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I have already passed My original Autotech E85 base test. On AT's at this point I was already experiencing sticky deaths. I ended up having to pull over and stop at 420 miles due to complete fuel pressure loss. But worry not, I am still rocking and rolling. I am back to Killing Modded cars again and reminding myself how I need a new clutch and injector seals. I love the smell of raw E85 fumes pouring into my cab during a WOT run. Sent from my iPhone 6 |
So... IE gets the green light in initial test phase? One tank in? Fapped over pics of Laguna Seca |
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Better sealing...probably won't ever have issues with the redline added. |
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3 tanks in yo! I just drove me car into your hood. I'm crossing my fingers I can get home after my trip to the Gay Area... Sent from my iPhone 6 Quote:
These internals will be great for someone that wants to switch back and fourth between E85 and gas. I'll be honest, I want them to fail so I can quit pressure watching. But I'll push it until I can't go no more... Sent from my iPhone 6 |
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Fapped over pics of Laguna Seca |
Heading here: http://www.thewarfieldtheatre.com/events/detail/253374 got these tickets for Christmas. Sent from my iPhone 6 |
1 Attachment(s) well I have to say this log looks really good for 550 miles on corn. I think I will lean out a bit and turn up the boost to see if I get any fuel pressure drop. Attachment 198744 Fuck yeah! I am pretty Stoked about the results. |
Awesome, looking good. Hope this is the answer to all our problems lol Tho e85 around here is getting up around the price of premium, apparently the cost of ethanol is high or some bs |
That's weird. Mine shot up too the last few days. I might know why... People against GMO crops are setting fires and destroying entire fields. Ignorant people... I tell you. It's interesting to know that without GMO's we would not be able to feed all the people in this world. And with the growing population how will we continue to feed everyone and make E85. I am not going to turn this into a rant, but in short: If you don't like GMO's don't buy them. Burning crops just ruins our E prices Sent from my iPhone 6 |
E subsidies have also tapered off. In the US for sure. Dont know about AU, cletus To continue rant. We cant feed everyone long term. Govts wont tell you that but facts r facts. Tappin |
Meanwhile gas is still subsidized heavily. Also we should be making hooch from switchgrass not corn. Inefficient as all hell. |
Sugarcane > switchgrass > biodegradeable waste > corn Wrote a couple papers on E last semester. Pretty funny how everyone always turns a blind eye to it when it's been staring us in the face for the past 15 years. Also I'm really stoked to see these internals doing so well. @littleloogy; if you don't run into any issues at say 2k miles will you pull the pump to inspect? |
Im mostly against using anything human consumable as fuel source. Better to use that shit as fuel, unless you live in a place where you have a surplus of the product in question (Brazil, for instance, used to have a HUGE ethanol market based off their surplus sugarcane if memory serves). |
Not to derail this thread much further, but when people who say that dont like GMOs they usually have no fucking clue what they are talking about. You want to shock them, simply hypothesize with them how they feel about a diabetics use of insulin to live? Most do not have any idea that as a result of a GMO insulin was created. When it comes to those kinds if things EVERYONE must do their own research and become informed and not take what is crammed down your throat by popular opinion. Good work on the internals though! Keep it up, i would love to see how this turns out after you have put a couple thousand miles on the car. |
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Nevertheless - I have no problems with GMOs or GMO crops - I'd much rather have biologically programmed pest control than chemically sprayed on pest control, for one. There are many other benefits, and GMOs are certainly not going anywhere anytime soon. /thread derailment |
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i believe they were manufacturing the ethanol from the stalks and other leftovers and by products so it was essentially free. |
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/serious thread derailment |
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Ok so now that you have had these internals in for a while would you say they are a pretty good chance at a go for 100% e85? @littleloogy; Quote:
Ok so now that you have had these internals in for a while would you say they are a pretty good chance at a go for 100% e85? @littleloogy; |
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Anywho, back on topic. |
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Yes, back on topic... Quote:
