So Pennzoil Platinum & Ultra both come in the weights we need with the new spec...

sooooo why is everyone on VR1's dick suddenly?

Dunno. I'll be trying Pennzoil Platinum with my next oil change.


Tapadatass

Go for Ultra. It's pricey, but it really does clean the way they say it does.

How is it any better than the Platinum? Any data on that subject?

I can't remember where, but I saw a data sheet with some of the additive levels and they're higher in the Ultra. My car runs better after more miles on it, too (the idle anyways.)

Very conclusive. :chairshot:

I'll do some research on it mahself I guess.

EDIT: I did a lot of reading, and the only answer that I've come to is that PU isn't worse than PP, but nothing more. I have run PU before, but I've only done UOAs with PP. I did two different ones on the MS3, one at 6k and one at 7.5k, both came back OK. PP is fine IMO.

lol, I try.
I have done a UOA in a while. I'll get one on this latest one after 7k, ok baby?

Fuck it, I'm switching to Castrol GTX.

I'll get UOAs on both my MS3 and MS6 which are running PP, and we can play show me yours and I'll show you mine. The 6 needs an oil change about every month to two months, the 3 may take a little longer. I'll do both at 6k, would you do the same?

You mean 6k next time 'round? If I remember, sure.
I don't ham on it, tho, so my results will likely skew better because I rarely WOT.

The 6 gets almost all highway with very few WOT runs, and the 3 gets mostly city and more WOT, so it should give us both ends of the spectrum. The 3 currently has 59xxx miles and the 6 has 65xxx miles, just to keep things in perspective.

I pulled my spill valve last night for the first time since going on E50. The valve had a tan/grey film all over it, but it has yet to give me a single problem. I've been on E50 for a couple thousand miles already.


Tapadatass

Sticky film or just a deposit film?

I didn't check.


Tapadatass

after 1200 miles the valve stuck again although after warming the car up it went away after a mile or so. Polishing the internal parts did seem to help it was sticking it was happening after 300 miles before doing the dremel polishing and would not go away I would have to limp the car home and clean the coating on the spill valve. I am at 5000 miles on Rotella T6 and am changing the oil either tonight or tomorrow and clean the spill valve. Not sure what I'm going with yet but just read this on a Ferrari Forum about Shell Helix.

Walmart is the distributor for the Pennzoil Ultra, formerly Quaker State Q, and both rebadged Shell Helix Ultra.

Makes me think I may do Pennzoil Ultra... any other recommendations? also what weight are most sticking with?

Damn OIL... Just found this on Mobils site too..

Question:
Which Motor Oil Is Best for Engines Using E85 Fuel
I am using E85 fuel in a converted Honda engine originally not designed for its use. One of the primary concerns of this is the formic acid created in the event of water contamination of the fuel. I have always used Mobil 1 5W-20, but am wondering if Mobil Clean or Extended Performance would be a better choice for me. What Mobil oil has the greatest amount of acid neutralizers in it?
-- Andrew Champion, Frisco, CO
Answer:
We recommend you use a heavy duty diesel product if you want additional acid neutralizer. We recommend you try Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 as it is based on HD diesel technology, which contains additional over-based detergents for acid neutralization.

^^good info! I def might try that polishing of the spill valve....idk if I missed it, u have a how-to for it?


I was gonna try the vr1, but I'm thinking 10w30 is too thick....especially being only 40 degrees in the morning to around 50 degrees in afternoon still.

So, finally got over the vomiting and shakes from taking myself off ethanol and was just starting to get my life back on track, and then I thought just 4 gallons what could it hurt, I will swap back right away and I did. But that 4 gal put me right back to the point of shakes. I am weak willed what can I say.... I filled up on E. Oh how I missed the high.

Should be done with the first tank this week, will probably give it a few tanks and then pull the pump and see how it looks, so probably end of next week. I pulled it right before going back and it was pristine clean. So we shall see what happens.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Rename this forum subsection to AA.

Ethanolics Anonymous, where everyone wants to be the designated driver.

Hi, I'm Todd and I've been guzzleing this shiz for 8mo and I'm not stopping..thank u

I put in a bottle of sea foam in my oil ran for 5 minutes then drained it. Put in Pennzoil Ultra 5-30.. they did not have 10-30 at my Walmart. Price was $27 for a 5 Quart big bottle. Cleaned the SPV and did notice the O ring looked a bit worn.. I am keeping this in mind as my next test may hunt down some alcohol certified O rings and replace. I've got 100 miles on it since I did this yesterday and will post any problems Id say ill have 300 miles on it by Sunday. With the Rotella T6 I would see sticking after around 300 miles or 2 tanks of E85.

