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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score When hot It should go all the way to at least 1800 before you should see pressure dropping. When pressure stops climbing and decreases that would be the opening of the RV. If it's opening at 594... That not good. Sent from my iPhone 6 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Not if it drops at the same rate it climbed at. Pretty sure mine does the same thing when it's cool out, and I have a stock HPRV.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score My gut feeling is that everything is working ok. Might not be at peak efficiency, but still working. I feel if it wasn't good, I would have other problems popping up also. Any other way to really check the valve? I don't care if I have to pull it to do so, saw the how-to, doesn't seem hard at all.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Pulling the valve is a huge pain in the ass. You'll know if the valve is failing by how fast the pressure drops and if you can hold pressure up top. Blip the throttle and shut down the moment you do; KOEO and see what pressure does.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score His logs show pressure dipping in the 1500's under WOT. Sent from my iPhone 6 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Now, I look at the logs, in the upper RPM's it seems the pressure is "decent", it's between 3k-5k I feel that it struggles and where the most low 1600/high 1500 cells are. I also thought that it was just because of running full e, and everything working "harder", was a reason for seeing some lower pressure cells. Completely forgot to check the pressure again this morning, when I leave work I'll do it.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score FWIW I had to bump a few cells up by 100psi or so when I made the jump from 50/50 to full. Might just be a volume thing but you've gone from full to 93 to 50/50 etc before so idk..
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ok, so, first time. This was after a couple WOT pulls. Tapped throttle, turned off, key on, car started back up..... Did the same, turned it off again, key on. Showed 893 psi and slowly rose 3-5 psi every 5 seconds for the next minute that I watched it. Cruised the rest of the way home, pulled in, tapped throttle, car off, key on. Showed 1203 psi, and slowly dropped 3-5 psi every 2-3 seconds for the next minute that I watched it, seemed to slow down slightly the longer I sat there. I bumped it up to 1800psi max, instead of the 1750 on e85 before. Honestly don't remember if it made a difference or not. I see I kept it at 1750 in my current tune. I may try 1800 if I find out everything is fine, and it's not something else possibly causing this problem.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If the PRV was opening, it would be an immediate and RAPID drop in pressure. I think you're fine in that department. Sounds like either the spill valve or internals might have a bit of sticky on them or the internals might be scored (like mine were when I had a similar issue). I'd start with squirting some redline in through the spill valve cavity and see if that helps; don't forget to remove any excess fuel too.
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And if the internals are messed up, I may just pull the trigger on those IE internals and then hopefully not have to worry about the pump/internals anymore.
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And my pulse with drops with the increased IDC. (Sorry I moved this over to here so we don't cloud someone else's Review with this play talk. ) In your opinion do you think that retarding the intake advance back to 0 yields less of a fueling window? Like the injection point changes as you increase or decrease advancement? Also, any harm in running VVT advance to redline for testing? I am half temped to advance my intake to 10 degrees to redline and see if that help fueling. Sent from my iPhone 6 | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It's been an issue for quite a while. Holding vvt just above 0 prevents it. Something to do with behind the scenes things we don't have access to that happened a couple of atr released ago.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I would have to say that is very weird. Thanks for chiming in master @phate; I guess I'll shoot for 3 degree of advance on my next revision and see where that takes me. Sent from my iPhone 6 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Well, that makes sense why close to 5k I sometimes get a jump from ~75 IDC to ~95 IDC out of nowhere. I may have to try this also, extra fueling headroom is never a bad thing.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So, i'm going to try and run this, only changed what is red, was at 0 before. I'm thinking it should be safe, can't imagine this blowing anything up. But if it does, I guess I have a damn good reason to build my motor finally. In my current logs, on my latest revision, I'm just barely going above 100 IDC. Not getting any stumbling, which is good. Last VD log had me at 310/345. Getting back up there on full e, very happy. Not to mention, the price of 93 is now at least $1.10 higher than e85 ($1.99) around here now. I'm done rambling with this statement full of randomness now. Time to go clean my HPFP.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So, pulled my pump. More oil in the housing than I think there should be. Other than that, everything was fine, just the same light dusting that was on the spill valve, were on parts of the internals. Cleaned everything up with SI-1. But this amount of oil, eh...
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| Not Ranked : 0 score so no solid fix for this yet?? still seems people are getting the sticky and black death
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yup and atleast to Wat I read it still seems he couldn't solve the problem. Only thing I've read (not on this thread) were a diff type of internals with a nitride coating Tht stops the build-up. Company out of salt lake city... They are made for 2.0t pumps... Also has a certain type of gasket to keep the oil from reaching the spill valve and internals.
