Resolving HPFP corn woes (black death/sticking spill valve)

[Mizzle]

So Pennzoil Platinum & Ultra both come in the weights we need with the new spec...

sooooo why is everyone on VR1's dick suddenly?

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by Mizzle So Pennzoil Platinum & Ultra both come in the weights we need with the new spec... sooooo why is everyone on VR1's dick suddenly?

Dunno. I'll be trying Pennzoil Platinum with my next oil change.


Tapadatass

[Mizzle]

Go for Ultra. It's pricey, but it really does clean the way they say it does.

[Nataphen]

How is it any better than the Platinum? Any data on that subject?

[Mizzle]

Originally Posted by Nataphen How is it any better than the Platinum? Any data on that subject?

I can't remember where, but I saw a data sheet with some of the additive levels and they're higher in the Ultra. My car runs better after more miles on it, too (the idle anyways.)

[Nataphen]

Very conclusive.

I'll do some research on it mahself I guess.

EDIT: I did a lot of reading, and the only answer that I've come to is that PU isn't worse than PP, but nothing more. I have run PU before, but I've only done UOAs with PP. I did two different ones on the MS3, one at 6k and one at 7.5k, both came back OK. PP is fine IMO.

[Mizzle]

lol, I try.
I have done a UOA in a while. I'll get one on this latest one after 7k, ok baby?

[Nataphen]

Fuck it, I'm switching to Castrol GTX.

I'll get UOAs on both my MS3 and MS6 which are running PP, and we can play show me yours and I'll show you mine. The 6 needs an oil change about every month to two months, the 3 may take a little longer. I'll do both at 6k, would you do the same?

[Mizzle]

You mean 6k next time 'round? If I remember, sure.
I don't ham on it, tho, so my results will likely skew better because I rarely WOT.

[Nataphen]

The 6 gets almost all highway with very few WOT runs, and the 3 gets mostly city and more WOT, so it should give us both ends of the spectrum. The 3 currently has 59xxx miles and the 6 has 65xxx miles, just to keep things in perspective.

[silvapain]

I pulled my spill valve last night for the first time since going on E50. The valve had a tan/grey film all over it, but it has yet to give me a single problem. I've been on E50 for a couple thousand miles already.


Tapadatass

[Enki]

Sticky film or just a deposit film?

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by Enki Sticky film or just a deposit film?

I didn't check.


Tapadatass

[raptorous_g4]

after 1200 miles the valve stuck again although after warming the car up it went away after a mile or so. Polishing the internal parts did seem to help it was sticking it was happening after 300 miles before doing the dremel polishing and would not go away I would have to limp the car home and clean the coating on the spill valve. I am at 5000 miles on Rotella T6 and am changing the oil either tonight or tomorrow and clean the spill valve. Not sure what I'm going with yet but just read this on a Ferrari Forum about Shell Helix.

Walmart is the distributor for the Pennzoil Ultra, formerly Quaker State Q, and both rebadged Shell Helix Ultra.

Makes me think I may do Pennzoil Ultra... any other recommendations? also what weight are most sticking with?

Damn OIL... Just found this on Mobils site too..

Question:
Which Motor Oil Is Best for Engines Using E85 Fuel
I am using E85 fuel in a converted Honda engine originally not designed for its use. One of the primary concerns of this is the formic acid created in the event of water contamination of the fuel. I have always used Mobil 1 5W-20, but am wondering if Mobil Clean or Extended Performance would be a better choice for me. What Mobil oil has the greatest amount of acid neutralizers in it?
-- Andrew Champion, Frisco, CO
Answer:
We recommend you use a heavy duty diesel product if you want additional acid neutralizer. We recommend you try Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 as it is based on HD diesel technology, which contains additional over-based detergents for acid neutralization.

[mazdafreak]

^^good info! I def might try that polishing of the spill valve....idk if I missed it, u have a how-to for it?


I was gonna try the vr1, but I'm thinking 10w30 is too thick....especially being only 40 degrees in the morning to around 50 degrees in afternoon still.

[GLORIFIEDBOZO]

So, finally got over the vomiting and shakes from taking myself off ethanol and was just starting to get my life back on track, and then I thought just 4 gallons what could it hurt, I will swap back right away and I did. But that 4 gal put me right back to the point of shakes. I am weak willed what can I say.... I filled up on E. Oh how I missed the high.

Should be done with the first tank this week, will probably give it a few tanks and then pull the pump and see how it looks, so probably end of next week. I pulled it right before going back and it was pristine clean. So we shall see what happens.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

[Enki]

Rename this forum subsection to AA.

[silvapain]

Ethanolics Anonymous, where everyone wants to be the designated driver.