I am including pics of the polishing I did to the internals of the SPV. Pretty simple grab a Dremel some polishing compound (mothers mag and aluminum polish works great) and start polishing the highlighted areas in the pics keep polishing until its a mirror or chrome finish reassemble with a few drops of lubricant. I used CLP gun cleaner.

Before I polished mine after so many miles the valve would stick usually first thing in the morning PSI would stay anywhere from 45-70 car would drive hit normal pressure then buck like fuel cut and drop to the lower PSI range this would continue until I pulled the valve and cleaned. After polishing the PSI would drop as before but if I drove the car for a mile or so it would free itself up and not stick for the rest or the day even a day or 2 after so It does help. I'm hoping for positive results from the oil change over. Hope this helps.

If polishing helps this much, the makers of the internals should:

a.) Account for polishing in their machine work.
b.) Polish them before we get them, especially for the price paid.

I think he is only polishing the spill valve so it would only be applicable to whole pumps not internals.

Sent from the ether.

He didn't polish the internals. He polished the part of the pump housing the internals sit in, and the spill valve.


Tapadatass

What may also be helpful to polish is the tip of the spill valve plunger. The piece which protrudes through the collar.

Many times when I pulled my spill valve apart, there was slight buildup in there and you could feel it dragging. That's the point which I always thought was the problem.

Correct.. DO NOT Polish the actual HPFP internals / piston. You will remove the coating and more than likley lose FP or damage it.

Anyone think I should run the vr1 10w30 or just run the ultra?



And I'm def gonna polish that spv hopefully this week or next week...since I'm switching to full 85 next week.

Do one, UOA.
Do the other, UOA.

Yeah I was, I think its still a lil too cold for the 10w30 here.

try the sapphire blue VR1...

it costs near the same as the ultra and it's not as easy to get.

Ive used both and honestly they both felt great and looked good after 3000 miles...

I like the VR1 because it's valvoline and they my fav..

DO NOT mix Valvoline VR1 with ANY other oil...

I did my research on VR1, called the tech support on the back and asked questions...

as most other oils conventional and synthetic you shouldn't mix different brands but when it comes to oils such as Ultra and VR1 it's a MUST NOT...

VR1 Racing Oil (VR1)

The #1 selling racing motor oil. High zinc provides race-level protection for any vehicle.

High zinc/phosphorus provides extreme wear protection, including flat tappet applications
Additional friction modfiers to help deliver maximum horsepower
Enhanced anti-foam system protects engine during extreme stress
Compatible with gasoline or alcohol fuels
Available through leading auto parts retailers


Valvoline.com > Products > Racing > Racing Motor Oil Racing > VR1 Racing Oil (VR1)

@SpeedSixxx thanks for the good info! I have heard great things about vr1! But my only concern is that its still ~50-60 degrees here and there...haven't rly had the best weather yet.

You still think ill be good with 10w30? Pretty thick oil for not that warm off weather yet.

So thats what it comes down to? The Oil?

@Enki, do you have any plans to re-do your test with another oil instead of T6?
Penzoil Ultra seems to be a good candidate from what I gathered.

I certainly can.

I think your method is a very valid way of getting a quick answer as to what oils cause the black death.

Also, where did you get that plate from? @jbarone?

is that the only weight they have?

if not 60 degrees really isn't so bad...

how many miles on your engine? I wouldn't be so worried if you have a good amount of mile son the motor as the clearances aren't what they once were...

Not to mention the new recommended oil weight by Mazda is 5w40....10w30 i've used before and I never had an issue.. just let it warm up a bit and don't get on it for the first 10-15 min of driving..

good luck!

anyone recommend an oil testing lab I can send my oil to?
I use different brands of oil every few oil changes just cause...

I'd love to test the differences after 3000 miles on each type...

I use.

Valvoline Syn
Ultra
Rotella T6 Syn
Platinum
AMS oil....

what do I send the oil in? a test tube?...lol

The sample plate was from Jet-Hot, the hotplate was from Amazon.

