit.

Got a video of the cold start "stumble". I have new NGK plugs coming tomorrow. Also will be switching to 5w-40 RP from 5w-30 RP, hopefully will help calm down the annoying FP internals squeak. Other than that, everything has been running well. Only getting around 16-17MPG, but that's expected.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6FA5JVv_ww - Like i said, it's very minor, but it is there. I think after the next oil change and cleaning of the HPFP it will go away.

Is this the squeak you're talking about? If so, nothing to do with what oil you're using :) I had the squeak, switched my HPFP tables to the one Enki posted in that thread, squeak went away.

Nope, got rid of that squeak a couple weeks after I installed the internals by adjusting the tables. This one always happens upon light acceleration, or tip-in. Read up on a lot of people with 5w30 type oil hearing it more than it is with 5w40. Nothing to worry about, but it's just annoying to me, and I don't like my car being annoying. :nono:

You can get at least some of that MPG back. Lean burn cruise tune with max timing set to 40, and shifting at a lower rpm (under 2500).

When I was testing E mpg I was in the mid twenties. Now I just want to go fast and am getting on average 15mpg

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

This thread right - http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ng-atr-107362/

Yeah, I had set that actually on my pump tune, noticed an increase in MPG. Although when I did the same for my e mix tune, I didn't notice anything extra, but I think that's because of the heavy foot I had at the time after enjoying tuning on e. I'll get that set up next revision.

I'm not sure you want to go that hard on the afrs/timing. Leaning out too much reduces power output, and again, you need a certain amount of power (throttle in this case) to sustain a set speed.

I don't really recall much gains when going from say 15 AFR target to 17, and it didn't drive as good. Right now I'm running 14.7 and getting the best MPG I've ever had due to driving style changes alone.

this is the key to getting MPG with a performance car...which is contradictory to the reason for getting a performance car...lol

When I was on a 42.5/33 mix of e, I was getting around 200 each tank at the start. After not being so pedal happy, I would easily get 300 a tank. I see no reason why I can't get 250 a tank on e without making any changes.

If leaning it out won't do that much, I won't even bother. I did notice it "hiccup" a bit on my pump tune, not much, but it was noticeable sometimes. I'm about 500 miles in, loving the $30 fill-ups.

I typically get 220-230 miles per tank on full E. During the few days we had bad snow etc here I got 250 soemthing. Thats with 1/4 a tank of normal driving. If you babied the shit out of it I could see 275 but then whats' the point of running full E?

Being able to be the cool guy at the car meet that says "Yeah, I'm on E", and people stare thinking you mean the drug.

This has actually been covered lots of times in a number of threads.

@Enki; ..... lol

I meant if you babied the shit out of it I could see getting 275 miles to the tank but if your going to feather foot it everywhere then whats the point of running E?

Not as in why is running full E better than 50/50


you think thats bad? plug "meth" in on craigslist at work and see the looks you get :261:

So, ordered RP from amazon, had the dexos-1 specs and all that good stuff. And instead I got sent this, wish I had a European Mazda...
http://i57.tinypic.com/2j51bup.jpghttp://i58.tinypic.com/15mh2r5.jpg

Going to see if I can just exchange it at Wal-Mart here, don't feel like dealing with shipping it back and hoping I get sent the stuff I want.

Why not just run it and see what happens?

RP doesn't have anything on their site that has Dexos labels on it. Might be the same shit. Worst case, you get the correct one next time.

I don't know if it's a completely different "formula", but it mentions nothing about GM or dexos on the back of this stuff.

http://i59.tinypic.com/2qxojn9.jpg

Then return it.

Previously people have posted the 5w30 with the dexos, you seem to have purchased 5w40 on your original post. On the picture I've quoted the 5w30 on the left mentions dexos and is SN, 5w40 on the right doesn't and is SM.

I don't have access to RP but other brands I do have access to are the same with the different viscosities

Back on additives, the red line is not easily (or cheaply) obtainable to me. However, I can get the RP Max-Clean

Amazon.com: Royal Purple 11722 Max-Clean Fuel System Cleaner and Stabilizer - 20 oz. Bottle: Automotive

At least redline has a mid-SAPS oil that - they say - meets european specifications. All others are full-SAPS.
Probably mid-SAPS works better in DI engines, and this is what I've used so far.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...aea1244baa.jpg
http://royalpurpleconsumer.com/wp-co...ean-101012.pdf

Thanks for posting that, couldn't find it using my phone. I've never done chemistry or anything... Does the RP have the right stuff (in high enough %) as the red line?

I was sticking with additives that contain high levels of polyether anime with naphtha solvents. The properties in the royal purple cleaner are things I don't recognize. I suppose I can get a bottle and do some bench tests if you want.

