Probably full of brown boogers that aren't particularly sticky. More like a paste.

Calling it now....

Yes, I switched to gas and mistakenly put in regular royal purple. Then when rebuild the pump and ttried to go back to E I had a failure. (I just added SI1 to the spill valve to keep me going) after a fresh oil change and another pump rebuild I was fine. Shit works good when you do it right.

I should update the first post with a how to, maybe get it stickied with the two ways to run full E without problems. To to consolidate information into one spot



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A quick definitive how-to run 100% would be awesome.

Tapatalked

Dexos-spec E85 friendly oil, HPFP service/lube with SI-1 treatment seems to work nicely for the time being. I would be prepared to inspect the pump every oil change but with more testing it sounds like that could be extended out.

75 miles so far with no problems.. at least with the fuel pump hehe.

Now If only I had fif gear and a working diff and my turbonator hoses would stop popping off...

This! This thread, along with the other, has become soooo long I have no idea what works and what doesn't, what may be being used beyond the E85 friendly RP. Maybe the best thing would be to create a brand new thread with only the facts/positive results and link to it in the OPs from both of the others. Keep these two threads for "conversation and testing" while leaving the new thread to only having posts with proven results.

What say you?

I say yay, Jolly good show old chap. Now I just have to find time to do it. Cheerio!


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Come now govner, dust off the laurels and give it a good rogering!

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Better yet it should be a Wiki article.

I know somewhere in this thread is info on cold starts during winter... Please make sure that's included :D

But yes, big +1 for having it all in one place

Hey man, I was reading back up on this again since we will finally be seeing double digit temps here in MN. I was curious if you might have the time to do this? I just spent about 15 minutes search through this long ass thread for the "how-to" (post #308 ). If you could copy that post to the OP, maybe with whatever additional comments you may want to add, that would be great...
@Enki; Any tuning changes for full e85 that you may want to add into this would also be awesome.


http://s2.quickmeme.com/img/10/10087...cef6336652.jpg

Calibrate on 91 first, hydro test if you can, then set scalars. Dialing 11.75 AFR should be fine, then all the wastegate and all the timing.

Oh and keep WTQ under 350 1.01 SM3.

I am reading the entirety of this and rani to this @enki hahaha. The honey badger. Omg I'm dying laughing.

Also, I'm set for a tune at Cobb Socal in two weeks. I am gonna log when I make my run out there from Phoenix, as well as logs after my tune. I want the power but I am running a PU and am not sure how aggressive I should go on the e85. Right now I am thinking 30/70 e85 to 91. Is going 50/50 worth the trouble of rebuilding the pump every oil change? Or is that a full corn thing? I just read a LOT so I am kind of jumbled.

Edit: for the record I'm pretty much fully bolted, or at least I will be prior to tune. All Corksport parts except the AP and the forge bpv. FMIC, TBE, EBCS, and RMM are all getting put on sometime before I roll out there (on a safe ots tune)

Everything here is assumed at full corn. There is another thread, kings of corn, that deals with mixtures and ratios. This is balls to the wall, full tilt sticky and black death and hypothetical alleviations to said ailments.

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Roger that, I'll go read the one too. I am afraid of the black death man. This is the daily so I don't want to blow it up or have to rebuild my pump every couple hundred miles.

It's a lot of info to cover, and it can be intimidating, but @Enki; @phate; @littleloogy; have laid out so much info here that it's would be impossible to blow your block, and if you follow their suggestions, full e shouldn't be an issue.

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It would take a miracle of a fuckup to blow on full corn.

20 PSI, 13.8 AFR and pump gas timing went through my car. Didn't even know until I looked at the log.

my car has been on corn for an extended period of time now, it doesnt get driven much.. it is started weekly at the moment and warmed up to 185+ coolant temps.

Been going this way for 6+ months with 4 more to go.

100 percent e85, VR1 racing oil and SI-1 rebuilt pump.

Cant really put a milage on the longevity. It has seen many heat cycles and much abuse.

Coolant comes up to temp pretty fast; I'd get oil up to 180 for a few minutes before shutting it down so the oil doesn't dilute with moisture and fuel.

My car takes about 20 min to get up to temp. Thats the usual time it is running for. I have an oil cooler too so I let it run a good while.

So far At 2000 miles and ~8 or 9 tanks, not a hiccup. I even forgot about HPFP problems until I started reading this stupid forum again.

Full E?

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Yes, he's the local test car I'm watching. Seems the issues have gone away when he switched oils and we injected (did not clean) Redline into the spillvalve area of the pump.

So easy.

Freak result of the year lol Seem to be the longest lasting solution?

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Seems to be the easiest fix and long term solution for now. Gonna keep doing the injections as needed and see how long this can be drug out.

