See no reason why si-1 wouldn't work with the CP-E pump also. Worst that happens is you get some sticky death, have to pull the pump and clean it. Or just inject some into the spill valve.

Unintentional testing in progress:

Work schedule went whacky for a few days and I got fed up and filled up with 93. (Corn is 16 miles from me)

Ran a half tank and dialed in my 93 tune.

Filled back up with E and ran a full tank of 50/50 (or close enough)

Now back to full corn today so we'll see how the Redline and RP like switching back and forth.

my other main issue, against going full E, is my lack of fueling headroom. I don't relish having ~ 30% of my fueling coming from a meth nozzle and I am not investing in a 5th port. My meth failsafe bit the dust back in the spring and I have not implemented a replacement solution as of yet. No other WMI failsafes will work with 100% meth so I am looking at the AEM AFR failsafe as a replacement solution BUT I can't mount it in the aux bung on my DP because my CPE EM blocks one of them.

TL;DR its like 15 steps to get there for god's sake.

My meth failed at the track; 24 psi and 14 AFR. No knock, just a loss of power.

Been there, done that. I've went between e85-50/50-93-e33-93-e85-50/50-93 and now i'm running an e25 mix. Haven't had one problem.

Ok so I been reading about e85 for some hours and this is my very first comment/post here in the forum ever since I joined. I recently became passionate about going full e85 ever since I watched the documentary film "Pump" on the Netflix and pretty much decided to give my big middle finger to the corrupted government and the oil companies. If you haven't seen it I highly recommend ya'll to watch it. You'll be surprised to see what you can learn. Anyways, I'm trying to understand and write down the steps and necessary parts to go full e85 and here is what I have so far.

1) AP, 2) HPFP, 3) Change my oil to RP dexos spec. 4) Clean out HPFP and the spill valve with S-1 fuel system treatment. 4) Get a tune or self-tune(although I know nothing about it but I'm willing to read and learn. Please guide me to right direction).

Is there anything else that I should add to the list? I thank you in advance and I hope to get positive feedback.

Hard to believe that the SI-1 protects the HPFP in the long run. It is a great cleaner but with the amount of fuel running through it, I don't see it "sticking around." What is more likely happening is that oil manufacturers (along with fuel manufacturers) are creating products that are more compatible with each other as the use of ethanol is common and the tight tolerances of DI engines are used by all OEMs.

This is supported by the Dexos1 specification (http://www.hankgraffbgc.com/Dexos1.pdf) - improved oxidation and reduced volatility.

Is there any data on foregoing the SI-1 cleaning, changing to a Dexos1 oil and then after a couple of oil changes switching to full E85?

Cleaning the HPFP of old oil deposits is not a bad idea - but some are reluctant to pull the pump and the risk of flexing the hard line causing a possible leak down the road is always there.

Yes, if memory serves. Pretty sure I've posted in my EFR thread about this too.

I was running RP for a while, and cut over and had issues after a short period of time. Cleaned out with Redline, primed with Redline, and it took a very, very long time to have the occasional intermittent issue again (which was fixed by simply re-priming with redline).

I've been wondering about this myself. Going on a year since my original S-1 "treatment". Did it again a few K miles later buts been thousands more since I recleaned. Was too content with full corn to give it much more than a thought thought, but I wondered how much , if any, S-1 is still actually in my pump.

Full E85 Redline S-1 Cure steps/results.
 

@Lex; if someone wants to send me their extra Autotech internals I would be more then willing to test that. I have been skeptical about the results of this treatment also, almost like it was too good to be true. Only one way to find out.


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If you look at the pump design, there shouldn't be a whole lot of fuel actually moving through the internals area of the pump; there's only a vent in the collar so that fluids behind the piston can move to next to it, and would then go right back to where it was on stroke.

Would it dilute over time? Certainly.

Is it possible that you only need a very small amount of redline present to prevent issues? Plausible.

I could probably pull a sample from my pump and see how clear/pink it is compared to regular corn/meth.

