@phate fucking jinxed me. My fuel pressure went to 60 on the way home, and after pulling the valve and pump twice each an cleaning them, I still only get 60 psi.

Fawk!


Tapadatass

Damn... That was fast. He's been running 100% E for a lot longer than you too. :speechless:

Phate now = Ckmazdaspeed hahaha

I'm willing to bet additives won't do a fucking thing for my issue, which is likely seal related rather than general pump goop/stickyness.

What internals do you have? I'll bet that if you pulled your pump and dropped the spring your internals probably won't move freely.

I'll pull the pump either tomorrow or Friday and begin diagnosing the issue. Probably going to need new seals for the sprung nut.

FML.

Autotech. I can easily move the piston with my hand, and the spring returns it to its original position.

Here's the O-ring by the way. There are no signs of it swelling up from E85:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...eed3/018-1.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...Speed3/017.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...eed3/016-1.jpg

And how my internals looked:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...eed3/010-1.jpg

eww

Can you mic both the Autotech and stock internals shaft by chance?

yikes. That's some gunk. I was getting close to considering e85. Scary stuff now though. Plus, I can't even tune my car on the normal stuff...

I guess my point is not to try and address the gunk with mmo but if petrol lubes the internals of a CDFP perhaps 100% E is causing premature wear of the internals.

how many other platforms with DI are running 100% E85 and for how long?

wait...@silvapain...did you run MMO from the beginning?

and even if you did perhaps a better lub is needed...IDK just throwing stuff out there to see what sticks...no pun intended...

Well, last rebuild I oiled THE FUCK out of my shaft. Almost came once too. Had the same tightness after liberal lubrication as when the pump was fresh off the car.

hahaha

idk just thinking out loud

The cobalt boys are direct injection and are running 100% e85 iirc. Least some are. I am carious to other disi platforms running e85 and what kind of solutions they have came up with to run 100% e85.

My Autotechs show no signs of wear. No discoloration or scoring at all.

I started using MMO after the first couple times the spill valve stuck. I have probably 1000 miles on MMO.


Tapadatass

I was reading through the sales literature and MMO website, and it seemed to me that MMO is geared toward keeping things clean, moreso than being a lubricant.

I was @ Autozone, and picked up some Lucas Oil fuel treatment that seems to be whipped up to lubricate, while keeping things clean.

I don't know that it will solve the issue, but may be worth a try.

The lucas treatment is considerably more expensive than MMO also.

The link below can be purchases in bulk quantities that makes it a little cheaper.

http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...el%20Treatment

I'm hoping to borrow an oscilloscope from my University today and use my shop's signal generator to test the spill valve. I'll also pull the pump again and check the regulator.


Tapadatass

hum...so you indicate you can now only run on ITFP yet you have cleaned/inspected everything at the CDFP....have you installed another spill valve? I can send you one to try if you need it?

nvrmind I see that you are going to test yours so I assume you have not replaced it. GL

Kmac was telling me that the tolerances on the piston of the hpfp are too tight to see damage sometimes.

I hope it isn't the case (that your hpfp is damaged), but supposedly, a visual inspection may not be accurate.

Correct.

I have not tried another spill valve; I don't have a spare and there isn't a NATOR member close enough to steal one to test.

Let me do some more testing before I ask you to send me your spare.


Tapadatass

That could be the case with some pressure drop/flux but to run exactly ITF pressure to me indicates the spill valve.

silvapain...IIRC the SV is just a 12v signal so just hook it up to yo battery and see if she clicks? no?

no oscope needed

somebody correct me if I am wrong.

You are correct, and I think he tried that one.

I even tried it with the car running. It clicked, but when I plugged the connector back in it still was at ITFP pressure.

I want to scope the connector side.


Tapadatass

roger that. in for test results.

I must be the luckiest motherfucker in the world or something. I'm sitting at just over 3k miles now on 100% E85 and have had 0 issue's with it. I'm installing some parts either today or Friday, maybe I'll pull the pump and take a look at things since it's been a while.

your luck has just run out.....

lol don't say that, I knocked on wood damnit.

doesn't matter...sorry man..I knocked an entire Oak tree down throughout my fueling issues and 3 pumps later it was the FP sensor connection LOL

...GODDAMIT.....now I've gone and done it...or have I...dunno

HAHAHA!!! That's awesome!!!!

I hesitant to take anything apart now, "if it's not broke don't fix it" is now coming to mind, meh fuck it....

Pulled everything apart again.

Verified the piston moves freely and everything is clean. The solenoid does pull the needle in when given 12 VDC. I am getting ~14VDC at the connector when the car is idling.

I'm completely baffled.


Tapadatass

Looks like I have the same issue as you, @silvapain. Pressure comes in and out, but mostly just stays at ITP pressure. NFC.

Gunk buildup in the line restricting pressure flow? Faulty fuel pressure sender?

My sensor is likely still good as the (low) pressure I see fluctuates regularly, and it comes and goes with no apparent reason. I may just need to pull and clean the rail and injectors sometime soon.

Same here. Reading rises to 55-60 psi as I cycle the key to prime the pump, and varies between 55-75 when idling. The car idles like complete crap, and my fuel trims go way positive as the ECU is trying to compensate for the lack of pressure.


Tapadatass

Have you tried installing your stock HPFP internals to rule out the aftermarket parts being worn?

No. I will give that a try when I get back home from Thanksgiving holiday.


Tapadatass

I was thinking this exactly. If all that gunk was getting into the HPFP, why wouldn't it be in other parts of the fuel system that we haven't mentioned yet? It seems to me that all sorts of shit may be clogged up by now.

I wouldn't completely rule out the fuel pressure sensor. It seems it would be possible for the sensor to potentially be faulty, and giving off false readings, such that the computer compensates based on the false readings, when in actuality little to no compensation might really be necessary. Just postulating obviously, but perhaps.

Why would only e85 guys' FP sensors be going out though? And all at about the same time? Seems unlikely to me.

Nata, my issue has been sticky film, not cholesterol like buildup; seriously doubt there's enough of that sticky film built up in the rail/line to cause flow issues, especially since I was seeing AFRs richer than commanded @ WOT (20 PSI, 100% wastegate to redline).

I'm hoping I just didn't clean the spill valve well enough, but only time will tell; per Phate's recommendation, I'll be pulling the spill valve soonish and re-cleaning it, and if that don't work, will be reinstalling my stock internals.

That doesn't work, well I'ma take out some heavy insurance on my car and light it on fire in a month or two after stocking it out.

The only film I have ever gotten is very light and only shows as the last of the fuel evaporates off of the spill valve. It's very light and wipes right off. It's not something that would cause this kind of issue. I'm probably going to pull mine tomorrow and take a look at it, makes sure everything still looks good.

these are the headaches I was referring to when I said i wasnt interested in E85. Sucks man, hope you guys work it out. thanks for pushing the platform, is all I can say.