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| Not Ranked : 0 score I know that John from PTP has done a huge amount of testing with E85. I think that superskater has been on the phone with him on a few occations talking about fuel pumps and stuff. I will see if I can get him to log on and make a few comments. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score LOL there is some "history" between John and MSF...doubt he'll be logging on and commenting. I personally have nothing against him and just spoke with him a few weeks ago about a pump failure.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Cant believe the last post in here was like 4 days ago. This thread was blowing up for a while. Figure I'll give it a little bump. Anyone who has an Android phone should check out an app called KeenDriver. Its for finding alternative fuel gas stations and you can basically pull up google maps and tell it to show all stations that sell E85. So far it has been very accurate around where I am. I just found a sweet, sweet liquor station right by my work. Now I know of EtOH stations within 2 miles of my house and my work. No excuse not to run it, lol. Need to get a few things sorted out with my car/tune, then time to bump the timing
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @phate It looks like my second tank of 7.5 gallons E to 5 gallons of 93 has resulted in my spill valve sticking. I was getting ~60 PSI at idle intermittently. This is of course after almost a year at various lower E concentrations. About 30 miles ago I filled up with 5 gallons E to 7.5 gallons 93 and it seems to be much better so far (dissolving some of the gunk off is my current conjecture); however, I am likely going to disassemble to clean/inspect. The shop manual doesn't go into any details about disassembling of the pump or spill valve (page 985-987). Do you have any general recommendations on the spill valve removal/disassemble/reassemble? I reread the first 2 pages of this thread were you show the pics but you did not detail any tips/tricks.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah: 1) Unplug the spill valve solenoid from the harness, 2) Unscrew spill valve with 32mm box wrench or adjustable wrench and pull out (pull out, lol) 3) DO NOT DROP SOLENOID 4) Using a cloth covered flat screwdriver, pry around the bottom edge of the collar to work it loose. It doesn't matter if you scratch that edge, but DO NOT scratch the top of the collar where it mates to the spill valve button thing. 5) Clean with brake parts cleaner and a soft rag (I use microfiber but it doesn't really matter). 6) put back together, press collar into solenoid until it sticks, then screw it back in using the tighten-loosen-tighten method until it's tight and the connector points in the same direction as before (assuming you didn't spin it within the nut, cause it will).
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TKS!
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Eff pulling the pump. Just pull the solenoid, it's way easier! Also, once the solenoid is removed, pull the button thingy out and you can see the internals piston through the hole. You'll be able to tell pretty quickly if things are dirty
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Phate, do you still recommend running the SVT filter to people going with relatively high mixes of e85? After your testing, what are your ideas about what is causing any "gunk" to accumulate in either the spill valve or the pump itself? |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score
because I want to see more people gain stupid amounts of power from E85, haha.I think the gunk, initially, was the leftover crap from my tank/lines being dislodged by the E85 and getting shot at my HPFP. After that, though, I do think Blackstone was/is correct about it being oil. I think the oil is getting past the internals piston seal, and accumulating, possibly due to ethanol not dissolving oil as well as gas.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Have there been any 100% genpu testers? I think your theory could easily be confirmed by a lower mileage car testing it to see if there is any gunk. Maybe I need to go 100%.... |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Nope, I've mentioned it to a couple guys, but no one has done it. Let me know if you want to do it!