Why did you say that twice? Did you read the thread? I have been on 100% for a few weeks now. Please change your avatar picture, before you post again. You have ruined my mood. Okay, now you can get back off topic... This particular hybrid will mature anywhere from 112-114 days. Comes in conventional, roundup ready, as well as double pro or triple pro which are all Monsanto traits. And it's in the trash... https://vimeo.com/126526352 Sent from my iPhone 6 |
I could have eaten that... Just saying... Fapped over pics of Laguna Seca |
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I'll try anything once. Fapped over pics of Laguna Seca |
Being on E85 sure does create a lot of fluid that collects into my catch can. When I was on petrol, my CC would be dry as a grandma. But now that I made the switch back to E85 I noticed that clear smells like ass fluid is back, and it great numbers. Can was overfilled in just a few weeks. Makes me ponder about the amount of blowby I am getting with E. I love Washing all that oil off my cylinder walls... Will leaning out my mixture help? I am about to find out... I was at 11.4 target so now I will just target 12.0. Besides, there is more power to be made with a leaner mixture I am going to keep boost levels around 17 psi to help save my clutch. My 430 lbs of torque are over... for now. Sent from my iPhone 6 |
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http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ps8c73e0f0.png Leaner mixtures have been tried by me and others on the dyno. They don't offer more power if you are within injector limits on the K04, even after optimizing timing for each mixture. PS - 5 years ago! Time flies. |
I remember reading that in your thread. But for argument sake throw the numbers out the window. From tuning RC cars to dirt bikes to Briggs and Stratton 5 hp engines on methanol. Air fuel ratio has always affected performance. How lean did you go on the Dyno @phate; I remember leaning out to 12.5 trying to keep IDC under 120 i swear I was shitting and getting. But I have no Dyno to prove this. I should buy a Dyno for my garage. I need one. Sent from my iPhone 6 |
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http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ml#post1015222 |
I don't know why I said it twice. But I have read the thread and I was seeing what your final opinion is on running 100% e85 with the IE HPFP. And I Will change my avatar lol it was that when I made the account. I just need to find something to make the avatar now lol. @littleloogy; |
E85 Remedy with HPFP Hardware modifications I would not recommend at this point. We do not know long term affects on the possible increase wear on our cam follower from all the seals. The code has already been cracked: follow this guide... If done right, It has been tested and proven. It will set you free. http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...d.php?t=186427 Sent from my iPhone 6 |
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Dustin, remember that guy, had many a car on a dyno, two separate tuning events IIRC, and proved there are no measurable gains going leaner than 11.8-12.0. So if you can't see it on a dyno graph you will never notice it in your butt...so why put the engine in danger of overheating. @loogy now wall wash is another consideration I suppose but I don't see going from 11.8 to 12 or 12.2 making much difference in what you see in your OCC and what get into the oil. if you're running 11.4 then hell yes lean that chit out to 11.8-12.0. In your case you might see some power gains but I don't think a dataset as rich as that was tested on the rollers. i.e. going from 11.4 to 12.0 and power gains measured. Quote:
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Yeah, he takes better notes then me. It should be stickied, but I dot get to make decisions like that. I leave that up to the mods... Sent from my iPhone 6 |
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Also, I just caught the local E85 shift at my pump. Went from 12.0 to 12.7+ at WOT and never noticed until I checked a log. Verified no leaks etc. There's power to be had, IMO, from say 11.4 to 12.0 but after that Idk. I certainly couldn't feel it seat of pants for what little that's worth. |
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Okay, that makes more sense. I remember when I first started on E I was targeting 11.4 as you say. I then leaned to 11.6 and it felt faster, then to 11.8, and it felt even faster still. So I would imagine that's where I got in my head wrapped around the fact that leaning E on this platform does yield more power. There still might be power to be made with a/f ratio changes in combination with higher BAT. I talked with @Enki; in the past about this and now he has his hands full Frankensteining his shit to prove/disprove these theories. If anyone can figure that out it will be him. I intend on joining the fun after I get my car fixed up. Sent from my iPhone 6 |
