I hate my car...
I swear, everything is seized. Went up to 170 ft lbs on my breaker bar (I use a torque wrench) then decided to use a impact gun. Turned that fucker all the way up and then, "snap!" Lucky I had my trusty extractor kit. Now I'm off to the hardware store to get a bolt. https://vimeo.com/135190385

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...9d0818897d.jpg


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And now I need a new mount... Did Mazda use a thread insert for the TMM center bolt? The threads in the hole are coming out like a spring. No wonder the bolt didn't want to come out. Mother fucker.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...105320533d.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...0b4b04fdc1.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...451c905088.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...f5758ada31.jpg


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Fuck, I literally threw that piece out this morning in the dumpster. Figured I don't need it, and I doubt anyone else ever will. I would have just sent it to you for nothing.

Actually, now that I think about it. I threw it away in a box that I put on the side of the dumpster, because it was full. I'll go over and check real quick to see if it's still there.

Here you go, no cost, just PM me your address...

Fuck is right, Oh well.... I shoved the spring things back in, and slowly worked the hole. I was able to get it the new bolt to hold down about 90 ft lbs. unfortunately I feel as though this thing is a ticking time bomb, I do not feel comfortable driving it.


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Can you take a picture of the threads? Does it look like a three insert or is mine stripped to hell?


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Best picture i could get.

It does look like a thread insert to me. See where the cast meets the threads? Correct me if I'm wrong but that appears to be a gap? Either way, thanks for digging in the trash for me, I owe you one.


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It does seem like that. Thankfully I only had to go as far as to my doorstep. Forgot I was lazy and only took the empty cardboard this morning, and not the trash.

That's what overtightening would look like. Must be the same monkey that installs the o2 sensor.

That shit does look like helicoil stuff. That's ridiculous

There is no helicoil in that mount. That's a stripped thread and the tripod needs replacing before your motor drops.

Correct me if I've been taught wrong, but I've always been taught and followed to not use a torque wrench to loosen bolts. Breaker bar to loosen them, torque wrench to tighten them.

Everyone has a different way of doing it. Hell, I've never even used a torque wrench on any of my cars, never had a problem with anything.

I had a feeling this was the case which is why I have not taken my car off of the stands yet. All though I was able to buy a new bolt and get it threaded, I just did not feel comfortable running the car that way. The bolt just did not feel solid when trying to torque it.

Waiting for @g00s3y;'s package... Damn UPS is sloooow. Is that the mount your talking about right Brock?


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Tripod being the portion of the mount that bolts to the trans. The part that stripped.

E85 Remedy with HPFP Hardware modifications
 

I was taught this by my dad, but I never listen to anyone. Especially since I bought this big ass snap on torque wrench years ago and I never used it, just sat in my tool box. I now use it primarily so I can set the max torque when loosing stubborn nuts/bolts. It works well and you know how tight something was. IIRC This bolt was holding well passed 170ft/lbs. I would rather use a tool that I paid for then to let the investment sit in a box.


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Depending on the style of torque wrench, there is no problem using one to loosen bolts
I use my snap-on digital to measure breakaway torque.
You could salvage that tripod, and make it stronger with a helicoil kit though...

But what do I know?
I'm just here to be a toxic troll and push people away from the community.
I have nothing to offer at all.

I feel as though you are 1 of a select number of the smartest people I have had the privilege of interacting with. I don't know what is toxic about being brutally honest. I have yet to come across a post where you are intentionally trying to rid someone or create toxicity on MSF.

I hope you don't go anywhere. If my Direct injector project works out ,I am going to need your brain and resources to pull off one of the biggest advancements on this platform.


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The reasoning is that a torque wrench can lose its accuracy the more it is used so you would only use it when necessary ie tightening. Also given the relative prices of torque wrenches and breaker bars its more economical to beat on the cheaper breaker bar for stuck fasteners.

That all being said I only have a breaker bar so what do I know?

I'm hoping that package will be there today or tomorrow?

Finally arrived. Got it installed, thanks again. Now I can move on to my next project?


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In.

Anyone have a head laying around that I can borrow/buy? I need to start making an adapter piece to house these injectors that I am playing with.


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I have a trash head, complete with stock exhaust location jig and flanges.

Can I borrow it or you can sell it to me:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...d.php?t=193691

I would really appreciate it. As long as the Injector slots are undamaged it will work well. Might use the head to make a few molds too. I love playing with clay.


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I'll check. I also have the housing that bolts to the head and the HPFP, which you can have if you get me some angle measurements off it.

That would be beneficial. I have been wanting to play with a more moderns HPFP options as well.


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Here's something to think about:

It looks to me like the HPFP cam lobe area is drowning in oil, and there might be a way to drain it back to the pan easily...Chew on these pictures for a bit:

Something like our turbo drain tube?


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Wouldn't that be how they keep the cam lubricated?

Yeah, looks like Mazda had that idea too but decided to not go with it for whatever reason. Seeing as how oil very likely squirts all over the cam lobe and shit, I might do something with that on my build.

Actually it looks like it has direct oiling (green areas). There's a passage that goes from the head to the hpfp mount and looks like it would spray directly on the cam lobes.

If that's the case then a drain would not affect the protection factor. I would be concerned with it being designed to have the lobs splash the oil around.


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Drain probably won't affect the protection factor, but it also won't force oil up into the internals either...which it shouldn't have anyways since theres several layers of scraping going on as it is.

Hold the rotary phone. Am I looking at this correctly? Is there no drain at all? The oil gets pumped through the block into the little spout and then just splashes around in the lobe area. Then the engine turns off and the oil just sits up in there without falling back to the pan? Or does the oil travel back following the cam?
Also, it is possible that the design is there to ensure oil is present at every cold start?


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Your assessment is the same as mine; not sure how important cold start oil is when crank bearings don't get it.

Must find the patent info and see why they put it in there.


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if you were that worried about cold starts...oil accumulator FTW. My machinist's has one on his race car and zero bearing wear after a season or two, not so much as a scuff. he even has an external connection for an air compressor and fill location for new motor cold starts. He was an engineer for Raytheon, so prone to over engineering lol

For those who don't know what it is, its a pressure vessel in-line with the oil system. So it sees the pressure/oil the motor sees while running. Right when you shut the car off you close the inlet valve. this pressurizes the chamber so you have 1/2 qt or so (dealers choice depending on size of the vessel) of 30-60 PSI oil "accumulated" waiting for you. Before you start the car you open the outlet valve and pressurize the entire oiling system of the motor. zero dry starts.

A relay and a couple of solenoids should make it automatic, triggered off the ACC and Off key position.

might need to tweak it a bit with a relieve bypass valve so as not to over pressurize it but you get the jist.

over engineering for sure but WTF else do we do here?

Nothing like blowing your load the moment you turn her on eh? Lol that's actually pretty cool idea.


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haha overkill but yes. for when you run out of things to do.

p.s. don't try and use an OCC. don't think they would do very well at 60PSI. Remember the CS "glued together" OCC failures ? :)

disclaimer: even a welded together OCC will likely fail. its called a pressure vessel for a reason.

Bicker like schoolgirls and post cat gifs.