Thx for the response, @Enki. Honestly, I'm not sure what's different. I run a 50/50 mix (currently E40 in my area, based on the %E/volume in my region of E85 currently).

When I installed my internals, I did lubricate them with Mobil 1 synthetic that was laying around. Also, I think I'm on "Mazda" synthetic oil--whatever the dealer uses. I got a year's worth of oil changes and they still owe me one, so I'll bring Pennzoil Platinum with me next time.

A while back, I broke the connector of my spill valve solenoid. An MSFer in the area sold me his Spill Valve Solenoid (with the integrated connector on top) really cheap. He said it only had 30k on it. I never disassembled and cleaned it before installing it, though. I broke the original off when doing my internals, and was anxious to just get the car up an running, as it was several days later...

Finally, I didn't get ~60 idle fuel pressure until two really cold starts. The temperature seems to be a catalyst (or coincidence, I guess...) BTW, it's not sticking now, but I'm very gun shy until this weekend when I tear down and clean out the spill valve. I guess it's just intermittently sticking at this point (according to the AP, anyways).

Any of these clues help? Gosh, hopefully it's not the internals themselves! They're virtually brand new, though, and I did a meticulous install.

Honestly, it could be the internals taking a second to break free from their current position due to extra friction. My car (when it ran at all) on full e85 would do this starting in the cold as well.

As for breaking the clip...
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ve-sst-105441/

In my experience, if I was running E45-E50 where my spill valve started to stick, I could simply top off my tank with a few gal of 93 to drop below E40 and my spill valve would unstick within ~10-20 miles of driving.

Then I decided to stop running over ~E40ish, and I haven't pulled by spill valve in over a year..

Hmmmm.... You know, perhaps all of the woes I've been having have been because I've been using E85 with 87 instead of 91 or 93...

I keep seeing posts mentioning cleaning the spill valve with 91... or running some 93 in the tank to clear things out. Maybe the 87 is part of the problem and isn't as effective in preventing sticking?

Just a thought...

I think it was @Bucker who said he mixed 87 with E85. I figured, if it was good enough for him, it was good enough for me.

I'll pull and clean my spill valve Sunday to see what happens. If it's still sticking, I'll switch to straight 93 to see if that helps clean things out. If not, I may do a whole pump teardown and then formulate an E30 mix, switch my FSC and Scalar and see if that prevents future recurrence.

We all mention 93 because that's the octane rating of the pump gas we use, not because it's better at I sticking the valve than 87. Still, the point of adding Ethanol is increasing octane; you're being counterproductive by mixing it with crap gas.


Tapadatass

But the point of the ethanol in our DISI engines (in terms of octane) is *functional octane*, not actual octane, right? Even though my mix may net about 96 actual octane overall (with the 105-110 actual octane of E85), the functional octane in 2.3 MZR DISI applications is ~160. And isn't this because of the application-specific physics that come into play when ethanol mixes are directly injected into the combustion chamber?

~160 functional octane--in other words, WAY more than is necessary to get to MBT and not have even the slightest fear of pre-detonation based KR. In fact, isn't it so effective that we can go way past MBT and still not get pre-detonation because the functional octane rating of ethanol in our engines is so high?

That's kind of the wild card that makes E85 mixes so awesome in our engines. The downside, of course, is what I'm experiencing right now...

The reason that I run E40 is primarily because of functional octane rating, and secondarily for the cooling effect. The cooling effect increases with the more % ethanol you run--basically, the higher the percentage, the better the effect. But regarding octane, I'm after the functional rating, not the actual. It's the functional rating that matters in how our engines operate. Actual octane rating applies to test tubes/theory/etc. I'm not sure of functional octane per E20, E30, E40, etc., but I've seen numerous times that even E25 or so is way more than enough to be able to reach MBT with ease. I go to E40 to have extra cooling. I stay at E40 (not going higher) to, ironically, avoid the issues I'm now having.

Also, I'm into saving money, especially with the increased fueling necessary with E blends. That's the primary reason I've mixed with 87. I get super high functional octane (WAAAYYYY more than I'd ever need--I have the logs to prove it), and I save some money.

What kind of oil do you run? Penn Platinum?

I have been running Walmart SuperTech 5w-30 synthetic since the first oil change.

However, I am planning on trying out Rotella T6 for my next oil change.

Now you wouldn't be trying to play a prank on me, would you? Yeah right! :P

Actually, I was simply being factual...

I am considering going to something more viscous on the next change since I am now making fairly high power and wanted a little more wear protection...

The T6 is 5w-40, which is approximately 50% higher viscosity at operating temp.

No kidding?! Well, I'm just surprised because I haven't heard of people running what I thought is a Wal-Mart brand oil. And T6 supposedly interacts with our fuel systems gumming things up, I thought. I may be confusing my oils.

