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MazdaSpeed 3/6 - E85 Fueling Learn more about feeding your car corn


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 Old 03-29-2015, 04:32 AM   #1
 
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Default Full E85 Redline SI-1 Cure steps/results.

For those that didn't want to dig through 19 pages of the E-85 Cure With Fuel Additives thread, E-85 Cure With Fuel Additives.

@littleloogy; noticed some interesting info/statements/chemical notes on a bottle of Redline S-1 fuel treatment that made it look like a promising black death prevention/treatment/cure. Sure enough he was correct and when combined with Royal Purple Dexos Spec motor oil, several folks have been running it successfully, myself included. Following are the steps necessary to fill your life with S-1 protection goodness. If you aren't familiar with the whys/hows of swapping HPFP internals, see here

Why THE OFFICIAL HPFP CDFP FUEL PUMP THREAD

How How-to: Install your Autotech fuel pump internals

First, change your oil over to Royal Purple, very specifically the Dexos Spec oil. This stuff:



If you use regular, non dexos royal purple, you're gonna have a bad time.


Next, use the S-1 to clean, lube all parts of the HPFP internals. These :



Then assembled as directed in the install instructions. After Everything is assembled on the workbench, set entire spring/piston assembly in a container of S-1 while you attend to the SV (spill valve) See here :



Remove your spill valve from the HPFP housing with a 32mm wrench, being careful not to dump out the spring and button.



Clean valve, button and spring with S-1, then also soak in a container of S-1.




If you're a num num like me who forgot about the button and spring the very first time he pulled it and dumps it out on the floor, this is how it's reassembled.



Lastly, set your now empty HPFP housing on a thick layer of wipes, towels etc. And fill the empty cavity where your internal will be going fill S-1. Give it a minute to seep into every crevice throughout the HPFP.




Reassemble everything according to the instruction page. Reinstall in your zoom zoom.


Disclaimer, S-1 is some l00btastic shit. I recommend a good supply of gloves that you can keep swapping out to maintain cleanliness and your grip on small peens...err....parts.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpeg SpillValveS1Bath.jpeg (146.1 KB, 1384 views)
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 Old 03-29-2015, 08:34 PM   #2
 
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One treatment? Or is there a regiment I should follow? I'm still at the part where often injections of S-1 into the SV are required.
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 Old 03-29-2015, 08:57 PM   #3
 
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@someguyondrugs; That's for different oils. I did my pump with this method many, many moons ago and successfully cut over to full E85 with zero issues (currently).

Also, @MSP6; you should probably update your button valve pic to not use my aftermarket spring picture as it may cause confusion since that spring pictured looks *nothing* like what's actually in there.
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 Old 03-29-2015, 10:08 PM   #4
 
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ahh, too bad I still have a few changes worth of t6 sitting in the garage...Maybe I'll just put that in the Honda...
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 Old 03-29-2015, 10:19 PM   #5
 
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also, is there a preferred filter for a full e85 setup?...or just whats already been covered..
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 Old 03-29-2015, 10:25 PM   #6
 
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I've had good luck with Wix, personally, but it probably doesn't matter too much so long as you use a good one.
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 Old 03-29-2015, 11:02 PM   #7
 
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So I'm not sure why it would matter but figured I would ask.

Even after this oil starts to break down through it's life cycle, it will still prevent the goop? Or is there a certain mileage you can assure this is good for (but 3k for someone could be completely different with how hard someone else drives their vehicle for 3k miles.)
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 Old 03-29-2015, 11:33 PM   #8
 
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Truth is, we don't know how long it will last yet. Loogy broke down and dismantled his pump after 5k miles and it was still fine; even if it gives up after that long, I'd wager you could just pull residual fuel/oil out of the internals area via the spill valve and refill with Redline and be good for another xxxx miles.
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 Old 03-30-2015, 03:29 AM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by Enki View Post
[MENTION=22196]
you should probably update your button valve pic to not use my aftermarket spring picture as it may cause confusion since that spring pictured looks *nothing* like what's actually in there.
Hm, you may be right. I just wanted something showing that the/spring was seated in it but someone may see it and miss the difference. I'll get it switched.

Originally Posted by someguyondrugs View Post
also, is there a preferred filter for a full e85 setup?...or just whats already been covered..
AFAIK there hasn't been any filter discussion?

Also, the SV "treatments" where you routinely add the S-1 has not been necessary.

Originally Posted by He Hate Me View Post
So I'm not sure why it would matter but figured I would ask.

