I wonder if altitude also plays a factor a little. I know that @h.h.sk1nny should be at a pretty high altitude. The theory would still be the same, it's just a factor I haven't seen brought into the discussion...and we all know that altitude is a killer of turbos as small as the K04 on this motor.

i live at sea level so i cant say i have much knowledge in that subject matter, just off the top of my head, maybe @PapaSmurf;?

I never messed with larger intakes on my K04.

What exactly is the question?

just an example my 35r is out of steam at 35psi. Where as at sea level I could run close to 40 or more.

We are in the process of finishing up the jig for these. I have a few that will be ready to go this week now that our powdercoater is caught up. If you want an early one, let me know, and we'll PM some special pricing.

Matt

PM sent

@HTP; Will there be a 3 or 3.5" version of this for the people that want to go BNR turbo route?

A full 3.5" would be nice.

@Toymachinespeed;, you too can has beast mode 4" intake.

We're starting to some idling and coasting issues with the larger intake (3.5" and larger). HTP; please do plenty of testing as with intakes this size small airflow values throw things off since the sensor is not picking airflow up as well due to low air velocity.

It must be different from car to car.

My 3.5 has never had any issues, idling or coasting.

Some cars do, some don't. You're also at a low barometric pressure.

This, I've been waiting to pull the trigger on the HTP 3" inlet to replace my 2.5", would love a 3" MAF housing to complete the package.


Tappin

No idling or coasting issues here, my issue is it just gets a little silly on shifts. It almost wants to bog and then it kinda picks back up, almost as if you weren't to rev match between shifts, but just let the clutch out. This could very well be related to the "idle/coast issues" but while physically coasting or idling its fine. It may be i just need to adjust my throttle tables and or driving style since at the same pedal position less air (velocity at least) is being brought in, who knows, it just went on last night so ill play with it.

BTW, thanks for the tips about the idle issue, cleared out everything below .9 and bumped up the idle a tad and its smooth as glass.

do the people with idle/coast issues and 3.5"+ intakes have a honeycomb?

Most cars handle the large intakes just fine but some cars do have issues. We have one here in the shop that we're working to come up with a tuning solution for. This has been the only car that has taken extensive tuning to fix with a large intake. Why there are problems with a select few cars I haven't figured out yet, and that's the reason I've been delaying the release of our large intakes. The first couple of 4" intakes that we send out we are wanting to make sure that they get into the hands of those that are proficient with tuning or are working closely with a tuner, so that if any tuning issues pop up, they can be working on a resolution immediately.

Matt

Raising the idle is an effective way of increasing airflow. :)

For shifting, do the AFRs go very rich? If so, lower the shift clutch in/out tables. Multiply them by 0.5.

Matt, compare the voltage readings at the MAF sensor for the cars that have problems with the ones that don't. Contact me with the info.

i do and it doesnt so shit

My WP had issues pre honeycomb (coasting only), but after I put the honeycomb in and at the same time did the zeroing of the maf tables under .9v, my issues went away. I'm ditching the WP after I get my hands on one of these.

I have had issues with just a 3"....honeycomb has definitely reduced the effects...but I still see trims getting very high when coasting in neutral at speed.

Got mine today! Thanks @HTP; !
Already installed, just need to take some pics and get it on the road for some tweaking!

Updates on this bad boy?

I ordered mine last week I think. They had just gotten material in.

No updates on my end unfortunately. @smoogs12; ?

Uhhhh not much really.

Pretty shitty tuning weather recently, and especially now that I have 24" of snow on the ground.

The only thing that has happened recently was I tripped a crank sensor code. That was rectified using info that ziggo posted (ill post a link once I find the thread.)

The intake is far from just throwing it on and done, but I feel like the people that would buy/need this probably know that going in.

For now though im pretty much out of the game till spring. My tires dont catch in 3rd or 4th and I even spun 5th once lol..


Edit: For anyone that has CPS issues read this post by ziggo. http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ml#post1501533

As a matter of fact...I'll have some release information later this week! Stay tuned. ;-)

Katie

Htp needs to start making more parts for us.

Release information is posted up here! Happy Friday! :-)

Katie

Thanks a lot Katie! I emailed you a pic of it installed! But for the rest here ya go!

Your engine bay gives me wood

@Lex; , do you mean the load based fuel compensation clutch in / out in the shift control tables?
If yes, I have zeroed both of them separately and it does not solve the enrichment problem following throttle lift.
Has anyone successfully played with these tables to prevent the rich condition between shifts?

This discussion is spreading to other threads.

How is the MAF looking after you shift? Are you VTAing the BPV or recirculating?

Lol. yeah sorry. I am spreading the net wide to get some exposure. First rule of marketing lol.
Running recirc.
We can also move this to your big maf cal thread for reference if you want.