Certain blends of polyether anime will actually help prevent gummy buildup. Which is what we want. Techron claims that their additive accomplishes this, but I have yet to prove/disprove because of laziness.

Yeah I've found its hard to tell because from what research I've done "polyether anime" isn't a set thing and they chemical can vary from product to product.
RP has a low naphtha so if that's the main solvent then it will not be as good as the red line

Curious, how much does it cost to buy some redline off of Amazon and get it shipped there? Srs, no knowledge at all on international shipping.

$26 apparently in Australia - Redline Oil RED60103 Complete SI 1 Fuel System Cleaner 15oz Bottle | eBay

@cletusb;

Oh, thats not bad. It didn't even take me half a bottle to do my pump. Honestly after that I used a coffee filter to strain what I used and dumped it back in haha. Still half almost a full bottle.

@littleloogy; are you still running the spring solenoid valve mod with the new current way of adding Si-1? I tried reading through the whole thread and found nothing of you mentioning if your still using it or not with new setup. Looking to jump on this bandwagon next spring and just trying to read up on everything.

You are a cheap bastard!
I am not using the spill valve spring mod anymore. Some people have reported pressure issues in the upper RPM region and I felt that any testing that I do in the future should not involve this risk.

I suggest keeping a spare button valve, a spare SV, and a bottle of SI-1 with you at all times. Having these items have saved my ass a few times in the past.

I switched back to gas for a month, I felt as though my car and my clutch needed a break from the sauce. I now have switched back to E85 and since then I have had nothing but problems. You may do everything correct and still develop death in your pump. I am taking notes on my journey back to a problem free pump like @MSP6;

That suck's that your having issues after switching. I store my car durring the winter months and always switch back to full 91 oct. Makes me wonder if I will run into the same problem every time I switch.

Did you rebuild the pump when you switched or just let it be?

Dew nut give up!

What pressure issues? Runaway pressure you mean?


I've been thinking about this, and I know the Redline shit turns the death into a non sticky paste...Well I'm thinking the 91 probably dissolves this protective paste and flushes it out, thus removing the protective benefits of the Redline...That's the only thing I can think of as to why you could go so long on full E but a couple tanks of 91 and it's done.

Getting stuff from Amazon shipping internationally is a bit hit and miss, some products they will just not ship at all, the Redline is one they will not but the will ship the RP.
Shipping prices from Amazon are normally pretty decent (about $9 for a single RP bottle) but there is a promo at the moment if you buy 2 or more different products and pay by Amex shipping is free (have to be smallish items tho)

Thanks, I didn't think to check eBay. I guess $25 isn't too bad but if using a bit every tank it could add up

No selling outside of VIP without all for sale rules followed. Posts deleted.

Yes to the first.

Agreed. I have noticed that the formation of death has slowed down a bit in the SV, but my internals still get sticky every 150 miles. I'm at 1500 miles on this OCI. Hope after I do another pump rebuild and oil change the problem will seize.

Holy fuck...
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...f87dac46c9.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...ca95698527.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...a176d671f4.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...1f048a25dd.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...42986ec6e1.jpg
That is some nasty ass shit right here. Goes to show you how dumping a few ml of Si-1 every few days helps keep the death at bay. I was racing Rice an hr ago, no pressure loss.

That is one gunky funky bitch... Rode hard and put away wet lol. No pressure loss looking like that? I'm amazed. From just a few tanks of 91

Heh I had to order it on Amazon and for whatever reason couldnt get speedy shipping. I thought I was going to have issues so I wanted to have extra to throw at the SV or dump in the tank if I needed to.

3k miles without issue. A conversation at work made me think of something. A big issue with the pump seal may not be the o-ring itself but the torque on it. You want just enough torque to compress the o-ring. Tighter is definitely not better. I hand tightened my internals then used the 18mm deep socket to only give them 1/4 tun or so. If people are cranking down the internals inside the pump they could flatten the o-ring to the point of ineffectiveness. Just a thought. Couldn't recall if there was a torque spec for the internals assembly.

Torque spec is supposed to be around 30-40 ft/lbs. Last rebuild I torqued to 40, this rebuild I torqued to 30 foot pounds. what o-ring? The one on the nut?

I only go hand tight on my internals. It's not the o-ring around the retaining nut, its the x ring AND the floating ring/scraper thats INSIDE the retaining nut that lets oil through.

Yes, that's right, it's not *just* the x-ring on the tip of the nut, there's a scraper too.

Well shit, hope I did not fuck it up.

You didn't. My prior post is fixed now.