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I will once I get settled into my new place. I am driving a lot now, and can't be stranded. The new place is only about 1 mile from work, so I can always walk/bike if something happens. Should be mid-November at the latest. There is e-85 literally across the street. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm on my second tank of 100%E85 with no filter (~300 miles) and no problems so far. We'll see how long I go without issues. Tapadatass
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm no more than a couple hours away from being on the sauce myself.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You talking about the car or yourself, lol. Friday afternoon just about to leave work. I got 2.5 gallons E85 in the tank, but I am planning on consuming plenty of EtOH myself tonight as well.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm dry; the car needs AA, and will be binging here soon.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score don't remember if I posted this here but my cars addition is getting worse...its now at a 4/8 mix up from the 3/9 over the last month.....I can see a 5050 mix on the horizon. I have started to log IDC now so we'll see how far I can go with the GT28...meth will help as now I am on a DO7 nozzle but have a 10 at the ready if needed ![]() BTW here is a link for the state by state winter blend schedule. http://www.e85mustangs.com/regions123.html does anyone know if they actually break it down like the above schedule suggests..meaning there are actually 3 blends Winter, spring/fall and summer
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have been running a 50/50 mix for about 3 weeks now. And I started with a 2 e85 gallon mix about a month and a half ago. I never used a filter, granted what everyone else says. But when I started to play with e85 the car only had 2500 miles so I wasnt too worried about gunk. A few things I have noticed is the mechanical fuel pump likes to make more noise on cold start ups than it used to but I monitored it a few times and fuel pressure is golden. I pretty much do a maf cal every other fill up because I add half a gallon more of E85 every other fill up. But the power you get from E is amazing. Whats the point of going BT when I can light up third from a roll.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Made 304WHP/387WTQ on 50/50 mix and 20* of timing. Gained 20WHP/40WTQ over 93 fuel at 18* timing Car rippppppssss
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__________________ Current: N54 135i DCI, DP's, Exhaust, FMIC 12.3@122 2009 Mazdaspeed 3: GT3076 - Corkey tuned Treadstone 3" MAF, HTP 3" turbo inlet, MSCBE, Turbo XS FMIC, CNT catted DP, CP-E HPFP, Tial QR BPV, SURE TIG's, ITV24's, CP-E Stage 2 RMM, Medefail Tranny mount, 18x8 245/40's 390whp/400wtq 12.8@114 Sold | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So here is what I found when I pulled the spill valve: ![]() Lots of gray residue that wiped off easily with a shop towel. ![]() ![]() This part was a little dirty as well: ![]() Had a similar tint on the housing: ![]() ![]() Cleaned up: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I couldn't figure out how to get the spill valve apart, so I just cleaned it up as best as I could with the shop towels and carb cleaner. I fiddled with trying to prior up/apart the 2 retainer pieces, but was afraid of breaking something when they didn't cooperate with moderate force. No issues so far.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score This residue seems to be pretty standard. Mine was like this, after drying it turned a brownish color.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I ran 50% for a few months and now Im on 35% and still see no residue after close to a year of solid use. I run crazy timing with little e85 and no meth. I guess there is no real standard for what any one individual can do. Its all about your particular setup and supporting mods. Looking at Danos logs his car runs much much higher bats than mine. Im not sure what it is that makes my car run sooo much cooler but its the reason I can push my tune on so little e85 and I literally never get knock. What Im saying is everyone of us is gonna have a diffferent e85 experience and be able to push harder than we have ever before. But rest assured itll put a smile on all our faces. LOL KNOCK ON WOOD. lol
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You a right about the poor little k04 being the true bottle neck. But with the traction issues,due to torque, i dont see how more horsepower is going to make things better.
__________________ 2011 Velocity Red Mica MS3 w/Tech Package Mods: Stocking out |
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Zigatapatalka
__________________ Ask Me About My: BNR S3 Turbo \ JBR WP 3.5" Intake \ COBB FMIC \ DNP EX MANI \ COBB DP \ MSCBE \ CPE HPFP CPE Injector Seals \ JBR Thermal Intake & Throttle Body Gaskets \ BOZO EGR Delete BC Coilovers (-2.5º F, -1º R) \ Saitek Front Endlinks \ SPC Rear Camber Arms \ Hotchkis FSB & RSB JBR 88 Duro RMM TMM PMM \ COBB AP (Self Tuned) \ EGT \ Oil Pres \ Oil Temp \ DashHawk | |
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That's why Hp always equals Tq at 5252 RPM. Tapadatass
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__________________ ![]() ![]() 06 BM MS6=stock (totaled) 06 WWP MS6=suspension only (sold) 93 RX-7=single turbo swap, 300whp@8psi, 2600lbs (sold) Wife's 10 MS3=bolt-ons & tune, 13.6 best ET (sold) 13 5.0 Wife's 13 Focus ST |
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__________________ 2011 Velocity Red Mica MS3 w/Tech Package Mods: Stocking out |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to R3L3NTL3S For This Useful Post: | wolly6973 (10-22-2011) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Wheelspin is what you get with 400WHP/450TQ in 1-3rd gears and a lil in 4th sometimes ![]() last two runs were after moving AF from 12.0 to 12.2 and a full * of timing added above 5K for a RL of 19* ![]() and Anthony, my bats are just the way I like them....I don't run those snake oil impregnated gaskets lol
__________________ ![]() 07 Red MS3 GT - E40 - Carrillo Rods - Wiseco Pistons - BSD - JBR 3.5 WidePath - ATP GTX3071 - Forge BPV - GA - Cobb v2 FMIC - CPE EM - CPE DP - CNT CBE - APv3 - Grim EBC - PERM dual port PCV plate - Dano dual OCC - CPE CDFP - Labonte S2 WMI - ACT Street Kit - SUv2 RMM - SU TM - "Stiffy" MM - DG CF wing ext, skirts & front lip - Hotchkis RSB/FSB w PowerGrid Links - Koni FSDs - DBA SX4000 Rotors - Hawk Pads - Silver OZ Ultraleggera - 235/40/18 NT-01 |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Dano For This Useful Post: | wolly6973 (10-22-2011) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Question for the E85 experts. I have 2 pairs of plots below with each taken in the exact same location and same AMB temp of ~60* same tune except for the following: 1st pair map had the below timing curve starting from 2500 on a 3/9 mix Code: 1.00 2.00 6.50 9.00 10.50 12.00 14.00 16.00 18.00 19.00 Code: 1.00 3.00 7.50 10.00 11.50 13.00 15.00 17.00 19.00 20.00 my question is did I lose power because I went beyond MBT or because my mix changed enough to require even more timing. I know this is speculation at this point but any input would be welcome.