HEY GUYS! So its been one month and 18 days now on 100% E85 tune using this S1 and RP oil method and I have to say.... Not bad I have not noticed any issues at all, car is running strong and healthy! I haven't opened my spill valve yet to see if I need to inject S1 for gunk, but I don't see why I would have to so soon.... Its only been a month and few days so ill give it till my next oil change to open it up and check it out. I will post when that time comes around! Has anyone else tried this? I would like to hear your stories running full E85! :headbang:

@SPEEDO90; that's great man! Hope you have as much success as everyone else. Keep us posted!


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On a separate subject if I may chime in here, I have been having really bad oil consumption and I think its the oil not draining out of my turbo fast enough and I wonder if it is because I am running T6 which is 15-40, maybe If i switch back to an oil that is 5w-30 it will drain better and ill stop hemorrhaging oil and burning it in my exhaust.

I come to this conclusion while reading all of this about oil, and I run T6 because the forums said to .... but I am wondering now if that is why my couch is getting fucked so badly, I put in a quart of oil like every other gas tank.

Have you been using the wrong T6? I can't get it where I live but from reading the forums I'm pretty sure everyone runs the 5w40 version. Don't know anyone running a 15w oil

Amazon.com: Shell Rotella (550019921) T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic, Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil (CJ-4) - 1 Gallon: Automotive

I hope if i switch to 5w- 30 my issues will go away
shit might already be ruined though.

I dont know how I ended up with 15-40

EDIT: wait wtf ..... I look at my amazon history and all I have been buying is 5w-40 why the fuck do I have 15w-40, i don't have 15 in my purchase history.

Isn't it called SI-1? I only found Redline SI-1 (60103), is that the correct one or are they different?

Regarding the Oil: Would Mobil 1 ESP 0W-40 (151496) be good too? Someone tried that?

It even has dexos2 approval (instead of dexos1). Royal Purple isn't an option around here (Europe).

yes it is si-1 not s-1. As far as oil, I belive only RP has been tested successful so far but that doesn't stop you from trying some other dexos spec oil.

Shell Helix Ultra is the oil I wanted to test originally, as it's also Dexos spec.

I'm first gonna test one of the LiquiMoly additives: 3720, 5108 or 5110 and give you guys feedback.

Would be a more viable option here, i had to order the SI-1 from the US and A, and it took almost two weeks (and it cost me 30$ :grumpy:)

Fortunately for you, I still have 90% of my first bottle so it should last you a long ass time.

^This....no reason you should need more than 1 bottle.

I've been running 100% corn now for over a year with SI-1 and Valvoline VR1.

My car starts/drives about 1-2 times a week so I wouldn't know about the daily driving aspect.

40+ PSI 6466.

No black death, or signs of it. I do however clean/add more SI-1 when I do oil changes.

Said this a little too soon.

Started my car last week and it idle'd for about 5 seconds or so and die. Noticeable pressure drop from the HPFP. Going to rip it apart this weekend and see what the deal is.

Try this first:

Remove spill valve, squirt redline into main chamber (via visible big hole in spill valve area). Drain excess from spill valve area. Repeat until you're only getting redline (2-3 times).
Fill spill valve area to lowest thread with redline, reassemble.
Start car, wait a second or so and blip throttle. Should be good as new.

will do. Ill respond once I complete. probably Saturday.

I was on my way to drop my son off at school and my pump seized. I pulled over, grabbed my redline, opened the spill valve, sucked out some fuel and squirted 3ml of si-1 into my spill valve. I floored the gas and clutch and turned the car over without firing the car. It took a bit but eventually it loosened up and I was able to build pressure again.

Some Si1 into my spill valve cleared her throat.

Fantastic news, and an easy fix. Good to have someone back me on this.

This was on your IE internals that have worked flawlessly since installation?

Do your stations out there switch to E70 for the winter? I know ours do and we have. I wonder if that could contribute to your trouble happening after all this time.

No, this was on autotech internals while I was still running pennzoil ultra. My IE internals are still working flawlessly.

This will be my first winter on the internals, maybe they will start to stick. We will have to find out.

Nah even with the Redline prep done properly, over time it will thin out in the pump and you'll get sticky again. Fortunately, the fix is as easy as pulling the spill valve and giving the pump a little flush with Redline.

since this related to the AT internals I would agree. I was just concerned that the IE internals were having issues but loogy corrected me on that.

so it would seem, for now, that the IEs remain the best option for our platform on E85.