1 Attachment(s) It's interesting how much difference VVT and AFR's can influence my VD numbers, car is flowing great 270g/s @ only 15lbs of boost, 12.1 AFR and pretty conservative on my timing. Attachment 199012 900 miles on E85 with these internals, no issues. time to play... Today's Project since it's Saturday Afternoon and I am not drunk yet. Do BAT's Affect VD numbers? I need to adjust my tune so BAT's wont affect timing. Then I will increase air restriction by covering my Stock IC with some Aluminum foil and securing it with the IC cover. I will do a base 4th gear Pull, then Do a Pull with 25%, 50%, and possibly 75% coverage depending on how far I am willing to push it. I will be posting VD results to see if there are any Noticable Increases/ Decreases |
I can already tell you that BATs affect airflow greatly. Hot air in = hotter air out = falls on its face. Also, I'm now making between 3 and 4 psi less at about the same airflow numbers. Edit: You pretty much always want the coldest air possible going into the cylinder. |
E85 Remedy with HPFP Hardware modifications 1 Attachment(s) The results came to no surprise to me. I used this method last winter to keep my BAT's higher because my ASS felt faster when I did. Even doing these tests I could feel my car pick up top end. Every run was done on the exact same spot (right after a big red barn), starting at the same speed (more/less) and within about 20 minutes of each other during the hottest part of the day. So, don't give me any shit about how The results are tainted in some way. had a farmer ask why I was putting aluminum foil in my car. After I explained, he scratched his head and told me to be careful racing down his street. Anyway, Looking at the graph you can see how as BAT went up with the increase IC coverage. The 30% coverage seemed the same as the Base test. It was not until 60% and 80% coverage that I felt some gains. Why I wanted to Test: Back to my Flathead briggs days, Running close to the same fuel. I would head out on the track for practice at 6:00 in the morning with ambient air temps at 60 degrees. My kart would run like shit. Bogging in the corners, and not having any top end power. Despite my efforts to adjust my Carb, I could not get it to run right. Towards the afternoon when temps would be closer to 100 degrees my kart would run like a bat out of hell. I actually had to richen the A/F mixture to keep my head cool. This is also why I believe AFR and BAT combo's will affect efficiency and power. On a dyno with BAT's being the same temp you will not see gains with only a/f adjustments. Getting the Right Combination is going to take some Time and Lots of testing. Digest... Attachment 199015 |
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You are correct when it come to air flow. That last pull I did was 80% coverage and showed less air moving but seemed to have more go. The Log shows about a 150 BAT Sent from my iPhone 6 |
Yeah it seemed to me that anything over 130 was losing oomph on my turbo (when WGDC was already 100%). Edit: It will be really interesting seeing what 2 GPH of 100% meth does for me pre turbo. |
Interesting!? I'll say. You are nuts! At the least, It should keep your turbo clean. I have been thinking about my setup. I think I will use the intercooler and a bypass. I will have valves on the pipes that open and close to keep BAT at my desired level. Similar to your shower trying to get the right temperature. Plumbing and the electronic aspect will be a challenge. Sent from my iPhone 6 |
Shouldn't be that hard, really. A single temp sensor somewhere near the intake and an Arduino controlling whatever you use for bypass should do the trick. At some point I need to finish up my PWM WMI controller and get that bitch plugged in. |
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You and Arduino. I really need to sit down and start playing with my kit again. I have never been a fan of writing code. It's a whole new language, and a whole new world for me. I might just make a open loop design if I am too lazy to figure out how to program it. Sent from my iPhone 6 |
I can help with the coding. |
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I love it when you talk dirty like that. Question: has anyone opened up the orifice on the hard fuel line in an attempt to decrease restriction? When I pulled my hardline, I noticed the pin hole of an opening that dumps in the fuel rail, ever think about opening this up? Sent from my iPhone 6 |
Yeah it's been done. IIRC, gains were marginal if even existent. I think it was determined that the orifice wasn't a flow restriction. |
Hacking up my shit today. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...9c94e8531d.jpg @Dano; style. Sent from my iPhone 6 |
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Ugh, well that is one way to do it. I was thinking something a little more... Subtle. Beside, I don't have any air chisels handy Sent from my iPhone 6 |
E85 Remedy with HPFP Hardware modifications http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...3f1e4527d2.jpgThis is why I can't ever have anything nice! got to fuck shit up, because lazy... Sent from my iPhone 6 |
Man, if a little ding in your roof sent your OCD on a rant I can't wait to see how you clean that up so you're not freaked out about it even if you can't see it! OTOH, easy access FTW! |