I've heard nothing but good about Pennzoil Platinum, so I'll probably try that next.

There's nothing wrong with SuperTech (or most conventionals, really). It has an API rating of SN, which is the highest available right now. I have used it for a break in oil and for the first couple thousand miles in engines. You just need to be a little more cautious with shutting things down when really hot, and they typically won't run as long of OCI. No big deal considering it's $12 for 5 quarts, lol.

Hmmm... Well, I was a little concerned about some of the things I heard about running ethanol with certain kinds of oil. I was also concerned with some of the poor shearing qualities I heard about other oils in our engines. Perhaps I'll broaden my horizons, based on what you've said.

BTW, here's the update. I disassembled my spill valve solenoid. It looked super clean, but I used a high naptha content cleaner (Zippo fluid--thanks, @Enki) and cleaned out the spill valve solenoid. I also filled the fuel pump with Zippo fluid by pouring the fluid into the cavity which is normally occupied by the spill valve. I let it sit about ten minutes, reassembled everything, and voila: problem gone.

As I reflect over what the cause for sticking may have been, I really think it was some sort of reaction with the BG44K fuel system cleaner I used. Normally, it's a miracle in many engine applications, but something about my setup (whether the ethanol, oil choice, etc.) caused some sort of reaction, I think. I just recently used it, and this sticking occurred soon afterwards. Interestingly, when I opened up the spill valve, things were immaculate. But the cleaning process did the trick. Since I'm running E40, I'm hoping this was a one-time-only thing (contingent on not using BG44K anymore). We'll see... Regardless, thanks so much for the help in fixing this, y'all :)

Need Seal holder seals for hpfp rebuild
 

I just nicked the seal/o ring in what autotech instructions call the seal holder - the threaded passthrough the new shaft fits ever so tightly in (use enough oil to keep that shit from happening - I can't fathom getting the .0000005(?) tolerance autotech shaft by the seal w/o dorking it if you try doing this dry - it cut it like a blade on mine). This thread talks about getting specs for the seal(s) is there really 2 pieces, or did mine just shear what looked like a very small o ring clean off?)- has anyone ever got a part number to order? It would suck to get ass raped for a new pump (or even the seal holder, if they are available) when I just need that pissing little seal...not to mention I now have a prolonged install and can't go hunting my nemesis audi just yet...

@ABSpeed3; @brandonf; need to do this

I know it.. i've been talking about it for a year and have been lazy.. doing it this weekend finally!

You can't order parts for the HPFP from Mazda; they treat the entire pump as one part and replace it instead of servicing it.

I believe you're talking about the small quad ring that sits inside the hat that the pump shaft slides in. I did find a suitable quad ring from McMaster-Carr. The part number and dimensions are on MSF, I not in this thread somewhere. I'd search for it myself, but I'm on my phone and searching via Tapatalk is a bitch.

90025k135 is what i have ordered in the past

Much better than an ass raping!
 

90025k135 at McMaster-Carr - got it.

Etipp98, SilvaPain, I can't thank you enough for that...it also looks to be the 'Viton' compound, which will hold up much better to harsh chemicals (and E from what I read?), but unfortunately would still squish like jelly at the hands of an ogre like myself...I'll order a hundred or so of these (min order) - let me know if you want any.

And one more thing, if someone happens to be reading this BEFORE jacking the shaft seal on the HPFP - use enough oil to thoroughly lube the shaft when you slip it in the shaft seal housing - any pecker-owner should know that. My HPFP fail (well - not a fail as much as a punk penalty delay for .03 cent part) is due to not lubing the shaft well enough (small bit on the tip wasn't enough - again, shoulda known that one). I have heard of other threads where oil residue was a concern and 'dry shafting' was performed, but that is for those with much tougher anus's than I.

This forum ROCKS!

One more thing
 

I think another contributing factor to the seal getting nicked was the fact I cleaned (and let the whole thing sit) in the (chlorine free, but rubber growth hormone) cleaner while I ran out and got me a burrito...thinking the swelling quad seals don't help a bit when refitting with a new shaft. Another bit of obvious advice - don't soak the shaft seal cap in cleaner - with the seals still inside...

Has anyone run a bottle of Techron from Chevron to clean their pumps? it is a cleaner after all...

What are your symptoms, to let you know its time to clean the spill valve?

so I have the P0091 code and the car runs like rubish.
I checked the solenoid, it works.
I checked if there is 12v coming to the solenoid, it does.
I cleaned the spill valve.

Nothing changed.....
Is the fuel pump broke ?

thanks !

What's your fuel pressure at idle?

I didn't check it, how do I do that ?
Can a OBD tool read it ?