@HTP; when my buddy aaron placed his order, Katie informed us that she would be sending us the instructions for the 3" intake since there were none available for the 4". I had installed several of yalls 3" inlet pipes, and 1 3.5" that fit pretty well so i wasnt really worried about it, but i have the feeling yall didnt test fit it :p.

Well, trying to get that 4" intake on a 3071 was nothing short of a nightmare haha, personally i would like to suggest a 90* coupler coming off the turbo, and a straight(ish) intake. I know there are a few people currently running this intake, but as you can see by the pics i've provided, a 90* coupler would make installing this intake 100x easier. Thanks guys.

Edit: im sorry, im not quite sure why it decided to upload upside down -_-

You need to loosen and slide that coolant line a bit off the barb. That will give you more room.

Cut your coolant line and get a hose mender barb and more coolant line (I believe it's 3/4" id). And extend the coolant line so you can fit the tip in there perfectly. I did that with my 3071 install. It's a must

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

ehh i feel thats a band aid, I did think about just taking the coolant line off, however itd be impossible to get that line back on with the intake in place. The reason i suggested a 90* coupler is because on my custom intake i run a 90* off the turbo and can just push my intake right in, easy as pie :).

Its an easier fix than getting new line. HTP did a fine job with this intake IMO. Not everyone has the same turbo setup so fitment will not be the same for everyone.

See thats where i disgree, i'm on my second big turbo with my intake, 3071 and 3576, and my intake has fit just fine. I love HTP products and have run several on my car, which is why i am suggesting this to them, instead of saying "That thing sucks dont buy it."

True, but all ATP drop in turbos, which this intake is obviously designed to work with, have roughly the same frame and sit in the same spot, so they will more than likely be the only turbos running this intake.

Where do they say this was specifically designed to fit ATP turbos?
I am running a 6266 with this intake btw.

They dont, and im not trying to get in a fight here. The only stock location turbos that have a 4" opening that i am aware of are the ATP drop in kits. Anyone running an HTA or Precision turbo that i have seen do not have 4" openings, therefore most people running this intake are probably on ATP drop in kits. The drop in kits consist of 28 - 35 frame turbos, however they all remotely sit in the same place, therefore i disagreed with your comment that everyone runs different turbos and they cant make this intake for everyone. I feel this intake is catered more towards the ATP drop in turbos, and i offered a suggestion, it is completely up to them to take it or leave it.

i see you ninja'd your comment, so let me correct mine a tad, im currently tuning a car running a 6262 but his only has the 3" inlet.

Yes you are correct it will fit it just makes life much easier extending the coolant line. Hell it takes a whopping 2 minutes and about $10 in parts to extend it then it's easier to get that big tip in there vs trying to finagle it in there and fight with it.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

Yeah I have the ported S compressor housing which is the 4" inlet and 2.5" outlet. Realistically any 4" intake will run into issues with fitment with the stock coolant lines. Does your 90 fitting still pinch though?

All parts were purchased from Intercooler Pipe Fabrication - Silicone Intake Systems Auto Parts With the 90* coupler, i can actually fit my hand inside it and shimmy it onto the turbo inlet, and just kind of bump the hoses out of the way. Since the part of the coupler you're actually sticking the intake into is a few inches away, it doesnt distort and will slide right in. This whole process takes me about 5 minutes, maybe 10-15 if you dont remove HTP's small battery tray first.

I designed my intake before HTP announced they would be releasing a 4", but trust me were it available its probably what i would be running right now. However, i'm not willing to go through this process again on my car, when my current intake involves zero modifications to go right on for what would purely be a cosmetic upgrade :/.

I'll admit, the one flaw with a 90* coupler, is it does make slight contact with the EGR housing, so getting the coupler 100% on the turbo inlet is a bit tricky, however its still easier to deal with than that damn coolant hose. Not trying to sound like im blaming HTP, its obviously not their fault that hose is there, again, just suggesting another way around it.

Our first 4" prototype used a 90* coupler off the turbo, but I didn't like that tight of a radius and I had worries of it not being able to support the intake. That coolant line is a pain in the ass even with the 3.5". A Gates 28604 and a few inches of 5/8" hose will give the proper clearance. We will make notes to include this in our instructions.

Matt

A direct elbow off the turbo also hits the EGR, and will probably wear a hole eventually. If you're going to run an elbow off the turbo, it's a good idea to delete the entire EGR to make some room for it. SSP (kozmic) makes a delete kit that does just that. You can see it in this pic just to the left of my finger:

http://i359.photobucket.com/albums/o...89733B707F.jpg

I think HTP's approach on the intake is about as good as it gets from a reliability and manufacture-ability perspective. God knows fitting these big intakes is definitely not easy.

