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| Not Ranked : 0 score @agr964; and I are brainstorming idea's. We are hoping to make either a direct bolt on replacement spill valve system or a way to mod it. We have a few concepts however, they are too premature to talk about at this time. We are working on it Edit: our goal is to make the pump able to run 100% E85 without needing to clean the pump/spill valve. Sent while cleaning my spill valve again... Last edited by littleloogy; 01-30-2014 at 08:51 PM. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Pretty much any oil works with mixes up to 50/50 guys. In fact, after this next oil change (which will be RP), I'll be going back to Rotella T6. As for a pump mod that will resolve both deaths, we should be looking at something similar to what the Cobalts use that would completely prevent oil from entering the pump, not just the spill valve (which would be impossible anyways).
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Is it possible to even get the pump modded in a way to do so? Meaning cost wise? Sent from your girlfriends tapabedroom
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I don't see why a retaining nut couldn't be milled that would accomplish what we need, and it should be able to feasibly copy the Cobalt model.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Enki do you think it's possible we could get some developer here? For example, people from corksport, Streetunit, or CP-e. Maybe we could convince them to make it so we could buy it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It's probably unlikely, because the number of people who need/want to run 100% E85 is a small portion of the market. You will become injector limited much more quickly, so without aux fueling, it's not going to get you much vs running a 50/50 or lower mix.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Full corn is for people with either stock turbo or massive aux fueling (I ran out of fuel BT @ 10 PSI on full E85). The cost to design and produce the retaining nut in small batches isn't worth the meager return it would see for such a precision part (which, if even a little off, could destroy the engine, cams, vvt, etc). We basically need a member with the software and engineering expertise to do the brain work, and another with a mill and some scraps to make a couple test setups to be delivered at cost of materials (time can be donated). I really wish it would happen, but I don't realistically see it happening *soon.*
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The reason I bring up the spill valve is that I believe that the sticky substance is in the fuel itself. (Gummy substance on SV) I took a sample of E and let it dry in a bowl. The residue that was left in the bowl was sticky, just like what I found on my SV. So regardless of if we cure black death or not, it is my belief that our Spill valves may still stick. Which still does not allow us to succeed in our ultimate goal. I could be wrong, but I still want to think about this as a two part problem until proven otherwise. Sent while cleaning my spill valve again... |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score While I can agree that the spill valve is first to go out in the pump due to sticky, I don't agree that the cause is directly because of the e85 itself. When I did my testing, I boiled off several potfuls of e85 and all that was left was a yellowish oily substance which was likely a lubricant type additive that wasn't sticky. It wasn't until I added a LOT more heat and t6 that there was any sticky development, and even then, it was only sticky where oil had been; the part of the ceramic coated metal sample that came in contact with the bottom of the pan was not sticky, but was in contact with e85 at all times due to boiling. That's my experience at any rate.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score What about a coating that almost illiminates surface friction. They have this advanced coating that they promote for water and oil...to keep stuff clean and dry. For instance, you can coat a boot in it, walk in mud, and the mud falls off...it won't stick. Oil you can pour on it and the oil slides off the coated area, literally and goes to wherever is not coated. Near-Frictionless Carbon Coating - New Material is Slicker Than Teflon Read this when you get a chance. There have been more developments since this release.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Having the internals and spill needle coated with that could be beneficial, but I wonder how that would affect the internals with their ridiculous tight tolerances. As a side note, I think the spill valve sticking could be completely fixed with a tiny bit of milling (on the part that you pry off that retains the spring and needle) and a teflon washer, since it's that surface that the needle sticks to when issues occur.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It should be like a piston coating...extremely thin...and it requires no machining after coating.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I finally have some time as i am getting into my slow season for my home business, so I posted a WTB ad for HPFP parts. Its time we start eliminating/ confirming all of these ideas. I will start with @Enki;'s ideas first. As I think the probability for success is higher. Sent while cleaning my spill valve again... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I hate people who use profanities. Fucking assholes Sent while cleaning my spill valve again... |
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Stupid fucking cunts.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score In deed. Not going to be sending it out until I can have my low pressure issue resolved with confidence. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Pumps are on order. I also messaged CPE to see if they had any old broken pumps laying around that we could use. I am excited to finally get to the next step. There is a solution, we just have to find the right one. I'm not a big fan of spending all this money, but oh well, Sent while cleaning my spill valve again... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score A few of the pumps showed up, one of them had the spring mod like @Enki; did on the spill valve. Thought it was funny. Had a member donate some pump parts as well at a meet, I'll be going to the machine shop when I get some time. Sent while cleaning my spill valve again... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I doubt this stuff is made to handle extreme temperatures. It seems more like an everyday "don't ruin your shit" kind of thing. The fuel pump and intake valves will get very hot.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score There has been a mod for the button valve on the bottom part of the the spill valve. It helps keep the coils of the spring from touching. That's all fine and dandy, but what about the top? How do we keep that damn needle from sticking??? Well I may have finally come up with a fix (trial of course). The problem we are facing is when the needle gets gummy, it sticks to the collar preventing the button valve from closing causing pressure to not build. To solve this issue, I crimped the spring directly to the needle on the solenoid. ![]() Picture illustrates spring securely attached to solenoid needle. I then attached the spring to the needle and I am left with this. ![]() Theoretically speaking... As the solenoid energizes it will have enough power to pull the needle up, and when it is not energized it will push it back down regardless of gummy residue. I installed this in my pump, and it holds pressure fine. I will see when or if my valve starts to stick. Thoughts or Comments? Sent while cleaning my spill valve again... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Simple yet effective. I look forward to the results, here's to hoping we will have a future on full e.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score That actually could work, depending on the power of the solenoid (which should be just fine, actually, considering the strength of the spring). Good thinking.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score That would be insane if something so simple works. I would definitely like to be signed up for this if it works.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score This is not intended to make our cars able to run full E long term. It is intended to eliminate sudden fuel drop so we don't have to limp home. I am still working on a fuel pump seal mod to keep oil out in the first place. Sent while cleaning my spill valve again... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Sir, I will buy you the biggest glass of beer you have ever seen if you figure this out. I want to run full E without issues.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Afterthought: you really should only have to affix the needle to the spring, since that shit is gonna get yanked by magnetic forces anyways.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Finally Got the nerve to do a few WOT pulls. I really hate doing stupid shit with my daily driver, but oh well. Luckily Logs turned out to be better then I was expecting. Pressure during WOT stayed between the range of 1760 & 1830psi. Normally I would see cells dip into the 1600's, So this is a good change. Unfortunately, I must note that my Idle PSI has suffered with this upper spring MOD. Target idle fuel pressure is 750PSI, I am only hitting High 600's. However, as soon as i tap the fuel pressure is back on track. I will do a idle adjustment and see if that cures the issue. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You really don't need to target higher fuel pressure at idle...imo.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yea 750 seems very high. I believe my idle fp is around 400-500.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I target high pressure at idle mostly as a throwback to when I was full e, to help keep pulse width down and promote better atomization.
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