Shawn it gets into the 40's in the morning here, and no issue's

VR1 Synthetic comes only in 10w-30 and 20w-50. Mazda recommends 5-30 I believe

Blackstone Labs is where I do mine. They will send you a test kit for free. Just order it well in advance, my first test kit took forever to show up.

ty...

I must have used the 10w30 then.

worked great.

Yeah, like jay said, only 20w50 or 10w30......but it looks like my gonna give 10w30 vr1 a try this weekend...then switch to full 85 next week and see what happens! Also need to polish the spv.....and I have 38,5xx miles on my car.


Ahh good to kno! It's also 40 degrees here in the a.m....and around 50-60 in the day...ill def be giving vr1 oil a try then!

Damn we get 70-80's in the day, well this week has been a bit chilly

80 during the day here, and summer is just getting started lol.

I just read through this thread a lot of good info and I'd like to thank everyone one that added their two cents.

I have a question not sure if it would help. From work I know an Amsoil oil rep and he seems to know quite a bit about oil. Would someone like that help out the situation with the oil. Would there be any questions I could run by him that might help the cause?

Like I said not sure how much that would help but thought I'd throw it out there and I wanted to sub this thread.

The current situation with the pumps is likely not a situation anyone has EVER accounted for before.

"What happens to the oil if it's completely diluted in fuel and heated to 230 degrees or so?"

The answer in my mind would be "You have a serious issue if the oil is completely diluted in fuel."

So 3 and a half tanks on the VR1 and no issue's as of yet. Debating on pulling the pump tonight or waiting another 300 miles when I'm at about 1k miles. Fuel pressure is holding great, better then it has in a long time. Oh and I didn't warranty the autotechs, only because the stock internals I put in were scaring me even more, so I figured I'd wait until I got my extra set of upgraded ones back from injector rx. Since I put the autotechs back in though I have had zero issues.

Might as well wait and let it get worse (if it's even getting nasty in there).

Well I start leave tomorrow so the car will be getting a lot of down time and love. Just finished the forth tank tonight which makes it between 800-900 miles since I aver average about 200-225 a tank. Honestly it's hard to say, The lowest I see fuel pressure at wot is a couple of small dips into the 1600's and normal cruising it seems fine.

Pull that biatch and lets see what's up.

I say run it until the spill valve sticks.


Tapadatass

Well i replaced my injector seals last night....got a chance to look at the injectors and shit, and my stock seals were all junked up.....idk if that normal or from running full e85 before for around ~5000 miles.

http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/...A3MzcuanBn.jpg

http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/...A3MzUuanBn.jpg

http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/...A3MzQuanBn.jpg

http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/...A3MzguanBn.jpg

So before you read any further I am not saying this is an end all be all solution to the problem. This is 1 car, 1 pump, 1k-1100 miles. Once more people have tried different oils or the same I am currently running, there are more positive results, and nothing changes for me in the next 10k miles, then I would say oil choice is a must do for positive results. That being said on to the rest....

Pulled the pump today since I finished out the 5th tank since swapping back to 100% E85. I was unbelievably amazed at how good everything looked. Actually I had pump, high pressure line, and HPRV out, and they all looked good. Didn't take pics of anything but the pump though. The only spots with any "black death" were little bit around the shaft collar, and a little on the outside of the piston as you can see in the pics. That was it, the rest didn't even have the brown film I got when I initially swapped to E85. Somehow with the flash from the camera the wear spots look brown, but I couldn't get them to wipe off. And on to the pics....

Edit: Just to clarify, I did not even attempt to clean anything before these pictures. The black gunk seen in the places I mentioned early was sticky and was the normal black death, but you can see just how much of that there was.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-p...-18-00_656.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-K...-17-46_215.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-o...-17-41_972.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-z...-17-28_813.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T...-17-17_474.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1...-17-02_129.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F...-16-37_335.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-P...-16-29_634.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-k...-16-22_104.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4...-16-13_804.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O...-14-55_523.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_...-14-47_763.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-J...-12-13_868.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-V...-12-05_743.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_...-11-55_343.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-S...-10-51_513.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v...-22-24_241.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-C...-36-55_103.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A...-40-26_769.jpg

Damn! Good info....ill be switching to vr1 tonight when I switch to full 85....hopefully with positive results too.



But can someone tell me how to pull the pump so easily without taking the battery and intake and all that shit off??!! @GLORIFIEDBOZO @phate

Great info, but you might want to remind us all how it was before the switch.

