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 Old 03-06-2015, 11:47 PM   #721
 
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Originally Posted by Enki View Post
Coolant comes up to temp pretty fast; I'd get oil up to 180 for a few minutes before shutting it down so the oil doesn't dilute with moisture and fuel.

My car takes about 20 min to get up to temp. Thats the usual time it is running for. I have an oil cooler too so I let it run a good while.
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 Old 03-12-2015, 10:22 PM   #722
 
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So far At 2000 miles and ~8 or 9 tanks, not a hiccup. I even forgot about HPFP problems until I started reading this stupid forum again.
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 Old 03-12-2015, 11:00 PM   #723
 
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Full E?

Fapped over pics of Laguna Seca
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 Old 03-12-2015, 11:03 PM   #724

 
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Yes, he's the local test car I'm watching. Seems the issues have gone away when he switched oils and we injected (did not clean) Redline into the spillvalve area of the pump.

So easy.
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 Old 03-12-2015, 11:25 PM   #725
 
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Freak result of the year lol Seem to be the longest lasting solution?

Fapped over pics of Laguna Seca
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 Old 03-12-2015, 11:43 PM   #726

 
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Seems to be the easiest fix and long term solution for now. Gonna keep doing the injections as needed and see how long this can be drug out.

Should probably source new o-rings for the spill valve though.
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 Old 03-15-2015, 02:24 PM   #727
 
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I finally know my fuel level again, fixing it wasn't that bad honestly...
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 Old 03-15-2015, 03:03 PM   #728
 
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Enjoy it for the next 5 tank fillups......
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Enki - "High mixes of corn = all the wastegate all the time for great justice."
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 Old 03-15-2015, 03:43 PM   #729
 
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Originally Posted by MSP6 View Post
Enjoy it for the next 5 tank fillups......
Threw a nice amount of dielectric grease on the terminals, i've also went back to a 50/50 mix. Don't expect to be doing this again, whether it keeps working or not lol.
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 Old 03-15-2015, 07:06 PM   #730

 
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Found out this weekend I had a full bottle of Redline.

Welp.

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 Old 03-16-2015, 05:23 AM   #731
 
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 Old 03-20-2015, 11:12 AM   #732
 
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He's just getting jelly that my car is so fast for so sheep.

Then again.. his isn't falling apart everywhere else...
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 Old 03-20-2015, 11:29 AM   #733

 
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Yet.
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 Old 03-21-2015, 06:33 AM   #734
 
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Originally Posted by SteelJM1 View Post
He's just getting jelly that my car is so fast for so sheep.

Then again.. his isn't falling apart everywhere else...
Mmmm

Used AP V2 -$300
AT's -$300
Used 3" WP -$150

When your nearly silent 3 leaves a new 370z in the dust because full corn-priceless.



Just ticked 5k miles on full maize. Gonna change the oil and pull the internals likely next weekend. Many boogers expected, zero fucks given.
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 Old 03-21-2015, 06:34 PM   #735

 
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As of this post, full corn.
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 Old 03-24-2015, 01:03 PM   #736
 
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Log after 5kish miles of full E. FP still on the money. Actually scaled it back a wee bit to try and stay under the RV crack point.

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 Old 03-24-2015, 01:08 PM   #737
 
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 Old 03-24-2015, 02:57 PM   #738

 
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Mine is still running good too, and when I converted over I didn't touch my pump. I don't recall when I did the "fix" last, but it was many tanks (and months and miles) ago.
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 Old 03-24-2015, 03:33 PM   #739
 
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The dielectric grease on the sending unit (fuel level) would that be less likely to vibrate or dilute in the fuel if it were shrink wrapped after coating? Or is that stuff so viscous that it isn't going anywhere?

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 Old 03-25-2015, 05:33 AM   #740
 
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I know corn eats the shit out of silicone. Pretty sure grease is nothing in comparison.
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 Old 03-25-2015, 06:21 AM   #741
 
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Sometime in the next week I plan to try switching to full corn. I've been running a 50/50 mix for about a year with no issues. Rotella T6 that whole time.