Yes. AP, DashHawk, or any other OBD-II reader should be able to access the fuel pressure PID.

If it's ~60, the HPFP is not working. If it's in the 400-600 range or so, the HPFP is most likely working properly.

if it is, can I just swap the internals with good ones ?
the car is stock, no mods planned.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...install-76252/

Follow this to pull the pump, check to see if the pump is seized by pushing on the plunger. If it is, you can try new internals or try to clean, oil and reinstall your old ones. If you run into any major issues like you can't get the internals out of the pump, then stop and buy a new or used pump.

pump is not seized, everything looks ok :)....
what should I check next ?

Alright, so pump isn't seized, you've cleaned the spill valve, I would say check your relief valve. But, that is pretty hard to do without an AP.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...-p0091-110209/

Give that thread a look, but it looks like you have already ruled out spill valve and you have good voltage to the valve. It could be relief valve stuck open possibly.

Or if you know anyone with a speed locally that could let you borrow a known good pump. Are you throwing the code all the time? Have you tried clearing it to see if it comes back?

If I clear the code, it will come up after a couple of minutes of driving....
I'll see about the relief valve tomorow

thank you so much for your hel p!

Dead Thread Revival!

So I've done quite a bit of reading and haven't found any mention of the problem I'm now having with my MS6...

My Spill Valve is spilling a small amount of fuel out of the top of the valve itself. I would do more research to see if I can find an answer myself but since my car is leaking raw 94 octane fuel into a hot engine bay, I figured I'd better just ask before I die in a car fire.

Clean? Replace a seal? Replace internals? Replace the whole HPFP? Throw a match on it?

Any expert advice from an experienced member would be appreciated.

Clean? Yeah, try that.

Replace an o-ring that might be worn out causing fuel to leak? Yeah, try that.

Replace internals? Why?

Replace the whole HPFP? Sure, if you want to spend that much money and basically guarantee the problem to go away.

Most of the pictures in this thread appear to be dead links, so I'm not 100% sure on shit, but I think that the seal I need for inside the spill valve (I have yet to take mine apart) may be 90025k135 at McMaster-Carr...
They come in packs of 100 for $8.00usd.

So I fired off an e-mail to them earlier today (their website said they would reply within a half an hour) but I have yet to hear back from them... Is it a holiday in the U.S. today?
Anyway, with the time it is now I'll just have to call them tomorrow to sort it out.

Hoping the seal is all I need and that this spillage isn't an indication of an internally failing HPFP... We'll see when I get the replacement seal in hand. I don't want to try disassembly and cleaning until I do in case the process makes my leak worst.

McMaster is a supply company that resells many thousands of products. They will not know if your seal is correct for X car, regardless of contact method. The only thing they will be able to tell you is the specifications of the products they sell and possibly typical uses. They will not be able to tell you if it is suited for any particular use, will fit on any given car, etc etc. You need to figure that out yourself or with other enthusiasts.

That seal sounds like it is for the piston seal inside the HPFP, not for the spill valve. Interestingly people were talking about using a Viton seal but that part number is for a Buna-N seal.

Here's a guy who was selling kits: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ld-kit-206168/

Here is the post that gives most of the part numbers: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...3/#post2868855

So the excitement of risking death by fire every time I got in my car finally wore off, and the high I was getting from huffing gas fumes while driving was starting to give me headaches; not to mention the horrible shuddering hesitation below 2500 RPM's that was developing couldn't have been good for anything, especially my wallet cruising around at 3k all the time... So I bought and installed a new HPFP from the dealer, oddly enough they had the best price around. Bonus I didn't have to fuck around anymore trying to figure out part numbers for seals and rebuild parts and such to replace worn out internals...

Problems Solved.

Hi all, I am new to the forum and I'd like to start by saying thanks to all for the help that I have received in all my years as an anonymous lurker. In particular I'd like to say thanks to @silvapain and @phate for their very helpful posts on this thread.

I am experiencing the same issue that @CBlaze reported - my spill valve is leaking a bit of fuel at the very top. I had some hesitation when accelerating, this happens from time to time.

First, I suspected the O-ring that seals the spill valve from the HPFP body. I ordered a replacement from McMaster and this seemed to help the issue at first but it happened again soon enough. I have cleaned squeaky the plunger, C-clip, everything.

Now I'm suspecting the O-ring that seals between the body of the spill valve and the solenoid itself. I'd like to disassemble the solenoid and take a look there but I have been cracking my head at the split locking ring (is that the term?) that retains the solenoid. I wonder what tool/method @phate used to pry off the two halves?

You just press the solenoid into the nut, towards the split locks. It will move enough to remove the locks, then you can pull it out of the nut.

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