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 Old 11-13-2011, 05:22 PM   #1
 
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Default HOW TO: Remove & Disassemble HPFP Spill Valve

Tools:
1. 10mm socket and ratchet
2. 32mm combination wrench
3. medium-size standard (flat-head) screwdriver


Procedure:
1. Using the 10mm socket and ratchet, remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the shroud on over the TMIC and remove the shroud (if required).

2. Unplug electrical connector to the spill valve on the top of the HPFP.



3. Using the 32mm combination wrench, unscrew the spill valve from the HPFP housing.



4. Using the flat-head screwdriver, carefully pry up between the spill valve base and collar as seen below. Do this in steps, rotating the spill valve as you pry to pull the collar out evenly.





5. Carefully remove the collar, plunger, c-clip, and spring from the spill valve and clean.





Reinstallation:

For reinstallation, simply reassemble the collar, plunger, c-clip, and spring in the order it was pulled out of the spill valve, and press the collar back into the spill valve base. There is no need to press the collar all the way back in; when you screw the spill valve back into the HPFP, you will reseat the collar. Apply a bit of clean engine oil on the spill valve O-ring prior to putting the spill valve back into the HPFP. There is no need for any thread sealant, as the O-ring provides the seal.

NOTE: The electrical connector for the spill valve should be pointing straight towards the radiator when the spill valve is tightened all the way down. This can take a bit of force.
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 Old 11-13-2011, 06:53 PM   #2
 
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Thanks for this, as I have yet to break mine down and fully clean it. I'll be doing that tomorrow for sure.
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 Old 11-13-2011, 06:56 PM   #3
 
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what justifies needing to be replaced?
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 Old 11-13-2011, 06:59 PM   #4
 
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Great write up another great addition to the how to section.
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 Old 11-13-2011, 07:14 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by i8urgti View Post
what justifies needing to be replaced?
There's no replacement necessary; I have to take mine apart and clean it frequently due to going to 100% E85.
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 Old 11-13-2011, 07:24 PM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by i8urgti View Post
what justifies needing to be replaced?
If it's clean and doesn't work, it's probably a bad coil and thus would need replacing.
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 Old 11-13-2011, 07:28 PM   #7
 
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I have found that smacking it with a mini maglite with judicious aggression will free it up if it sticks.
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 Old 11-14-2011, 08:39 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by silvapain View Post
I have found that smacking it with a mini maglite with judicious aggression will free it up if it sticks.
If a lil beating doesn't work... I'd try a gas can and matches.
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 Old 11-14-2011, 08:50 AM   #9
 
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Thanks for the write-up.
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 Old 11-14-2011, 08:51 AM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by rfinkle2 View Post
Thanks for the write-up.
Glad I could copy something out of the shop manual for you.



Just messing with you Finkle.


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 Old 11-14-2011, 08:51 AM   #11
 
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if e85 causes your fuel system to gum up, can't you just run a tank of gas to disolve that shit?
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 Old 11-14-2011, 08:53 AM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by Enki View Post
If it's clean and doesn't work, it's probably a bad coil and thus would need replacing.
By the way, the spill valve solenoid coil operates at 12VDC, so you can test the solenoid by wiring it up to the battery to test. The polarity does not matter.

Thanks to @phate for that information.


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 Old 11-14-2011, 08:55 AM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by Fatguy729 View Post
if e85 causes your fuel system to gum up, can't you just run a tank of gas to disolve that shit?
I wouldn't switch back and forth. The only hydrolocked engine I've heard of due to E85 testing was the result of an injector sticking open after the guy switched back to pump gas after running E85. That may be anecdotal, but I don't want to take that chance.


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 Old 11-14-2011, 09:27 AM   #14
 
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if you are going to switch back, it would be best to do it in stages over time IMO. 100%, 75%, 50%, 25%, pump.

This way, if there ARE irregularities with fuel flow, you should have a lot of time to catch it before it becomes something serious.
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 Old 11-14-2011, 09:33 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by silvapain View Post
Glad I could copy something out of the shop manual for you.



