IE HPFP Internals For E85

[Cheapspeed]

Pb blaster sucks use liquid wrench penetrating oil it's better.

[Easter Bunny]

Originally Posted by littleloogy PB blaster. Good sir I was using a 6 point. Low profile piece of shit. I took this kit back after it failed. And got store credit and this as @Easter Bunny; suggested I got a good fortune today. Sent from my iPhone 6

And how did it go this time?

[littleloogy]

I am laying under my car taking a nap., wishing the jack stands would fail.... Need I say more?


Sent from my iPhone 6

[littleloogy]

Originally Posted by Easter Bunny And how did it go this time?

Even the extractors are slipping. That bolt is fucking stuck a fuck. Thinking about getting this specialty tool:

Seems like my only option. I'll keep working at it, I really don't want to take the EM and the studs out... Even then I doubt I can get it out because of that damn plate.


Sent from my iPhone 6

[g00s3y]

Same thing happened to me trying to take the turbo bracket off. The one bolt would not budge, rounded it off some, so took a mm smaller socket, hammered it on, put the breaker bar on it, and hammered the shit out of the bar until it came loose.

[Easter Bunny]

Did you buy the metric sized extractor kit?

[Tokay444]

I'm going to read the whole thread later, but I'm farmiliar with these internals, and planned on running them myself. Not because they can run e, but because I'd put money on them reducing fuel dilution by a decent amount.

[littleloogy]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 I'm going to read the whole thread later, but I'm farmiliar with these internals, and planned on running them myself. Not because they can run e, but because I'd put money on them reducing fuel dilution by a decent amount.

You are 100% correct. I am glad to hear you are going to run them. They are extremely well built, and there have been Zero reported failures on all other platforms (2.0t engines). Godspeed.


Sent from my iPhone 6

[littleloogy]

Originally Posted by g00s3y Same thing happened to me trying to take the turbo bracket off. The one bolt would not budge, rounded it off some, so took a mm smaller socket, hammered it on, put the breaker bar on it, and hammered the shit out of the bar until it came loose.

Fuck that shit! We have some fucking cursed Gen Pu's, done we.

Originally Posted by Easter Bunny Did you buy the metric sized extractor kit?

Yes. that kit seems to require some hammering to get the sockets to grab the bolt. There is not a lot of room for hammering. I am off to the store to go buy some more beer and get slowly get drunk as I keep trying to remove this damn Bolt.




Sent from my iPhone 6

[littleloogy]

So, while at the store I see these weird sockets. They are advertised as "will work on rounded bolts and nuts" so naturally I buy them and tell myself that if this fails I'm going to bolt my car back together and send CS their turbo back. Sure enough it breaks within 2 mins of opening the package.

I then said to myself, let's try the Bolt outs @Easter Bunny; suggested one more time. I noticed that this time the extractor fit on 80% of the bolt. "Oh Yeah, it's fucking on" I said to myself. "I knew those new sockets would work." I grabbed my 250ft/lbs torque wrench and set it to 120 foot lbs... No dice. 130... Still nothing then finally at 140 ft/lbs I hear a "crack!" I said well fuck there goes my extractor. Holy fuck would you look at that....

I got that SOB. Now the turbo install, can continue...


Sent from my iPhone 6

[Oni]

Originally Posted by littleloogy Amazon is only $60??? The local auto parts store tried to rape me $400 for a new one. But right now the 02 sensor is the least of my worries. I broke a socket trying to get the turbo support plate off and rounded the bolt head. My god they are way over torqued for that size of bolt head. Had to get a 3 foot cheater bar to break the first 2 loose. Then on the 3rd is where I broke a socket and now I am once again stuck. This had got to be the biggest pain in the ass that I have ever faced. My only move now is to remove my exhaust manifold, so I attempt to do so. Then get stuck on the last bolt that sits In front of the turbo. Its like something is telling my not to install this thing. Sent from my iPhone 6

Rock Auto had them for 250-350 when I did mine. I waited for it to drop to 250 until I did my DP because I knew I'd need one.

[Easter Bunny]

Originally Posted by littleloogy So, while at the store I see these weird sockets. They are advertised as "will work on rounded bolts and nuts" so naturally I buy them and tell myself that if this fails I'm going to bolt my car back together and send CS their turbo back. Sure enough it breaks within 2 mins of opening the package. I then said to myself, let's try the Bolt outs @Easter Bunny; suggested one more time. I noticed that this time the extractor fit on 80% of the bolt. "Oh Yeah, it's fucking on" I said to myself. "I knew those new sockets would work." I grabbed my 250ft/lbs torque wrench and set it to 120 foot lbs... No dice. 130... Still nothing then finally at 140 ft/lbs I hear a "crack!" I said well fuck there goes my extractor. Holy fuck would you look at that.... I got that SOB. Now the turbo install, can continue... Sent from my iPhone 6

that's twice this week I have been right. I was surprised you didn't get it to work the first time. My real project car is a 74 cutlass that has been outside for the last 20 years, there are bolts on there so rusted that I use metric on some bolts due to the loss in size. Anything that i ever rounded came right out with those.

