Because it's not a return style system. Any "flushing" happens at the pump (which is where the fuel pressure regulator is).

Converting to a return style system is actually likely to help.

So why aren't we doing that yet instead of tearing pumps down over and over? :P

Anyone tried some of that new GM oil for flex fuel cars?

I think my pump was taken by the black death this weekend.

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What oil and mixture u running?? I ran 100% E and never looked like that.



Unless yours was over time on a 50\50 mix. Which will happen.

Rotela t6 on 50/50 over time. I got careless and hadn't ran a 93 mix for a while. Gonna try soaking it in sea foam and draining the tank of 50/50 and run some 93, hopefully it works. It only pushes 50-75 psi at idle

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Teflon rod came in today, gonna get it to the gunsmith asap for milling.

Attachment 121021Attachment 121022

Opened up my spill valve today and this is what I found.... Not as bad as some but not great either. Oil is rotella t6 and I'm running ~e25-e30 mix right now..

Just installed my bnr and was logging today and saw 12.2ish afr's when I target 11.8. I have plenty of logs where I hit that 11.8 target but this is the first one where I was a bit lean. FP looked ok mid 1700's, but I'm still using an ANCIENT MrLilGuy HPFP(old school lol) that needs to be replaced with AT internals

how long have you been running that mix for

Since march? Iirc. I will say that I've never cleaned it out until now and I bought this pump used from a guy that blew up running a gt35 stock block back in 2010ish... so this pump has seen some abuse

tapa tap tap

>_>

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1376271722

Gunsmith made it already? Nice! Hope it works or at least helps run 100% E for longer period of time.



I have 300 more miles till I can go back to 100% E.

wow Enki, that looks promising! please do report back with results :You_Rock_Emoticon:

I should be taking delivery of the modded part within the next week or two.

So idk if this goes in this thread but Im gonna put it here anyways. Was having some major fueling issues. I cleaned everything on the hpfp pumps and replaced the hprv, checked all fuses and relays and still wasn't getting what I needed. Cracked open the itfp and this is what I found. Hopefully this is my problem. Won't find out till Monday though when I get the DW65c pump in.

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How long were u running that mixture?

I think the most important question is how long was he running pump before switching over. I put a new pump and filter in my car and the filter looked in good shape; I had less than 20k miles on it at the time though.

Its likely the pump and filter weren't changed ever as I got the car used with 50,000 and it now has a little over 80k. I ran the 50/50 for a couple months though. I was under the misconception that I could run this safely without having to do a 93 flush every once in awhile.

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That isn't a misconception. I've been running at least a 3/7 mix for several years/20k miles (with most of that being on at least 50/50.

If your toilet overflows because your pipes are fucked up and you change to a new toilet doesn't mean you're not going to have overflow issues anymore.

Chances are you would encounter issues after a while even on pump gas anyways, if the buildup was that bad already; like I said earlier, the filter I pulled out of mine was clean.

This is true

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It's in my hands now; nice and tight too.

Pulling the pump tomorrow for full teardown and cleaning before swap. I'll probably nearly empty whats left in the tank right now (just under half) and pull the pump again to see how this thing handles the heat, and go from there.

So the big question is, if this thing works are you willing to get your guy to make more and organize a group buy?

I'm not a vendor so I can't do a group buy; also, supply of retaining nuts is problematic, because I'd rather not have to buy a whole pump just to get the nut.

Also, the gunsmith has the capability to do more, but he spends a lot of time milling other shit like offroad shocks and reservoirs and shit for baja vehicles, so the turnaround time (as per this thread) isn't terribly great.

Edit:
If this does in fact work, I can get all the specs from the gunsmith to supply someone with the production means to make shitloads of these fast with all the specifications used for my pump.

Hopefully get some good results!


Sent from your girlfriends tapabedroom

Came across this at Walmart, anyone try this to see it's affect on the black death?
Fuel System Cleaner for Ethanol | STP® Fuel Treatments

Additives really don't do much. The best thing I've found for cleaning it out is using naphtha, and even really high concentrations in the tank (1 gal added to tank with the fuel level light on) did fuckall to clean it out.

I'd be on board to aid in a production run if it comes down to it.

Your just looking for a reason to have a lot of nuts in your hands.

I planned on going 100% e85 anyday now too. Hopefully it works!

For those of you wanting to run full E85, have you gone that way because it's cheaper, or because it's easier than mixing?

Where I am, E85 works out more expensive per mile than 93 (once you take into account the required injector scaling). It's also scarce.
It's cheapest for me to only use *just* enough e85 to avoid detonation (I use a 3 gallon mix). Not to mention less chance of black death.

Depends. One of the stations near me is 3.7x for 91 and 3.2x for corn, with regular still more expensive than corn, while another has corn in line with 91.

Who cares about cheaper, I fill up atleast once a week. Lets call it 60 fill-up's. At a Price difference of $5 a fill-up it's still only a difference of $300 a year. Even if you fill up 100 times in a year which would be at least 20k miles you're only talking about a $500 difference for a 20+hp gain which really isn't bad at all.

I dont want to bother mixing gases.... $3.20 a gallon (I think cheaper now).


I dont daily my car, so running 100% doesnt affect me....I would clean the spill valve about once a week and pump maybe every month.

Premium is $3.60 for me, ethanol is 2.76 for me...so I probably wouldn't lose any money, and on top of that, I would cut my time in the ghetto pump area by only having to pump one type of fuel...and torque goes up a bit more with 100 percent :) Win win all the way around....not to mention more stable ltfts and AFR.

Had to abort the test, unfortunately. Either the center hole was drilled slightly off center, or it was drilled at a very slight angle; you'd have to be looking specifically for it to see it, even using the bore of the retaining nut.