Just messing with you Finkle.


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Is this really in the service manual? I've never seen it if it is..... i thought the service manual treated the hpfp as a "black box".
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 Old 11-14-2011, 09:44 AM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
Is this really in the service manual? I've never seen it if it is..... i thought the service manual treated the hpfp as a "black box".
The manual does treat the entire HPFP as one part. It states that if the spill valve fails, then replace the entire pump.

My comment is a joke in reference to Finkle's call out thread from the weekend.


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 Old 11-14-2011, 10:02 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by silvapain View Post
The manual does treat the entire HPFP as one part. It states that if the spill valve fails, then replace the entire pump.

My comment is a joke in reference to Finkle's call out thread from the weekend.


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 Old 11-15-2011, 09:43 PM   #18
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From way back when I first took mine apart, lol:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fx0uA...ature=youtu.be

IDK why that won't embed. It just wants to be a link, I guess.
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 Old 11-15-2011, 09:51 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by silvapain View Post
NOTE: The electrical connector for the spill valve should be pointing straight towards the radiator when the spill valve is tightened all the way down. This can take a bit of force.
You can twist the solenoid within the nut. You can take it out, as well. There is never any reason to do this, but here are some pics:
Originally Posted by phate View Post
As promised, this is the spill valve solenoid taken even further apart. This pic shows the normal position of the solenoid in the background. The foreground picture shows how it pushes out just a little bit.


That little groove in the foreground solenoid is where the split ring lock sits. The split ring lock simply keeps the solenoid from pushing back through the sleeve. You can sorta see how the two halves should sit in that groove here:


Once the two lock halves are out, you just push the solenoid back through the sleeve (towards the connector end):


And that's about it. This is the sleeve. You can see where the O-ring on the solenoid sits:


Nothing spectacular, but I thought the overall design of the spill valve and solenoid is pretty neat.

From here: E85 Discussion - HPFP lubrication and Flow issues
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 Old 11-19-2011, 09:47 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by silvapain View Post

Nice.

I was previously mis-understanding Phate's instructions, but this pic straightened me out and I cleaned mine up fully this morning as I had been having 2-3 excursions to RV lift pressure during pulls where as this used to be ~0 when targeting 1750PSI.

TBD if the issue is resolved.

Edit: On a side note, when did I go Orange?
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 Old 11-19-2011, 12:15 PM   #21
 
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@cld12pk2go (I see your plaid request was declined) .. about a week ago.

Congratulations... it is long deserved.
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 Old 11-19-2011, 10:05 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by rfinkle2 View Post
@cld12pk2go (I see your plaid request was declined) .. about a week ago.

Congratulations... it is long deserved.

Yeah, plaid would have ruled.
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 Old 11-20-2011, 11:02 AM   #23
 
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Got mine apart and didnt even need cleaning oh well. I have piece of mind atleast now.
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 Old 11-20-2011, 03:35 PM   #24
 
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Originally Posted by Etipp98 View Post
Got mine apart and didnt even need cleaning oh well. I have piece of mind atleast now.
I pull my spill valve often as it sticks due to E85. Mine never has any signs of buildup or debris.


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 Old 11-20-2011, 03:39 PM   #25
 
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what ever happened about running that inline fuel filter before the pump? i think it was phate but i havent seen anyone after him?
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 Old 11-20-2011, 03:46 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by laxplayermjd View Post
what ever happened about running that inline fuel filter before the pump? i think it was phate but i havent seen anyone after him?
It hasn't been effective. @silvapain and I spoke about this briefly over the weekend, and we agree that it is likely the O-Ring in the 18mm nut that holds the internals. That's the O-Ring that seals the internals main piston shaft.