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This thread includes the best solution for running FULL E85, not a mix. However, you can run high concentrates of a mix and experience the problem if not using the method laid out here. At this time there is no hardware fix for us. But the additive in the spill valve is the next best thing.
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It seems you were able to read well enough to tell us what we already knew about the IE HPFP internals, you can thank @littleloogy; for testing those for us.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Wow... Sry didn't read all the way through... Just saw the mods on the pump Tht were being tryed to no real avail. I saw the part about sl-1 just didn't put 2 and 2 together...
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah, I guess the sticky at the top of the sub-forum saying: Full E85 Redline S-1 Cure steps/results. is a bit hard to understand.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm reading this on my phone on tapatalk couldn't see Tht. I just saw this thread didn't see the sticky with the s-1 cure sorry..
__________________ In progress: Engine: Built long block by Keefover. Keyed crank,keyed cams/VVT,Crower 65lb valve springs,Wiseco pistons,Manley H beam rods,AFI t3 stock location mani,Comp turbo CT4x 53-56,Kozmic 6th port PI with 2200cc bosch injectors,N2MB WOT box,Relentless ported intake mani,Kozmic oil feed line,Custom oil return line,Ramfab 3.5" intake,Ramfab alum. crash bar,Ramfab IC piping,TR10 IC,Saiko Michi and JBR dual custom catch can setup, Guardian angel v3 with 4bar map sensor,Dual Deatschwerks in-tank fuel hat with bigger pickup,-6an nylon braided fuel lines,Fuel labs FPR,SP63 3 port EBCS,Mishimoto oil cooler, HKS SSQV1,BSD,Autotech FP internals,CPE injector seals EGR delete,TB coolant bypass delete,M2 Ebay DP Suspenion/Bracing: Sonic tuning CO's revalved by Feal Suspension, QA1 600lb rear springs, 750lb front Swift springs,AWR front and rear sway bar endlinks,Whiteline RSB,SPC front adjustable ball joints,GT spec ladder brace,SU rear interior brace,NRG harness bar. Drivetrain:SS brake lines,SS clutch line,Carbotech ax6 F&R, Southbend STG 3 endurance clutch and flywheel,SU rear diff mount,SU front rear diff mount,SP63 TC caps,DSS rear axles,AWR Trilogy mounts 70A,Hubcentric centering rings,2" brake ducting F&R,TWM STS stg 1 with bushing kit Interior:Redline custom shift boot,Redline custom steering wheel cover,Redline custom ebrake handle cover Bride Stradia V.2 rep seats,Corbeau seat brackets,JBR heavy shift knob,Custom LED gauge cluster,Custom Steering column dual gauge pod,AEM wideband failsafe,AEM oil pressure gauge,Schrothe Rallye 4 harnesses,Escort 9500ix with mirror mount and hard wired with external controller,DIY ipod adapter. Exterior: STI front lip,Enkei PF01SS 17x9 +48 wrapped in Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R's 245/45/17,Full clear bra,Muteki SR48 blue locking lug nuts,RHO side plate mount,Smoked side markers, Shark fin antenna |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Full E85 for 10k+ miles straight, including 1000 mile round trip work-cation to VA beach. Because S-1. If @littleloogy; gets to a point where these internals are a 100% confirm, then we'll have 2 options really. Those that have yet to purchase internals can go with these and those that already have AT's or the like can go S1 l00b.