If the valve cover vent line still goes to the intake up by the MAF, take it off. If you have a TMIC, remove the shield/cover. Unclip the large vacuum line from the intake to the firewall, and sift it towards the ECU. Disconnect the two soft fuel lines and the bottom hard fuel line to the pump, and then use an E8 socket to remove the three bolts that hold the pump onto the head. Then just slide the pump back and up out of the engine bay.

Well i meant more, how do u take the hard line off from under pump....u guys use a stubby open-end.wrench??

Cause it doesn't look like much more under the pump to take hard line off unless u take battery and inlet off.

Use a normal 17mm open end. It will be almost vertical when seated on the nut, but it works fine.

The nut on the hard line is 19mm I believe.

Oh, and put some electrical tape or a ziptie on that hard line below the nut. If you don't, that nut has a tendency to slide down between the block and transmission, and it's a real bitch to fish it back up.


Tapadatass

Ahh okay thanks! Do u also use the 19mm or w.e size it is to hold the other nut in place on the actual fuel pump? Cause I hear of the nut on the fuel pump spins, its bad...?


Yeah I knew that....I have pulled my pump like 15 times already....but I wanted to kno how u guys actually pulled the pump without having to take the battery/battery box and intake/inlet off....this.will save me a lot more time now! Thanks guys.


P.s-last question, best way to clean the pump of the sticky oil?? I kno non-chlorided or w.e brake cleaner....but u guys scrub with towel or what?

Use lighter fluid (naphtha) and a lint free rag or paper towel.

I use gasoline, as I don't have lighter fluid. Works fine.

Edit: I use Q-tips soaked in gas. Learned it from @phate.

If the check valve spins (the part the hard line but threads into), then use a small dab of threadlock on it when you thread it back into the pump housing.

Tapadatass

During all these test, jumping from full 85 to just regular pump, are you keeping the same tune? I would assume not?


Sent from me using Tapshoes

Running pump gas on an e tune would result in a car that doesn't run.

To say the least. An almost instant cylinder windowing experience would probably occur :)

Nah, I just don't think it would idle at all with a 9.5:1 fuel ratio. Lmao

And 21 degrees of timing... :)

Thank you sir. I only have a couple pics I could find and only of the collar, but this was before...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A...-23-32_499.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-E...-23-36_820.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-W...-23-47_584.jpg

Just a note, I do run my 50/50 mix tune on 93 from time to time with no major adverse effects.

I picked up 8 qts of 10w 30 VR1 full synth while I was out today, gonna oil change probably tomorrow and then start runnin the corn again.

Oddly though, the retaining nut from the used pump I bought seems to be holding the oil out pretty good; was pretty damn clean in there when I last checked. Worst case, the scraper setup will fix it even if the oil change doesn't.

That's what I just picked up! but, 7 qts lol......I'm going to change oil tomorrow...just did the switch to full 85 today tho...I still have t6 in my car, we'll see if spill valve takes a shit before the oil switch.


I had to go to 5 different stores for this damn oil.

Lol, I only checked Autozone, but out of the 5 in town only one had it. Oh and it was on sale for $5 a quart at the time

Advance Auto carries VR1 in my town.


Tapadatass

That's who I checked, they all said they had it, when I showed up, they didn't...I hate dealing with fucking idiots at autozone and shit...they don't know anything.

But I got mine for o'reiliys for $6.99 on sale....it was 8.99.

Damn this is expensive oil! I'm really excited about the possibility of it being a solution to the black death though.

Back on e85, fuel trims are -1 ltft and -2 stft @ idle on the map after settling. I have *NOT* changed oils yet and I'm currently hitting ITFP pressure unless I rev it a little, which means I have one or more of the "deaths."

I'm going to pull the pump in the next few days and do an oil change as well, and will be able to report back pretty quickly how the car acts.

It's also worth noting that on the way to the gas station my WOT fuel pressure gave out again; the possible causes being the car is eating spill valves somehow or there's a fundamental problem with the internals that I have yet to notice/find or my PRV is actually dying.

Just made the switch to vr1 10w30 tonight.....been on full 85 again for ~80 miles, but that was with t6, no problems yet....I'm gonna pull the pump and clean Friday and see if any problems happen with the vr1 oil.

Valvoline suddenly notices a large uptick in sales of VR1 10w-30 due to every mazda owner switching over.:headbang:

About 300 miles on the vr1 racing oil and 100% 85 and not a problem yet......did a shit ton of stop and go traffic, boosting a lot and lil highway driving to work 30 miles there and back.