Even after this oil starts to break down through it's life cycle, it will still prevent the goop? Or is there a certain mileage you can assure this is good for (but 3k for someone could be completely different with how hard someone else drives their vehicle for 3k miles.)
I don't abuse my car, but I am also not super easy on it either. Short bursts of WOT on most drives. Some full 4th logs per week to monitor fp etc. I'd say I was your typical speed 3 dd'er more or less.
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 Old 04-01-2015, 12:26 AM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by MSP6 View Post


AFAIK there hasn't been any filter discussion?

Also, the SV "treatments" where you routinely add the S-1 has not been necessary.
I only bring it up because as soon as someone talks oil...filter seems to be the next subject...and I was curious.


Oil change is not that far away...full corn is very tempting.
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 Old 04-01-2015, 04:05 AM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by someguyondrugs View Post
I only bring it up because as soon as someone talks oil...filter seems to be the next subject...and I was curious.


Oil change is not that far away...full corn is very tempting.
Napa Gold/Wix are the only ones I use, never had any problem when I was on full corn.
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 Old 04-25-2015, 12:27 PM   #12
 
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Changed my oil at around 7k miles. Fresh RP dexos goodness.

7,500 miles on full corn, still zero death/sticky/fp issues.

I did harpoon my right rear shock mount however so car will be down for a day or two. Luckily Autozone actually has a mount in stock. $30 compared to $19 on Rock auto but , meh.
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 Old 04-30-2015, 06:48 PM   #13
 
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Who are you guys having tune you on full e85? Just curious. @Enki;
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 Old 04-30-2015, 06:52 PM   #14
 
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Self tuned.
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 Old 04-30-2015, 07:02 PM   #15
 
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Ok my problem is I don't know how to "self tune" and I don't think any of the reputable tuners will tune me on 100% e85 ): @Enki;
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 Old 04-30-2015, 07:35 PM   #16
 
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Why wouldn't they? It's largely no different than tuning a mix.
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 Old 04-30-2015, 07:40 PM   #17
 
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I don't know lol I'm freektuned right now, I will ask him about it.
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 Old 05-01-2015, 01:39 AM   #18
 
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Technically e85 is still a mix... Everyone running 100% ethanol is not for this thread lol
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 Old 05-01-2015, 02:04 AM   #19
 
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Has there been any breakthrough with protecting our fuel level senders from being corroded from the corn? That's one of the things holding me back from switching to 100%
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 Old 05-01-2015, 05:09 AM   #20
 
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Originally Posted by Kor3y101 View Post
Has there been any breakthrough with protecting our fuel level senders from being corroded from the corn? That's one of the things holding me back from switching to 100%
GenWin....NFG about fuel level issues....

Originally Posted by justinjenkins View Post
Ok my problem is I don't know how to "self tune" and I don't think any of the reputable tuners will tune me on 100% e85 ): @Enki;
Also self tuned...

Why wouldn't they tune you on E85?....they'll tune you for whatever you have. Shit if you tell them you have to drive 5 hours and blow 3 different vice principals to get E they'll still tune you for it if you have it in tank...
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 Old 05-01-2015, 08:41 AM   #21
 
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just making sure Im understanding this.....I get the pump treatment (one tim ething) with the redline. Obviously switching over to the dextos oil is a must. Are you still having to add SI-1 to the tank every fill up, or just treat the pump the one time?
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 Old 05-01-2015, 09:09 AM   #22
 
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Originally Posted by hatchedspeed3 View Post
just making sure Im understanding this.....I get the pump treatment (one tim ething) with the redline. Obviously switching over to the dextos oil is a must. Are you still having to add SI-1 to the tank every fill up, or just treat the pump the one time?
(flame suit on)
Just treating the pump once, no need to use a bottle to each tank.
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 Old 05-01-2015, 09:17 AM   #23
 
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fantastic. I will definately be going full corn when it comes time to retune for bt. Awesome thread @MSP6; @Raider; sticky maybe??
@kbz0129; you need to do this
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 Old 05-01-2015, 09:17 AM   #24
 
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I've not touched my pump since cutting over to full corn; in fact, it had been months since I last touched the pump before I cut over.
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 Old 05-01-2015, 09:19 AM   #25
 
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@Enki; how often do you switch between corn and 93? Running into any issues when you do?
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 Old 05-01-2015, 09:23 AM   #26
 
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Never. There's no 93 to be had here even if I did. Before running full corn, I was on e29, and I've not been on a mix lower than that for probably 3-5 years.
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 Old 05-01-2015, 09:25 AM   #27
 