__________________ ![]() 07 Red MS3 GT - E40 - Carrillo Rods - Wiseco Pistons - BSD - JBR 3.5 WidePath - ATP GTX3071 - Forge BPV - GA - Cobb v2 FMIC - CPE EM - CPE DP - CNT CBE - APv3 - Grim EBC - PERM dual port PCV plate - Dano dual OCC - CPE CDFP - Labonte S2 WMI - ACT Street Kit - SUv2 RMM - SU TM - "Stiffy" MM - DG CF wing ext, skirts & front lip - Hotchkis RSB/FSB w PowerGrid Links - Koni FSDs - DBA SX4000 Rotors - Hawk Pads - Silver OZ Ultraleggera - 235/40/18 NT-01 |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Dano For This Useful Post: | wolly6973 (10-22-2011) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Best way to tell for sure is to go back to the old timing with the new 4/8 mix. If you go back to the old power levels then it is MBT; if the power drops even more than it's Ethanol requiring more timing. Tapadatass
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| Engineered Tuning ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada
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__________________ We Engineer, and that's better than just tuning! ![]() www.stratifiedauto.com COBB AP and VersaTuner Custom Tuning. Guardian Angel Protection and Boost Control. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Dano, are you still spraying meth over top of E85? |
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Yes I still run 100% meth on a DO7 nozzle...at some point I may need it for fuel IDK. ...goes off to look at todays logs with IDC added.... only 75% IDC @ 320 g/s @ 6500 do we think ~90 IDC is when you are less efficient with atomization and/or are spraying into the spark event?
__________________ ![]() 07 Red MS3 GT - E40 - Carrillo Rods - Wiseco Pistons - BSD - JBR 3.5 WidePath - ATP GTX3071 - Forge BPV - GA - Cobb v2 FMIC - CPE EM - CPE DP - CNT CBE - APv3 - Grim EBC - PERM dual port PCV plate - Dano dual OCC - CPE CDFP - Labonte S2 WMI - ACT Street Kit - SUv2 RMM - SU TM - "Stiffy" MM - DG CF wing ext, skirts & front lip - Hotchkis RSB/FSB w PowerGrid Links - Koni FSDs - DBA SX4000 Rotors - Hawk Pads - Silver OZ Ultraleggera - 235/40/18 NT-01 Last edited by Dano; 10-22-2011 at 04:43 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Dano For This Useful Post: | rfinkle2 (10-27-2011) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Depends on the rpm and the amount of spark advance you are running.
__________________ Ask Me About My: BNR S3 Turbo \ JBR WP 3.5" Intake \ COBB FMIC \ DNP EX MANI \ COBB DP \ MSCBE \ CPE HPFP CPE Injector Seals \ JBR Thermal Intake & Throttle Body Gaskets \ BOZO EGR Delete BC Coilovers (-2.5º F, -1º R) \ Saitek Front Endlinks \ SPC Rear Camber Arms \ Hotchkis FSB & RSB JBR 88 Duro RMM TMM PMM \ COBB AP (Self Tuned) \ EGT \ Oil Pres \ Oil Temp \ DashHawk |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Ziggo For This Useful Post: | rfinkle2 (10-27-2011) |
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