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![]() | | #161 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score ![]() off-topic: 2gal E85 a fill-up and no known issues from the butt-dyno. The money saved on those two gallons is mind-boggling. It's 3.369 / gal vs. 4.189 / gal for 93. O_o |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have had no HPFP issues on E50 (6 gallons 93 pump gas and 7 gallons E85). Most people only have issues on 100% E85. Tapadatass
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I just got done pulling my pump (as I was only running the two x shaped o rings as I cut the scraper out of my pump and replaced it with an x-shaped oring) and guess what I saw? Shit was clean. Like, I had just cleaned it clean. The tiniest bit of black death made its presence known only after i had fucked around with the piston sans spring/collar. The only thing that worries me about this is whether or not fuel is going into the head; I would assume no, otherwise it would be doing that anyways, but you never know. Turns out my ITFP might be shitting the bed; P0091 MAZDA - Fuel Pressure Regulator Solenoid 1 Control Circit Low Voltage.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Get that one that fits that's in that other thread I saw the other day. ...lol |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Pump gas is E10 here in IL. 6 * 0.90 + 7 * 0.15 = 6.45 gallons gas 6 * 0.10 + 7 * 0.85 = 6.55 gallons Ethanol E50.4 Tapadatass
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| Not Ranked : 0 score haha I think only the one pump here uses E15, but I was just busting your balls. It's so fucked that we look into this shit LOL Fuck I wish we had B85. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm on Rotella still. Tapadatass
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Except for GB, yeah. He didn't have issues on Royal Purple other than questionable test results.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @rfinkle2 I started having issue's when I switched to Rotella
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![]() | | #173 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I am really surprised that none of you use Pennzoil plat, I know its one of the best for fuel dilution which seams like that would help with this issue, plus its not super expensive |
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I feel very scientific for posting in this thread lolz. This is just a guess.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Makes sense. Put a Pyrex cup/baking bowl/etc. on top of the hot plate? |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Seriously doubt there was any water content; the fuel was sitting in a sealed (air tight) container prior to use; also there was no black stuff (at all) and no sticky until I boiled eth with some oil in it.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score My fix so far.. I took my spill valve apart busted out the Dremel some polishing compound polished anything that looked like it moved to a mirror finish. Took a bic pen spring and cut it slightly longer than the stock spring and put it inside the stock spring sort of like the dual spring on a greddy type s BOV. I am russing 100% e85 and 8 OZ of MMO each fill up and have had zero issues for 3 tank fulls so far. Before modding the spring and polishing parts I was getting FP drop to 60 PSI on initial start after a night of sitting. Hope this helps.
__________________ 100% E85 08.5 CWP / COBB AP / CS SRI -INLET / COBB CATLESS DP / AT HPFP / CX RACING FMIC / RACELAND COILOVERS / TRZ DOGBONE MM - TRANS MOUNT / 3" E CUTOUT at DP / MOSSBERG 930SPX IN TRUNK / .40 CAL IN POCKET FORMER 10 SECOND DSM TRANNY KILLER ![]() | Tinkered With K04... |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score What oil do you use?
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![]() | | #179 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Rotella T6... I do need a change in under 1000 miles may try something else since it seems to be causing some issues for others.
__________________ 100% E85 08.5 CWP / COBB AP / CS SRI -INLET / COBB CATLESS DP / AT HPFP / CX RACING FMIC / RACELAND COILOVERS / TRZ DOGBONE MM - TRANS MOUNT / 3" E CUTOUT at DP / MOSSBERG 930SPX IN TRUNK / .40 CAL IN POCKET FORMER 10 SECOND DSM TRANNY KILLER ![]() | Tinkered With K04... |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Actually I think you should stick with it. If everyone but you is having issues on the T6, then what better way to prove your changes work?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ill stick it out and wait to see what happens after a few more tanks. I drive 300+ miles a week so I go through tanks quick. Polishing was super easy I should have took some pics. I might pull it apart to see if its getting coated again and post some up tomorrow. If I don't blow the motor tonight on the SPICY tune lol...
__________________ 100% E85 08.5 CWP / COBB AP / CS SRI -INLET / COBB CATLESS DP / AT HPFP / CX RACING FMIC / RACELAND COILOVERS / TRZ DOGBONE MM - TRANS MOUNT / 3" E CUTOUT at DP / MOSSBERG 930SPX IN TRUNK / .40 CAL IN POCKET FORMER 10 SECOND DSM TRANNY KILLER ![]() | Tinkered With K04... |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score You won't blow on pure e, even if your pressure tanks. Just won't happen bud.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Anyone switch to Valvoline VR1 oil?? I'm willing to try it out once I switch to full 85 again in next week or so....or should I still run t6?
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racing oil I used it one oil change.... the car ran great and the oil was still clearish 3500 miles later when I tried yet another oil. my car is a name brand oil whore, as of now I've been using and sticking with the Rotella T6. love it
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I'm not sure how soon I will be swapping over to E85 though as I am sending in my HPFP internals for warranty work.
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to this day it's prob one of the best oils iv'e used... as stated after 3500 miles the oil was still clean and not once did the motor feel rough. Mobil one syn after 2200 miles the ride is rough...
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm super excited about it, my only wish was that I was running E85 currently.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah, I'm gonna change to vr1 this week and see what happens on full 85... Won't be on it till the 21st, since thats when the rest of my mods are going on. Is 10w30 gonna be good?
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I just did internals for a genpu on Saturday and the pump was fucking pristine. 30k some miles, pump gas and Rotella T6. *Shrug*
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| Not Ranked : 0 score ^^that's how mine was on 93 too.......and it was even clean with 85, just like thick oil build up on internal shaft or w.e it is tho. I'm gonna switch to vr1 and see what happens.
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__________________ -06 MS6 -Corn fed 07 MS3 - Sold ![]() www.mazdamotorsports.com <<--Mazda racer support program that is free to join and will save you a ton of money. Last edited by phate; 04-04-2012 at 01:06 PM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I would try 5W-30 or 5W-40 if they have it. If not, I would do a 10W-40, but only for the summer. A 10 weight oil is too thick for our engine tolerances when really cold. Tapadatass
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I cracked up when I read it, figured someone would catch it eventually
Thanks
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Here is some nice information on determining the proper oil viscosity with respect to ambient temperature: Engine & Gear Oil - Temperature and Viscosity Limits ![]() Edit: I should add that this table does not take into account engine bearing tolerances. I would run 1 weight lighter than that table for the MS3/6.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score learn something new everyday, thanks for the reference
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Synthetic vr1 only comes in 10w-30 and 20w-50. Currently running the 10w-30 in mine. On another note, I ran about 5gal of e but i have stock internals in so I can warranty my autotechs so I only went WOT a couple times, but when I pulled the spill valve after those 5 gal it was pristine. Hopefully will have one of my sets of upgraded internals back soon Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score It's generally the internals that get nasty with black death quickly, and only at > 50% e mixes (with pure being the worst). I'd be interested in seeing how your pump looks when you get your internals back.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So you think 10w30 is gonna be to thick for the ms3?? I wanted to run the vr1 oil and test it with full 85. Might have to change it up then.....its not that hot yet here for that thicker oil.......hmmm.
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