Should probably source new o-rings for the spill valve though.

I finally know my fuel level again, fixing it wasn't that bad honestly...

Enjoy it for the next 5 tank fillups...... ;)

Threw a nice amount of dielectric grease on the terminals, i've also went back to a 50/50 mix. Don't expect to be doing this again, whether it keeps working or not lol.

Found out this weekend I had a full bottle of Redline.

Welp.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1426467684

:headbang:

He's just getting jelly that my car is so fast for so sheep.

Then again.. his isn't falling apart everywhere else...

Yet.

Mmmm

Used AP V2 -$300
AT's -$300
Used 3" WP -$150

When your nearly silent 3 leaves a new 370z in the dust because full corn-priceless.



Just ticked 5k miles on full maize. Gonna change the oil and pull the internals likely next weekend. Many boogers expected, zero fucks given.

As of this post, full corn.

Log after 5kish miles of full E. FP still on the money. Actually scaled it back a wee bit to try and stay under the RV crack point.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1427223786

Mine is still running good too, and when I converted over I didn't touch my pump. I don't recall when I did the "fix" last, but it was many tanks (and months and miles) ago.

The dielectric grease on the sending unit (fuel level) would that be less likely to vibrate or dilute in the fuel if it were shrink wrapped after coating? Or is that stuff so viscous that it isn't going anywhere?

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I know corn eats the shit out of silicone. Pretty sure grease is nothing in comparison.

Sometime in the next week I plan to try switching to full corn. I've been running a 50/50 mix for about a year with no issues. Rotella T6 that whole time.

I have a couple jugs of the Dexos certified RP 5W-30. My plan is to change my oil, remove the spill valve and fill the cavity with SI-1. Then at my next fillup, straight E85. Wish me luck!

Do us a favor if you have the means/time etc. Pull the whole pump and start fresh with a cleaned pump, lubed with the S-1. If you just dump it into the SV at the very beginning and have any sort of failure we won't know for sure if its just because of the full E or if the pump had gum or gunk prior etc etc.

Good luck either way!

That's what I had originally intended to do, but recent developments in the thread have me curious if this minimal approach will work for me.

I cleaned/rebuilt my pump with SI-1 several months ago, and it's not that big of a deal to do. If I have issues that will be my next step. If I still have issues, I'll try again after my next oil change.

Try to drain out as much of the fuel/oil mix from the lower area as you can if possible. Getting as much redline in there as possible will be key to longevity.

Will do. If I have success, I still intend to tear down my pump and spill valve at the following oil change to see how things look. Regardless of how things go I'll document for this thread.

140 miles, half a tank later and no issues. Many wot pulls too. This weekend will be interesting as I'll be doing some naughty science stuff to the car; hopefully it will resolve a low RPM high load stutter I have in 1-2.

214 miles, 11 gallons later. Still no issues. Never touched the pump.

@Enki; @littleloogy;
So, after 5k plus miles on full E, I pulled the pump today to inspect, check for boogers etc. Being a dumbass, I finished with the internals before realizing I hadn't taken pics. Irrelevant however because they were more or less like the SV, just much, much less so. So, pics..

Pic 1-4 show the SV goodies before "cleaning". They were initially covered in a light goo/sludge. I assumed boogers, but by the time I walked the 70 feet to my workbench, the E all evaporated and left this reddish brown dust.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1427575682
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1427575682
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1427575682
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1427575682



Pic 5 shows what happened when I simply picked up the SV bits....it all wiped of onto my glove....no solvent, no scrubbing, nada.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1427575788



Pic 6 and 7 show shiny goodness achieved with less than 15 seconds apiece of dry wiping. Again, no solvent, S-1, scrubbing etc.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1427575882
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1427575882



Pic 8, resoaking/treating with S-1 Unicorn goodness of Faptitude.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1427575937



Pic 9 show SV housing beforehand.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1427575999


Pic 10 shows SV housing after maybe a minute of twisting a dry wipe around in there.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1427575999





Like I said, internal had the same type of dust, just MUCH less. It was barely noticeable on the shaft, spring etc.

I'm declaring victory! S-1 and wrench shall stay under the panel in the hatch just in case, but I'm not touching the pump again until it is necessary.

TL;DR 5k miles of full E plus Redline S-1 equals only minute deposits of dust that wipe off with glove alone. Gloved hand plus Redline lubez =phenom fapz

Good shit. Even if you had to clean the pump every 5k I'd still consider that a victory, but with zero sticky anywhere it's pretty apparent that isn't the case.

/Thread...?

@MSP6; you running purple power yeah? Going this route, has anyone run block flush through before oil change or, just let gravity do it's job?

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What is the consensus on which oil to use for 100% e85? I am considering going full e85 and just want to make sure I'm using the right stuff.