Going to try some floating vs press fit (I had to destroy the old one to get it out) scrapers, which should resolve any issues pertaining to centering, at least.

More info to follow later.

Edit:
To give an idea of how little off this was, the internals would cycle just fine until that last turn was made on the retaining nut in the pump; then it would bind at the top of the stroke. This apparently will take extreme precision to pull off (not really surprising).

Looking like possible Saturday delivery of new scraper...Fingers crossed.

So the ITFP didn't fix it either. Took it to the dealership the day before I came out to the field for two weeks. My wife was told by the dealership that the timing is off, the actuator is bad and I need a new oil valve. That's apparently why my fuel pressure was so low. I have yet to talk to them though. They replaced my timing shit under warranty only about 12,000 miles ago too. Price to fix is 1800 bucks.

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IF mazda replaced the parts under warranty, and the replacement parts failed, mazda will cover them. Mazda warranties their work when OEM parts are used.

Even though my car is pretty much fully bolted?

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Unless mazda can pinpoint that the VVT failure was caused from your mods, then yes they should warranty it. And saying VVT failure is caused from your bolt ons will be almost impossible to do...horsepower doesn't break your VVT.

Wanna bet?

I guess we'll find out when I can make it down there.

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Any updates on this looking forward to seeing results

I'm on the RP but it's too soon to say for sure. So far, so good. I'll have a final answer tomorrow most likely, with regular updates after that, so long as it doesn't shit the bed.

Pressure dropped off halfway through my morning trip; I will say, however, that while cruising on the freeway the engine was "kicking" quite a bit and AFRs were stable, so I take that as a sign that the pressure was trying to come back.

Also, the moment I got home, pressure started to return and at some point was even at target. While it doesn't last long, I hold hope for my next oil change removing more of the old oil which is what I'm thinking is the cause of the current issues.

That said, I'll be pulling the spill valve this afternoon to see if that is the only issue (which I'm hoping is the case). If it isn't, I'll be going back to 50/50 until sometime after next oil change (which will be in the next couple months, and will be RP again).

IT'S ALIVE!

Spill valve had a little sticky. 5 minutes and back at full gumption; 1/4 tank down, let's see how far this goes.

Dunno if this has been discussed, but came across this. Willing to give it a try.

I can try that with RP too; I'm basically invested in doing the next 2 or so oil changes with it.

Interested to see results of that, to see if it's even worth trying this ULX110. Because it could separate it when it's new but after some cycle through the engine it could break down and allow the E85 to blend with it.

So definitely interested to see how some RP unused mixes (or doesn't) with E85.

Finding this ULX110 looks to be a challenge in the U.S as wel...

Found a contact in the U.S

ULX110 USA Manufacturer
Coolant Control Inc.
5353 Spring Grove Avenue
Cincinnati, Ohio 45217
U.S.A.
Toll-Free Phone: 1-800 535 3885

If the fuel pressure holds, it'd be interesting to see a UOA on the RP after 3000 miles or so. From what I've seen over at bitog rp sucks balls compared to pretty much ever other uoa for most cars.

But if it allows us to run 100% e85 it might be a trade off

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I've also read the same things of RP breaking down pretty fast. I've seen a lot of people say it's good for a few runs down the track and it's broken down pretty fast.

Nevertheless, I'd like to see you mix some fresh RP and E85, and shake it and see how bad(or good)it "dilutes" begin with @Enki.

I have a feeling that any unused oil will separate E85, but it's finding an oil that works for a decent amount of time and how well it works inside the HPFP.

This UOA seems to be decent-ish:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...5w30-uoa-9217/

I'll know more for sure when I do my first UOA though; I've asked for two kits, so depending on the results from the first test, I may be changing the oil sooner/later.

There are so many different types of RP that you really cant just say they all suck. Which version are you using currently @Enki;?

As stated in the other thread:

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1379952677

I believe that is their HPS series which might hold up a little better over the long haul.

We will see. I've ordered test kit(s) from Blackstone.

So went out for lunch today, about 40 minutes round trip. Pressure fell out on the way back, but did the same thing it did the previous time; it fought to come back, so I'm pretty sure it's just the spill valve again.

I'll go clean it a little later and see what's up, but I'll probably go back to 50/50 until sometime after the next oil change before I continue testing it, or until the scraper gets built.

If it is just spill valve again (likely), then it's already a huge ass leap forward on this problem.

Update posted here:

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ml#post2269350

Any news in this issue? Started having the p0091 code and car won't boost and hpfp reading is at 60psi at idle. Wondering if anyone has came up with a fix, mods are stage 2 ots with cat less downpipe, tih, auto tech internals, cai, Cbe, turbo smart bpv, fmic. Any help would be appreciated

Epic first post brah.

Check the flux-capacitor for the HPFP.

I've seen the "stage 2 OTS" map short the capacitor and cause HPFP issues. If that's your problem good luck finding a replacement.

60psi at idle is pretty much the pressure from the in-tank fuel pump. Sounds like you might need to pull the hpfp internals and examine

Ended up taking it all apart and cleaning the spill valve, and hpfp and no more problems. Thanks for the help though

I did not read all 12 pages because I don't feel like it. But just glancing on Mobil 1's website I found this QA:

So it sounds like we're on the right track with our Rotella, still.

http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Ful.../#.VEl6g8szHqB
Found this here in Australia, looks like it has potential...

Meets the desox requirements and also states that it's ethanol happy!

Also comes in a 6L bottle (engine takes 5.7)

My original testing and my current local full corn tester refute that statement completely.

Only one way to find out!

I wonder if an oils ability to withstand fuel dilution in a crankcase might make it even more prone to adding to black death/sticky problems in an MZR fuel pump. We see this with Rotella. :(