E85 Remedy with HPFP Hardware modifications The nibbler got away from me. I swear that thin had a mind of its own. I got done and said... "What the fuck did I just do!?" Sent from my iPhone 6 E85's toll on the GEN 2 fuel sender http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...0d259ebe3d.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...ca3c068873.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...0e7e659996.jpg Sent from my iPhone 6 |
For those of you who do not know how a fuel gauge works: There is a voltage (usually 5volts that shoots down the red wire heading This nice circuitry of lines and represents a different value of resistance. the higher the resistance, the lower the voltage. So the voltage going back to the computer will read lower then the voltage going in. Thus giving you a level of fuel on your gauge. As far as the resistor pad and points go, they are functioning properly. I am getting different ohm reads though the range. That's great news for us! Two problems with the GEN 2 fuel sender: First is the engineers thought it to be a great idea to use brass or bronze connectors instead of gold plated. This in theory is a good idea with petrol, but when you start adding oxygenated fuel you will get oxidation and corrosion which causes the plates to loos connection. Similar to a corroded battery connector. Second problem that I see is the factory went cheap and did not want to take the time to solder the connections. They are relying on put clamping force. Which is never s good idea. I'll post again when it's fixed. I need to clean by bench... http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...5d7ad1e622.jpg Sent from my iPhone 6 |
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I bet I'll finish first! Sent from my iPhone 6 |
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His is fucked up again... I win Sent from my iPhone 6 |
E85 Remedy with HPFP Hardware modifications http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...4a69681571.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...05aa9cc83a.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...4fb4c22ac6.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...17139b8ae8.jpg Done and done https://vimeo.com/126750122 Can't even tell... http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...1c5539d8d6.jpg Sent from my iPhone 6 |
What's soldered on there? Gold plated tab? Fapped over pics of Laguna Seca |
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I'm burning some fuel up, verifying that my gauge is not stuck at 3/4 full. After I see it drop and register full after I fillip I'll give details. But In short, solder ball with a point in it, and a piece of a paper clip lol Sent from my iPhone 6 |
Could you just solder over the whole thing and prevent issues? |
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No, the black you see on the left side is a special coating that solder will not adhere to. I then tried to scrape off the coating looking for s trace to solder to. Unfortunately there was none under it. Sent from my iPhone 6 |
Whatever magic you have done, I am 150% interested. Being able to know my fuel level is something I do like. Also yeah I did finish the same day I started that fun. I'll definitely be pulling it tomorrow to look at it, and hopefully fix it with your magic. |
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It's on a need to know basis. IIRC you are on petrol, you trader. Sent from my iPhone 6 |
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It's working and Looks good. I'll write how to do it now since I got a 12 pack of XX and a copy of "The Love Bug" (a 1968 classic) to watch. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...11abf14c79.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...74509c47bc.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...9cb601cac9.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...7c4458d0d3.jpg Sent from my iPhone 6 |
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Dam auto correct... Sent from my iPhone 6 |
E85 Remedy with HPFP Hardware modifications All you need to get you fuel level sensor working again is a solder pencil, some steel wool, and some WD-40. First the obvious, you need to either drop your fuel tank or make your access hole bigger to get to to your ITFP which is where your fuel sender unit is. Remove your pump and place it on your work bench and take a look at your problem child. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...299b7f56ef.jpg Remove the fuel level sending unit from the housing by sliding it upwards and unplugging the connector. Place the fuel pump aside. What I did was take some WD-40 and a toothbrush to clean everything up. WD-40 will clean up everything that has been corroding. (Used this when I did Amplifier repair and it worked great!) The next thing you will want to do is grab your ohm meter and check connectivity. Like so... http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...1a49b54ece.jpg in my case I was reading an open circuit which was caused by a bad connection between the terminal and the plate. So what I did was I took the corroded terminal off and used some 00 steel wool soaked in WD-40 to clean the terminal. I then took some Q-tips with wd 40 on the plate to clean it up so there will be a solid connection. To prevent any future corrosion I soldered a solder ball on the tip of the terminal with some silver bearing solderhttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...3b73007eff.jpg http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...5163d6c353.jpg Put it back together, verify connectivity, and you should be golden. Make sure you use as much clamping force as possible when reattaching the terminal to the plate. If anyone needs more detail or questions feel free to ask. Sent from my iPhone 6 |