I did clean the spill valve just incase before I got on the dyno on Saturday, but even when I pulled it, i didn't see any build up or oil build up shit....the 2 tiny springs had no sticky feeling when compressed.

I'll pull the pump and check for 'black death' once the spill valve/fuel pressure drops.


@GLORIFIEDBOZO- how do u take apart the whole spill valve? I'm too scared too fuck it up...all i do is take apart the top part off with the horse shoe looking thing and spring and mini shaft like thing lol....is there a way to take apart the whole spill valve??

Subbed for results. I ran about 3 or 4 tanks of 50/50 and no problems with the T6 oil. But if this vr1 stuff works out then ill just swap over next change just for peace of mind. I really dont feel like pulling my pump. i guess ill log from time to time. I wouldnt mind running these insane boost levels on the k04 lol.

you shouldn't see any problems running 50/50 mix. only when running full e85 will they start to show up.

So full E is when the sensors take a shit and the pump offs itself? Im tempted to run a full tank and see what i can crank out of this thing. but im not seeing the trade off being worth it. I already roast the tires as it is. I figure im already at ~315whp. Mayyyybeeee crank out another 10ish maybe? Now if the vr1 solves the pump issue then i wouldnt mind it. But then that leaves the fuel sensor issue, and i like knowing my gas level.

4.5 gallons in and spill valve went out three times total (with sticky). Still need to pull the pump and make sure the internals aren't crusted up with black death; topped off the tank and went back to the 50/50 tune (even though running a ~57% mix right now) and pressure has not fully returned.

Also noticed my oil pressure spikes and stabilizes randomly even when holding constant rpm; wondering if there's some leftover t6 in there getting in the way.

There shouldn't be though, as I let the car sit for two days before draining the oil to the point where it sat for 30 minutes dripping single droplets once every 10-15 seconds, and the oil filter was changed in the same manner (letting it run out of oil).

Dunno, maybe it is the fuel causing the sticky; only way I'll know for sure is when the parts come in from JBR and I mod my pump further.

Tons of great info guys. Thanks

Sorry if it has Ben discussed but has anyone tried pre-mixing with their e-85 to lubricate the hpfp consistently? When I had my rx-7 we put 2-cycle engine oil in our gas tank like half an oz for every gallon of gas and it keeps the rotor seals lubricated. Maybe this would work for the hpfp on our cars!?

Again (third or fourth time in this thread?), this isn't a problem with lubrication. This is a problem with ethanol being unable to clean out coked up oil.

Guys, my car had 18k miles on it and while I have consistent fuel pressure, my rail valve was dropping pressure with a warm engine, key on, engine off. I took out the stock rail valve and there is plastic in the tip of it...from the factory, some kind of fitting or something. In any event, as soon as I took it out the black plastic turned white, which is typical of things that contact e85. My point being that it is possible the e85 is messing with the rail valve as well.

@BOTTLEFED08 why don't you share your findings on Yaz's 100% e85 pump lol

Ill get the pics posted soon.. But for now, lets just say it was a freakin mess with what we had to clean in order for the car to even idle at proper pressure.. His relief valve is shot now too, doing that this weekend. If you want a 50/50 or 100% e85 tune, be prepared to clean the hpfp at least 3 times a month.. if not, your asking for trouble later on.

No issue's with mine, still black and I believe I have the second highest miles on 100% E85(13kish)? @silvapain may have me beat not sure.

Confused, but I thought this is why this thread existed? Also, I believe the cleaning consistency has varied for every 100%er and I don't recall any 50%ers having issue's unless this is a new development.

Sounds distinctly like a shot scraper to me; if it has to be cleaned that often on 50/50, then too much oil is getting past.

Been on 100% 85 on the vr1 for almost 500 miles......I have only cleaned the spill valve twice, because I was going out with a few buddies racin and shit, and didn't want to take a chance with spill valve taking a shit.......but no problems so far....but I do believe the pump needs a cleaning soon...will be takin apart this weekend.

I do have like flasks of lil debri when spill valve comes out....and that lil pin hole where spill valve sits has like brown stain around it too, guessing from oil, but wipes right off....pics up this weekend hopefully.

I didn't really think about it, but since my fuel pump is out of my car anyway, I supposed I could take it apart and see how it looks. 600 more miles of E85 before I yanked the engine. Get some pics up tomorrow.

