E-85 Cure With Fuel Additives

[WetzMS3]

Originally Posted by littleloogy I do need to change my oil soon. I got a lot of requests to test Rotella with this additive. It seems to be the most popular choice of oils. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

First, awesome results so far.

Do you think it would be more beneficial to get a larger sample size with oils before switching? I ask because I know there was quite a bit of difference in oil's tested in the King's of Corn thread.

For what it's worth, I run T6, so I am without a doubt interested in seeing it tested. I also have been using this additive with each fill up of my 50/50 mix. I started that after last oil change about 1500 miles ago, and cleaned my pump before at the time, it didn't need it. I plan on getting UOA after another 1500 mi, and inspecting the pump then as well.

I would, maybe open to running full e with t6 in tandem with your testing.

TL/DR--MOAR DATA=BETTER, MAYBE?

[Enki]

So test it.

[mazdafreak]

So you still running 1:1 or w.e or u running less additive now?

[littleloogy]

Same additive content as before. I am hesitant to lean it out as this is my daily driver. This weekend I finally will have a few days to myself, and can risk some car trouble. Therefore I will run a 1oz to 2 gallon ratio and see how she does.

[PapaSmurf]

My engine is about a month or so out from being in my car, after break in I am really debating running full E with this additive along with redline 20w50. Hopefully there is more data by then but if not I am still up for it.


Sent from your girlfriends tapabedroom

[littleloogy]

Originally Posted by PapaSmurf My engine is about a month or so out from being in my car, after break in I am really debating running full E with this additive along with redline 20w50. Hopefully there is more data by then but if not I am still up for it. Sent from your girlfriends tapabedroom

I hope I can deliver. What are you looking for as far as data goes? Tonight is my HPFP teardown and write up night. Maybe I can address some of your questions at that time.

[PapaSmurf]

Originally Posted by littleloogy I hope I can deliver. What are you looking for as far as data goes? Tonight is my HPFP teardown and write up night. Maybe I can address some of your questions at that time.

I guess by "data" I meant more people running full e successfully like you are. I will for sure be running 20w50 just because the thicker oil will help keep oil temps down. The reason I picked redline is because you have been successful with redline oil already. Hopefully different oil viscosity's dont play a roll in if "black death" occurs or not.

[littleloogy]

I understand. Let's see how the pump looks tonight. I called Redline today, the "tech" was out for the day. I will be calling again on Monday to discuss the testing of the product and possible side effects from prolonged use. I do not want to take a chance is being responsible for killing motors.

Edit:

Originally Posted by PapaSmurf I will for sure be running 20w50 just because the thicker oil will help keep oil temps down.

Redline by default runs cooler and thicker as it is. When my Redline oil (10w30) warms up it actually becomes close to a 10w40. So a 20w50 may actually be a 20w60...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

[Mfinlay04]

I'm praying for this to work out. If it does when my vvt is fixed I'll be running 100% E85. I've been running chevron delco for a few months. I was planning on getting a uoa anyways. So we can compare before and after to see if it affect the oil any.

[littleloogy]

Removal of the pump was delayed a day due to mother nature being a bitch.

I was really disappointed when I removed my internals this morning. I guess in the back of my head I knew they would look like this, but I was hoping for better results.

These internals have not been touched for 3000 miles on Full E. The internals were in good shape considering. Not to much black death, but were coated in sticky death.





When I tried to pull the internals apart they were damn near seized. I was able to pull them apart with my hands, but it was really tough. I GOPROed the removal if anyone wants to see it what it was like.

When I think back I remember my cold startups have not always been crisp. The engine would briefly (less then a second) stumble until the pump worked itself loose then would idle and run flawlessly. This is caused by the fuel drying out between the piston and the sleeve as the pump sits over night. When the motor turns over it forces fresh fuel onto the sleeve and piston freeing up the internals for normal operation.



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

[Enki]

I don't care what anyone says man, 3000 miles on full E is a fucking victory in my book.

[JgamB]

I know we don't have VW'esque cam follower deterioration, but I have to wonder what this is doing to the follower or cam lobe with the additional resistance. If it's just on startup, it's probably not a big deal.

Is everyone running this test using ATs? Anyone using the CS internals and what might be a different coating on the piston?