I have a couple jugs of the Dexos certified RP 5W-30. My plan is to change my oil, remove the spill valve and fill the cavity with SI-1. Then at my next fillup, straight E85. Wish me luck!
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 Old 03-25-2015, 06:31 AM   #742
 
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Do us a favor if you have the means/time etc. Pull the whole pump and start fresh with a cleaned pump, lubed with the S-1. If you just dump it into the SV at the very beginning and have any sort of failure we won't know for sure if its just because of the full E or if the pump had gum or gunk prior etc etc.

Good luck either way!
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 Old 03-25-2015, 06:48 AM   #743
 
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Originally Posted by MSP6 View Post
Do us a favor if you have the means/time etc. Pull the whole pump and start fresh with a cleaned pump, lubed with the S-1. If you just dump it into the SV at the very beginning and have any sort of failure we won't know for sure if its just because of the full E or if the pump had gum or gunk prior etc etc.

Good luck either way!
That's what I had originally intended to do, but recent developments in the thread have me curious if this minimal approach will work for me.

I cleaned/rebuilt my pump with SI-1 several months ago, and it's not that big of a deal to do. If I have issues that will be my next step. If I still have issues, I'll try again after my next oil change.
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 Old 03-25-2015, 10:43 AM   #744

 
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Try to drain out as much of the fuel/oil mix from the lower area as you can if possible. Getting as much redline in there as possible will be key to longevity.
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 Old 03-25-2015, 03:27 PM   #745
 
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Originally Posted by Enki View Post
Try to drain out as much of the fuel/oil mix from the lower area as you can if possible. Getting as much redline in there as possible will be key to longevity.
Will do. If I have success, I still intend to tear down my pump and spill valve at the following oil change to see how things look. Regardless of how things go I'll document for this thread.
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 Old 03-26-2015, 09:37 PM   #746

 
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140 miles, half a tank later and no issues. Many wot pulls too. This weekend will be interesting as I'll be doing some naughty science stuff to the car; hopefully it will resolve a low RPM high load stutter I have in 1-2.
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 Old 03-27-2015, 10:59 PM   #747

 
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214 miles, 11 gallons later. Still no issues. Never touched the pump.
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 Old 03-28-2015, 02:57 PM   #748
 
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@Enki; @littleloogy;
So, after 5k plus miles on full E, I pulled the pump today to inspect, check for boogers etc. Being a dumbass, I finished with the internals before realizing I hadn't taken pics. Irrelevant however because they were more or less like the SV, just much, much less so. So, pics..

Pic 1-4 show the SV goodies before "cleaning". They were initially covered in a light goo/sludge. I assumed boogers, but by the time I walked the 70 feet to my workbench, the E all evaporated and left this reddish brown dust.








Pic 5 shows what happened when I simply picked up the SV bits....it all wiped of onto my glove....no solvent, no scrubbing, nada.




Pic 6 and 7 show shiny goodness achieved with less than 15 seconds apiece of dry wiping. Again, no solvent, S-1, scrubbing etc.





Pic 8, resoaking/treating with S-1 Unicorn goodness of Faptitude.




Pic 9 show SV housing beforehand.



Pic 10 shows SV housing after maybe a minute of twisting a dry wipe around in there.






Like I said, internal had the same type of dust, just MUCH less. It was barely noticeable on the shaft, spring etc.

I'm declaring victory! S-1 and wrench shall stay under the panel in the hatch just in case, but I'm not touching the pump again until it is necessary.

TL;DR 5k miles of full E plus Redline S-1 equals only minute deposits of dust that wipe off with glove alone. Gloved hand plus Redline lubez =phenom fapz
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 Old 03-28-2015, 03:36 PM   #749

 
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Good shit. Even if you had to clean the pump every 5k I'd still consider that a victory, but with zero sticky anywhere it's pretty apparent that isn't the case.

/Thread...?
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 Old 03-28-2015, 05:29 PM   #750
 
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@MSP6; you running purple power yeah? Going this route, has anyone run block flush through before oil change or, just let gravity do it's job?

Fapped over pics of Laguna Seca
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 Old 03-28-2015, 07:35 PM   #751
 
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What is the consensus on which oil to use for 100% e85? I am considering going full e85 and just want to make sure I'm using the right stuff.