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ah gotcha. So I take it there havent been many issues with the fuel lines and what not being affected by full corn (other than fuel level senders)?
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 Old 05-01-2015, 09:28 AM   #28
 
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@phate; did a test some time back with both e85 and methanol using pieces of fuel line and orings and whatnot and ran into zero issues, if memory serves.
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 Old 05-01-2015, 09:30 AM   #29
 
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I didnt really see it being an issue, just figured I ask. I would be switching over right now, but there is no point getting a tune, only to retune for bt in a few months. If only I could self tune....lol
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 Old 05-01-2015, 09:44 AM   #30
 
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Originally Posted by hatchedspeed3 View Post
@Enki; how often do you switch between corn and 93? Running into any issues when you do?
I have went back to 93 after being full e85. Was e85 for about 5000 miles, then went to a 50/50 mix for one tank & put a bottle of si-1 in then. Then drove until completely empty, and filled up with 93. Haven't touched the pump, haven't had any problems either. Still on RP dexos (I know I need to go back to rotella, but I think the fact that I haven't went back, may be the reason I'm not having any problems with the HPFP on straight 93 after being full e85).

I'm going to do a few more tanks on pump, then fill up e85 again, without touching the HPFP, or adding any SI-1.

Originally Posted by hatchedspeed3 View Post
I didnt really see it being an issue, just figured I ask. I would be switching over right now, but there is no point getting a tune, only to retune for bt in a few months. If only I could self tune....lol
Trust me, you can self tune, anyone can. ATR looks very intimidating, but once you start breaking it down, things will come together. Start with a MAF CAL, and work your way up from there. That's how I did it. One thing at a time.
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 Old 05-01-2015, 10:00 AM   #31
 
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Not sure why you'd go back to Rotella unless cost is an issue...Even then, Blackstone is telling me to change my oil every 8k (which is like a year for me).
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 Old 05-01-2015, 10:18 AM   #32
 
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Originally Posted by Enki View Post
Not sure why you'd go back to Rotella unless cost is an issue...Even then, Blackstone is telling me to change my oil every 8k (which is like a year for me).
isnt 8k kinda far in between oil changes?
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 Old 05-01-2015, 10:49 AM   #33
 
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Apparently not. 6k on my last one came back really good, better than most other MS3s according to blackstone.
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 Old 05-01-2015, 10:52 AM   #34
 
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that's ridiculous. I think I'd be too paranoid to wait that long. I change mine every 3k. Does the dextos have something to do with extending the oil life/prevent it from breaking down as fast?
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 Old 05-01-2015, 10:59 AM   #35
 
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My last oil change was 6k and 8 months.
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 Old 05-01-2015, 11:04 AM   #36
 
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Originally Posted by Enki View Post
Not sure why you'd go back to Rotella unless cost is an issue...Even then, Blackstone is telling me to change my oil every 8k (which is like a year for me).
I thought I remember reading with our cars, RP didn't "work" very well, at least not as well as Rotella. Thought UOA's came back looking pretty crappy? Maybe I'm thinking of something else.

I haven't changed it in over 6k miles now. I have a UOA kit at home here, I think I'm going to go to 7500 and change it out, send in a sample, and see how it is. I'll probably forget to get the sample when I'm changing it though.
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 Old 05-01-2015, 11:04 AM   #37
 
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Why RP Dexos spec oil, and not just any oil that meets the spec?
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 Old 05-01-2015, 11:07 AM   #38
 
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Originally Posted by hatchedspeed3 View Post
that's ridiculous. I think I'd be too paranoid to wait that long. I change mine every 3k. Does the dextos have something to do with extending the oil life/prevent it from breaking down as fast?

Dexos1 is a specification with performance improvements over GL-4 & GL-5 specifications.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1430503581.108125.jpg

Interesting thing is GL-5 spec is supposed to be better with E85 emulsion.
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 Old 05-01-2015, 11:13 AM   #39
 
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Originally Posted by silvapain View Post
Why RP Dexos spec oil, and not just any oil that meets the spec?
I am also curious about this.
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 Old 05-01-2015, 11:17 AM   #40
 
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It's the only Dexos oil I can find that isn't a 50+ mile drive to get, and the UOAs have been coming back stellar so fuck it.

Edit:
If someone tests and can confirm that another oil works as well as the RP, then we will add it to the list. That test should include several changes worth of UOA though.
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