[littleloogy]

I pulled my Cam Follower and it still looked new. Even after running like this for 30 miles... Cam follower slapping HPFP:

YouTube Short

YouTube Short

Edit: This was from my first experience with black death. Fun times...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

[Jap11g]

@TiGraySpeed6; interesting read if you haven't already seen it, man. Let me know what you think.

Also, does anyone in here think there is an advantage to running a round of redline through my car just to clean things up a bit? I work at O'Reillys so the stuff is basically free for me. I'd like to clean up if I can, even if I'm only on 4 gallons of E right now.

Tapa Tapa Tapa

[pzr2874]

Originally Posted by Jap11g @TiGraySpeed6; interesting read if you haven't already seen it, man. Let me know what you think. Also, does anyone in here think there is an advantage to running a round of redline through my car just to clean things up a bit? I work at O'Reillys so the stuff is basically free for me. I'd like to clean up if I can, even if I'm only on 4 gallons of E right now. Tapa Tapa Tapa

This was asked earlier in the thread. "try it" and let us know.

[Jap11g]

Oh shit ya I did ask that. I couldn't remember if I did, or just thought about it and never got around to it.

Alright. Well, I don't see how it would do any damage do I'll try it out and see if it helps.

I'm only getting like 10mpg right now and can't figure out why... So I'm hoping something like this redline stuff will clean everything up a bit and help.

Tapa Tapa Tapa

[jtms6]

does the pump prime itself with the ignition on? the only way to break the gunk loose is actually turning it over right? ive been on fulle E for quite a while now, my situation is my car sits for 4 days and i drive it on the weekend, cold starts are a bit stumbly but once it warms up its all good

[littleloogy]

The pump only receives the pressure the ITFP sends which is 60 PSI in my case. This is the only prime it sees.

I am a 12' with tech package so this may not apply to everyone: After my speed sits for a few days or on really cold startups I floor my gas pedal and clutch so my engine turns over but does not start. I monitor my fuel pressure closely, when it climbs past 1000 PSI I release my gas pedal and my engine will start without a stumble.

I don't usually do this because the battery in my car is about shot. And I don't want to kill my starter with prolonged low voltage cranking.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

[Mfinlay04]

Originally Posted by jtms6 does the pump prime itself with the ignition on? the only way to break the gunk loose is actually turning it over right? ive been on fulle E for quite a while now, my situation is my car sits for 4 days and i drive it on the weekend, cold starts are a bit stumbly but once it warms up its all good

What oil have you been running? I didn't see a post from you in the king of corn thread

[littleloogy]

I went for a drive tonight. Raced a few cars got on it like usual, but something just was not feeling right. I start to take it easy as I just did not feel comfortable. My radio was on so I turned it off, then I hear that all to familiar sound... "Squeek squeek squeek." The damn relief valve is going off like there ain't no tomorrow. I look closer at my Fuel pressure, sure shit fuel pressure spike into the high 1800's. I get home and find this sticky shit...

A non sticky button valve! Yey. But unfortunately I also found this...






I decided to go back to my Spill valve upper spring Mod. This worked great at allowing the spill valve to work with the sticky death. I took out the spring mod when I started this additive.

I wanted to see if the upper spring mod was mandatory or not. Clearly you will need this mod if you are to run a maintenance free full E85 for over 1500 miles.

I reinstalled the modified spill valve without cleaning anything. Here is the hpfp mod thread in case you want more info. E85 Remedy with HPFP Hardware modifications

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

[mazdafreak]

Looks like ill need to mod my spill valve.

[Jap11g]

@CouldaHadaDodge;

Tapa Tapa Tapa

[Enki]

I've done some orifice measuring on the spill valve and found inconsistencies in available flow area; while I'm not sure that modifying the pump will actually accomplish anything, it will be interesting to try. I also still need to take a look at a fuel pump body as well, but it might get destroyed if modified (which I want to avoid).

I'll post a thread on this later after I've had a chance to give a pump body a once-over.

[Nitr0EngiE]

i just bought two bottles from amazon for 11.95 free shipping each, i found same price on ebay. I dont run any E85 but all cars get 10% ethanol Via normal gas so I plan on running a bottle trough my ms3 and cx7 just to clean shit up.

I am thinking i should maybe split the bottle in half per tank instead of a bottle per tank.

i know this does not help you guys run E85 but the issues could occur with normal gas over long time.