NVM: Looks to be Royal Purple 5w-30 with the Dexos-1 cert.
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 Old 03-28-2015, 07:50 PM   #752
 
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This is still a thing? What the fuck did I get you guys into?

I received a message recently from another member, and after some serious thought I have decided not to sell my car, at least not yet. I decided to pick up where I left off and I'll be installing IE internals before getting back on the E Wagon.



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 Old 03-28-2015, 07:53 PM   #753

 
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I am that faggot that gave Loogie bad ideas. Lol.

Also I don't think it's a thing anymore. Pretty sure you've solved it bud.
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 Old 03-28-2015, 08:06 PM   #754
 
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Now we just need a quick concise write-up on how and where to apply the Redline, what oil is preferred, and any other tips/tricks for the folks that haven't monitored this thread. Nice work gentlemen. Sidenote, for you guys on full E on stock k04, what is your IDC looking like? On 50/50 with k04 I was in the 90s...I can only assume yall are approaching 110 or so.
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 Old 03-29-2015, 05:02 AM   #755
 
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Originally Posted by littleloogy View Post
This is still a thing? What the fuck did I get you guys into?

Kind of a thing. As far as I know I simply had the most miles (aside from you perhaps?) and wanted to document everything as best I could.

Originally Posted by Sandman978 View Post
@MSP6; you running purple power yeah? Going this route, has anyone run block flush through before oil change or, just let gravity do it's job?
Uh.....what?

RP 5x 30 Dexxos spec

Originally Posted by Enki View Post
Good shit. Even if you had to clean the pump every 5k I'd still consider that a victory, but with zero sticky anywhere it's pretty apparent that isn't the case.

/Thread...?
Yep, nothing was sticky at all. It was all that dust like shit.

Originally Posted by Enki View Post
I am that faggot that gave Loogie bad ideas. Lol.

Also I don't think it's a thing anymore. Pretty sure you've solved it bud.
Yep @littleloogy; gets the credit for this. I'm just a test donkey to submit more data points for the idea.

Originally Posted by mrmonk7663 View Post
Now we just need a quick concise write-up on how and where to apply the Redline, what oil is preferred, and any other tips/tricks for the folks that haven't monitored this thread. Nice work gentlemen. Sidenote, for you guys on full E on stock k04, what is your IDC looking like? On 50/50 with k04 I was in the 90s...I can only assume yall are approaching 110 or so.
New Thread upcoming.

Also, at 11.8 AFR I was somewhere around 105ish. This is with 3" WP intake only, no dp, tp etc.

At 12.0 AFR now I hit mid-high 90's.

Note* only went to 12.0 AFR because I havd/have no experience with IDC's and didn't like seeing it top 100 even though I logged/felt/noticed no adverse effects from it.
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 Old 03-29-2015, 02:58 PM   #756
 
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Giggity.
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 Old 03-29-2015, 03:25 PM   #757
 
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1.85.........you bastard.
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 Old 03-29-2015, 05:25 PM   #758
 
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Oh... It must be nice

Fapped over pics of Laguna Seca
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 Old 03-29-2015, 05:43 PM   #759
 
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Originally Posted by MSP6 View Post
1.85.........you bastard.
Originally Posted by Sandman978 View Post
Oh... It must be nice

Fapped over pics of Laguna Seca
Oh, is that cheap? It's also a quarter mile from my home

So, I changed my oil from T6 to the purple power today and cleaned my spill valve with SI-1. It was barely sticky after many thousands of miles at 50/50. I also filled the SV cavity with SI-1, waited for it to percolate down into the HPFP, and then refilled it. I was on fumes when I filled up with E85 (see the gallons in the pic above), and I put the remainder of the bottle of SI-1 in my gas tank.

I only drove a few miles after filling up. Trims looked good and fuel pressure was fine. We'll see what happens this week. I put 50-60 miles per day on my car. I will be taking it easy for at least the first few days.

P.S., anybody know how to monitor IDC with the Torque app?
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 Old 03-29-2015, 05:47 PM   #760
 
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A) sell phone on craigslist.
B) purchase AP from fit sale section on forums
C) stencil torque on AP

Fapped over pics of Laguna Seca
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