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![]() | | #361 | ![]() |
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__________________ 2012 CWP Speed3 |:| Cobb V3 AP |:| Resonator Delete |:| Magnaflow Exhaust |:| 4" Exhaust Tips |:| CorkSport SRI |:| Autotech Internals |:| SnailPerformance |
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![]() | | #362 | ![]() |
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I'm burning some fuel up, verifying that my gauge is not stuck at 3/4 full. After I see it drop and register full after I fillip I'll give details. But In short, solder ball with a point in it, and a piece of a paper clip lol Sent from my iPhone 6 | |
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![]() | | #363 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Could you just solder over the whole thing and prevent issues?
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score No, the black you see on the left side is a special coating that solder will not adhere to. I then tried to scrape off the coating looking for s trace to solder to. Unfortunately there was none under it. Sent from my iPhone 6 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Whatever magic you have done, I am 150% interested. Being able to know my fuel level is something I do like. Also yeah I did finish the same day I started that fun. I'll definitely be pulling it tomorrow to look at it, and hopefully fix it with your magic.
__________________ All good things must come to an end... Last edited by g00s3y; 05-03-2015 at 05:07 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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It's on a need to know basis. IIRC you are on petrol, you trader. Sent from my iPhone 6 | |
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__________________ All good things must come to an end... | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score It's working and Looks good. I'll write how to do it now since I got a 12 pack of XX and a copy of "The Love Bug" (a 1968 classic) to watch. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Sent from my iPhone 6 |
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__________________ True Red 2009 MS3 Damond Motorsports: RMM // Short Shift Plate Suspension: Koni Yellows // Swift Spec-r springs // Fatcat motorsports front bump stops // Rear Camber Arms Brakes: Hawk HPS pads // ATE Superblue fluid // Stainless Steel Brake Lines Other: CP-e Safe Seals // MattDamond shift plate // Masonvi shift knob // 3.5" WP w/recirc // RSB // IM + TB tigs // Synapse Engineering FMIC + BOV // Autotech internals Tune: hypnotic tuned Critical Stats: // 305whp/352tq // 13.34 @ 98 - Mason Dixon Dragway - 4/13/14 Titanium Gray 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 Damond Motorsports: OCC // Short shift plate // Turbo oil feed restrictor bolt Other: Autotech internals // Ebay M2 DP // Masonvi shift knob // |
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![]() | | #372 | ![]() |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score All you need to get you fuel level sensor working again is a solder pencil, some steel wool, and some WD-40. First the obvious, you need to either drop your fuel tank or make your access hole bigger to get to to your ITFP which is where your fuel sender unit is. Remove your pump and place it on your work bench and take a look at your problem child. ![]() Remove the fuel level sending unit from the housing by sliding it upwards and unplugging the connector. Place the fuel pump aside. What I did was take some WD-40 and a toothbrush to clean everything up. WD-40 will clean up everything that has been corroding. (Used this when I did Amplifier repair and it worked great!) The next thing you will want to do is grab your ohm meter and check connectivity. Like so... in my case I was reading an open circuit which was caused by a bad connection between the terminal and the plate.So what I did was I took the corroded terminal off and used some 00 steel wool soaked in WD-40 to clean the terminal. I then took some Q-tips with wd 40 on the plate to clean it up so there will be a solid connection. To prevent any future corrosion I soldered a solder ball on the tip of the terminal with some silver bearing solder ![]() Put it back together, verify connectivity, and you should be golden. Make sure you use as much clamping force as possible when reattaching the terminal to the plate. If anyone needs more detail or questions feel free to ask. Sent from my iPhone 6 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So how long does it normally take for the sender to take a shit once full corn touches it?
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Couple weeks in my case. I was on 50/50 with no problems. When I switched to full E... Went out, quick! Sent from my iPhone 6 |
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![]() | | #376 | ![]() |
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![]() | | #377 | ![]() |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Few weeks compadre Sent from my iPhone 6 |
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![]() | | #378 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So there's a bit of time that needs to pass before this can be signed off as 100% fixed then...? Or did you already do this weeks ago?