If you look at glorifiedbozo's thread, he hasn't had a single issue - so I think it's simply the condition of the O-Ring before we ever make the switch. The buildup was shown in a mass spec reading to contain oil additives...which have to come from oil...since the fuel system only has gas/E85, lol. I've seen straight gas cars with some black residue, but it is so easily dissolved in gas that it doesn't cause a problem. The Ethanol does not dissolve it as easily, hence the problem.
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 Old 11-20-2011, 03:47 PM   #27
 
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I have never run an inline filter on E85 FWIW.

Like @phate said, we believe it's oil seeping past the O-ring that goes around the pump piston. It's only building up on E85 because oil isn't miscible in alcohol.

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 Old 11-21-2011, 01:06 AM   #28
 
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There's two orings, and I doubt any of it is leaking past; if anything, fuel is pushing the oil out. I'm willing to bet that the residue is from coating the internals with oil before assembly; then again it is 2 am and my head is spinning.
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 Old 11-21-2011, 08:19 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Enki View Post
There's two orings, and I doubt any of it is leaking past; if anything, fuel is pushing the oil out. I'm willing to bet that the residue is from coating the internals with oil before assembly; then again it is 2 am and my head is spinning.
No, I have reassembled my internals NUMEROUS times without oil (totally dry) and I still get the problem.
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 Old 11-21-2011, 02:43 PM   #30
 
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if you guys think its the o ring, wouldnt it continue to happen over and over?
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 Old 11-21-2011, 05:35 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by laxplayermjd View Post
if you guys think its the o ring, wouldnt it continue to happen over and over?
It does happen over and over, lol. I still deal with it.

I talked to Mazdaspeed Motorsports today, and they cannot get just the O-Ring or just the 18mm nut with the O-Ring in it. So it's a $300 venture to get a complete stock pump and test a brand new O-Ring. I'm willing to bet it would fix it, though.
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 Old 11-21-2011, 06:29 PM   #32
 
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There's got to be a source for a similar oring for what we need.
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 Old 11-21-2011, 07:12 PM   #33
 
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i should be able to find one, im a tech so i have lots of spare o rings, ill just have to wait till xmas so ill have a spare stock pump i can take apart then search. If i find one that fits itll be easy as cake to order
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 Old 11-21-2011, 07:33 PM   #34
 
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Lax, when Phate sends me his spare nut, I'll try to coax a ring out of mine with a pick or something and mic everything (including the piston/nut) to get you the info you need.
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 Old 11-21-2011, 09:07 PM   #35
 
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was bored, took mine apart and cleaned it....everything was coated in a black soot like material. 81k miles on the odometer, never cleaned. just tossing that out there.

also, only took about 20 minutes from wrenching off to back on. that included some texts and facebooking and checking this to see how it went back together
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 Old 11-21-2011, 09:27 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by jroc View Post
was bored, took mine apart and cleaned it....everything was coated in a black soot like material. 81k miles on the odometer, never cleaned. just tossing that out there.

also, only took about 20 minutes from wrenching off to back on. that included some texts and facebooking and checking this to see how it went back together
Are you running ethanol? I can't keep track anymore, haha.
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 Old 11-21-2011, 10:25 PM   #37
 
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He's on 91, but looking to go to corn.
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 Old 11-22-2011, 04:27 AM   #38
 
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Originally Posted by Enki View Post
Lax, when Phate sends me his spare nut, I'll try to coax a ring out of mine with a pick or something and mic everything (including the piston/nut) to get you the info you need.
It comes out very easily with a jewelers screwdriver. I've pulled mine out before to inspect it.

It's not a normal toroidal O-ring. The edges are flattened, where the cross-section is square not circular.


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 Old 11-22-2011, 06:09 AM   #39
 
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Maybe you guys know of this place, maybe not:

Everything under the sun here (should have different material o-rings etc.)

McMaster-Carr

good service, pricing, and will allow you to order industrial supplies in low (e.g. 1) quantities.
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 Old 11-22-2011, 06:12 AM   #40
 
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I'm a hooker for McMaster-Carr. Best online catalog software I've ever seen.


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