NVM: Looks to be Royal Purple 5w-30 with the Dexos-1 cert.

This is still a thing? What the fuck did I get you guys into?

I received a message recently from another member, and after some serious thought I have decided not to sell my car, at least not yet. I decided to pick up where I left off and I'll be installing IE internals before getting back on the E Wagon.



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I am that faggot that gave Loogie bad ideas. Lol.

Also I don't think it's a thing anymore. Pretty sure you've solved it bud.

Now we just need a quick concise write-up on how and where to apply the Redline, what oil is preferred, and any other tips/tricks for the folks that haven't monitored this thread. Nice work gentlemen. Sidenote, for you guys on full E on stock k04, what is your IDC looking like? On 50/50 with k04 I was in the 90s...I can only assume yall are approaching 110 or so.

Kind of a thing. As far as I know I simply had the most miles (aside from you perhaps?) and wanted to document everything as best I could.

Uh.....what?

RP 5x 30 Dexxos spec

Yep, nothing was sticky at all. It was all that dust like shit.

Yep @littleloogy; gets the credit for this. I'm just a test donkey to submit more data points for the idea.

New Thread upcoming.

Also, at 11.8 AFR I was somewhere around 105ish. This is with 3" WP intake only, no dp, tp etc.

At 12.0 AFR now I hit mid-high 90's.

Note* only went to 12.0 AFR because I havd/have no experience with IDC's and didn't like seeing it top 100 even though I logged/felt/noticed no adverse effects from it.

Giggity.

1.85.........you bastard.

Oh... It must be nice

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Oh, is that cheap? :) It's also a quarter mile from my home :)

So, I changed my oil from T6 to the purple power today and cleaned my spill valve with SI-1. It was barely sticky after many thousands of miles at 50/50. I also filled the SV cavity with SI-1, waited for it to percolate down into the HPFP, and then refilled it. I was on fumes when I filled up with E85 (see the gallons in the pic above), and I put the remainder of the bottle of SI-1 in my gas tank.

I only drove a few miles after filling up. Trims looked good and fuel pressure was fine. We'll see what happens this week. I put 50-60 miles per day on my car. I will be taking it easy for at least the first few days.

P.S., anybody know how to monitor IDC with the Torque app?

A) sell phone on craigslist.
B) purchase AP from fit sale section on forums
C) stencil torque on AP

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I have an AP, thanks. How else would I be running straight E85? :)

Sorry. Some of the torque users, are versatune guys lol. Not that there's anything wrong with that solution, it just isn't an ap.

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I need an AP, I sold mine. [emoji37]


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Just paid $2.45 to fill up yesterday afternoon.

FP was solid at startup and through my drive to work today. I'll report back at the end of the week when I have a couple hundred miles in.

This is an awesome update to the thread. Thanks for the update (good news) @MSP6; and its good to see @littleloogy; sticking around for a little while longer. Wont be long and I will be joining the bandwagon. Waiting on some good rain fall to clean all the salt off the roads before I pull the car out of storage.

That sounds like its on par with a 50/50 MS6. I'm not sure what sounds about right for E85 on 6's because Rich's car is the only one I've seen in person, and it was making ridiculous power.
@Enki; what kind of differences can you do tune wise on 100% that you can't do on 50/50? I keep seeing you and others say its a big difference, but what changes actually result in more power?

I'm pretty sure people have failed on 25% mixes. I've thought about dielectric grease but was concerned about what could happen with it being mixed with the fuel system. I failed 2x on 50% and just stopped fixing it. Said fuck it, and have been running around without a fuel level sender for a year now.

You cut your body over the pump, right? Maybe pull it and see what the connectors look like on the sender. See if the grease is still there, because it may have cleaned it, and is on its way out again after some time.

You flow more air. Don't even need to change timing or boost; if memory serves, I was making the same power on full corn with only a NATOR DP and mid pipe and CAI as I was on 50/50 with full proper bolt ons. If memory serves, on 50/50 I was hitting 15.5 PSI @ 6k RPM 100% WGDC stock turbo on 50/50 but only around 13 PSI in the same conditions/tune on full corn.

Edit:
Not sure if you've been following my thread, but I'm hitting 4.05 MAF volts on full corn right now with no intercooler and M60 spraying @ 17 psi, whereas on E29 I was hitting 4.2 volts @ 21 PSI with an intercooler and the same amount of M60 spraying. E85 is fucking nasty on these cars.

Ugh... I hope this shit works then, cuz you got me about to try 100%.

You know you run out of fuel really quickly right?

Also I'm probably going to make a wiki post sometime soon on some sciencey shit pertaining to gas, alcohols and water.