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Last edited by littleloogy; 05-03-2015 at 11:56 PM. |
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![]() | | #381 | ![]() |
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Wait, who signs off on my work? I have not said that this was a 100%, Cure all. I was asked me to post up how I did it, so I did. Usually wait a good while before posting how I did something to prevent some jerkoff copying shit prematurely Sent from my iPhone 6 | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I was only asking for clarification. I wasn't sure if you had tested this as being 100% fixed on full corn yet or not.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score base no coverage.csv 30%coverage wot.csv 60% wot.csv 80% wot.csv I will be collecting some more data This week. I should really start to think about sorting out this thread. I have 3 projects going on at the moment, even I cant keep it straight. | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Well, I did it again, But this time I wanted to put my timing back to how I normally Run. I also wanted to try no coverage VS 100% Coverage. the results this time were completely Backwards from my last attempt. BAT's sure can climb fast BAT test 2.jpg 100% coverage 1st run.csv 100% coverage 2nd run.csv Uncovered 1st Run.csv Uncovered 2nd run.csv |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I fear that running this much timing with high BAT's is pushing me past MBT. My next test will be running 1/2 the timing That I am currently running. If you look at my 80 WOT log from my post from yesterday, notice my timing at the higher RPM range when my BAT's are at their highest compared to the uncovered run. The timing is much lower (I screwed up a timing table on accident) yet I am making more power then the uncovered runs. ![]() ![]() Sent from my iPhone 6 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Back to the fuel level sender problem: Update... I have yet to experience any problems with my okie rigged level sender. I ran my tank down to where it said I had 7 miles left in tank. It then took 14 gallons to top it off. So if anyone is wondering, the range is still accurate. ![]() Cheers! Sent from my iPhone 6 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score My first sender went out at about 53k, bought the car with 37k. That was about 8k miles on pump, 8k miles on e42.5 mix, then about 500 miles on full e before it started going. When I replaced it the first time, it lasted through about 2 tanks of 50/50 and 3 tanks of e85. After soldering it, I'm about halfway through my second tank of e with no problems. Sender was a bit wonky with the first tank, but that was to be expected as it was "calibrating" i'm sure.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Glad it's working @g00s3y; I appreciate the feed back. Please let us know if you run into a problem. we are the only ones doing this, that I know of. Sent from my iPhone 6 |
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__________________ ![]() I hugged rfinkle2 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score edit: and have no intention of getting a PU. Maybe a gen 3 but more likely a Focus RS in 2017.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Speaking of the focus RS, i saw one yesterday ripping around, the guy wouldn't stop to talk tho he was taunting us and then weaved through traffic and took some backroad
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On topic though, 500+ miles on e85 after soldering and fuel level sender still working correctly.
__________________ All good things must come to an end... | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score as goosey said, it's unlikely you saw an RS.....won't be here till 2017...and there is a HUGE difference between the ST and RS. Not even close to the same car.
__________________ ![]() 07 Red MS3 GT - E40 - Carrillo Rods - Wiseco Pistons - BSD - JBR 3.5 WidePath - ATP GTX3071 - Forge BPV - GA - Cobb v2 FMIC - CPE EM - CPE DP - CNT CBE - APv3 - Grim EBC - PERM dual port PCV plate - Dano dual OCC - CPE CDFP - Labonte S2 WMI - ACT Street Kit - SUv2 RMM - SU TM - "Stiffy" MM - DG CF wing ext, skirts & front lip - Hotchkis RSB/FSB w PowerGrid Links - Koni FSDs - DBA SX4000 Rotors - Hawk Pads - Silver OZ Ultraleggera - 235/40/18 NT-01 |
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![]() | | #398 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: SLC, UT
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| Not Ranked : 0 score nope it was the RS. I live at 10,000 FT ASL and they test cars up here all the time. I live right by the highest town in the US. Here is the best pic we could get. Michigan plates....
__________________ GTX 2867/ JBR OG 3.5 WP/ Snail Ported IM/ ITV-22/ DAMOND RMM EBAY DP wCAT/ HKS BPV/ CP-E FP/ COBB EBCS/ PG FMIC W/ TR8 STOPTECH/ EBC YELLOW/ GOODRIDGE LINES/ MOTUL RBF 600 [443/409]SAE CORRECTED -------------245 DZ102 / 245 NT01 |
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![]() | | #399 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Shit that's awesome. Look at that single pipe sticking out the back, were you able to get a look at the front? Is that just blurry, or do they really have a Chevy emblem on the back lol.
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![]() | | #400 | ![]() |
| Trail of Fail ![]() Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: rock city AR
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| Not Ranked : 0 score a pic is worth a thousand words as they say...certainly looks like an RS. Wing, rear diffuser, sculpted sides of rear bumper and wheels are def not OEM ST and look like the RS package. better place to discuss this here. post up your pic. http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...cus-rs-183726/
__________________ ![]() 07 Red MS3 GT - E40 - Carrillo Rods - Wiseco Pistons - BSD - JBR 3.5 WidePath - ATP GTX3071 - Forge BPV - GA - Cobb v2 FMIC - CPE EM - CPE DP - CNT CBE - APv3 - Grim EBC - PERM dual port PCV plate - Dano dual OCC - CPE CDFP - Labonte S2 WMI - ACT Street Kit - SUv2 RMM - SU TM - "Stiffy" MM - DG CF wing ext, skirts & front lip - Hotchkis RSB/FSB w PowerGrid Links - Koni FSDs - DBA SX4000 Rotors - Hawk Pads - Silver OZ Ultraleggera - 235/40/18 NT-01 |
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