[AzSpeedin]

Hi, I'm Todd and I've been guzzleing this shiz for 8mo and I'm not stopping..thank u

[raptorous_g4]

Originally Posted by mazdafreak ^^good info! I def might try that polishing of the spill valve....idk if I missed it, u have a how-to for it? I was gonna try the vr1, but I'm thinking 10w30 is too thick....especially being only 40 degrees in the morning to around 50 degrees in afternoon still.

I put in a bottle of sea foam in my oil ran for 5 minutes then drained it. Put in Pennzoil Ultra 5-30.. they did not have 10-30 at my Walmart. Price was $27 for a 5 Quart big bottle. Cleaned the SPV and did notice the O ring looked a bit worn.. I am keeping this in mind as my next test may hunt down some alcohol certified O rings and replace. I've got 100 miles on it since I did this yesterday and will post any problems Id say ill have 300 miles on it by Sunday. With the Rotella T6 I would see sticking after around 300 miles or 2 tanks of E85.

I am including pics of the polishing I did to the internals of the SPV. Pretty simple grab a Dremel some polishing compound (mothers mag and aluminum polish works great) and start polishing the highlighted areas in the pics keep polishing until its a mirror or chrome finish reassemble with a few drops of lubricant. I used CLP gun cleaner.

Before I polished mine after so many miles the valve would stick usually first thing in the morning PSI would stay anywhere from 45-70 car would drive hit normal pressure then buck like fuel cut and drop to the lower PSI range this would continue until I pulled the valve and cleaned. After polishing the PSI would drop as before but if I drove the car for a mile or so it would free itself up and not stick for the rest or the day even a day or 2 after so It does help. I'm hoping for positive results from the oil change over. Hope this helps.

[Mizzle]

If polishing helps this much, the makers of the internals should:

a.) Account for polishing in their machine work.
b.) Polish them before we get them, especially for the price paid.

[franz]

Originally Posted by Mizzle If polishing helps this much, the makers of the internals should: a.) Account for polishing in their machine work. b.) Polish them before we get them, especially for the price paid.

I think he is only polishing the spill valve so it would only be applicable to whole pumps not internals.

Sent from the ether.

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by Mizzle If polishing helps this much, the makers of the internals should: a.) Account for polishing in their machine work. b.) Polish them before we get them, especially for the price paid.

He didn't polish the internals. He polished the part of the pump housing the internals sit in, and the spill valve.


Tapadatass

[phate]

What may also be helpful to polish is the tip of the spill valve plunger. The piece which protrudes through the collar.

Many times when I pulled my spill valve apart, there was slight buildup in there and you could feel it dragging. That's the point which I always thought was the problem.

[raptorous_g4]

Originally Posted by silvapain He didn't polish the internals. He polished the part of the pump housing the internals sit in, and the spill valve. Tapadatass

Correct.. DO NOT Polish the actual HPFP internals / piston. You will remove the coating and more than likley lose FP or damage it.

[mazdafreak]

Anyone think I should run the vr1 10w30 or just run the ultra?



And I'm def gonna polish that spv hopefully this week or next week...since I'm switching to full 85 next week.

[Mizzle]

Originally Posted by mazdafreak Anyone think I should run the vr1 10w30 or just run the ultra?

Do one, UOA.
Do the other, UOA.

[mazdafreak]

Originally Posted by Mizzle Do one, UOA. Do the other, UOA.

Yeah I was, I think its still a lil too cold for the 10w30 here.

[SpeedSixxx]

Originally Posted by mazdafreak Anyone think I should run the vr1 10w30 or just run the ultra? And I'm def gonna polish that spv hopefully this week or next week...since I'm switching to full 85 next week.

try the sapphire blue VR1...

it costs near the same as the ultra and it's not as easy to get.

Ive used both and honestly they both felt great and looked good after 3000 miles...

I like the VR1 because it's valvoline and they my fav..

DO NOT mix Valvoline VR1 with ANY other oil...

I did my research on VR1, called the tech support on the back and asked questions...

as most other oils conventional and synthetic you shouldn't mix different brands but when it comes to oils such as Ultra and VR1 it's a MUST NOT...

VR1 Racing Oil (VR1)

The #1 selling racing motor oil. High zinc provides race-level protection for any vehicle.

High zinc/phosphorus provides extreme wear protection, including flat tappet applications
Additional friction modfiers to help deliver maximum horsepower
Enhanced anti-foam system protects engine during extreme stress
Compatible with gasoline or alcohol fuels
Available through leading auto parts retailers


Valvoline.com > Products > Racing > Racing Motor Oil Racing > VR1 Racing Oil (VR1)

[mazdafreak]

@SpeedSixxx thanks for the good info! I have heard great things about vr1! But my only concern is that its still ~50-60 degrees here and there...haven't rly had the best weather yet.

You still think ill be good with 10w30? Pretty thick oil for not that warm off weather yet.

[Roddiy]

So thats what it comes down to? The Oil?

@Enki, do you have any plans to re-do your test with another oil instead of T6?
Penzoil Ultra seems to be a good candidate from what I gathered.