Also organize your kit better. My OCD wouldn't allow me to put theM away facing diffent directions. The would all be craftsman side up with crafRaman right side up when you open the kit.

[littleloogy]

Originally Posted by Easter Bunny that's twice this week I have been right. I was surprised you didn't get it to work the first time. My real project car is a 74 cutlass that has been outside for the last 20 years, there are bolts on there so rusted that I use metric on some bolts due to the loss in size. Anything that i ever rounded came right out with those.

Most likely a combination of frustration and not thinking. I was surprised how much torque they could take. It's like the more force I gave it, the more it dug into the bolt. I will have fun removing the bolt from the extractor. I'm sure.

Originally Posted by Easter Bunny Organize your kit better. My OCD wouldn't allow me to put theM away facing diffent directions. The would all be craftsman side up with crafRaman right side up when you open the kit.

My whole garage is in total disarray. It looks like my tool box had food poisoning. So much that the floor is just covered with beer bottles, parts, bolts, and tools. I am thinking about putting everything away before I start assembly.



Sent from my iPhone 6

[JgamB]

I took a nice chunk out of my thumb breaking loose a turbo mount bracket bolt Tuesday last week, still healing up. I usually take my gloves off for the under car part of the swap if the car is cool - dipshit! I broke the other one loose with my foot instead, shit was easily ~140ft-lb as you described.

I have two spare primary O2 sensors laying about, got them cheap. If you haven't already bought a new one, LMK and I'll sell it to you for the extremely low price of shipping.

[littleloogy]

Originally Posted by JgamB I took a nice chunk out of my thumb breaking loose a turbo mount bracket bolt Tuesday last week, still healing up. I usually take my gloves off for the under car part of the swap if the car is cool - dipshit! I broke the other one loose with my foot instead, shit was easily ~140ft-lb as you described. I have two spare primary O2 sensors laying about, got them cheap. If you haven't already bought a new one, LMK and I'll sell it to you for the extremely low price of shipping.

I might have to take you up on that. I got everything together and fired her up. It seemed to run okay for the first 10 seconds or so, but then it would start acting weird. Almost like the engine is chocking on itself. I am getting AFR reading s in the 14 range which seems good. But i did notice that the AFR's did not bounce around like they normally would after a battery pull. Also Shouldn't my AFR's lean out when my engine is off and ignition on?

This is what my AFR is showing with the engine off and key on after 8 hrs of sitting. I don't think that normal, is it?


Sent from my iPhone 6

[JgamB]

I'm not certain - I've never checked my AFRs with the car off. I'd imagine it just displays the last recorded AFR value before you shut the car off. PM me your address and I'll get it sent 2 day USPS.

[Easter Bunny]

AFR should be lower on startup. Though if you didn't run it long enough to get the sensor hot it could have not been registering a value yet.

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by littleloogy I might have to take you up on that. I got everything together and fired her up. It seemed to run okay for the first 10 seconds or so, but then it would start acting weird. Almost like the engine is chocking on itself. I am getting AFR reading s in the 14 range which seems good. But i did notice that the AFR's did not bounce around like they normally would after a battery pull. Also Shouldn't my AFR's lean out when my engine is off and ignition on? This is what my AFR is showing with the engine off and key on after 8 hrs of sitting. I don't think that normal, is it? Sent from my iPhone 6

It's completely normal to have a KOEO AFR reading of 14.85, if my car is anything to go by. It's been that way for the last 80k miles.

[littleloogy]

Originally Posted by Vansquish It's completely normal to have a KOEO AFR reading of 14.85, if my car is anything to go by. It's been that way for the last 80k miles.

That's great news that the sensor my not be screwed up. But now it's leaning towards worse news that something else maybe wrong. Of course there is not much more that could be wrong. So, Hum...


Sent from my iPhone 6

[Easter Bunny]

Did you leave a rag stuck in the intake?

[littleloogy]

Lol, I hope not. I'll have to check it out when I get home. It was 12am when I finished and fired it. I was not in the mood to start troubleshooting. Hell, maybe the stuttering was my fuel pump failing.


Sent from my iPhone 6

[Enki]

Need a log of the issue to know for sure what's going on.

[littleloogy]

Originally Posted by Enki Need a log of the issue to know for sure what's going on.

I am honestly scared to start it again. I'll give everything a once over when I get home from work and give it a shot. Looking back I wish I would have logged the original startup, fuck.


Sent from my iPhone 6

[Enki]

It's probably either disconnected O2 or MAF issue like what myself and a couple other speeds I know of have (MAF harness has to be moved slightly to make a good connection so the car will run properly)

[speedfreak44]

@littleloogy; that socket set is shit. I broke 2 sets. I'm on my third and now just use it for light work no torquing or breaking stuff loose

[littleloogy]

I am so fucking stupid. This is why you don't work on your car late at night. My down-pipe was not bolted on all the way, no wonder my car sounded like absolute ass. My O2 sensor is definitely leaking though. I hear a tick in my engine bay. But at least I can drive my car. I'll try to fix the threads once I get another primary O2 sensor. Thanks @JgamB; for your help!


Sent from my iPhone 6

[Enki]

Originally Posted by littleloogy Inb4Jamesgozoomzoomboom Sent from my iPhone 6

I may blow the motor but at least I can operate a fucking wrench properly.

[littleloogy]

Fuck you!


Sent from my iPhone 6

[littleloogy]

Back on topic. Fuel pressure is still good.
Back off topic. Coolant, PB blaster, oil, and anti seize makes some stinkies as they burn off. Glad I'm rolling again. I'm taking it easy until the smells go away


Sent from my iPhone 6

[JgamB]

If you spend more than 1 hour at full operating temp and still have smoke in the cowl area, you have a leak from my experience, regardless how much solvent you sprayed. Unfortunately it looks like Friday for the O2, so hang in there.

[Easter Bunny]

at least it was stupidity on your part instead of a real problem

[JgamB]

Loogy you get the primary 02 and coil pack today? Looks like you've cleaned up your issue in the meantime - just Nator that shit out as needed.

And run more boost and less timing, puppy turbo should behave better that way if it's really flowing more, and you can drop down to 25% or less Eth.

[littleloogy]

Originally Posted by JgamB Loogy you get the primary 02 and coil pack today? Looks like you've cleaned up your issue in the meantime - just Nator that shit out as needed. And run more boost and less timing, puppy turbo should behave better that way if it's really flowing more, and you can drop down to 25% or less Eth.

Yes I did! I can't thank you enough. What you did there was true NATOR spirit. I have not installed it, but still intend to later on. My old one is literally hanging in there by a thread. I just could not wait any longer, and wanted to drive my car.

I will push this puppy as far as I can with the available fuel headroom on full E, as I am still testing these internals. I will then temporarily change to a mix for testing purposes. :-)


Sent from my iPhone 6

[littleloogy]

I am traveling to Tahoe with the Puppy and IE internals installed. I forgot to pack my spare pump, SI-1 and my spill valve repair kit. 600 mile round trip. Kinda worried.


Sent from my iPhone 6

[MD1032]

Originally Posted by littleloogy I am traveling to Tahoe with the Puppy and IE internals installed. I forgot to pack my spare pump, SI-1 and my spill valve repair kit. 600 mile round trip. Kinda worried. Sent from my iPhone 6

Haha, wow, this is the acid test now!

[g00s3y]

Originally Posted by littleloogy Yes I did! I can't thank you enough. What you did there was true NATOR spirit. I have not installed it, but still intend to later on. My old one is literally hanging in there by a thread. I just could not wait any longer, and wanted to drive my car. I will push this puppy as far as I can with the available fuel headroom on full E, as I am still testing these internals. I will then temporarily change to a mix for testing purposes. :-) Sent from my iPhone 6

I have to be honest and say I'm already back on a 50/50 mix, because power. I couldn't really get more than ~305/~330 @ 19psi/5k RPM around without my IDC's reaching 100+. I was already quite aggressive with the timing to offset the lower boost, and didn't really feel like pushing it further, because I want to keep my engine in working condition.

On another note, how is your fuel level sender doing? I feel mine started to get a little weird today, not sure if that's because of it being out for so long and still "learning" (I doubt it), or if it's starting to mess up again (I hope not).

[littleloogy]

Originally Posted by g00s3y I have to be honest and say I'm already back on a 50/50 mix, because power. I couldn't really get more than ~305/~330 @ 19psi/5k RPM around without my IDC's reaching 100+. I was already quite aggressive with the timing to offset the lower boost, and didn't really feel like pushing it further, because I want to keep my engine in working condition. On another note, how is your fuel level sender doing? I feel mine started to get a little weird today, not sure if that's because of it being out for so long and still "learning" (I doubt it), or if it's starting to mess up again (I hope not).

What AFR are you targeting? My IDC can hit 120 without problem. Plus you can tweet your Latency of you IDC to give you a bit more head room. What MODS?



Sent from my iPhone 6

[Enki]

330 whp should be easy with 12:1 afr target...which is what I'm targeting at well over 70 more horsepower than what you're making now (stock block). On full corn, just about everything you can do is "safe."

[g00s3y]

Originally Posted by littleloogy What AFR are you targeting? My IDC can hit 120 without problem. Plus you can tweet your Latency of you IDC to give you a bit more head room. What MODS? Sent from my iPhone 6

12.05 AFR. I was leaning it out to 12.2, but didn't notice any difference, and didn't want to go any leaner. I know we can go above 100, but with mine, above ~105 it starts to stutter a bit, and above 110 quite a bit more (plugs are good, gapped correctly, etc...).

Plus, with most of my driving being city/town driving, FL heat so A/C on all the time, MPG's were horrible. So 50/50 helps with that some also (read MPG tooning thread, modified cruise load afr's/timing, still sucky). When it starts getting cooler I'll probably go back full corn, just because I can now.

Originally Posted by Enki 330 whp should be easy with 12:1 afr target...which is what I'm targeting at well over 70 more horsepower than what you're making now (stock block). On full corn, just about everything you can do is "safe."

I will probably go back to my tune and try again, just not now here in summer. I step out into the sun and instantly become unmotivated to do almost anything.

[Enki]

Probably just need to throw some timing at it.