There's not much point of e85 without port injection though, right? I run out of IDC on E25.

Maybe...
>_>
<_<
Not?
Hehehehe

I just want to know if the IE internals are really worth anything to anyone on an otherwise stock fueling system. I don't understand the tuning/chemistry behind it all.

Is it possible to at least achieve the same amount of power/tq on E85 as E25 with just the IE internal upgrade? Besides the hit on fuel economy it would be nice to fill up with E85 instead of mixing.

Not on big turbo it isn't...yet. Pretty much limited to high K04 numbers on bt and full corn.

True. I wanted to work up to 5050 w o trouble so am interested in the success of these internals. Once you add PI sky is the limit if they hold up.

Tappin

Just dropping to 50/50 gets you a ton of headroom, and if the new injectors pan out...well...Good times to be had by all.

Just saw that API SN has compatibility with E85: API SN Engine Oil Category - oilspecifications.org

Will see if i find an oil with DEXOS1/2 AND API SN specs, as i see it...oil is our biggest concern while running E85.

Just saw that API SN has compatibility with E85: API SN Engine Oil Category - oilspecifications.org

Will see if i find an oil with DEXOS1/2 AND API SN specs, as i see it...oil is our biggest concern while running E85.

I just did this reline si-1 hpfp cleaning and now im having some cut out issues at light throttle. i went full e85 a week ago and have been running first draft freektune map for e85. did a compression test yesterday and all cylinders were very consistant in the mid 170's. cant find any leaks. i did prime the pump after doing the treatment by clutch and gas to the floor while cranking to build hpfp pressure. my idle fp is in the 400's warm, 1600's-1700's cruising. i get .35 knock once in a while but thats it. the car is sputtering when i give it some boost but drives fine out of boost. any ideas or help you can give me guys?

i did take a log of this while driving around the block, and one at idle ...if it would help diagnose the issue

What oil are you running?


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RP 5w-30 dexos1

How long have you been running it?

changed oil to RP and installed BSD on sunday, filled up with E85 and loaded map on monday. car was running ok with maybe a small cutout under heavy boost durring logs. took apart hpfp today and did the si-1 treatment per the guidence in the beginning of this thread, reprimed pump and took for a test run ....getting shuttering/chugging durring light boost. no leaks/good compression/no cel

log #1 is a drive around the block
log #2 is idle

Sorry for all the logging parameters, just wanted to cover all bases.

You need more than one oil change to get distance between your engine and the deaths. How much oil do you think was left over after the change? That shit sticks to everything.

Reduce to 50/50 mix or go back to your old tune/mix until after next oil change at least.

Not sure I understand the question. If you're asking about remnants of the old oil...I'd say barely any since I did the bsd the previous day and cleaned out the oil pan. I still have 3/4 tank of e85 , so I guess I'll wait till half a tank and top off with 93. Did you see anything bad in my logs? Any other advice? Thanks man

Looks like throttle/load mapping issue to me. Pedal is constant but throttle plate dips harshly. This could also be traction control.

Edit: Your issue has little to nothing to do with the point of this thread; I recommend you make a new one for actual troubleshooting.

Think i found the issue...had a sparkplug with crack ceramic. hopefully that is the problem and fixes it.

Yep, that'll do it.

Updates, I guess. Still going strong on the S1. Who knows how many miles, but since the closest pump to me is 16 miles now I have been going Full E85, 50/50, back and forth still no issues.

Definitely convinced now that the Honey Badger is the Royal Purple and that the S1 just cleaned it out initially. Starting to get complacent with the full corn K04 though...

hey guys just read through this thread, awesome info, just curious what kind of power numbers yall were getting with full bolt on e85 k04

this was my best pull with fully bolted K04/E85 54* ambient temp

Was it full e85..?

yes

Not the correct place for that question.

So Pennzoil and SI-1 is a no go?

Yes I believe this is correct. you have to use a Dexos rated oil and the last time I looked Penz Plat was not. I used to run it and switched over to RP Dexos

Best way to know for sure: Test it and let us know (might take a couple oil changes to get whatever you have in there now out fully).

ahem. Oreilly auto near me.(phone turned photo sideways.)