You have me beat on mileage right now (I'm at ~10K), but it'll be a race to see who's ZZB is back up and running on corn first. :)

Since you guys are pulling/rebuilding the motor, u should replace the fuel line, then cut the one that came off car open, and see what it looks like inside., see if anything is happeneing to fuel lines.......just sayin.

Finally took apart the pump today ((except spill valve since it has been cleaned the other day)).....And got some pics for everyone.......My shit had some nasty slugg oil build up in spots, as you will see in the pics.

This has been about 600 miles on full 85 with vr1 oil ((about 70 miles on t6 before i switched oils))

@Enki @GLORIFIEDBOZO @phate @silvapain

http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/...A3NjQuanBn.jpg

http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/...A3NjYuanBn.jpg

((This part accidently got rolled in some shit on the floor, only oil build up on this))
http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/...A3NjcuanBn.jpg

http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/...A3NzAuanBn.jpg

http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/...A3NzMuanBn.jpg


Q-Tips show was i actually wiped out of the pump.
http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/...A3NzcuanBn.jpg

Valvoline Racing VV205 Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil

Order online through jegs and you get a $1 rebate per quart(up to 12qts). Should come out to $5 a qt. I don't know how much shipping is however. Good through 5-31-12

Edit: Shipping is free for fedex ground but there is a handling charge of $10! Bullshit. Comes out to $5.82/quart/ if buying 12qts. Decent price I guess. Also, it's a mail-in-rebate... gay

Sorry guys I have been lazy about pulling my pump apart, I will try to do it this weekend. My engine is packed up in rubbermaid tubs currently so I will have to find it.

So far, I think the oil is working....well for me.


I have never had the black death....you think its cause I have a cpe pump? Since they are different then just internals.....I think I read somewhere they are 85 compatable with the cpe pump.

I've never heard that but would like to know that little tidbit of info if its true. Maybe Sander @www.cp-e.com can help us with that question.

My newest findings.. I also thought about premixing so I tested with some oils I had. from my past life racing IJSBA Jetski's Yamaha 2R, KLOTZ Benol, Amsoil Intercepter, Rotax XPS mineral oil. I added 8 Oz on a full tank of each oil separately. Before this I was no longer seeing any sticking valve or black death so I was trying to see if this would trigger the occurance.

- Yamaha 2R - NO

- Klotz - NO Exhaust had a nice smell like my race boat used to though :)

- Amsoil - NO

- ROTAX - YES and worse than Ive ever seen it. Car completely died FP was around 30psi and here's the odd part. After I cleaned the SPV it would only run normal PSI for a few minutes which ive never had happen before. I'm guessing the HPFP internals them selves got coated with the stickyness (technical term) as well. Ipoured seafoam into the spv housing so it would seep into the HPFP.. From a dry tank engine light on, 0 miles on trip estimator 4 gallons of 110 VP race fuel and 2 gallons of toluene. Ive found that if you want to clean the fuel system properly and completely this way works like no other.

I am now completely confident that what is in the fuel or what you add to the fuel is causing the gunking or sticky coating not the oil or the the lines or seals. Adding toluene or xylene is always an option to keep things clean in addition to being 121 octane. For now its no additives and 100% E85 again. If I run into another sticky valve Ill post again. for now Pennzoil Ultra and a clean fuel system should be good for a while.

I'm not seeing how this rules out the seal, and it may actually strengthen the argument for oil causing the issue. You've added another variable, here, with the additive.

Enki's testing, and my mass spec reading of the black gunk, both point to oil as being the culprit.

FYI the new scrapers are being cut (Thanks @jbarone), and once I have them I'll finish the tank of 50/50 and then do half a tank of full on e (in case it still goes south quickly like it always does) and break the pump back down after a full tank (if it makes it that far) to see what's up.

Some of you may remember from my hilarious e85 boiling test that I didn't have any sticky at all until I started adding oil to the fuel a couple of drops at a time. *Fingers crossed*

Also, lighter fluid (naphtha) works EXTREMELY well for removing both the sticky and the black death (and you don't need much).

@Enki I am assuming you are trying to do something like this? This is a pump from APR another VW aftermarket company. I stumbled across this looking for something else.

http://www.jkm.org.uk/performance/Mi...ternal_big.jpg

http://www.jkm.org.uk/performance/Mi...Visio1_big.jpg