So I think my fuel level sender is starting to take a shit. Went and filled up again, wasn't completely empty, but only had 50 miles left according to the car (which means not much really). Only took 9.8 gallons, turned it on, and it was 2 bars less than full. Took it for another 25-30 mile drive, went back, it only took 1.5 gallons. I fully expected it to happen at some point, and have no problem replacing it, just wish it didn't happen in the middle of moving. I'll probably be cutting what needs to get cut so I can access it from the top and replace/fix it quicker.

On another note, do you guys think it will be fine going right back to a 50/50 mix after running full E? I have a full bottle of si-1 still, and figured using half for each of the first 2 50/50 fillups would help, then at the next oil change clean and rebuild the pump with si-1 again just for peace of mind.

Are you switching back to a mix because of your fuel level sender? I don't think that going to a 50/50 mix will preserve the gauge. The connections on the fuel level sender are corroding, there is no stopping it.

This is why I never recommended my Pu locals for the full corn test.

Oh not at all, just doing it for better gas mileage. I don't notice that much of a change from when I was running a 42.5 mix, except I could get 300 out of a tank then. I don't care about it going out, everything in a car eventually fails and needs to get replaced. I'll replace it before I go back to a 50/50 mix so I can be accurate when mixing the fuels.

So, update. Just did an oil change this past weekend. Had a bit of the "sticky boogers" on the internals. Took the whole thing apart again, cleaned and lubed it all up with si-1, fresh RP 5w30. Hopefully all the remnants of T6 are out of there now. Other than start ups being a bit "slow", everything is looking and running good.

Also, with e85 being $1.75/gal right now, and still declining, it might be a while before I decide to go back to a e42 mix. Filling up for ~$25, I feel like I'm back in the 90's again.

Our 87 is at $1.75 right now... Enki what's the current price of e85 at that station?

But I feel ya.. started driving in 2000 which was right when gas was pretty much at it's lowest in history tends to spoil. Good time to have a doritos on a stick car that eats gas like it's going out of style though...

I dunno, I never really pay attention to that... Looks like it might have been about 2.05 a gallon when I last filled up (on the 26th).

I'll run by there today and check it out. Then make a cost vs POWAH analysis spreadsheet at various blends.

Damn ive spent too much time in engineering meetings this week

Uhh, you WILL not be able to get faster on a mix than you will be on full corn. That's something you can take to the bank.

Also, why bother spreadsheeting the cost/performance thing when 1. you don't really know how much power you're going to make on any given mix and 2. prices change damn near hourly?

Do we have any datalog's of a comparison between e-mix and full-e? Im curious to see how much of a difference there is. I keep seeing you guys post "Its insane". Now that sounds nice, but I like seeing numbers. Good old google pulls up nothing but E-85 mix info.

There's very little difference between knock proof on minimum mixes and 50/50.
It's when you go to full that shit gets crazy.
@johnnyboy05gt; had gone from an aggressive tune on 50/50 to a milder tune on full; he can certainly chime in with the seat of the pants difference between the two. This is the car Steel now owns, btw.

Going from the aggressive 50/50 tune to the mild full E85 tune was massive. I even had to tune it down it scared the shit out of me on a log. i also didn't notice a difference in fuel consumption.

AND it runs smoother, right?

Forgot I had this...Pump gas timing (14 degrees), stock boost (15), stock TMIC, stock turbo, gutted stock DP/MP, full corn on a Mustang dyno:


With another 6 degrees timing @ 6k it's quite a bit faster.

It ran much smoother. much less NVH

Take it for what its worth but VD has me at 300 +/- on full corn with only a JBR 3"....stock DP, TP CBE, everything. Only AP, Autotechs and the full intake.

Not bad for $700 (used except for AT's) of mods...

And it is actually silly how silent/smooth idle is...

Yeah, it's worth it alone for how smooth the engine runs on it.

Relax brotholemew, I was joking. Just having my brains ooze out from my nose from yet another eng. meeting. Need to utilize these smilies more :smirk:

Mileage about the same as on my 50/50 mix as well. Either way the lower mpg is at LEAST canceled out by the fact that I can save $10-15 on a full fill up, so meh. getting 19-20 mpg on full E. Never got over 25 or so on 93 anyway.

I definitely get less MPG, but I think that's because my foot is much happier...

^ This. My tires are not however.

You can squeeze better than stock mpg out of full corn.

Can... Operative word lol I hear it has something to do with restraint lmfao

That's only 90% of it. 10% of it is tune.

Meh, if I was concerned with mpg's I wouldn't have bought another speed in the 1st place.
But when we had crazy snow/sleet here for days on end I got an extra 40ish miles out of half the tank I used so if treated nicely I know 350 miles per tank is probably possible. But why run full corn if your going to treat the go faster pedal like a virgins bung? Ain't nobody got time for that, smash and dash.

