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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score The return line is hooked on a solenoid (no power closed). After I finish my run, I will turn off ignition, flip my solenoid on, and turn ignition back on. Fuel will dump back into my tank as I let the pump, pump. Any cons to this setup? Edit: Along the lines of the solenoid being a fire hazard? Or how hot the coil can get when energized for an extended period of time? Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away... Last edited by littleloogy; 06-04-2014 at 03:12 PM. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Well I started a new project. We are starting to test it. E-85 Cure With Fuel Additives |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks! I have been following that. I was surprised that applying the additive that way lasts so long, that's great! I would have thought it would quickly dissipate. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I was surprised as well. There also could be other reasoning as to why I am able to go so long. Either the fuel has changed at my local station and is not reacting to my fuel as it used to. Or the back death crap is in our tanks, and after over a gallon of Si-1 it has been all cleaned out. Resulting in no death in pump Time will tell. I know enki is having some of his local guys test this. We will have a better understanding after a while. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So i ran SI-1 through the tank for a while when we first started testing this additive. probably 5-6 full fill ups. went back on 91 for a few months Now im back on full E - no additive for about 4.5 full fillups thus far. I drive 60 mi a day = 300 miles a week and for the past month i have yet to see issues in logs or daily driving. i wanted to see the effects of running without any additive and when or how long till failure, then use the additive to clean and lubricate the pump my question is, Is the theory of black death coming from the tank still a vaild theory? I do know Enkei says its only a matter of time but i guess the aforementioned theory kind of makes sense in my case. fluke? luck? maybe i just jinxed myself lol
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I believe it was concluded to be due to the heating/boiling of the fuel from shutdown and it mixing with the oil. -sourced from enki's thread on e-85 testing.
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Enkei = wheel mfg Enki = me Confirmed. I boiled E in a pan (yes there was an eventual fire) and had no issues whatsoever. Add a little oil, heat it a bit more and sticky over everything.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @mazdafreak; can confirm that cpe pumps have the same issues with full E85.
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This is true..... But I do believe I was able to last a lil longer on full E on Cpe pump compared to ppl running just the autotech (internal upgrade) Been running kendell racing oil with great results (only on a 70/30 mix tho)
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score This will be going into the pump tomorrow evening after I change my oil. I'm sure the spring loaded seal will help keeps the oil and E separated. ![]() ![]() ![]() Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If this works to keep the pump cleaner than with the chemical method, then we need to find a supplier for the retaining nuts.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score APR replaces these with their own retaining nut. I need to call them and see if they are willing to sell them to us. Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away... |
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That might change their mind.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Holy shit... Fun times ![]() This looks similar as to the last time I took the pump apart. Again, very soft death. Feels like fresh boogers. Here is the assembly of the audi/vw fastener. It seemed to install the same as our fasteners (retaining nut) ![]() ![]() ![]() I did not use Si-1 in the installation. This will test this fasteners ability to keep the oil and E85 separate. Spill valve and button valve were spotless in this run. ![]() ![]() ![]() Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm totally in for this if we can get something that works. Full e fill ups without any further thought would be a dream come true.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Here is a fuel pressure log with the new Retaining nut. Pressure seems the same, just like my stock fastener with AT's Attachment 175186 Nothing special, Just Fuel Pressure. I have been driving around a lot Today. Nothing to complain about.... Pure E85 BLISS |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I would prefer to buy them new if I can. I have seen a lot of these o-rings, in different stages of breaking down. The first one I received had a rock hard O-Ring. I am searching for the fasteners (retaining nut) now. It would be nice if we can buy them in bulk and sell them in the MSF store as a key to E85. Edit: If it works.. Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away... |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Fuck it. They were discourteous they first time I called them, They deserve it. Telling me no... Who are they? Pieces of shit only dealing with v/w's and Audi's. They are racist is what they are. Phone:—(800) 680-7921—Local Phone:—+1 (334) 502-5181—Fax:—(334) 502-5180—Address:—APR LLC, 4800 US HWY 280 West, Opelika, AL 36801 I'll give it a shot about fasteners in the morning. When they say no... Fuck em Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So, what exactly do we have to do? Make them sell us the retaining nut?
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But seeing as they haven't been given troll status yet... Probably settle for them selling us the parts (assuming it works...)
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I called. Talked to a guy named Richard in sales. Asked about what they do with their fasteners. They said "we throw them away." I then asked if they would be interested in selling the fasteners that they throw away. "We would, but there is too much of a liability, we cant sell a used part" I asked if someone would sell them on eBay to be rid of the liability "no, we don't do that. I suggested that he do it personally he said "sorry, I can't, I would loose my job." What a bunch of pussies... Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score They don't sell new fasteners?
__________________ Built 5862: Shootin For The Stars 2006 Mazdaspeed6 GT Crystal White Pearl #07141 Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC VersaTuner = Versatune Clutchmasters = 850 Street Twindisk Corksport = RDM - CBE - RSB - TMM Insert Turbine Tech = Forward Diff Mount - FMM CP-e = Exhaust Manifold - Injector Seals PTE = JB 5862 JMF = Intake Manifold w/Custom PI Kozmic = Downpipe - 6th Port - EGR Delete Forge = V2 BPV Tial = 44mm WG Autotech = HPFP Internals HTP = 4" Intake - Battery Tray Bilstein = B6 Shocks w/Eibach springs Grimmspeed = EBCS Technafit = SS Brake Lines - SS Clutch Line Enkei = EVOX GSR 18x8.5 +38 - NT03+M 17x9.5 +38 Custom = FMIC w/TR1035 - Shifter Cables - Shifter Bushings |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Their fasteners are designed to work with their internals. The diameter is thicker then ours. ![]() Notice the thickness is the same for the entire length of the piston shaft. I am curious if we send in a MZR HPFP fuel pump that they can install their internals and fastener. Giving us another option for upgrading our fuel pump. Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Maybe we need Nator AL to go on a mission and do some dumpster diving. |
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Edit: At any rate, I'd rather have lower inertia on the internals and a smaller surface area for friction.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score CPE/ APR pumps have been claimed as a 40% volume improvement over stock, At's are claimed to be 50%. In either case getting apr internals would be a step backward. Besides, they fail with E as well. Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Did you tell them why you were asking about the part? Bunch of faggots |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Yes. I explained the situation before asking. He claimed nothing can be done to help us. Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away... |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Well this didn't work... Startup This morning was normal, got one block away from my dwelling and I lost pressure. I pulled over and replaced the spill valve and button valve, but it still would not build pressure. I then dumped some Si-1 in the spill valve and was finally able to build pressure. Got home and found this very familiar black sticky death shit. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() This method for controlling back and sticky death is not recommended. What's next on the drawing board??? Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score This was the Audi retaining nut right? Also, putting SI1 in the spill valve area returned normal function?
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Yes, this was the 2.0t's retaining nut. I was not running any additive in the pump, this was a test of a direct swap of the retaining nut. After I removed the solenoid I poured a couple of ML's of additive on top of the button valve. After securing the solenoid I restarted my car. Fuel pressure did not come back right away, It would go from 70psi to 600 psi then watched pressure drop back to in tank pump pressure. It would then spike back up to 1000 psi then taper down to intake pump pressure. After a 1/4 mile of this pressure came back to normal operating pressures. I also found sticky death in my check valve and on the mouth of my hard line. Wonder how much got in there. Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away... |
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