Can confirm. dexos1 Brands

Just took this photo a minute ago of the box next to my desk.
Attachment 225677

I'm not disputing any of your findings on this subject, just saying PennzPlat is dexos1 and I swear it has been for a while.

I'm going to shut up now and let you good folks science me, as usual. :notworthy:

$9 a qt? Fuck that. Go to walmart.

I know you were not disputing my findings. Just adding to it.

Test it and let us know how it goes.

No, really. Do it.

that is def new...at least as of 6 months ago. give it a try. RP is spensive.

Might be giving this a try. I've been running pennzoil platnium for about 2 years now. My internals are coming in this week I hope and will be doing the sl1 treatment with this oils so hopefully works out for me.

Sadly I am not full e85. just a little e85 mixed in.
I just like to read posts and try to help out when I can.

I am probably never going to go full E85, but wonder if at least using the Redline treatment on the spill valve would be good for a car running a 30% mix? I have never ran it yet, getting ready to try it out soon, and I already run a Dexos 1 oil.

not needed.

on a 4/8 gallon mix, E35, no oil or Si-1 additions are needed. I believe problems with the CDFP tend to arise approaching a 50% concentration of E.

I am running a E40ish, 5/7 mix, without issue and have been for over a year, but want to go to 50% so switched to RP. Going to try and not use Si-1 at all.

So bottom line you don't need to do a thing with oil and if you want piece of mind you can throw some Si-1 into the spill valve but likely not necessary to maintain pressure.

That is what I figured, but I thought it a good idea to ask. Thanks.

e85
 

Can I run my standard tune with a e50 mix in the tank

No.

Yes, you can actually.

Just let us know how long it takes for your car to fuck up afterwards. Because it will happen doing something stupid like that.

Issues with the hardware fix came up, bumping this for any new searchers.

Just shy of 30k miles and 2.5 years and no sticking issues, and not a single cold start issue since moving to VA. It's not E-85 supply specific as I have used 6-7 different stations in 3 different states.

Car has seen <1k of 93 spread out over that time when E85 pumps have been down and I was lazy during that week and on the gas light.

Redline S1 cleans existing black death, RP Dexxos spec prevents further death. We win.

Raising the dead here...

I ran e30 from 2012 until around a year ago, took around 4 years/40k miles with Rotella t6 for black death to build up and cause a loss of pressure. I switched to RP dexos1, cleaned and lubed the pump and spill valve with redline and stayed on e30 for 2 oil more changes with RP. Both oil changes I did the redline cleaning just to be overkill about it, and had my RV get stuck open. So I replaced the RV, cleaned the pump again and switched to e85. This semester I had to drive 80 miles a day going to class and back home 4 days a week so my car got plenty of miles on it and went through a lot of tanks of e85 and now my RV problem is back(I think, problems detailed below).

My idle FP bounces from 70~90 psi and the car is a bitch to get started, but I'll get it to idle after like 30 minutes of cranking and watching it rev up to cold idle(~2200 rpm) and dying immediately. Also when it does hold idle the rpms drop when I blip the throttle. I've tried injecting redline through the spill valve and took the pump back off, disassembled it, soaked all parts in redline again(there was no build up at all on them when removed), and verified I reassembled it right by following the rallysportdirect instructions and the OP and torqued the internals down with a torque wrench. I can't decide if my problem is the ITFP or RV but I'm suspecting the RV, so any ideas of what to check or what tests I can do would be awesome. I'm also wondering if anything could be helped by soaking the RV in redline and cleaning it cuz I'm trying to save money to get an awd subframe for my civic I picked up a few weeks ago(couldn't say no to a $100 Honda that runs and drives but I can't go back to fwd after having awd this long lol) plus I gotta pay tuition soon so I can't just buy a pump and RV right now but with my luck I need both.

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That sounds like a stuck RV if not a combo of things. Doesn't seem like the ITFP because you would not get any fuel up to the HPFP if it was dead.

Try slowly increasing throttle and then giving it a quick blip. Watch FP to see if it slowly builds as you lightly increase throttle and then plummets when you jab the throttle. This is what mine did back in the day when my RV died. If you bought a used RV there is a good chance it was already shot.

The RV I put in was new. I'll try that when I get back home later today though

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