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So how long does it normally take for the sender to take a shit once full corn touches it? |
Couple weeks in my case. I was on 50/50 with no problems. When I switched to full E... Went out, quick! Sent from my iPhone 6 |
How quick is quick? |
Few weeks compadre Sent from my iPhone 6 |
So there's a bit of time that needs to pass before this can be signed off as 100% fixed then...? Or did you already do this weeks ago? |
E85 Remedy with HPFP Hardware modifications |
Filmed with advanced potato 2.0 pro. |
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Wait, who signs off on my work? I have not said that this was a 100%, Cure all. I was asked me to post up how I did it, so I did. Usually wait a good while before posting how I did something to prevent some jerkoff copying shit prematurely Sent from my iPhone 6 |
I was only asking for clarification. I wasn't sure if you had tested this as being 100% fixed on full corn yet or not. |
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Alright, fine. It is in HD now... Sent from my iPhone 6 |
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Attachment 199093 Attachment 199094 Attachment 199095 Attachment 199096 I will be collecting some more data This week. I should really start to think about sorting out this thread. I have 3 projects going on at the moment, even I cant keep it straight. |
5 Attachment(s) Well, I did it again, But this time I wanted to put my timing back to how I normally Run. I also wanted to try no coverage VS 100% Coverage. the results this time were completely Backwards from my last attempt. BAT's sure can climb fast Attachment 199187 Attachment 199188 Attachment 199189 Attachment 199190 Attachment 199191 |
I fear that running this much timing with high BAT's is pushing me past MBT. My next test will be running 1/2 the timing That I am currently running. If you look at my 80 WOT log from my post from yesterday, notice my timing at the higher RPM range when my BAT's are at their highest compared to the uncovered run. The timing is much lower (I screwed up a timing table on accident) yet I am making more power then the uncovered runs. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...d174fc1eb9.jpg http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...fbc1d789ff.jpg Sent from my iPhone 6 |
E85 Remedy with HPFP Hardware modifications Back to the fuel level sender problem: Update... I have yet to experience any problems with my okie rigged level sender. I ran my tank down to where it said I had 7 miles left in tank. It then took 14 gallons to top it off. So if anyone is wondering, the range is still accurate. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...efe1aa20cd.jpg Cheers! Sent from my iPhone 6 |
Level sender would have normally gone out by now right? |
E85 Remedy with HPFP Hardware modifications |
My first sender went out at about 53k, bought the car with 37k. That was about 8k miles on pump, 8k miles on e42.5 mix, then about 500 miles on full e before it started going. When I replaced it the first time, it lasted through about 2 tanks of 50/50 and 3 tanks of e85. After soldering it, I'm about halfway through my second tank of e with no problems. Sender was a bit wonky with the first tank, but that was to be expected as it was "calibrating" i'm sure. |
Glad it's working @g00s3y; I appreciate the feed back. Please let us know if you run into a problem. we are the only ones doing this, that I know of. Sent from my iPhone 6 |
@Dano; has a Juan. |
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edit: and have no intention of getting a PU. Maybe a gen 3 but more likely a Focus RS in 2017. |
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On topic though, 500+ miles on e85 after soldering and fuel level sender still working correctly. |
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1 Attachment(s) nope it was the RS. I live at 10,000 FT ASL and they test cars up here all the time. I live right by the highest town in the US. Here is the best pic we could get. Michigan plates.... |
Shit that's awesome. Look at that single pipe sticking out the back, were you able to get a look at the front? Is that just blurry, or do they really have a Chevy emblem on the back lol. |
a pic is worth a thousand words as they say...certainly looks like an RS. Wing, rear diffuser, sculpted sides of rear bumper and wheels are def not OEM ST and look like the RS package. better place to discuss this here. post up your pic. http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...cus-rs-183726/ |
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