[Enki]

I certainly can.

[Roddiy]

I think your method is a very valid way of getting a quick answer as to what oils cause the black death.

Also, where did you get that plate from? @jbarone?

[SpeedSixxx]

Originally Posted by mazdafreak @SpeedSixxx thanks for the good info! I have heard great things about vr1! But my only concern is that its still ~50-60 degrees here and there...haven't rly had the best weather yet. You still think ill be good with 10w30? Pretty thick oil for not that warm off weather yet.

is that the only weight they have?

if not 60 degrees really isn't so bad...

how many miles on your engine? I wouldn't be so worried if you have a good amount of mile son the motor as the clearances aren't what they once were...

Not to mention the new recommended oil weight by Mazda is 5w40....10w30 i've used before and I never had an issue.. just let it warm up a bit and don't get on it for the first 10-15 min of driving..

good luck!

anyone recommend an oil testing lab I can send my oil to?
I use different brands of oil every few oil changes just cause...

I'd love to test the differences after 3000 miles on each type...

I use.

Valvoline Syn
Ultra
Rotella T6 Syn
Platinum
AMS oil....

what do I send the oil in? a test tube?...lol

[Enki]

Originally Posted by Roddiy I think your method is a very valid way of getting a quick answer as to what oils cause the black death. Also, where did you get that plate from? @jbarone?

The sample plate was from Jet-Hot, the hotplate was from Amazon.

[GLORIFIEDBOZO]

Originally Posted by mazdafreak @SpeedSixxx thanks for the good info! I have heard great things about vr1! But my only concern is that its still ~50-60 degrees here and there...haven't rly had the best weather yet. You still think ill be good with 10w30? Pretty thick oil for not that warm off weather yet.

Shawn it gets into the 40's in the morning here, and no issue's

Originally Posted by SpeedSixxx is that the only weight they have? if not 60 degrees really isn't so bad... how many miles on your engine? I wouldn't be so worried if you have a good amount of mile son the motor as the clearances aren't what they once were... Not to mention the new recommended oil weight by Mazda is 5w40....10w30 i've used before and I never had an issue.. just let it warm up a bit and don't get on it for the first 10-15 min of driving.. good luck! anyone recommend an oil testing lab I can send my oil to? I use different brands of oil every few oil changes just cause... I'd love to test the differences after 3000 miles on each type... I use. Valvoline Syn Ultra Rotella T6 Syn Platinum AMS oil.... what do I send the oil in? a test tube?...lol

VR1 Synthetic comes only in 10w-30 and 20w-50. Mazda recommends 5-30 I believe

Blackstone Labs is where I do mine. They will send you a test kit for free. Just order it well in advance, my first test kit took forever to show up.

[SpeedSixxx]

Originally Posted by GLORIFIEDBOZO Shawn it gets into the 40's in the morning here, and no issue's VR1 Synthetic comes only in 10w-30 and 20w-50. Mazda recommends 5-30 I believe Blackstone Labs is where I do mine. They will send you a test kit for free. Just order it well in advance, my first test kit took forever to show up.

ty...

I must have used the 10w30 then.

worked great.

[mazdafreak]

Originally Posted by SpeedSixxx is that the only weight they have? if not 60 degrees really isn't so bad... how many miles on your engine? I wouldn't be so worried if you have a good amount of mile son the motor as the clearances aren't what they once were... Not to mention the new recommended oil weight by Mazda is 5w40....10w30 i've used before and I never had an issue.. just let it warm up a bit and don't get on it for the first 10-15 min of driving.. good luck! anyone recommend an oil testing lab I can send my oil to? I use different brands of oil every few oil changes just cause... I'd love to test the differences after 3000 miles on each type... I use. Valvoline Syn Ultra Rotella T6 Syn Platinum AMS oil.... what do I send the oil in? a test tube?...lol

Yeah, like jay said, only 20w50 or 10w30......but it looks like my gonna give 10w30 vr1 a try this weekend...then switch to full 85 next week and see what happens! Also need to polish the spv.....and I have 38,5xx miles on my car.

Originally Posted by GLORIFIEDBOZO Shawn it gets into the 40's in the morning here, and no issue's VR1 Synthetic comes only in 10w-30 and 20w-50. Mazda recommends 5-30 I believe Blackstone Labs is where I do mine. They will send you a test kit for free. Just order it well in advance, my first test kit took forever to show up.

Ahh good to kno! It's also 40 degrees here in the a.m....and around 50-60 in the day...ill def be giving vr1 oil a try then!

[GLORIFIEDBOZO]

Originally Posted by mazdafreak Ahh good to kno! It's also 40 degrees here in the a.m....and around 50-60 in the day...ill def be giving vr1 oil a try then!

Damn we get 70-80's in the day, well this week has been a bit chilly

[Roddiy]

80 during the day here, and summer is just getting started lol.