So, something to throw at the brain trust in here....TC-W3.

It's basically a specification of ashless 2 stroke oil designed to be pre-mixed and burned while not fouling spark plugs/leaving deposits all while lubricating a 2 stroke engine. It's popular on a few boards and car communities (BITOG, LS1 crowd, FR-S/BR-Z crowd).

Been testing Oil - Page 54

Anyone adding 2 cycle oil with TCW3 to their gas?? - Scion FR-S Forum | Subaru BRZ Forum | Toyota 86 GT 86 Forum | AS1 Forum - FT86CLUB

The FR-S crowd specifically uses it *to quiet their HPFP* and it makes me wonder if this would help combat the sticky death from another angle, keeping the HPFP lubricated from the fuel side and cool.TC-W3 might help combat sticky death by reducing the amount of fuel boiling happening, and if/when it does happen it could buy some extra time before the pump starts sticking due to the lubrication properties.

It has been used in 4-cycle automotive engines for some time now, and at least in commonly used blends (oz per X amount of gallons) it is harmless at worst.



Motul POWER JET 2T 2-Stroke Oil TCW3 - Gallon (4L) [MOT-828041] EDO Performance

"Up to 3 times more film strength than petroleum based oils
Polar in molecular structure causing the oil to stick to metal? NO METAL TO METAL START UPS
Rated as: TCW-3?/TCWII/TCW/API TD/TSC-4
2-stroke synthetic blend
Injector or premix
Withstands very high running temps"

Give it a shot and let us know.

People...




How hard is it to just buy dexxos spec royal purple......and profit?

Interesting read... Got about six pages in.... F fwd to the last two pages and it seems that there is an issue with oil accumulation on hot parts after shut down. Guy with a Harley. No one confirmed, but the assumption was heat soak to the carb caused oil to separate from the gas and pool in our around the floats. I can see this preventing issues with fuel sending units, but not sure how it would react or behave in the pump. @twenty5psi; good find, I hope to join the test group soon. Will definitely keep reading that other thread. They have a six year running feed of their results. I just want to digest some more of it.
Post up if you decide to start running it!

Not everyone can get Dexos RP, so there is value in testing other oils.

Can't order it online? Eh, I suppose the more info the better.

Or its Fukn expensive...
Here in aus it's twice the price of other dexos oils...

Yeesh, and I thought it was expensive Stateside.

Used 2-smoke oil on the rotaries for better oiling of the...rotary instead of the not so reliable OMP. Worked great. This application however... I don't see how TCW3 will dissolve motor oil. Wasn't designed for that. I think it might even make the problem worse.

Not sure if you've already tried this place, but it seems to be just a little higher in USD than what I would pay at a retail store over here.

Royal Purple Pricelist

I've purchased from this guy before, just a home business importing the gear but he doesn't jack up the prices. I got my amsoil lubes for my 6 from him

I'm in Melbourne, for the Sydney guys there is gllubricants.com

Me thinks my RP and S1 combo will be put to the test tomorrow morning....

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1422917423

Whoa! http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...eada1ef9b4.jpg

Fapped over pics of Laguna Seca

And that, ladies and gentlemen, is why I moved to the desert southwest.

You need this in your life.

Git yer VT witchcraft outta here. Car did honk like a goose at me a couple times though..

Are most of you guys using just the internals? Anyone using a cpe or ie built hpfp?

I ran e85 (4gals + 93) for a full year....i followed this at one time, and came back today bc of an email notification lol....anyway, i used redline si1 twice. I had/have no issues with fuel delivery...running autotech internals...

Now, spraying walter white meth by the sheet. :banana:

Just thought i'd let yall know length of time, amount of E, and the experience.....:ugh2:

Issue is the same regardless.



http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1423345827

4,400 miles and counting....

@MSP6; have you ever disassembled your pump since starting this or have you just left it alone since you're not having problems.

Before I went broke and had to stock out my car... I hit about 2500 miles on corn with the fresh RP and a pump rebuild without a problem. So I was on my way to verify my past results.
Hope I'll be back with the first GEN 3 on corn. Should be back on my feet by then... Hopefully


Sent from my iPhone 6

My intention was to pull it every 1k or so but I'm thinking I bumble-lucky fucked my way into a perfect seal somehow and I'm not touching that fucker heh.

When it comes time for an oil change I might though since the point of this was to document info for MSF.

Curious to see how your pump looks after so many miles. Im hoping for the best.

Im looking forward to starting this in spring, but Im curious whats going to happen when it comes time to store the car for winter again.
@littleloogy; the pictures you posted on the previous page, did that have something to do with switching back to regular pump gas or you accidentally running the non-dexos RP?

Keep up the good work guys!