[littleloogy]

I tried running lean on the additive with negative results. I was having a bad time driving to work. Pressure got really inconsistent. I ended up pouring some additive directly into my spill valve area to stop my internals from sticking... Shit worked almost instantly.

Now I have another idea... Direct injection for the additive, directly into the pump. It will be Controlled by a button in the cab, when internals start to stick... Hit the goo button. Similar to an IV, But pressurized.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

[SpeedEngineer]

Maybe not something where you press a button but something that flows a small amount continuously or something similar to a meth kit. That way it takes the guess work out so to speak ..hmmn

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

[littleloogy]

I like buttons though...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

[SpeedEngineer]

You can press my buttons anytime

I was just throwing out an idea for the preventative side
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

[Enki]

Originally Posted by Nitr0EngiE i know this does not help you guys run E85

It does, actually. 3k miles is further than anyone really ever gets without some kind of issue.

Originally Posted by Nitr0EngiE the issues could occur with normal gas over long time

It does, actually. Worst pump I ever saw had seized stock internals from black death in a 100k mile CX7. Pretty sure the engine went as a result.

[Jap11g]

I like this brainstorming!

Tapa Tapa Tapa

[Easter Bunny]

Originally Posted by Enki It does, actually. 3k miles is further than anyone really ever gets without some kind of issue. It does, actually. Worst pump I ever saw had seized stock internals from black death in a 100k mile CX7. Pretty sure the engine went as a result.

So your saying I should clean my 45000 mile pump that has never been touched.

[Roddiy]

Originally Posted by littleloogy I tried running lean on the additive with negative results. I was having a bad time driving to work. Pressure got really inconsistent. I ended up pouring some additive directly into my spill valve area to stop my internals from sticking... Shit worked almost instantly. Now I have another idea... Direct injection for the additive, directly into the pump. It will be Controlled by a button in the cab, when internals start to stick... Hit the goo button. Similar to an IV, But pressurized. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

Shit man, that's some frankenstein shit.



I like it.





and thanks for all the work you're putting in man, this is turning out to be a pretty big breakthrough for the power-hungry fellas who just need that 100% E85.



Pretty sure something like this would make the difference between 794whp and 800+whp... hehehe

[Mazda Love]

Originally Posted by Easter Bunny So your saying I should clean my 45000 mile pump that has never been touched.

It definitely wont hurt.... win win if you ask me. and if anyone wants they can shoot me real quick how to add 30% to my speed 6 and ill fine tune myself and help with the oil testing. i am currently running 5w30 royal purple. i have my rx-8 up and running now so i can park my 6 when it needs a fuel cleaning. i have a cpe hpfp also.

[Enki]

Best place to "inject" would be off the blue or yellow clip line; a hole in the pump anywhere else is asking for trouble. You should be able to get an inline tap style setup like what people use for 5th port.

[littleloogy]

Originally Posted by Enki Best place to "inject" would be off the blue or yellow clip line; a hole in the pump anywhere else is asking for trouble. You should be able to get an inline tap style setup like what people use for 5th port.

That is an excellent idea. That will give the additive time to mix into the fuel. I will most likely choose this route. However, I do have a pump off of a 2.0t motor. I might swap out the baffle covers and run the additive through there as the cover lines up perfectly.



If this works well I will work on a Plug and play style kit, that will more likely tap into the relief valve. But I guess it does not matter much.



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

[Enki]

This might actually be a good option for creating a return style fuel system for use with 5th/manyport injection, and provide additional cooling to the HPFP...

[Jap11g]

History is in the making...

Tapa Tapa Tapa

[kolosok17]

Originally Posted by Enki It does, actually. Worst pump I ever saw had seized stock internals from black death in a 100k mile CX7. Pretty sure the engine went as a result.

Yup, I had a lot of sticky in my pump when I was swapping in Autotechs at around 17k miles.

[Mfinlay04]

I had some black death in my pump when I first out internals in. Never ran e85 before that obviously. But pump gas contains up to X% of ethanol. I've been on 50/50 corn for three years and never had to clean my pump. Although startups have been getting a little weird so im sure there is black death waiting for me

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

[littleloogy]

Originally Posted by Enki This might actually be a good option for creating a return style fuel system for use with 5th/manyport injection, and provide additional cooling to the HPFP...

Well here are some more pictures of the baffle cover in case you want to see more.


I like that this plate could be used to monitor the low pressure side during WOT pulls. To see if we are getting a pressure drop from the low side.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk