Agreed. I would love to test this unicorn jizz in my car.

I agree with all statements above.

Alright, I'll get my notes together and do a write up on it tonight. You all have waited long enough.

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Here you go. I started a Thread For Fuel Additive Cures. http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...3/#post2507049

Enjoy...

My next Oil... Wonder how it works. G-OIL Motor Oils -- Green Earth Technologies

Why new oil when your setup is working?

Because I am a god damn tree hugger, That's why!

It would be nice to find an oil that works with E. So far we have been having to Run an additive to combat Death, but to me that is not good enough. I was wondering if an oil that was not Petroleum Based would react different to E, or possibly have no reaction. Its worth a shot and it gives us more things to ponder. Biobased -- Green Earth Technologies

Kind of missing the whole point of this thread. Lol

Kings of Corn (HPFP + OIL)
 

They don't give much info about additives or anything, do you have any more info on whats in it? Or how well it works besides the testimony on their website? Very interesting idea.

I'm going to start running castrol edge 5w-40, because I can get it cheap out of the oil gun at my work and I think the extra zinc in rotella + me burning some oil is starting to ruin the cat in my downpipe.

No i kno, hes just bouncing all over the place haha......I used to test 100% E with u and along with clint like over a year ago trying to figure out what worked best........ My car has been barely driven and now being built with new turbo setup lol.



Been trying to get back into testing oils again.

Hey look, Squirrel!

Sent from a Galaxy far far away...

Have you by chance heard of/tried an oil called liqi moly?
We run that in all our euro cars with hpfp's. A few of out customers are running full E and haven't experienced any issues with it...
Might be worth a shot

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Which Liqi Moly oil do you guys use in particular?

Im not too sure, don't pay attention really just use what they tell me, ill look tomo

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http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/29/jyga8upe.jpg
This is one of the ones we use

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@MS3LUKE; do you guys ever use MOTUL oil?

I have not. All I've used since I bought the car is mobil1, used to get it for free so why not

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I'll be guenie for this oil soon as I get my E tune done

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I have finally went through my Redline 10w30. One of the best oils I have ever tired yet. Very low wear, compared to penzoil ultra. I am debating to try royal purple, G-oil, or do another round with Redline. G-oil and redline have the same synthetic stock base. So I am kinda thinking I should do a Royal Purple like I promised a few months ago.

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any updates on liqui moly?

I ended up filling up with Royal purple 5w30. This shit was like grape juice. I'll see how this oil does against black death compared to my last oil.

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Unfortunately nit yet
Should be the next couple weeks tho!

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I would really love to be able to run 100% E85, just for the ease of filling up. Aaaaand it's tad cheaper aswell!

Two weeks!!!

Sent from Stockish Pu

I rebuilt the pump while i changed my oil to royal purple 5w-30. I don't know how I feel about this oil. I got a lot of relief valve squeaks on my way to work this morning. Internals seem to be sticking slightly after only 20 miles. I also heard slight chatter on startup. I am not running any additive like I was with Redline. I want to see how long I can go. Before failure.

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You running the DEXOS 1 oil? The RP 5-30 DEXOS 1 oil lasted the longest for me out of every other oil I've tried.

This stuff. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/06/sy7yhuva.jpg
http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/p...ple-motor-oil/

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Well all in all i say this oil works pretty well. At 150 miles on full E I have yet to encounter any deaths, no sticky, and no blacks. Must be something in that purple substance. I am not sure why my pump was squealing at the beginning, but it stopped that next day. Maybe I was being paranoid, I don't know. This statement may jinx it, oh well.

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Are you still manually injecting fuel treatment into the spill valve?

Fuck no. Can't get a baseline test being on additive.

Edit: I also back on my stock SV and stock button return spring.


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@littleloogy; did you see my Blackstone UOA on that oil? 6 month change interval and there was no fuel in it. Good shit.

Have any of you guys done a study on Eneos oil? Thats what I run in my Speed3 and seem's to be the best oil ive used to date. Granted I dont run e85 or any mix of that sort but was wondering if anyone else has tried it to see how well it works.

Yes, I was surprised to say the least. But made me feel more comfortable running it because your wear metals looked great. The oil feels like Pennzoil ultra on cold startup and overall engine smoothness, so I like that part. You are on to something about this oil being more resistant to E.

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You have any UOA done to back up those claims, or is it one of those butt-dyno type situations?

Yeah the fact I got several miles out of it rather than having the spill valve go out in my driveway was a bit of a plus.

More of a butt dyno and any other oil I used I would always pull an egr code but since using this oil not a single code. Just wondering if anyone else has used it etc...

@Enki; I did use the additive to clean my internals and also used it as a lube for my seal. So naturally there is some additive left in the fastener. I hope that having that in there at the beginning is not fucking with my test results.

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Don't see why it would; my pump is just especially bad on E for some reason (much like everyone else that's run it for extended periods of time I guess).

Well I was thinking if additive was trapped inside it would retard the formation of black death.

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How many miles on your pump? Have you ever replaced your quad ring?

>50k and yes, with a brand new one. No change.

Sorry for some obvious questions here, I just have a hard time accepting such variable performance in such a precision manufactured mechanism, and I believe these are the most likely variables:

Buna or viton quad ring? (this is a question I'm particularly interested in for those who have had more success running full E85)

What brand internals? How much resistance was there when you pressed the piston through the quad ring?

Do you torque the 18mm nut assy with a torque wrench or just goodntight?

Any doubt at all in your mind as to whether the quad ring was damaged during piston install?

What really has me scratching my head is your long-term UOA that showed no fuel dilution whatsoever. Was that with the same pump installation, no variables at all in the HPFP between the UOA interval and the E85 failures? With no fuel dilution, it follows that your quad ring/piston seal is doing a great job...

To more quickly answer the above questions, I'll just say that over time, running full E will gradually get worse and worse until you just don't bother to try to run it anymore; this is with both the stock and an aftermarket quad ring (you'll have to search to figure out which one I have as I don't recall).

The type/brand of internals don't matter either, as every type of internals/pump has had issues with the exception of CPE pumps lasting significantly longer, probably due to the revised retaining nut sealing configuration.

Quad ring was fine before/during/after numerous installs. It isn't the issue.

As for your last question, if you read my thread, I probably pulled the entire pump twice during that six month interval. As a side note, the fuel dilution doesn't come from the pump, it comes from the nature of direct injection spraying fuel directly into/onto the cylinder.

This was also a cold sample, so it had ample time to evaporate any fuel out of the oil as it is; it's very possible that this oil simply doesn't dilute with fuel, which could very well have been sitting on top of the oil in pan.

Thank you for the education. I know I'm coming very late to this party, but this is very interesting stuff and I'm hoping to gain enough knowledge that I might be able to contribute something. I've read most of the important threads start to finish, but it's been a while on some of them.

Alright senior Oil chief. I am excited to say that I did make it to 250 miles without touching the pump. Pressure is starting to show signs of spill valve sticking but this is to he expected after 20 hot shutdowns. I'll pull the pump over the weekend and see if there is any death on of around the internals.

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So I read somewhere today that someone using the CPE full pump assembly has run two years on 100% e85 without any issues.

If this is true, could we not disassemble one of these to reverse engineer the build? I'm wondering if they used some magic seals, with unicorn jizz.

Does anyone here have said CPE pump, and has had issues? I'd be willing to pitch in to buy one if someone is willing to test.

If I remember correctly few people were running CPE pumps and had Black Death...

It's more likely to be a combination of pump design, oil and fuel quality.

Bump for updates in the interest of corn!

Contacted a local oil supplier here in Australia that claim e85 compatibility with some oils, described what happens with our hpfp.. Got the following back:

25% mix no cleaning :) but more knock :(

Probably incorrect. When I did my test and got the sticky death, the oil I used was fresh from the quart bottle. If there was water present, it was from humidity in the air and probably not enough to cause issues (I live in AZ).

I believe this is correct. Here's a transcript from pqiamerica:

This doesn't mean that it's compatible with the e85 that enters our fuel pumps. I only run e30 so I don't expect to ever have any of these issues you guys running e85 have but I've been doing a bit of research into oils compatible with our engines, specifically redline and motul products, and came across this which discusses an E85 oriented oil which will be available some time in 2015. Could be promising but tests and time will determine.

Motul Engine Lubricant Range Explained

It's also dessox certified etc... Will likely be using this oil at next change, not sure if I'm willing to go without the additive when trying full e85 tho...

The two e85 suppliers I contacted both said it was an issue with the pump and I should contact the manufacturer of the car to get it fixed (HA!)

And another oil & petrol (no e85) supplier said if this issue only occurred with higher blends of ethanol I should only use lower blends... As they don't test their oils against our situation/with e85...

Did realise that dessox is a GM certification, be funny if a GM product cured one of our biggest issues... @Raider; might have to stop his hate for a little while :p

No, just more reason for problems with our cars. Probably meth lab leftovers and tears of sorrow from the high school dropouts who went to work the line in the D.

Two things:
1. Dexos
2. It's a standard not a product.

Dexos is the correct spelling.

That was nulon right? I don't think they know what to say sometimes...

First from the website, while the 5w40 is SN only the 5w30 is dexos certified (also SN)

I asked them awhile ago about oil and they told me to use 15w-50!

Yeah, was going to go with the 5w30 :p it seemed a bit odd that they'd suggest a non e85 certified oil when I say I'm going to run e85...

Know someone who works at a refinery here that supplies e85, but doubt they will be able to help :(

I've got about 20 liters of Castrol Edge 5w-30 A3/B4 and 10L of 5w-40 SN to get through before I change brands (although 5w40 is not 50% at Repco so might get another 10L lol)

I was going to try the Nulon but I think I might go with Penrite ENVIRO+ GF-5 5W-30 as my first test oil for E85

Seems to be good for everyday use E blends and also direct injection (LPG mind you but still)

SN, GL-5 and GM dexos1TM Licensed.

I got an marketing email from Mueller Motorwerks about SEMA 2014 - Las Vegas which has this in it:

Power Hour Interviews - Royal Purple

Scott Critchell, Central/Midwest Regional Manager for Royal Purple, is dropping in for a Power Hour interview in December. Have a nagging question about Royal Purple? Now's the perfect time to ask!

The link goes here: https://www.facebook.com/MMWerks/pho...type=1&theater

May be work a short asking a question on Facebook page regarding E85...

Possibly a strange suggestion, and feel free to correct me if I've got this wrong...

But the new pumps on VAG cars have upgraded internals already, wondering if they have better oil/fuel separation as well, and would they be compatible with our cars?

I have had the same thought. It would not however be compatible with our cars. The pumps are a lot different then ours now. Old technology is left in the dust.

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

Yeah, I contacted a VW forum, our pumps are from the EA118 engine, whilst most of the modern cars have moved onto the EA888 engine...

Have asked if they found a solution, but not expecting an answer, I don't think e85 is that big a thing in their world...

why because they're pussies? wtf would one NOT run E85...lemee think...nope not 1 reason comes to mind (assuming availability is not an issue)

Main reason, lack of "open" tuning software... The vast majority of tunes aren't like the AP (see APR/revotechnik etc), people can't self tune, and the big companies aren't interested in e85...

Hi guys,

I have a suggestion that may peak your interest. Here's my story...

I started working for a company called Silcotek a little while ago. They are a relatively new company that specialize in metal coatings. But not just any coating, the only coating of its kind, patented to Silcotek. It is a gaseous coating named Dursan that makes the material being coated inert, hydrophobic, and extremely resistant to heat and physical wear. My theory to test would be to send the HPFP aftermarket internals through the process of being coated. After coating, installing them in the car, and filling up with e85. Best case scenario, it solves our 100% E85 issue. Worst case, we're back to where we are now. As I said, I'm employed with the company and would be willing to coat someone's aftermarket internals. Preferably some of the guys brave enough to go 100% e85. Please let me know any concerns with this, as it was a spur of the moment kind of thought. They were explaining the coating to me, and I had a moment where I thought "I think I know what I should coat"


Again, it's a gaseous coating, so there will be an extremely minimal layer of coating on the part. Nothing like any coating you've seen before. I'll post a video below as a demonstration. Input is welcome!

We can also coat other parts as well. maybe more fuel related parts?

Thanks!




For guys that like factual videos.

@Enki;

I am guessing only if it keeps the death from sticking to the SV and internals. The issue is oil getting in there and E will not fully dissolve it.

yes, that was my hypothesis. that it would repel the death from sticking to the internals, therefore it would still be there, but wouldn't cause issues with driveability.

The spill valve components (needle, seat, button, at a minimum), the internals (both sides) and the retaining nut at the very least should be coated if someone is going to test this.

I worry because the tolerances between the internals piston and collar have super tight tolerances...

ah, ok. I was curious about the tolerances too. But this coating is really quite astounding. might as well try, right? lol

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...3f967978b4.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...6053e8c77d.jpg
FWIW, I got this response earlier today when asking about corn and MPS. Will try to clarify 'frequently' in regards to oil changes.

No fuel getting out of the oil pump may mean no oil getting into the fuel pump.
I bet most of our fuel dilution also comes from the pump rather cylinder wall wetting.
I haven't looked at it too hard though, so I could be wrong.
Apparently these internals fit everything the Autotechs we use in our pumps fit.
I can contact them and ask for more specifics on the thread for the retaining nut, but may these be the 100%e answer?

IE High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) Upgrade Kit: 2.0T FSI :: Fueling :: Engine :: USP Motorsports

Try it out and let us know.

I don't have access to corn.

I do, buy this for me... ;-)

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

Are those the same ones I posted in the hardware mod thread?
http://www.performancebyie.com/ie-hi...0t-fsi-engines

Looks like it.

Did they work in that thread?
I'd be willing to pitch in on a set for testing.

Untested.

@littleloogy; do you think the 1000cc injectors from the site would work in a disi? Ummm... Copy paste on phone.... Give me one second here...
http://www.performancebyie.com/bosch...dance-injector
They're designed for the TDI but with some of those @Tokay444; injector seals... Fluid is fluid, and diesel is more viscous than corn is it not...?

Designed for TDI and rated @ 43.5 psi? uhm

That's not a TDI injector linked. That's the kind of injector we use in a 5th port setup.

If they can fit inside the constraints of the head, I can design a seal around them.

Observe my instant fail lolhttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...19592bd170.jpg

I warned you lol

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

Might be a fail too but does anyone know how the RS4 injectors compare to ours?
Rated to 500+whp apparently

http://www.performancebyie.com/oem-f...t-from-rs4-fsi

Poorly. Rated to 500 hp but there's twice as many.

Math.

Oh I've only ever seen them sold in sets of 4, odd they do that

I'm still trying to decipher the difference between port injectors and disi injectors lol... Apparently I am always wrong

The difference is where the injector sprays the fuel.

Port injection, the fuel is sprayed into the intake ports where it mixes with the incoming air. The injectors are often mounted in the intake manifold runners, where the fuel sits until the intake valve opens and the mixture is pulled into the engine cylinder.

Direct injection has the injectors mounted in the cylinder head, so that they spray fuel directly into the engine cylinder, where it then mixes with the air. Only air passes through the intake manifold runners and past the intake valves with direct injection.

Well, DI is intended after the intake valves and has 1600+ psi (newer motors are 2000+)
Port is pre intake valves and usually 60ish psi...

DI injector: Attachment 185940
PI:
Attachment 185941

Thanks lol... I meant I can't tell them apart by sight yet. Looks like the electronics mount up differently

I'm waiting for the new ford RS injectors to be released. I'm just praying they fit...

Sent From a Galaxy, Far Far Away...

Make it fit!

The injectors aren't what's holding us back...

Secret? Do tell @Tokay444;

HPFP and/or cam lobes. A positive displacement pump that builds pressure 3 times per 4 injection events isn't the best.

Noted!

Injection timing events probably aren't helping either.