You can see in the first pic i posted a few posts up mine is VERY close, but i will keep an eye on holes. I didnt mean to sound like i was bashing HTP for releasing a half ass product, just figured i'd offer a suggestion, but i'm sure theres things they have considered i haven't.

Haha, and i hope i didn't come off as bashing you... just posted real quire while at work.

I toyed around with the idea of making an intake for a while, and was going to do exactly what you had just suggested... an elbow right off the turbo. But after realizing that required a significant hassle with the hard coolant line, and then an EGR delete.... it just became obvious that it would never be the elegant approach i had hoped.

It's like selling someone a pair of shoes, but then telling them they'll have to curl their toes when they put them on, and that they can only wear a certain pair of socks with them. What a pita hahaha.

You didnt, i just know my post was met with some initial hostility (which seems to have sorted itself out).

Why not have a very long elegant list of options, or was doing it once for the PCV / OCC thread enough haha

Precisely... hahaha.

Had a chance to actually start tuning on the car yesterday and it runs beautifully, so @HTP; dont change a damn thing!

Just ordered my 4" HTP intake with battery tray today! Should compliment my new full-race exhaust mani and pnp intake mani and the turbo!

Been running 3" htp for quite some time now. Getting ready to start tuning/logs for 11s again lol. I just purchased a 4" htp setup, biggest amsoil filter i can get my hands on. This will be done on a stock k04 and I will post up logs and what not.

Sorry for the grainy ass cellphone shot (I can get a better one if anyone cares), but here is my 4" intake with my stock sized battery. Didn't think it was going to fit, but I managed to get it in there. An EGR delete is a must now.

Welp, got the 4" intake and 51r battery installed. I was able to jam a 9.5" long amsoil filter on the end of it too. It literally is 1/4" fronm hitting the back of my headlight lol. On for tuning it on the stock turbo. Multiplied my maf scaling by 1.33 across the board. Car starts, dies, starts, dies...etc, gave it some gas and got it to finally idle. After a minute it idled fine. I will need to do some further tuning on it. Idle afr's are high @ 16.5ish. Seems like I need to key on-car off measure maf volts, and zero everything out at that figure and below on maf cal. I hope I get it figured out and don't have hard cold starts everytime. Oh and so far I'm not saying I'm gaining power over a 3" but it seems like it lost some low end and gained it back on mid to top end. I'll get some pix and more tuning figures up soon.

Just did zero'd out my maf below .70v as per ignition on-car off. Still having rough starts. @HTP; Were you guys ever able to successfully tune a k04 with the 4" setup? I'm going to try to figure it out before I give up and put the 3" back in lol. Still gonna try a couple of things.

I would think that no matter what turbo is behind the intake idle should be the same across the board, not like one draws more air in over the other. Have you tried zeroing up to .90? Mine sits at about .95v on startup.

Yeah, I just zero'd it up to .90v and still the same issue. Ignition on car off it sits at .70v and car idling it sits at 1.00v. Rpms are set at 850. Also at idle it pulls 3g/s. AFR is still high at idle and crusing. Have not even tried WOT. Was thinking I had to have a leak or something, but all is good.
@Lex; :) Any thoughts

Increase idle to 1000.

Hot damn!!!! Bumped it to 1000 and boom. Idles smoother than it ever has and sitting right at 14.7. That was going to be my next thing to do lol. Beat me to it. Well, I will get this thing dialed in and do some pulls. 3" setup was pulling 310g/s tops, lets see if I gain any.

I had to do the same thing with my idle. Shit was bouncy when I would come to a stop, took the idle up to 900 and she runs great now.

if your trims are proper, you shouldn't see the crank error, i have a 3.5'' maf no straightener never had that code.....

4'' with air straightener should be fine..

I never saw the crank sensor error. Just a lean idle and random misfire.

A couple of things that may help..

Log idle for 30 seconds with all accessories off, then all accessories on for an additional 30 seconds.

That should give you values with load on the car from the lights, rear defog, and cover all of the maf g/s in the first breakpoint.

If you have your idle set to 900 - 1000, there is a good chance that you are crossing breakpoints @ idle and may want to set up your breakpoints so that the first breakpoint includes g/s for idle only.

it most certainly can! some smart mother fuckers on here figured it out.

so if you ever get the crank error, and your car still runs, look at your fuel trims,

somehow they are directly linked, don't remember how and don't rilly care...

there are many people that battled this, i however didn't, i got lucky.

@DougEfresh; not so lucky lol

That was Ziggo who realized that when multiplying an maf curve, you could potentially populate cells in a voltage @ which your car sees no incoming air.