__________________ Speed 6 Gone for 3+ years and still not happy about it 2007 Speed 3. JBR 3" WP. AP. Autotechs. Full Maize. CP-E Stage 2 RMM, Rubber Filled OEM TMM, Nator'd TP, Moog's and DM SSP Enki - "High mixes of corn = all the wastegate all the time for great justice." |
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__________________ In progress: Engine: Built long block by Keefover. Keyed crank,keyed cams/VVT,Crower 65lb valve springs,Wiseco pistons,Manley H beam rods,AFI t3 stock location mani,Comp turbo CT4x 53-56,Kozmic 6th port PI with 2200cc bosch injectors,N2MB WOT box,Relentless ported intake mani,Kozmic oil feed line,Custom oil return line,Ramfab 3.5" intake,Ramfab alum. crash bar,Ramfab IC piping,TR10 IC,Saiko Michi and JBR dual custom catch can setup, Guardian angel v3 with 4bar map sensor,Dual Deatschwerks in-tank fuel hat with bigger pickup,-6an nylon braided fuel lines,Fuel labs FPR,SP63 3 port EBCS,Mishimoto oil cooler, HKS SSQV1,BSD,Autotech FP internals,CPE injector seals EGR delete,TB coolant bypass delete,M2 Ebay DP Suspenion/Bracing: Sonic tuning CO's revalved by Feal Suspension, QA1 600lb rear springs, 750lb front Swift springs,AWR front and rear sway bar endlinks,Whiteline RSB,SPC front adjustable ball joints,GT spec ladder brace,SU rear interior brace,NRG harness bar. Drivetrain:SS brake lines,SS clutch line,Carbotech ax6 F&R, Southbend STG 3 endurance clutch and flywheel,SU rear diff mount,SU front rear diff mount,SP63 TC caps,DSS rear axles,AWR Trilogy mounts 70A,Hubcentric centering rings,2" brake ducting F&R,TWM STS stg 1 with bushing kit Interior:Redline custom shift boot,Redline custom steering wheel cover,Redline custom ebrake handle cover Bride Stradia V.2 rep seats,Corbeau seat brackets,JBR heavy shift knob,Custom LED gauge cluster,Custom Steering column dual gauge pod,AEM wideband failsafe,AEM oil pressure gauge,Schrothe Rallye 4 harnesses,Escort 9500ix with mirror mount and hard wired with external controller,DIY ipod adapter. Exterior: STI front lip,Enkei PF01SS 17x9 +48 wrapped in Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R's 245/45/17,Full clear bra,Muteki SR48 blue locking lug nuts,RHO side plate mount,Smoked side markers, Shark fin antenna | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score My personal confidence in the Redline fix is near 100%. It's honestly not even an afterthought for me anymore. Shit just works.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score All brought to you by a guy named loogy and his band of merry men ink goos and fat... We still eagerly await the report on the van shaft follower wear pattern and any other observations. Fapped over pics of Laguna Seca
__________________ 2012 CWP Speed3 |:| Cobb V3 AP |:| Resonator Delete |:| Magnaflow Exhaust |:| 4" Exhaust Tips |:| CorkSport SRI |:| Autotech Internals |:| SnailPerformance |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You say Redline but do you mean Redline + Royal Purple Dexos = solution ? Or did I miss something about the oil no longer being a factor?
__________________ ![]() 07 Red MS3 GT - E40 - Carrillo Rods - Wiseco Pistons - BSD - JBR 3.5 WidePath - ATP GTX3071 - Forge BPV - GA - Cobb v2 FMIC - CPE EM - CPE DP - CNT CBE - APv3 - Grim EBC - PERM dual port PCV plate - Dano dual OCC - CPE CDFP - Labonte S2 WMI - ACT Street Kit - SUv2 RMM - SU TM - "Stiffy" MM - DG CF wing ext, skirts & front lip - Hotchkis RSB/FSB w PowerGrid Links - Koni FSDs - DBA SX4000 Rotors - Hawk Pads - Silver OZ Ultraleggera - 235/40/18 NT-01 |
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I believe it's only with Royal Purple, unless someone is running a different oil that I don't know about. I did try to run regular Royal Purple synthetic on accident, (grabbed the wrong bottle) and I started getting death in my pump pretty quickly. Sent from my iPhone 6 | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Considering the UOAs I get, I'll probably only run RP oil from here on out (at least in the Mazda).
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__________________ 2007 Velocity Red MS6 Go... BNR S3v2 / COBB APv3 / Snow Performance WMI + DO7 / nator'd DP / test pipe / HTP 3" SRI & TIP / 3 bar MAP / Autotech HPFP / NGK LTR7 / Stratified 3 port / Custom 3" TMIC / EGR delete / CP-E RMM / Turbine Tech FDM / CP-E RDM / Whiteline RSB / H&R springs / Powerbrake GT rotors / Endless MX72 Brakepads Parts stockpile... Wiseco 88mm's / Manley H beams Turbo stockpile... Borg Warner S200SX 7670 / GTX3071 / K04 Ex: 2007 Black Mica MS3 - stage 2 mods - 280 whp, 306 tq (321 whp / 358 tq before "stockout", on BNR S2 + meth) Ex: 2010 Velocity Red MS3 - Stage 1 mods + Meth... 260 whp, 306 tq, stock exhaust 5500 ft altitude FTL MSF in South Africa | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I was hitting around 105 IDC around 5500, I have 3* at 5/5.5/6k (past 5700rpm, logs are actually showing 0), and am now just hovering around 100-101 at max.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The deaths are entirely oil related, and have little to do with the fuel being used (worst pump I've ever seen was running pumpgas, stock internals and completely seized).
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