You talking MPG or IDCs? lol

IDC

Both :vroam:

Mostly both, but right now I'm getting about 20 MPG, including beating on it.

ZFG for MPG. I get 16-17 during the winter on E85 due to a shitty short commute. But yeah, I'm 105 IDC IIRC. lol But you got me thinking/hoping with running a higher target AFR. So I don't know if there is much for me to gain, number wise. :(

20psi @ 5500 RPM's My IDC were at 130+ car would buck like a son of a bitch.
I went through a tank in a little over 100 miles.


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What are you targeting at WOT? Any WMI?

If you are talking to me I was targeting 12.0 and no WMI. This time around I will definitely be it, unless I find someone to build me some custom injectors. $$


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Just started third tank, no issues. Made 21.66 MPG (260 miles, 12 gallons).

I have a speed 3 now, but when I had my 6 I could just crack 300 from time to time on VD, but was consistently in the 290-295 range with full intake and catless dp/tp. This was at 22psi on the K04

With the speed 3 now on full E I'm consistently in the 310 range full intake only, at 20psi.

Needless to say, I don't have an apples to apples of 3 vs 6.

From what I've seen with my VD tracking from 50/50 to full probably nabbed me <10 whp But for the ease of fill up and more consistent trims and AFR's I'll take it. Plus mpg's stayed more or less the same with less expensive fillups.

I am having trouble deciding on when internals to get. It's a wash between autotech and Integrated engineering. Part of me wants to get IE's because not many are running them(I like to be different) but the other half tells me I should run what most are running to keep testing parameters the same... Hum. Thoughts?


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Hmmm dat is a trade off... Personally, I'm all about nabbing the extra HP if I can. lol

Got walked by a heavily modded WRX, when I happened to be on my mild 93 tune for the first time in 2 years. I was having like Nam flashbacks of the slaughter while trying to sleep for the following 2 weeks. lol First lost to something that wasn't a BT speed or a GTR. :( Now that I'm back on the juice, I'm looking for dat ass...

What's the diff on the piston? You know what you're going to get with the AT, so why risk it lol
Differenthttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...16f0ec4a81.jpg

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The other kit looks like it has better sealing, and would thus reduce the instance of both deaths.

http://www.performancebyie.com/ie-hi...0t-fsi-engines

I guess I'll just get it and see what happened. Reminds me a of the CPE pump internals.



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So, apparently this company sells quite a few of these internals to a "no name company who sells them to the Mazdaspeed platform. Perhaps my suspicions were not far off


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are you implying See Pee E

Looks very similar so it's possible. I believe CP-E pump has 9.5mm piston while all the other internals are 9.8mm.

With this solution it looks like an aux fuel system starts to really be in the cards if it's a big turbo car on 100%.

Good work everyone!

So... Why is there complete pump so much cheaper than some no name company's pump?

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They have to feed their monkey @Sandman978;
IE said that they used to use autotechs in their upgraded pumps. Talking with them also revealed that autotech do leak quite a bit of fuel passed the piston. Which is why they stopped using them and designed their own.


I am excited about trying these out. Maybe these internals won't be as loud as the autotechs were.


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Autotech internals do have relatively loose tolerances, but that helps with lubrication. Also, pressure doesn't seem to be an issue with them.

Where did you hear about them being supplied to a mazdaspeed platform?
When I first found them I was looking at what options vw had.

I thought it was a given that CPE used APR?

From IE's mouth. I called and chatted for a few minutes before placing my order. I asked them who they sold to, they could not say.


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He who must not be named... Be raping us lol

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That doesn't happen from me switching to a pump gas tune, but the 1 or 2 days a month I go out in the volvo with the little ones it's like there's 4in straight piped bug-eye wrx's and stanced GTI's fucking everywhere. Second I'm back in the speed it's nothing but minivans and accord hybrids. They get all confused when you sit right next to them and fire off a three honk....

As far as the extra power, its definitely there, just not in gobs. But then, how often can you gain even the slightest bit of power by SAVING money....

Well, my 93 map has my 3rd gear power restricted for traction issues back when I had factory dunlops. So it makes like 270hp in 3rd, and then 300 in 4th. Where as my e85 map makes 320-330 in both gears. lol So its a pretty big difference for me.

Not to mention a big TQ difference as well.

Oh I'm sure that at some time it will fail again, and I'm fine with that. Next time I have the car down for a weekend I'll pull it again. I put it all back together, covered the holes I made, and put the original cover back on.

I'm currently empty and need to go fill up, but I'm torn. Do I go back to 93 and enjoy 300+ miles per tank, stay 50/50, or just go back to full e.... Decisions, decisions...

Don't be gay... Put E in dat shit.

E-85 Cure With Fuel Additives
 

This page was not meant for 50/50 shit. Full E or GTFO!


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